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Who makes the best subframe bushings??


turbomcc
Junior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1100425 posted 12/29/12 05:00 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Making the car for the drag strip and was looking for the best bushings on the market......

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LIV4PSI
dyslexic 1051
1501/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1100461 posted 12/29/12 11:09 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
BoostX for the rear, Prothane for the front.



-Craig
1501 Build Thread


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3rdstrikedsm
Now mandatory for Wendy's Chili to come with cheese


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1100463 posted 12/29/12 11:19 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yup +1^^



1994 supra 6spd 612whp and more to come soon!
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EHmotorsports
Capt Fabbin Stabbin
1865/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1100475 posted 12/30/12 01:31 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If you want solid mounts then go to home depot and pick up some big washers. Just sandwich them and weld everything in. I only recomend this if you know how to weld.



click

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tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1100533 posted 12/30/12 03:04 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Is this something you have done? Is this something I could consider on a DD ? I have had ES bushings on my talon and thought they were fine. How much more harsh is the ride?



7 1G DSM's now a GGSX build.

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curtis Galant VR4.org Moderator
Space Blanket from NASA plumbed into the attic
475/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1100544 posted 12/30/12 03:44 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Solid bushings are a pita on the street. I've put aluminum bushings in cars and after a few weeks the steel wears against the aluminum on the od as well as the bolt and creates slop and clunk clunk soon follows. As for welding on thick washers with a solid bushing, it can be done but still violent feeling and fine for a few passes down the track but on the street is the wrong idea. Out of all the subframes me and John checked everyone was a little different spec by a hair so just buying a turned aluminum or polymer bushing well lead to wear. I designed the bushings with John to be first pressed in then when the pin is pressed it it compresses the polyurethane slightly so no wear and being a 90 durometer is hella stiff, controls movement and as far as I know the only complains we've ever had is when people didn't follow instructions and removed the inter steel sleeve that the factory rubber was vulcanized to. I left it there for the guys up north that have rust problems. Figured they needed all the steel they could get. I have my set right now and thats all but I'm sure John (Boostx) has some sleeping in his garage.



92 GVR4 0475/1000
Greenhouse Effect Green
Exceeds Mechanical Limits
"Put the dawg to work.
Ass, Gas or Milkbones. Nobody rides for free" Jon AKA Toybreaker

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boostx
On The Wrong Side.
23/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1100554 posted 12/30/12 05:29 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
All the info you will need.
I also have one set on hand now.



Love the F Letter
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><((((º>

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EHmotorsports
Capt Fabbin Stabbin
1865/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1100558 posted 12/30/12 06:28 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
I have poly fronts and solid rears with washer mod. Been my DD for some months now with several track passes. No slop and it will be fine. I've been solid mounting subframes for years with no clunking issues on various cars. It's really personal preference and I'm used to a more harsh ride since I have stiff springs and shocks. Now I would recomend poly fronts.



click

Posts: 1278 | From: Beaverton | Member Since: 09/26/12 | IP: (24.21.177.205) | Report this post to a Moderator


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