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Re: About to tackle first timing belt replacement


dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1028979 posted 10/25/11 10:20 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
When I removed the belt the exhaust side cam jumped to the left a little with a click noise. Is this normal?


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Barnes
Firechicken
908/1000
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1028980 posted 10/25/11 10:24 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
1)Timing cover bolts are quite a few different lengths. They should not all be the same. Also, if you are missing one, that is generally why pulleys will rub through the cover.

2)Just remember to compress the tensioner slowly when you have it out of the car.

3)Yes, the exhaust cam will click to the left. That's normal.



-Jon Barnes
#580/2000 (Long Gone)
#908/1000 Black (Sold)
#237/2000 White

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pauleyman
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1028984 posted 10/25/11 10:26 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Easier to just make a tool out of allthread. Battery hold down works if you run a die down it but the threads aren't quite full threads and they can be gouged easily.



Paul Lyons
24 years of mitsu
I must be nuts.

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dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1028986 posted 10/25/11 10:31 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Indexing marks I put on the old belt transferred to the new one:


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dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1028987 posted 10/25/11 10:34 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Barnes:

1)Timing cover bolts are quite a few different lengths. They should not all be the same.
2)Just remember to compress the tensioner slowly when you have it out of the car.




They are almost all the same. I should probably order a new set.

Iade a mistake there with the alternator bolt and tightened it not slowly.

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Barnes
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1028989 posted 10/25/11 10:36 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well, if you use a bolt it might not be so bad. Generally when people take the tensioner out of the car they put it in a vice or a c-clamp and you can REALLY squeeze it down fast. Are you sure you read the vfaq enough times? It specifically says to compress the tensioner slowly.



-Jon Barnes
#580/2000 (Long Gone)
#908/1000 Black (Sold)
#237/2000 White

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dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1028992 posted 10/25/11 10:42 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Anyone have a diagram of which bolts hold in the tensioner or a pic of one out of the car? Not sure which bolts to remove.

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dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1028994 posted 10/25/11 10:44 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Barnes:

Well, if you use a bolt it might not be so bad. Generally when people take the tensioner out of the car they put it in a vice or a c-clamp and you can REALLY squeeze it down fast. Are you sure you read the vfaq enough times? It specifically says to compress the tensioner slowly.




Frequency is ok, clearly comprehension was a problem. I got excited when it looked like that bolt might work and forgot.

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dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1028997 posted 10/25/11 10:49 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Are there 4 bolts to the tensioner with one behind the pulley? If so is there a trick to removing the pulley?

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pauleyman
Junior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1028998 posted 10/25/11 10:49 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If you were just using a ratchet to turn that down you're fine. Bolts holding the tensioner on are soft of self explanatory. Two bolts next to it. Remove them. Key point, If you do belts on other mitsubishi 4g63 they are not all the same. There are 4 different part numbers for the tensioner so a description of "both bolts on the same side" isn't necessarily true.....it is in this case however.



Paul Lyons
24 years of mitsu
I must be nuts.

Posts: 89 | From: Oklahoma City, OK | Member Since: 02/27/11 | IP: (99.172.167.147) | Report this post to a Moderator

dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029002 posted 10/25/11 10:57 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Got it. I was confused because I thought I needed to remove the pulley and tensiOner as one piece. This was easier than messing with the screw.

Anything I should do to test I while it is out? Visually it looks great.


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ercp98
perpetual n00b
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029006 posted 10/25/11 11:00 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
OP, i am sorry i was not clear with my suggestion. i meant get the crank bolt loosen at a shop with their impact wrench and then re torque back. all i was suggesting was getting it cracked loose instead of having a hard time with it with the bump start , breaker bar, or what ever trick to get it loose. sorry for being unclear. did not mean to give bad advice.

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Barnes
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029010 posted 10/25/11 11:06 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Ercp98, that makes more sense. Although we both missed the point because he doesn't need to take it off at all.



-Jon Barnes
#580/2000 (Long Gone)
#908/1000 Black (Sold)
#237/2000 White

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dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029013 posted 10/25/11 11:12 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
WARNING:

It was brought to my attention that using an allen wrench as a pin is not recommended because if the wrench fails under tension it can shatter and potentially cause eye or other damage.



Edited by dammitjim (11/03/11 03:45 PM)

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dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029015 posted 10/25/11 11:20 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Anyone know the torque values on the tensioner bolts? "good and tight but don't be a gorilla and strip them out" about right? 35-45ft lbs ish?

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Barnes
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029016 posted 10/25/11 11:21 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That sounds like way too much, gimme a moment.



