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Brake Fabrication experts!

cheekychimp

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Joined
Apr 19, 2004
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7,333
Location
East Sussex, U.K.
Okay we have discussed the 'theory' of this before, now I need to think about the actual fabrication of it.

Rear brake calipers were replaced with 4-pot AP units and brackets mated to a 340mm (I think!) rear rotor with a 28mm thickness!

So we lost the rear emergency brake. We discussed setups to use the 4-pots as the e-brake but it was suggested it was much safer to have separate calipers for the e-brake.

So, how? There's clearly no room for a bracket where the original calipers bolted on so I'm guessing something needs welding onto the rear arms at the bottom of the rotor. Any ideas on how to go about this?
 

Barnes

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Joined
Feb 9, 2003
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6,249
Location
Richland, WA
Do do you want an emergency brake? Or a parking brake? Just curious because you might be able to avoid the extra caliper with another option.
 

Rausch

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Dec 21, 2004
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12,049
Location
Cleveland, OH
i believe that was part of the plan. but i think he wants something seperate from the 'regular' brakes....
 

Bust out a welder, and you'll have to go hydrolic cause the stock location is the best for a brake cable.
 

cheekychimp

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Apr 19, 2004
Messages
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East Sussex, U.K.
Okay, yes sorry.

The handbrake assembly will be modified to a push rather than pull to operate a hydraulic master. Ad I will need the extra caliper(s) so a line lock is out of the question.

So, Digit how would you weld this bracket?
 

I was thinking you could take the bracket you already make and extend it and just put the caliper on that but there wouldn't be enough strength I don't think, plus you would want to weld it opposite of where the other caliper is. So they are directly facing each other. Find the caliper you want to use for the e-brake, measure your clearances that you need, make a bracket and depending on what it looks like and where the caliper sits is where you would have to weld it.
 

curtis

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Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
Paul when you weld it on
locate it where you want with the bracket bolted on. Then have an extra master cylinder from the junkyard hooked up with the line. Pressurize the system and weld. Let fully cool and release pressure. done.

As for finding the right one deside /ubbthreads/images//graemlins/dunno.gif


Why don't you just put a y fitting from the hand brake and a one way check valves in line so when the pedal is pushed the valve closes on the hand brake and when the hand brake is pulled the master closes. /ubbthreads/images//graemlins/dunno.gif
 

Ted Andkilde

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Aug 21, 2003
Messages
1,181
Location
Windsor, Canada
Hey Paul

If space is at a premium inside the wheels you could look at a small go-kart sized disk at the driveshaft/rear-diff with a Wilwood mechanical spot caliper.

Cheers, Ted
 

Rausch

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Dec 21, 2004
Messages
12,049
Location
Cleveland, OH
thats a true emergency brake design...old as all hell, hasn't been used in a long time (at least in production, that i can think of) but would work nonetheless...
 

Larry Parker

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Feb 11, 2004
Messages
1,092
Location
Metro detroit
You can do one of two things...

1. Install a line lock in the rear brake line and this could be your parking brake....

2. Install a hydro handbrake with a lock in it... This way you can pull the handle back and insert a pin to lock it out...

I have done the first on my last rally car and it worked well...

LP
 

Ted Andkilde

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Aug 21, 2003
Messages
1,181
Location
Windsor, Canada
Quote:
thats a true emergency brake design...old as all hell, hasn't been used in a long time (at least in production, that i can think of) but would work nonetheless...



I've seen it on a lot of medium duty trucks, except they use a nasty, not easily serviced, drum/cable system.

Cheers,Ted
 

number3

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 26, 2001
Messages
7,623
Location
KoP, PA
anchor.jpg


/ubbthreads/images//graemlins/cool.gif
 

Quote:
You can do one of two things...

1. Install a line lock in the rear brake line and this could be your parking brake....

2. Install a hydro handbrake with a lock in it... This way you can pull the handle back and insert a pin to lock it out...

I have done the first on my last rally car and it worked well...

LP



Only problem with the line lock is when the system is "on" it's locked up. Turn the key off and take it out, and it's "off" so you would have to hard wire it to the battery directly and use a switch in line.
 

Larry Parker

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 11, 2004
Messages
1,092
Location
Metro detroit
My line lock was just a 1/4 turn valve with a -3 an in and out... Step on the brake and turn the valve... bingo...
 

Ah. I thought you were talking about the electric solenoid line lock kits used in drag racing.
 
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