So I can barely get the car to start and when I do I have to hold the throttle at about 25% to keep it running (very rough running). I tried to play with the CAS to maybe adjust the timing some, that seems to help only slightly (seems I have to have it set just right to get it to start). I backed the BISS out almost all the way... also helps a little. Even after all this the car still won't idle well (I killed the battery twice already trying to restart it over and over).

So, some relavent issues that I think would relate to this poor idle, or lack-there-of:
1. I'm running a COP setup and haven't been able to set base timing (not that I could get the car to idle for long enough to do it anyway)
2. I'm using some PTE 1000cc Injectors. I have my ecu set up to run 940cc injectors; I read on a couple sites that this is the true rating for the PTE 1000cc injectors. I added 450 uS to the deadtime; I'm not sure what this should be set for. I've seen some people say 330-360 (since the 880s run at that), but I've also seen 450 uS called out on some websites. I may try to swap in some 880s and change my ECU settings to see if that helps any.
3. I have NGK BPR8ES spark plugs installed. I decided to yank the COP and swap in a coil-pack I have laying around. Once I got the COP out I went ahead and pulled the spark plugs and they are super-black (fouled). They smell pretty aweful as well. I'm not sure if I'm running super rich, or if this was caused by me going 100% throttle while trying to get the car and keep the car idling. I have an extra set of plugs, but I don't want to put them in if I'm just going to foul them up, too (I was just going to take some sandpaper to the electrodes and try to clean them up a bit. I'm also thinking maybe I should go grab some BPR7ES plugs instead.
4. I'm running a 482 MAF, this sensor was sitting in the car when I had the engine fire, I was thinking it would probably still be okay since it was away from the main heat source, but I may swap in a 1G MAF and change my code back to rule that out, too.

So right now I'm thinking my way forward will be to swap in a new set of injectors (maybe even borrow some 440s from someone), 1G MAF, a stock coil-pack, and standard chip.

Any other thoughts?

I'm assuming you're running dsmlink? The global for those injectors should be -51% and deadtime 450 which you have right. When I had a COP setup on my galant I could set the timing just like I did when I had spark plug wires.
I would go with some bpr7es plugs or even the stock bpr6es until you figure this thing out. Is the tps set right? Did you ground the timing when you set the biss screw?

Quoting iLLeffeKt vr-4:

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I'm assuming you're running dsmlink? The global for those injectors should be -51% and deadtime 450 which you have right. When I had a COP setup on my galant I could set the timing just like I did when I had spark plug wires.
I would go with some bpr7es plugs or even the stock bpr6es until you figure this thing out. Is the tps set right? Did you ground the timing when you set the biss screw?

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No DSM Link, I'm just editing the bin file for my EPROM. My timing light won't work with my COP, I tried to use it the one time I was able to get the car to idle. I have a feeling the issue is with these injectors.

Also, I have a '90 N/T throttle body installed. I noticed on the TMO logger that when the throttle is fully closed the closed switch says "off", but shows "on" when the throttle plate is open. This seems reversed to me.

I did not ground timing when I set my BISS since I just adjusted the screw with the engine off. I can't get the car to idle long enough to make any adjustments.

I have the Hz count cut in half, but if I remember correctly I was seeing values around 40-50hz which would put me at 80-100hz (actual), I'll double check the log when I get home.

...255lph Walbro fuel pump with an Aeromotive FPR. I tried to set the base fuel pressure at 37psi, but this was with the engine off and just the fuel pump running (I figured it would get me in the ballpark until I could warm up the engine to adjust it properly). I haven't had a chance to see what the number is while the car is running with the vacuum port out. I may try to adjust the ECU settings before swapping out injectors, since that's easier to do.

I'll let you guys know what happens from here.

I finally got around to converting my logs.
Here's one where I had to keep the throttle over 10% just to keep the car running:




The Low Fuel Trim is not graphed, but it was at 140%. Mid and High were at 100%.

Also note that my MAF Hz is only being logged at 1/2 the actual value, so 100Hz chart value is actually 200Hz.

So what can you make of this log?

