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Re: #674 has crankwalk. What the hell do I do now?


3rdstrikedsm
Now mandatory for Wendy's Chili to come with cheese


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1097950 posted 12/13/12 12:57 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting OldHairyBastard:

I know most people might not want to hear it but I would just go back to a 2.0L and stick with it. I rev it to 10,000 RPM + and have never had an issue. Terry at class one is the guy who built it and knive edged the crank. I also have a twin disk Devo Tunning Quartermaster clutch. Best shifting clutch I've ever had. No lift shifts on a stock Trans. If anyone wants to call BS just ask anyone of the old time Cru wh has taken a ride with me. I'm not nice to my car. I built it to beat it.




Yup I agree with Doug 2.0 is been proven to make the power!



1994 supra 6spd 612whp and more to come soon!
1995.5 Audi s6 Vi-pec powered!

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JamesFoster
Infamous BMX Master
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1097964 posted 12/13/12 02:25 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The only reason I'm reluctant to go back to a 2.0 is because I would like to reuse my patter rods and cp pistons. I suppose I could buy all new stuff but I feel like that's not really necessary since I already have what I have. If all else fails I'll build a separate backup motor as a 2.0



#674/1000 760hp/630tq street car, broken transmission at the moment.
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DynastyLCD
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1097980 posted 12/13/12 03:32 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
well, you would only need to replace the pistons. you could re-use the rods.

i agree with you though, its still coughing up roughly $500 give or take for a new set of slugs, and that sucks.



- Phil

'92 Galant VR4 - 881/1000 - 2.0/FPgreen daily
'92 Eagle Talon TSi - 2.3/3052/1600's/killmode.
'05 Honda TRX450r - pack-a-punched woods weapon
You call down the thunder, and i'll reap the whirlwind.

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JamesFoster
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1098653 posted 12/17/12 10:34 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well, My eagle 100mm crank will be here tomorrow and I'll be taking it down to the machine shop. The machinist said that he would inspect the pistons today, he said the #3 piston might be damaged from the thrust bearing throwing metal up there. IF it is damaged I think I will most likely be going with Wiseco HD pistons or JE.

The machinist said he would like to start over with a fresh block, because he doesn't know why it crank-walked so he would rather start over than risk it happening again. Is there any realistic reason to do this? Or does he just want to make more money by charging me for all the machine work to the new block?



#674/1000 760hp/630tq street car, broken transmission at the moment.
Social: @Jamesfosterbmx

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donniekak
Member ++


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1098847 posted 12/18/12 07:02 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Lots of times crankwalked blocks have a thrust surface that isn't perpendicular to the crank centerline. Nothing can be done about it, as oversized thrusts aren't offered for 4g63's. I would use another block.

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JamesFoster
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1099007 posted 12/19/12 01:18 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I ended up bringing him the spare block I took out of my other VR4 (852/2k). He's giving me a pretty good deal on the machine work, and I also decided to toss some new pistons in there while I'm at it, he convinced me to go with JE, stroker pistons obviously. So the only thing being reused from the crankwalked motor is the Pauter rods. So I'll have a freshly machined block, new JE stroker pistons, re-using the Pauter rods, and a new Eagle 100mm crank. Now the hard part is gonna be to get him to hurry his ass up and get it done. I just wanna get this thing back together.
Pic of the new Eagle crank:



#674/1000 760hp/630tq street car, broken transmission at the moment.
Social: @Jamesfosterbmx

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James
Does lots of head


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1099013 posted 12/19/12 01:33 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Beautiful



1990 Summit White Galant GSX
Chipped EPROM ECU/2g maf/550cc injectors/3in exhaust /E316G/FMIC/Wally255/AeromotiveAFPR/lower shores MBC

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EMX5636
Carbon Fiber Cage
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1099468 posted 12/22/12 12:04 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Most JE's I've used were a bit noisy, but they should take some abuse. Good to see things are moving along!



91 #108/2000- link
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ApexHunter
Extreme Indoor Cyclist
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1099501 posted 12/22/12 04:21 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
^ Is that in comparison to other pistons forged from 2618 alloy? Reason i'm curious is 2618 slugs are usually loud when cold.

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ktmrider
Cool Guy Crowd


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1099528 posted 12/22/12 10:09 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
^^ I'd guess in relation to 4032 alloy aluminum.

