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KOYO radiator options

G

Staff member
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
8,896
Location
zompton
I was looking up some info on different radiators for different vehicles and their are some viable options for "almost" 100% bolt in. Can probably make spacers for the bottom vr4 mounts or custom brackets up top.

Stock vr4 radiator dimensions:
Width = 26-5/16"
Height = 14-13/16"

Stock 1g dsm radiator dimensions:
W = 26-5/16"
H = 13-7/8"

Option # 1
Koyo 36mm V-core for 1g dsm (stock fitting all aluminum racing)
W = 660mm (26-5/16")
H = 350mm (14")

Option # 2
Koyo 53mm R-core for 2g dsm
W = 682mm (27.28")
H = 350mm (14")

Option # 3
Koyo 53mm R-core for evo 1-3
W = 654mm (26.16")
H = 375mm (15")

Option # 4
Koyo half size racing radiator for evo 8/ 9
W = 342mm (13.68")
H = 375mm (15")

I know a few guys here have played around with some of these options in the past.
 

Street Surgeon

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Joined
Mar 3, 2004
Messages
941
Location
Omaha, Nebraska
I have the Evo 3 installed in my Galant, the specs listed on their website are pretty accurate but don't paint the whole picture.

These are the measurements I took with my mic when I put it in.

OEM Radiator:
End Tank top/bottom: 55mm
Core: 34mm

Koyo Evo III Radiator:
End Tank top/bottom: 61mm
Core: 53mm

The 61mm end tanks on the top and bottom are pretty big and will require a fabricator with a deft touch to get piping to go the stock/ets route for a front mount. Also, as mentioned before it does sit an inch lower than a stocker so you'll either need spacers at the bottom or not mind it sitting a hair lower than stock.
 

SSGdave

Well-known member
Joined
May 31, 2011
Messages
137
Location
San Diego, CA
I have an Evo3 Aftermarket Aluminum Radiator in 1855.

It fits very well, I only needed to shim the bottom mounts using spare piece of silicone hose that was around 1/4 inch tall (can't recall exact measurement). To get the top Galant mounts to "hold" the Radiator correctly.

As far as the OEM fans bolting up, I didn’t use the OEM fans so I don’t now if they mount up correctly. I did a slim puller and pusher set up in the OEM configuration.





 

coyotes

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Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
How do we correlate these radiators into the part numbers found on Ebay?

G, you gave me the part #C0233, but it is no longer available on ebay.
 

FlyingEagle

Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2005
Messages
1,635
Location
THE Ottawa
When I did a search for possible radiators to cross over into the C53A (Turbo Mirage/Colt), I came out finding that the Galant/GVR4 rad was a drop in with two minor differences:
Upper rad hose was pushed over 1-2 inches, and the overflow outlet was aimed directly at the LH headlight versus RH/RH strut area. Minor workaround, but otherwise identical in all respects.

My point above the fact that there are literally next to no rads left in North America (according to 1800Radiator whom I was sourcing through while I stood at their counter) for a C53A or E30/E39A platform) due to low call volume and sadly only one radiator was found in a back corner of a warehouse, from some company like Samsung (or some near derivative), IS that the part number I used was a CU233 (Galant) or CU234/CU235 serperceded for the Colt. Alternative numbers maybe 234/235KO or 233KO.

Here's my comparison thread:
click
It's a bit of a read through, but great info if you are in a pinch for what to use. I did some research on what was available at the click of a button, versus custom built or shipping from way off overseas. I could find parts overseas, but it would double/triple the cost to bring it here.
 
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G

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Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
8,896
Location
zompton
Call koyo and ask them who has that part # in stock. Simple.



Quoting coyotes:
How do we correlate these radiators into the part numbers found on Ebay?

G, you gave me the part #C0233, but it is no longer available on ebay.

 

tektic

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2012
Messages
1,497
Location
ronkonkoma, ny
I have a DSM rad and the top is low like everyone states but the bottom connector is a little too close to the lower cross member for my likeing. It should ideally be angled up some. Just throwing that out there.

Edit: Actually after closer inspection the bottom port should be about 2 inches toward the driver side. to where this nice groove is.

 
Last edited:

coyotes

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Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
G,

I found another one on Ebay. That is a direct replacement or does it need to be shimmed? I am going to buy as soon as I have your answer. Thanks
 

G

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Feb 24, 2004
Messages
8,896
Location
zompton
Direct replacement.
 

Paddy1337

Active member
Joined
Oct 31, 2013
Messages
43
Location
PA/NC
is it all that much more expensive to get a core and have it welded locally? I honestly don't know, because my welding is done on the hook-up, but for a perfect fit to your exact car setup it sounds pretty beneficial.

I will say, I've seen some Koyo's sell pretty darn cheap in general, so maybe it is a lot more money...
 

coyotes

Well-known member
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Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
anyone know where to get the rubber mounts? Mine need replacing and haven't found them in parts stores locally.
 

RayH

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Apr 9, 2001
Messages
2,703
Location
NJ
When I replaced the radiator in my 94 Expo it looked like it could be a real close replacement for the Galant.
 

Street Surgeon

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Joined
Mar 3, 2004
Messages
941
Location
Omaha, Nebraska
Quoting coyotes:
anyone know where to get the rubber mounts? Mine need replacing and haven't found them in parts stores locally.



Mitsubishi, or other online vendors.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
Quoting coyotes:
anyone know where to get the rubber mounts? Mine need replacing and haven't found them in parts stores locally.



Upper or lower? I have a few spare lowers.
 

FlyingEagle

Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2005
Messages
1,635
Location
THE Ottawa
When my lower mounts were separating from there outward portions, I used RTV to seal things back up. GREY. Worked a charm and was likely stronger than the original rubber was.
If nothing else is available, guys have posted about using the rubber bushings from stabilizer/sway bar links. Most have the correct center hole (or close), and can be modded to fit or will slide right into the hole where the original rubber was located. Can always be RTV'd back in. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
 

MuffinMan7580

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Joined
Aug 6, 2011
Messages
142
Location
Fort Bragg, NC
Bringing it back from the dead, but I ordered a Koyo EVO 3 radiator for 570. I'm fine with it being a little shorter than stock, but I am not alright with it not having a bung for the fan switch! I will see if the part number was on the box and post that as well, but if anyone else has the KOYO, will you chime in if yours has a bung for a fan switch or not?

Edit-Apparently their are 2 part numbers R/HH030561. The "R" model is a 53mm core while "HH" is a 48mm core. I'll measure mine and update which is which.
 
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G

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Feb 24, 2004
Messages
8,896
Location
zompton
Buy an inline bung and add it to your lower rad hose.
 

MuffinMan7580

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Joined
Aug 6, 2011
Messages
142
Location
Fort Bragg, NC
For M16x1.5? Almost everything I've found is NPT thread. If I do that, I'd still have to drill and tap it, on top of buying the inline housing.
 
Last edited:
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