No idle and stall needs help

Hi everybody, I'm a new number at this forum, and need help on my 1g vr4 that I've owned for 18 yrs. The problem that I encountered was that during one chill morning I was on my way to work and drove on the local streets at 40 mph before I reached the freeway on-ramp... everything was fine up until I tried to speed up, but my car wouldn't let me and instead it felt like it was going to stall, so I drove back home with the same speeds and changed cars for work.
I tried to start my car when I got back from work, and the motor started with no problem but it would stall when the key returned to the on position. I ended up having to tow the car to a garage in hopes that they could fix the problem. A couple days later, the technician called me and said the Mass airflow sensor was bad because the car can start and idle (1500~2000 rpm) with the connector unplug but would stall right away when it's reconnected with the plug. So I purchased a used one but the same thing happened, and the technician said maybe the ecu was bad, so I bought one from a '91 Eclipse but still got the same result. If anyone has any suggestions or ideas please let me know!!! Thank you!

 

Any error codes? Have you checked all the intercooler pipes for a huge leak? I would suppose you don't have a logger. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

Thanks for the reply. I will drive the car home tomorrow without the MAF plug in and try to find out and check all the sensors myself then check the code with my palm. My car has already been at the garage for about a month,I feel that those technicians don't like/want to spend time working on my car.

 

I used palm PocketLogger to check code , I start the motor with MAF plug in have no error codes.I will check the intercooler pipes later on this week.

 

[toybreaker]

Is it possible you got a bunk replacement ecu? Many times they are sold without the caps replaced, or there is damage from previous leakage.

Might be worth your time to open the case and shoot a pic. Jeff, Steve, and Terry all know these ecu's really well, and can probably spot any difficulties from a pic.

You can log the airflow parameters, and watch for anomolies.

The iat should match the coolant temp first thing in the morning (before the car is started)

The baro should be ~ 1atm, as you're close to sea level (?), and shouldn't change when you light the car up.

The airflow frequency in hertz should be ~100 at cold start, ( at fast idle), and should settle down to ~44-50 hz at a warm idle of around 850rpm.


edit Has the car had a tune up recently?

I see that you're not completely satisifed with the work the shop is doing...

I've been seeing some issues with techs putting in the bpr6es-11, at too large a gap, and it could possibly cause this type of problem... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif (these cars take the bpr6, not the extended gap -11's

And I just saw a brand new (never ever worked /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif ) fuel filter that was junk right out of the box. (couldn't even blow thru the silly thing!)

Might be worth double checking their work.

Most owners (with a little help and guidance from the board) can do a better job troubleshooting than many so called "professionals". /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Good luck, and hope you get it sorted soon.

 

Hi all you guys, I'm very pleased with all your info and advice for everything related to my car. I drove my car back home yesterday back from the car shop and after work today, I jacked up my car and I found a plug that was missing at the rubber hose (see the Picture). I put that house on after I modified the turbo intake several years ago.I temporary sealed the hose and started it up, thanks all you guys, my car can start up having no problem. By the way the ECU I already replaced some leaked caps and one IC that for idle control couple years ago.

Thank you very much all you guys.