Woops... I was using the wrong Hex value for my injectors. For some reason I was basing my calcs off 450cc instead of 440cc. Maybe that will help with that low fuel trim.

It's been sitting for a while, I just couldn't figure out what to do with 8 gallons of 93 octane. If I can at least get it running well enough to get to the gas station and top off with some good fuel that will help me out a bit, too. I'm going to swap out all the thermostat housing bits (sensors, t-stat and double check the wiring... who's idea was it to run two yellow wires with green strip and two green wires with black strips to the same general area?).

I took the day off to work on this thing. So, off to the autoparts store I go.

Getting closer. I replaced the gauge output sensor and ECU output sensor on the thermostat. I was seeing water temps of about 192 after I let the car idle for about 5 minutes with the timing lead grounded. Base timing has been set to about 5-7*. I swapped out my exhaust with the one that was 2 resonator pipes in line and replaced one of the gaskets, so no more exhaust leaks. I bled the brakes and finally got the car down on all 4 wheels.

I'm still having trouble to idle, but there are 2 more things I need to try to hopefully fix the problem. One is get to a gas station and get some good gas in the car. The second, and I think more importantly at this time is to figure out why I'm getting a Code 31 detonation sensor check engine code. I have a feeling it's because I had to splice in a new connector, because the originaly one on the harness was cracked. Anyway, I just found a non-melted connector from another harness that was similar and soldered it on there. Would this probably be why I'm getting the code? I guess the original wiring is shielded somehow, and since I spliced in this other connector and wiring I'm not fully shielded along the lenth of the wire? I thought it wouldn't matter, since the wire isn't shielded right at the connector anyway, but maybe I'm wrong, or I screwed something up if one of those wires really is a coax. Another thing, the knock sensor wires are black and red, I keep reading that they should be black and white. Maybe I have the wrong knock sensor?

Argh, wrote up a bunch of stuff, but apparently I never hit add reply.

Code 31 is gone. I reset the ECU.
Python 880 injectors compensating for 840cc via ECU and 312 uS deadtime
Removed the Octane reset from my chip
Extended Maps
482 MAF

I double checked the mechanical timing marks. They appear to be close... the exhaust looks like it could be off (not quite 12 o'clock when at TDC). So I just retarded the cam about 2* using the adjustable gears. I don't really see how they could have been off though since I used the jay racing timing belt tools.

Anyway, I STILL can't get the car to idle at all. I'll check the plugs tomorrow. They are probably fouled up again.
I don't know what there is left to try.

I decreased dead time to about 216uS trying it out in 24uS increments from 330 down... the sweet spot seemed to be around 240-264. It helped a bit, but the car will still only idle when I lock the timing by grounding the timing lead. I drove it to the gas station and back. I thought I was going to die because I'd lose power brakes and power steering each time it stalled, and of course I hit every light between here and the gas station. Anyway, I've given up on trying to get it running for the Factory MOD event and will use my leave to go visit friends instead. I'll try to get another log in to view my low level fuel trim (should tell me if I need more or less deadtime), probably order some new injectors, find a new MAF, get a new Keydiver chip.

Time to garage this baby. Looks mean in black and white though.

If that's the case, I'd think you could unplug the booster house and plug up the port on the intake manifold, at least to get the car running right.

Yes, as I recall, in the hose and easy to spot.

I didn't get around to checking it out. I'll stop by Autozone on the way home from work today and pick up a universal check valve and see if that at least fixes the idle issue. I tried to get the car to warm up to operating temp so I could get the low fuel trim to move around and tell me if I have a good deadtime set for my injectors, but then I noticed a strange squeeking sound from the belt area, so I'm going to have to pull my timing cover to see if I can pinpoint it. I've also developed a misfire on the number one cylinder. I noticed it when I started playing with deadtimes with the 880cc injectors. I could hear it on the 1000cc injectors for a little bit, but it would eventually go away. I'm starting to wonder if the head I put on is any good or if it's an issue with the injectors or spark plugs are getting fouled up again. So, a compression check might be in order as well.

I'm so close now, but I'm starting to lose interest in this car again.