The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

O-Ringed block question.

AWDnot2

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2003
Messages
2,524
Location
Wheeling WV
Do you buy the o-rings or make your own? If you make your own, where do you get the copper wire? And what size, .040?
 
Last edited:

Rausch

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 21, 2004
Messages
12,049
Location
Cleveland, OH
If you're gonna ring the block (or it's already been done) I would suggest SS O-rings, if for no other reason than you can reuse them, as opposed to copper that are pretty much one time use only.
 

I run a .040 ss o-ring in my block. I made my own. Making them was fairly easy, getting them to seat in the block properly wasn't as fun. If you strike out and can't find the wire you need I'll send you some.
 

14bCrazy

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 25, 2003
Messages
5,707
Location
Virginia
Did you mchine the block yourself? The ones Ive seen had grooves in the block for the wire to sit.
 

AWDnot2

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2003
Messages
2,524
Location
Wheeling WV
The block was already machined. I'm just getting everything together to assemble.
 

My machine shop did the work as well. I would not recommend trying it yourself unless you've got the tooling and experience to do so. It wouldn't be the end of the world if you mess it up though.
 

to answer your question,the copper wire they use is just solid core copper wire that you would use to wire up electronics. just strip off the insulation and you will be as good as you can. i agree with everyone else though with the ss wire. pm me if you can't find any copper wire, i think i have some laying around.
 

JNR

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 23, 2004
Messages
9,814
Location
ca
Makes sense. I guess the compression between the head/block causes it to be 'forced together', eliminating a seam.
 

the bad thing is, is that it would protrude out of the block .020 and thats just to much. when you clamp the head down you start to make the head flex to much and sometimes it even makes the cams lock up. what we do for 55-60+psi is run a ss oring that we press in at 25 tons into the block and then we shave the orings down until they protrude about .007-.008 and that seems to work the best for us. that gives us a nice flat surface to clamp onto and then we run a mls mitsu gasket sprayed down with copper coat.
 

Terry Posten

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
^^^^Yeah baby, Class One all the way.^^^^
 

OldHairyBastard

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2005
Messages
4,510
Location
Northern Chicagoland Area
^^^I second that but used the HKS head gasket. It is a lot more money but I didn't feel like poping a Mitsu MLS when I hit up the big boost.
 

BadVr4

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 30, 2004
Messages
678
Location
manchester, ct
and why would you pop a mitsu gasket? they hold 50+ psi. only thing that would cause you to pop it is a bad tune
 
Last edited:

Well I can show you a car with a perfect tune on 35psi that popped an MLS with copper o-ringed block. The problem isn't the tune necessarily, its when you're cylinder pressures escalate from 500ft/lbs of torque that cause headbolts to stretch, even ARPs.
 

thats why i never recommend copper o-rings, i have seen nothing but problems with them.
 

BadVr4

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 30, 2004
Messages
678
Location
manchester, ct
i've seen more problems with stainless o-rings than copper. the stainless doesn't make as good of a seal as copper, although copper cannot be re used. i have also seen cars run 50+ psi, 700+whp with no o-ring at all, so that is a bunch of b.s as well.
 

At what power/boost levels do people feel necessary to O-ring the block? Seems anyone making 400-600hp who blows a headgasket automatically assumes they need an 0-ringed block when cars who have made over 40psi/700hp with regular arp's(non l19) and oem mitsu mls head gasket with non O-ringed block have had no problems...

O-ringing the block just seems like the latest fad and a lot of times a band aid to the real situation. I would think if you are popping head gaskets under 500-550whp with arp/oem mls then the problem is either in the mating surfaces/machining, assembly or tune.

0.02

I would shy away from copper O-rings as already suggested previously.
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Top