Had JE's in a Dodge V8, rattled like a diesel at startup but quieted down pretty quick. Folks with 4032 slugs had no such issues altho the rumor is they are not as detonation friendly as 2618.



Mike O.
#464/1000 - Sold
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EMX5636
Carbon Fiber Cage
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1099590 posted 12/23/12 01:00 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That's in relation to other forged pistons. I have heard they are more durable because of the material compound, just know they tap around a bit. No big deal, I had a set of JE stroker pistons in my old 2.3L. They were a bit loud on startup, but when I pulled them out after about 2k miles, there wasn't any abnormal scuffing so just nature of the beast I guess.



91 #108/2000- link
97 Kawi ZX7R Street/Track
03 Kawi KLX400R Supermoto
05 CTS-V Stealth Grey
09 Hummer H3T

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ApexHunter
Extreme Indoor Cyclist
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1099604 posted 12/23/12 02:40 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yeah, indeed the nature of the beast. All the ones that use 2618 are like that. Gotta use more piston to wall clearance (than 4032) due to relatively large degree of thermal expansion. More ductile, higher tensile strength, and consequently more detonation resistant. The 4032's have higher silicon content so less thermal expansion but they are less ductile, lower tensile strength.

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G Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1100630 posted 12/31/12 01:22 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
click



www.japanesenostalgiccar.com
www.nostalgic.co.jp

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boostin4door
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1100802 posted 01/01/13 03:31 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Good to see progress being made.

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JamesFoster
Infamous BMX Master
674/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1107877 posted 02/12/13 02:13 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well, I just got back from New Zealand Sunday, and I picked up the shortblock yesterday from the machine shop. Going to start assembling it tonight, I'll get some pictures of it posted up as soon as I get it on the stand. I'm excited, hoping to get it all assembled and ready to drop in the car by this weekend.



#674/1000 760hp/630tq street car, broken transmission at the moment.
Social: @Jamesfosterbmx

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fuel
"Just to be pedantic!"


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1107953 posted 02/12/13 08:07 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
off topic but how did you like New Zealand?



'91 E39A Galant VR-4 Evolution | '80 A164A Eterna GSR Turbo

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JamesFoster
Infamous BMX Master
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1108005 posted 02/13/13 12:30 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
It was one of the most amazing places I've ever been, I loved it. We went caving, rafting (and flipping the raft) down waterfalls, and some other cool stuff in between shows.



#674/1000 760hp/630tq street car, broken transmission at the moment.
Social: @Jamesfosterbmx

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JamesFoster
Infamous BMX Master
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1110046 posted 02/22/13 12:08 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Update!







Wrapped up for the night.



#674/1000 760hp/630tq street car, broken transmission at the moment.
Social: @Jamesfosterbmx

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GSTwithPSI
A hole
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1110057 posted 02/22/13 01:25 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Looks great James! I have the same Harbor Freight engine stand. Some of the stuff they have is actually worth buying.

Just a few things I figured I'd mention I learned over time, and during my last few builds. Most are common sense things that I just forgot trying to rush or whatever. Some of which I could have taken care of while the motor was on the stand, and ended up having to fix after the motor was in the car (making it a pain).

-Make sure the bolts on your adjustable cam gears are tight. Seems pretty obvious, but this was the reason I misdiagnosed and pulled my second motor.

-Make sure you put a little sealer on the balance shaft check bolt, and make sure it is tight, or it will leak oil.


-When you mate the trans and motor, don't forget the spacer/dust plate. It can be installed with the motor and trans is in the car, but it's a real bastard. Ask me how I know... click

-Before your first start up, remove all the spark plugs and unplug all your injectors. Crank the motor and peek inside the oil fill hole in the valve cover. When you see oil getting to the head, on the rockers, cams, etc, the motor is primed.

-After you get the motor in, use the fuel pump activation terminal on the bulkhead to activate the pump. Activate the pump and check for leaks before trying to start the car (so it don't go boom). You can also make an initial fuel pressure adjustment at that time (if you have an AFPR), while the car isn't running. You will have to do it again at idle, but this way it is pretty close already, and not way out of whack during your first start up.

The build is looking great though, and I hope it turns out great for you man. How much of the engine assembly did you end up doing yourself?

