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Heavy Clutch/PP shifting issues - fix.

Terry Posten

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
I started this process with a Clutchnet 2X PP with a 6 puck sprung disc and the clutch worked fine



My new setup requires a little more so I installed a Clutchnet 3X pressure plate and a 6 puck sprung disc and wouldn't you know it, it wont go into gear. I think this is close to 2600psi.

I have a new master and slave and it still did not work.

I adjusted the pedal rod all the way out (so that the rod pushes into the master farther) and I just barely was able to shift. The clutch engaged right off the floor.

I then unscrewed that rod (the rod was sloppy and the pedal was super loose) so that the master was fully retracted and then screwed the rod back out to the max (pedal really stiff at the top). I then pumped the clutch pedal to the floor twice and repeated the same unscrew/screw 1 more time.

The clutch is now working great.

I think what happens is that when you screw the rod all the way out, the master can't retract all the way back so that the "auto-adjusting" feature of the master could not "reset" itself.

I basisly pumped the master by hand until the slave was fully extended against the fork and then the stock parts (slave rod included) was just fine and now I have a 3XPP working great using all stock (albeit new) parts.


I hope this helps some of you.
 
Last edited:

CP

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Joined
Aug 30, 2004
Messages
8,938
Location
West Simsbury, CT
Out...in? Can you insert "towards the driver; away from the driver" so that this is easier to understand?
 

Luke

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2002
Messages
752
Location
San Jose, CA
Glad to hear this method also worked for you as it had for me.

Basically, when people feel their clutch is not disengaging, they would continue backing out the master cylinder rod adjustment.

What's non-intuitive is that it is possible to adjust this rod too far, that it would cause even more difficulty in disengaging the clutch. This is because the clutch master cylinder has a self-adjustment mechanism that will get defeated when the rod is adjusted out too far.

So, the solution is to not adjust the rod too far out..
 

CP

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Joined
Aug 30, 2004
Messages
8,938
Location
West Simsbury, CT
...as in twisting the rod towards the driver too far?
 

jepherz

Staff member
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Messages
7,877
Location
KC, Missouri
I believe he means as in threading the rod out further, so when the clutch pedal is in the up position (not pressed it) the rod isn't pushing into the master at all.
 

atc250r

Staff member
Joined
Sep 11, 2003
Messages
13,235
Location
Orange County, NY
Quote:
I think what happens is that when you screw the rod all the way out, the master can't retract all the way back so that the "auto-adjusting" feature of the master could not "reset" itself.



IIRC, one of the trans shops mentions that in their write up on adjusting the clutch. I think it was TRE.

John
 

Terry Posten

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
Quote:
Out...in? Can you insert "towards the driver; away from the driver" so that this is easier to understand?



I tried to make it more understandable.
 
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