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Re: About to tackle first timing belt replacement


dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029040 posted 10/26/11 12:12 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Palmface.gif. If I had set the pinholes further left the belt would have gone on easier.

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dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029045 posted 10/26/11 12:23 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting pauleyman:


turn the crank just a few degrees before you tension it. Takes all the slack out of the back side.

Then you tension,

then you rotate,

then you check protrusion.

in the end all that matters is the protrustion




I'm doing this next. Protrusion is the protrusion/gap at the tensioner piston, correct?

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dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029053 posted 10/26/11 01:10 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I need to put this down until the am. I don't have a long enough threaded rod and I'm not see how the tension can be set correctly without it.

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dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029145 posted 10/26/11 01:23 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Initially I wasn't going to replace the tensioner because it only has about 10k on it, however the date stamped on the side is 2001 and I'm not feeling good about trusting a 10 year old hydraulic part here. It's going to take a day to get one from the dealer so finishing this is pushed out again. I guess it's officially JSBing now

Here's a pic of the the tensioner compression tool I built. The center nuts were to capture a box end ratcheting wrench for backing it out, but I think I'm going to just locktite a couple nuts on the end instead. I figure that should hold for removal. The rod is 8mmx1.25. You can also modify a battery hold down bolt as shown here - click I don't have a tap and die set so that didn't work for me.

I had to buy a long piece of threaded rod for this and have enough to make some extra if anyone needs one of these. I could do them for $12 shipped either as pictured or with two nuts locktited on the end.


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EgonOlsen
Member +
1302/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029234 posted 10/26/11 06:31 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Nice work mate.

On the tensioner tool and the cam tool you can get both here for 40 or tensioner for 15.
click



Galant '91 VR4 1302/2000
Celeste 80 1600 ST

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dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029272 posted 10/26/11 09:31 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks for the link to the tools. I added that to the first post.

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pauleyman
Junior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029290 posted 10/26/11 10:33 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
aren't you done yet?
Practice a whole bunch and the you can knock one out before lunch on a saturday. Remodeled my kitchen that way.



Paul Lyons
24 years of mitsu
I must be nuts.

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dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029294 posted 10/26/11 10:41 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I could go finish it right now if I wanted to use a 10 year old tensioner.

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dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029385 posted 10/27/11 10:31 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Is there a page where I can find torque values for the pulleys (tensioner, WP, 4x crank bolts)? I don't see them on the vfaq. If not can someone post those torque settings? I'll add them to the first post so other guys will have them in the future.

Hoping to finish this tonight.

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fuel
"Just to be pedantic!"


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029432 posted 10/27/11 03:58 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
click



'91 E39A Galant VR-4 Evolution | '80 A164A Eterna GSR Turbo

-- Visit my JDM Galant VR-4 info & specifications site here! --

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dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029506 posted 10/27/11 07:45 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
It took several tries but I finally got the gap to be correct after rotating the engine ~6 times. Now I'm waiting 15 min and hopefully will be able to start putting it back together.

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dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029541 posted 10/27/11 09:20 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The clearance at the tensioner was too tight after 15mins. Having alot of trouble getting this tension right. Any tips?

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dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029550 posted 10/27/11 09:46 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Ugh. I was turning the crank a couple degrees before tensioning and heard a click that could have been a tool shifting or it could have been something like the exhaust side cam jumping a tooth.

I rotated the crank to try and get everything back to TDC again and it doesn't look like that is going to happen. What is the best way to get back to TDC from here?


Edited by dammitjim (10/27/11 10:00 PM)

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pauleyman
Junior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029552 posted 10/27/11 09:48 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Remove the slack on the idle side before you tension (turn the crank a few degrees clockwise, just enough to take the slack out). Set the tension per factory specs, rotate motor 6 times. Check tension. If it's too tight you're leaning on the eccentic pulley too much. Without the objective measurement of the specified inch pound wrench you'll just have to feel for it. Even if you have to do it a few times you'll learn something. After you set tension back the bolt off a few times. BTW I'm assuming you put the tensioner bolt in until the pin was loose. I've done it by feel for years and when it's just right the pin stays loose. You'll notice if you lean on the eccentric too much when you back off the bolt the pin gets tight. You can probably even see the arm push down....actually before you even back the bolt out it'll start to get tight. You'll see what I mean. Try it.