-Jon Barnes
#580/2000 (Long Gone)
#908/1000 Black (Sold)
#237/2000 White

Posts: 6249 | From: Richland, WA | Member Since: 02/09/03 | IP: (71.94.221.185) | Report this post to a Moderator

Barnes
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029017 posted 10/25/11 11:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
14-20 ft-lbs for the tensioner bolts



-Jon Barnes
#580/2000 (Long Gone)
#908/1000 Black (Sold)
#237/2000 White

Posts: 6249 | From: Richland, WA | Member Since: 02/09/03 | IP: (71.94.221.185) | Report this post to a Moderator

dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029020 posted 10/25/11 11:30 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Vfaq says to position the pinholes to the left of the center bolt but the diagram shows one almost at 12 o'clock like I have it set in the pic. Not sure if this is correct.


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Barnes
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029021 posted 10/25/11 11:31 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You will want to leave the tensioner pulley bolt loose enough that you can rotate the pulley to set the tension, but in the end, the holes will be very close to that position.



-Jon Barnes
#580/2000 (Long Gone)
#908/1000 Black (Sold)
#237/2000 White

Posts: 6249 | From: Richland, WA | Member Since: 02/09/03 | IP: (71.94.221.185) | Report this post to a Moderator

dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029022 posted 10/25/11 11:34 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thank you sir. I checked them with a t wrench and my guess was more than 14 and less than 20. Rockstar torquing.

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dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029029 posted 10/25/11 11:49 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Zip ties are the bomb. Newb observation here- if I hadnt transferred the marks to the new timing belt it would have been very difficult to determine the distance between these two. With the Outside marks lined up to the belt the inside marks looked a tooth off. The pulleys needed to be shifted over to line everything up. Probably old news to guys that have done this but it freaked me out at fIrst

So I wish I had counted teeth between the outside marks before removal as a triple check. I compared both marked belts and the current install and go 39 teeth on the belt including the marked tooth on the right.

Hopefully Some of you guys stick with me a little longer. I expect I'll have questions in a few regarding setting the tension



Edited by dammitjim (10/26/11 02:00 AM)

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pauleyman
Junior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029032 posted 10/25/11 11:58 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I doubt that's where the tensioner ends up.....Doesn't really matter where it ends up anyway. The instructions are clear on how the factory wants it done but few people own a beam style inch pound torque wrench. Only thing that really matters in the end is that the protrusion of the hydraulic tensioner is in the correct range. Do NOT measure it until you've rotated the engine around. They tell you to go around 6 times because that's how many times it takes to get all the marks to line up again. In your case probably fewer but I'd still go 6. The issue is the idle side of the belt can have slack in it and the belt could be a little off center on the pulleys. Rotate it around and it's all lined up, centers and there is no slack on the idle side. Then you can check the protrusion of the hydraulic tensioner. It's either in range or it isn't. If it's wrong you recompress and retension. There is no other way. With practice you no longer have to measure it. Done juuuuuuust right the pin will go back in the hole perfectly. Don't forget to loosen the adjuster bolt first assuming you used one. I lost count of timing belts after about 50 of them.



Paul Lyons
24 years of mitsu
I must be nuts.

Posts: 89 | From: Oklahoma City, OK | Member Since: 02/27/11 | IP: (99.172.167.147) | Report this post to a Moderator

dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029035 posted 10/26/11 12:01 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So satisfying when the belt finally goes over the tensiOner. Looks to me like everything is still at TDC and the marks are lined up. Stop me if you see anything screwed up. I wedged some mat foam under the belt near the crank to hold it so I could work on the tensioner part from the top




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dammitjim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029038 posted 10/26/11 12:06 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting pauleyman:

Don't forget to loosen the adjuster bolt first assuming you used one. I lost count of timing belts after about 50 of them.




Great info thank you

I didn't use an adjuster bolt.

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pauleyman
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1029039 posted 10/26/11 12:09 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Here is where I see the most mistakes. The back side (idle side) needs to be taut. Not tight, taut. No slack. I have seen alot of people think they have the marks lined up but they don't. I don't think you're one of those. Yours looks right. Anyway what I'm getting at is once the belt is on turn the crank just a few degrees before you tension it. Takes all the slack out of the back side. Then you tension, then you rotate, then you check protrusion. Done correctly it's cake. The first time I did one I had no vfaq (didn't exist yet). All I had was the book. Took me about 3 tries before I got it. Either the teeth would be off, or the tension wouldn't be right after I thought it was. Like I said, in the end all that matters is the protrustion....and the marks of course but I think we all understand that one.



Paul Lyons
24 years of mitsu
I must be nuts.

Posts: 89 | From: Oklahoma City, OK | Member Since: 02/27/11 | IP: (99.172.167.147) | Report this post to a Moderator


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