I am switching from the FTS FPR and I dont want to run a full -6 all the way to the tank, so I am trying to figure out what size the an line needs to be.
THanks
THanks
The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.
- Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.
turbowop
Well-known member
I use -6 from the AFPR and just use hoseclamps to connect it to the stock return pipe.
Rausch
Well-known member
^ +1....Exactly what I did as well.
atc250r
Staff member
+2 and 30K miles later its still working fine.
gtluke
Well-known member
the return line isn't under pressure so you can use regular fuel hose. -6 = 6/16 or 3/8"
very common size. get fuel injection hose if you want to be on the safe side, its rated for higher pressure and is thicker and stronger.
an easy way to do it is to use a pushlock fitting on the FPR and push the hose over the fitting on that side, and hose clamp it onto the stock return.
very common size. get fuel injection hose if you want to be on the safe side, its rated for higher pressure and is thicker and stronger.
an easy way to do it is to use a pushlock fitting on the FPR and push the hose over the fitting on that side, and hose clamp it onto the stock return.
Rausch
Well-known member
I just happened to have some extra braided line left over from the runs. I'mm sure the rest did as well. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
+1 there is no real pressure to speak of, so anything that can handle fuels/gas will do.
+1 there is no real pressure to speak of, so anything that can handle fuels/gas will do.
CarRacer
Well-known member
I clamped it as well. I'm going to try to locate one of those ricer clamp covers for aesthetics.
turbowop
Well-known member
I used pushlock type hose for that line. That way I don't have the frayed stainless braiding on the end with the clamp.
atc250r
Staff member
If you wrap the clamped end nicely with electrical tape (which you'll have to do to cut it anyway) and then put the clamp on over that tape it'll stay nice and won't fray. Mine's been that way for nearly 5 years now.
John
John
slugsgomoo
Well-known member
you can get one of these bad boys right here from summit and you won't have fraying, sharp ends, and you can keep that mad pimp look. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
turbowop
Well-known member
sh*t! I'm missing some bling! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif
I guess I just didn't see the need to have a stainless braided return line. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
I guess I just didn't see the need to have a stainless braided return line. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
CarRacer
Well-known member
I used a stainless return line because I had a leftover length.
As for cutting the line, I use a chisel, sledge, and aluminum plate. There's no fraying when you remove the tape because you don't need any. The chisel also presses the wire into the rubber further preventing fraying. The aluminum plate doesn't dull the chisel when you bash it down with the hammer. It cuts straight and works well. No melted inner hose or debris from cutting.
As for cutting the line, I use a chisel, sledge, and aluminum plate. There's no fraying when you remove the tape because you don't need any. The chisel also presses the wire into the rubber further preventing fraying. The aluminum plate doesn't dull the chisel when you bash it down with the hammer. It cuts straight and works well. No melted inner hose or debris from cutting.
GVR4_1057
Well-known member
^ +1 on the chisel method. Is it the best by far. And nobody expects it.
