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Anyone using ECMLink to control rad fans?


EfiniX
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217298 posted 09/25/15 02:03 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
With the air cooling off, getting my radiator fans to turn on when they should and not when the temps sensor hits 140F has become a priority.

Has anyone actually wired up a 1g to use the new Link fan control? It looks like you hook EGR-s pin 53 to the fan relay. I'm guessing it's a ground switch. Then set your thresholds in link.

Any gotchas? Experiences? etc?



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marvinmadman
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217299 posted 09/25/15 02:10 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I posted a thread about pin 53. The wire is there but it's not supposed to be according to online pinout diagrams. I have my FPS wire to turn on the Rad fan though. I wanted to use the EGR to kick on the AC fan, just wanted to tap into the magical wire under the hood if I could. No response from my pin 53 thread though. I seen it was used for Cyclone activation on our cars. I've even used that pin on my 91 vr4 for cyclone activation...



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EfiniX
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217302 posted 09/25/15 02:23 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well I figure my first step will be to tap wire 53 and put a multimeter on it to measure for voltage. I know the "Misc" tab in link has a button to activate the EGR pin, so I figure I can just hook up and click that button to check. Nice of them to think of that since it will let you validate the fan control (or whatever else you might try to hook up) without warming up/cooling down the car.

I'm more curious about what pin 53 is actually doing when it's "activated" since this will determine exactly where on the fan relay it gets hooked up.



RIP 543
Ded click
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2011 BMW 335d (~510'lb/tq and 36mpg. hwy. How can you go wrong?)

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CutlassJim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217307 posted 09/25/15 03:28 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Any wire ECU activated is always to ground.



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marvinmadman
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217308 posted 09/25/15 03:35 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
^That was my assumption. But I want to find that pin 53 wire's termination point and hopefully it's under the hood so I don't have to cut and tap then run through the firewall with another wire.



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turbowop
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217309 posted 09/25/15 03:38 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You just run a wire from the ECU pin that ECMlink uses as an output and tap into the ground wire for the fan relay under the hood near the stock battery location. Then set the parameters in 'link to have that output pull the relay to ground at whatever coolant temp you want.



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donniekak
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217328 posted 09/25/15 08:45 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I have two spal fans triggered by the ecu. They are triggered by the egr, and fps, outputs. One comes on at 165, and one at 190. They also both shut off at wot to help keep voltage up for my fuel pump.

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strokin4dr
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217342 posted 09/26/15 12:14 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I ran a jumper wire from the FPS to the green wire on the connector at the coolant temp sensor at the bottom of the radiator.

It's really easy, just unplug the connector from the coolant temp sensor and it will almost reach the FPS wire along the frame rail. My jumper wire is about 4" long. I used a male spade connector at one end and a male pin from a spare coil pack connector on the other. Plugs right in and sealed it with heatshrink. Works perfectly with my ECMlink settings.



Ryan C.
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thomcasey
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236462 posted 04/08/17 02:17 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Bringing back an older thread. I have setup a relay for powering my 14" pusher. Is the idea to use the FPR wire to pull the relay ground and activate it?

Also, how to you configure the settings in link? I see the temp control, but not sure how to configure it and the other settings.



Thom
1991 GVR-4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's)


Edited by thomcasey (04/08/17 02:18 PM)

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Gtpdz
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236465 posted 04/08/17 06:23 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Here is my setup, basically the lower end of the coolant temp is what determine what temp the fan should kick on, you can experiment with this value to see what best suits you, also speed is a determine factor as well, put it under 35 mph and it should be fine. Low RPM should be somewhere lower than idle and more than zero, so the fan won't kick on when engine is off but key is still in. The other parameters just set them from lowest to full (default) range.

Lastly set the state change limit as high as you can to prevent the fan from bouncing between on/off state too quickly.



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thomcasey
I ain't no puny human
1025/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236466 posted 04/08/17 07:17 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
thanks!! Now, am I correct to use the FPR signal for the ground on the relay or doe it go to the switch power for it?



Thom
1991 GVR-4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's)

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Gtpdz
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236468 posted 04/08/17 08:20 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The fpr just gets grounded on the ECU side, it's the top - pin on the FPR T socket. So use it to ground relay only.


Edited by Gtpdz (04/08/17 08:21 PM)

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strokin4dr
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236470 posted 04/09/17 07:45 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That's how I ran mine. I unplugged the harness going to the temp sensor on the radiator, then make a super fancy double male jumper wire. One end plugs into the temp switch harness, the other into the FPS harness. Then I set my parameters in ecmlink similar Gtpdz's settings above. No hacking of wires, and completely reversible if I ever want to put it back to stock configuration.
Good luck!
-Ryan



Ryan C.
1908- sold and missed.
1280- 2.3, FP 35R, E85, etc.
1135- 100% stock - 88k miles
'93 Mirage hatch- 4g63, AWD, etc (hoarding for build)

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Gtpdz
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236471 posted 04/09/17 09:18 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Similar set up, i actually made a male to male and female connector and connect the fpr plug to both the fan control harness and the water temp switch on the t stat housing, so I can use ecu to control fan and the switch still functions as a fail safe.

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strokin4dr
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236473 posted 04/09/17 10:52 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Very nice! Sounds like a good idea. If my car were a daily drive I would definitely do the same.

I have my CEL set to trip at 212, and have a second "rear de-fog switch" wired to switch on the AC fan just in case something fails and I see the dash light or temp gauge going crazy.



