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Driveshaft yoke replacement

I am having a helluva time getting those caps out of the yoke. I looked up a recent thread about how to remove them and used an air chisel to break both sides free. Now they are not wanting to come further at all. I have read the vfaq over several times and attempted the socket method twice without success. I have sprayed a LOT of PB blaster on and around the caps.

Any other ideas? I'm ready to roll this car down my hill into the lake. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
 

belize1334

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2003
Messages
3,316
Location
Bozeman, MT
You're talking about the U-joints? I had to have mine pressed. Napa can do it. Make sure that you have new u-joints first though because the pintle bearings can get f*ed in the process and then you won't be able to reassemble unless you have a new piece. Napa will tell you that they stock them but then when it comes time to fetch them from the back ... oops ... guess they don't carry them after all.
 

I'm guessing that they are called U Joints. I got the yoke replacement kit from Mach V and am performing the recall service myself. It is being a pain in the neck.
 

CP

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2004
Messages
8,938
Location
West Simsbury, CT
You're doing it right from the sound of it. Get the circlips out if you haven't already. I get one end started and then pry it out with a small screw driver. They break most of the time. Then use the vfaq with the larger socket placed beneath the yoke.
 

I got the clips out already. I have reviewed the vfaq and guess i am just not getting it. I will try a ball joint fork. Im not having success with the socket method.
 

CP

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2004
Messages
8,938
Location
West Simsbury, CT
Ball joint fork...WTF? You need to pound on one of the plugs to get the opposite one out.
 

Was thinking it would pop one out. I don't know.... Ugh. Okay I will try popping one out.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
I used the large "C" clamp and socket method.
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
This job can take an hour all the way up to days, so patience and keeping things from getting burred up will pay great dividends in the time required and the quality of the final job.

Once the u-joint removal proccess goes wrong, it can really get ugly. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

They key is to have no burrs impeeding the cup from sliding out of the yoke/driveshaft holes.

If there's a burr/gouge in the hole, the cup will cock sideways and dig in. The cups are harder then the hinges of hell, and will gouge the ever livin dog sh*t out of the soft yoke/driveshaft material, if given the chance. This can lead to bending/spreading the ears out, and then nothing will save the part, and you will have to replace it.

This means that at the beginning, be carefull when pulling the clips.

I like to take a small pin punch, and drive the clip ends into the center of the cup. You can then grab a hold of them with vise grips and peel them out of the grooves.

Then, it's just a proccess of pushing the cups out squarely, using a c-clamp style tool or a vice and sockets.

Be sure to remove all the burrs from the holes with a round needle file before trying to push the new caps in. If you don't you will have all kinds of issues trying to get the cups in the right spot, and the new clips in. Pay close attention to the ring grooves, as they have to be perfect in order for the clips to seat squarely.

Pay close attention to how the clips seat. It's quite possible to have them "appear" to be seated, and then have them pop partially out in service. This leads to the cups moving under load, and, eventually, a broken driveshaft.

The factory originally used a different style of clip when they built the drivesgaft then comes in the service kit, and so a comparison to the old clips won't tell you anything.

I usually just put a new clip in the groove (without a cup installed) to get an idea of where they should sit, and how much clearance there is from the end of one tip to the other. Match that gap, and the clip is seated all the way.

Then, as you push from the other side, the clip will seat securely/squarely against the cup, and you can dial the preload in exactly using the extra selective thickness clips that come in the service kit.

A little time swapping the shims around (in matched pairs) getting the preload/clearances perfect now will ensure a repair that will last the life of the car, and have minimal balance issues.

If you have any additional questions about this job, pm me your phone number, and I'll walk you through it.
 

381gvr4

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Messages
568
Location
Wakefield, RI/Meriden, CT
Go to Sears and buy a MAP gas torch. Get that b*tch nice and hot. Then use the clamp/socket technique, with your bar-b-qing gloves on, ofcoarse!!!!

EDIT: Take yoke out of t-case or seal will be toast!
 
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