Paul Lyons
24 years of mitsu
I must be nuts.

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dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029553 posted 10/27/11 10:01 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Could you take a look at my previous post? I could really use help getting it back to TDC.

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pauleyman
Junior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029559 posted 10/27/11 10:27 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If you must take the belt off, rotate everything back a little where it needs to be and put it back on. If you slipped a tooth on one thing introduce slack on that item and slip it back a notch. Once I get the belt on the cam gears I put two binder clips on them so the belt can't slip. Slack off the idle side and that takes care of the oil pump gear, that only leaves the crank.
The belt, gears etc doesnt' have to be exactly at TDC when you tension it. Only when you're first getting the belt on so you know you are tooth for tooth. Once it's on and tensioned you're going to rotate it around anyway and double check. The worst thing is if you screw it up you'll figure it out when you rotate around and realize you're off a tooth. Sucks but if you did your homework that typically doesn't happen. You're down to just setting tension. Shouldn't take you just a few min to get the belt back on then retension.



Paul Lyons
24 years of mitsu
I must be nuts.

Posts: 89 | From: Oklahoma City, OK | Member Since: 02/27/11 | IP: (99.172.167.147) | Report this post to a Moderator

dammitjim
Member +


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029567 posted 10/27/11 10:57 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Here are pictures of where I'm at with the crank and the cams




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pauleyman
Junior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029571 posted 10/27/11 11:09 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
hmm. looks pretty far off. Take a wrench and turn the exhaust cam backwards. When the cams line up stop. Check the crank. If it's not right pull the belt off the tension and turn it until it is. Put the belt back on and do it again. If you take a few binder clips you won't slip anything on the cams. Zip ties work too but it's less elegant as you have to cut them off. Shouldn't take you a min. You're lucky you're only lining up 3 things instead of 5.



Paul Lyons
24 years of mitsu
I must be nuts.

Posts: 89 | From: Oklahoma City, OK | Member Since: 02/27/11 | IP: (99.172.167.147) | Report this post to a Moderator

dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029580 posted 10/27/11 11:28 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Got some assistance from a very helpful forum member and I'm back in business. Going to get the belt on and call it a night for tonight.




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dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029589 posted 10/27/11 11:55 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Is it normal to have this play in the tensioner pulley with the pulley torqued and the tensioner pin -not- pulled?

click

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Barnes
Firechicken
908/1000
237/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029608 posted 10/28/11 01:26 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
It almost looks like you put your tensioner pulley on backwards. The flanged part of the pulley faces towards the passenger side of the car. Also, it could be the tensioner arm that the pulley is bolted to. Make sure it is tighten properly.



-Jon Barnes
#580/2000 (Long Gone)
#908/1000 Black (Sold)
#237/2000 White

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fuel
"Just to be pedantic!"


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029615 posted 10/28/11 02:18 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
tensioner pulley looks the right way to me. I would check that pivot bolt though.



'91 E39A Galant VR-4 Evolution | '80 A164A Eterna GSR Turbo

-- Visit my JDM Galant VR-4 info & specifications site here! --

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dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029635 posted 10/28/11 07:18 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I never took it off. It's only got about 10k miles since the last belt change so I was reusing the arm/pulley. Maybe I'll should just replace it.

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pauleyman
Junior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029636 posted 10/28/11 07:38 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
No that's not normal. Is the pivot bolt tight?



Paul Lyons
24 years of mitsu
I must be nuts.

Posts: 89 | From: Oklahoma City, OK | Member Since: 02/27/11 | IP: (99.172.167.147) | Report this post to a Moderator

maroonmetallic
VR4sRus at the old school frosty stop
710/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029637 posted 10/28/11 07:38 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Something is not right there. Is it the pullet itself of the mounting plate that is loose?
There are two bolts & lockwasher/nut (3 tightening points) that hold that assembly & the swing arm of the tesnioner bearing onto the side of the block. (The mounting plate is also the engine side of that engine mount.)

Regards,
-Shawn



---'92 GVR4 710/1000 (alive 8/2014)
---'12 Forester (DD)
---'92 Galant LS *gone*
---'92 Galant GSR *parted out*
---'93 Galant LS *gone*
---'93 Galant S *parted out*
---'92 Colt (63 swap) *sold*

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