Ryan C.
1908- sold and missed.
1280- 2.3, FP 35R, E85, etc.
1135- 100% stock - 88k miles
'93 Mirage hatch- 4g63, AWD, etc (hoarding for build)


Edited by strokin4dr (04/09/17 10:59 AM)

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thomcasey
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1025/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236489 posted 04/10/17 06:32 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Gtpdz:

The fpr just gets grounded on the ECU side, it's the top - pin on the FPR T socket. So use it to ground relay only.




Excellent. My plug is missing, but the solid red wire has switched 5v on it, so I will use the white wire (with maroon dots) to pull the ground on the relay (It does trace to pin 57 on the ECU).

This is good stuff. Something is funky with the factory fan wiring as it has power but would never spin the stock or any other fan when it was supposed to. So I am using a 30amp relay mounted right beside my Hella horn relay where the battery used to live.

Shoot, I might even install an extra 10-12" pusher and set the EGR to run it at a higher temp in case this 14" is insufficient. I have noticed that the stock fan (1600cfm) definitely cooled better than the 14" pusher (1030cfm), but is still cools well. Just might need the extra cooling when stuck in traffic or in line at the shootout.



Thom
1991 GVR-4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's)

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mooserage
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236501 posted 04/10/17 01:23 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting strokin4dr:

That's how I ran mine. I unplugged the harness going to the temp sensor on the radiator, then make a super fancy double male jumper wire. One end plugs into the temp switch harness, the other into the FPS harness. Then I set my parameters in ecmlink similar Gtpdz's settings above. No hacking of wires, and completely reversible if I ever want to put it back to stock configuration.
Good luck!
-Ryan




Any chance of posting a picture, I'm really interested in seeing how you all solved this, but I just can't picture this

Thanks

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Gtpdz
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236509 posted 04/11/17 12:46 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
What kind of picture? The simplest way of configure that is just one wire running from the fan switch plug to the fpr plug, if you can't find them here are some service diagram to help:

Number 4 in this one for the fan switch



And number A-46-2 in this one for fpr solenoid plug



The fpr plug is a 2 pin T shape plug, with a red and a white wire, white one goes to the ECU ground.


Edited by Gtpdz (04/11/17 12:47 AM)

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strokin4dr
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236511 posted 04/11/17 07:45 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I have mine connected to only operate the engine cooling fan. Yours is set up to kick on both fans by grounding the #4 switch on the t-stat housing, correct?



Ryan C.
1908- sold and missed.
1280- 2.3, FP 35R, E85, etc.
1135- 100% stock - 88k miles
'93 Mirage hatch- 4g63, AWD, etc (hoarding for build)

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thomcasey
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236512 posted 04/11/17 09:10 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well, using the settings and connecting the FPR wire to the ground pin on the relay was a fail. Still won't kick on using the FPR wire as a ground. I am thinking I am using the wrong wire (although I believe it pinned out. Where on the engine bay would I expect the FPR solenoid to reside so I can be sure I am finding the correct wire? Ny car came gutted and had to have the harness replaced.

Pin 30 - Battery
Pin 85 - Ground (or Pin 57 from ECU)
Pin 86 - Switched 12v
Pin 87 - Feed to Fan



Thom
1991 GVR-4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's)

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KiNgMaRtY
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236546 posted 04/13/17 10:22 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Since the fan needs power and ground to kick it on, there may be something wrong with your switched 12v. You could just have it be a constant 12v and let the ecu provide the ground from the FPR.



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thomcasey
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1025/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236550 posted 04/13/17 10:57 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
When I ground the ground pin, it works fine with the key switch. But, I can look into making that change as a test. Will first verify I have the right wire though



Thom
1991 GVR-4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's)

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bkrathwohl
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1239023 posted 08/12/17 08:08 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I, too, am trying to get my ECU to control my radiator fan. I've applied Gtpdz's settings but i'm not having any luck. Also, is there a different setting that needs to be configured elsewhere? I am not able to activate the FPS in dsmlink, it is greyed out.

To expand on my setup, i've followed this thread to deal with the radiator fan wiring:
click

Pin 1 and 6 are soldered together (I have no resistor on my aftermarket fan, so the fan is always "high")
Pin 3 and 4 are wired to the + and - connectors on the radiator fan
Pin 2 and 5 are wired to both prongs in the FPS T connector (perhaps this is where i screwed up). Bridging these two kicks the fan on with the key

Oddly, when I shut the car off the radiator fan will turn on for a couple seconds until the solenoid clicks off. That is why I assumed my wiring was correct. Not being able to trigger the FPS in dsmlink isn't helping my troubleshooting.


Edited by bkrathwohl (08/12/17 08:10 PM)

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GSTwithPSI
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1239024 posted 08/12/17 08:24 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
To trigger the relay manually with ECMlink you have to enable the factory settings.

Go to --> ECU config tab --> FPS tab --> check "enable normal (factory) settings"

Then go to the Misc tab and the FPS box should no longer be greyed out. Toggle the button to activate the FPS circuit.

For the wiring, you essentially want fan switch to be grounded through the FPS via the ECU. The hot side of the relay coil goes to 12v+. I use the switched side of the relay coil to control the ground side of the fan, and wire the fan's hot side directly to 12v+.



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Edited by GSTwithPSI (08/12/17 08:29 PM)

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