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5OF2k
Member ++
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1110207 posted 02/22/13 06:38 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting JamesFoster:

Update!






No timing covers?

Looks good though man, i like! Which rods did you wind up going with?

What are those BMX frames in the background, BTW?? Lol

-Jake



1993 Talon TSI, FPgreen DD
1957 VW Beetle Sedan Deluxe
1997 Civic EX, B18c/5lug swapped
2002 Yamaha Fz-1
Looking for another GVR4, or 5/2000...PM!

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JamesFoster
Infamous BMX Master
674/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1110645 posted 02/25/13 04:38 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting GSTwithPSI:

Looks great James! I have the same Harbor Freight engine stand. Some of the stuff they have is actually worth buying.

Just a few things I figured I'd mention I learned over time, and during my last few builds. Most are common sense things that I just forgot trying to rush or whatever. Some of which I could have taken care of while the motor was on the stand, and ended up having to fix after the motor was in the car (making it a pain).

-Make sure the bolts on your adjustable cam gears are tight. Seems pretty obvious, but this was the reason I misdiagnosed and pulled my second motor.

-Make sure you put a little sealer on the balance shaft check bolt, and make sure it is tight, or it will leak oil.


-When you mate the trans and motor, don't forget the spacer/dust plate. It can be installed with the motor and trans is in the car, but it's a real bastard. Ask me how I know... click

-Before your first start up, remove all the spark plugs and unplug all your injectors. Crank the motor and peek inside the oil fill hole in the valve cover. When you see oil getting to the head, on the rockers, cams, etc, the motor is primed.

-After you get the motor in, use the fuel pump activation terminal on the bulkhead to activate the pump. Activate the pump and check for leaks before trying to start the car (so it don't go boom). You can also make an initial fuel pressure adjustment at that time (if you have an AFPR), while the car isn't running. You will have to do it again at idle, but this way it is pretty close already, and not way out of whack during your first start up.

The build is looking great though, and I hope it turns out great for you man. How much of the engine assembly did you end up doing yourself?




Yeah I agree about Harbor Freight, definitely only buy things with no moving parts from there.
Thanks for the advice, I actually thought of the cam gear bolts when I was putting those back on, definitely something you don't want to forget. Thanks for the other tips as well.
I had the machine shop assemble the shortblock, and I did everything else.

Quoting 5OF2K:

No timing covers?

Looks good though man, i like! Which rods did you wind up going with?

What are those BMX frames in the background, BTW?? Lol

-Jake




Whoops, thanks for pointing out the timing covers, I went back and put those on after I saw that.
I ended up reusing the Pauter rods out of the last engine.

The BMX frames are just stuff I've accumulated over the years, there's a technique race frame, one of my signature KHE Triple Threat frames from a few years ago, and some other stuff.



#674/1000 760hp/630tq street car, broken transmission at the moment.
Social: @Jamesfosterbmx

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JamesFoster
Infamous BMX Master
674/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1110646 posted 02/25/13 04:45 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well, I painted the block, got it all together, and put it in the car, just need to put the tranny on now and put everything back together.






#674/1000 760hp/630tq street car, broken transmission at the moment.
Social: @Jamesfosterbmx

Posts: 581 | From: Moreno Valley, CA | Member Since: 10/14/08 | IP: (76.93.234.71) | Report this post to a Moderator

5OF2k
Member ++
5/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1110647 posted 02/25/13 04:52 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Good deal man! I wish I had room to keep all of my old frames and such. I just got rid of my old Mosh 2.0 race frame and my '00 Mirra Pro frame/fork/bars/etc. almost considered classics at this point lol!

Glad to see this thing coming back together, it's by far one of my favorite GVR4s out there. It's just got that "all business" attitude, yknow?

-Jake



1993 Talon TSI, FPgreen DD
1957 VW Beetle Sedan Deluxe
1997 Civic EX, B18c/5lug swapped
2002 Yamaha Fz-1
Looking for another GVR4, or 5/2000...PM!

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faqinshiet
Member +


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1110653 posted 02/25/13 05:51 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yes! Awesome to see this car coming back together!



90 GGSX-VR4 clone

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Steve885
Member
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1110710 posted 02/26/13 01:31 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Looks good..shoot a vid when u start it !!!!! U gonna smog that?

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