Chim55117
Well-known member
Please read carefully and throughly before messaging or posting. Thanks!
Hey guys, up for sale today is my VR-4. As much as it pains me to do so, at this point in my life I have other priorities other than my car that have vested my time. It's hard for me to do this, but other things have to come first. I've just finished my freshman year at college, and am going into my second year of college. I'm headed overseas to Europe for a semester abroad this fall, and need to save money to do so. In addition, I've found over freshman year that my time to work on the car is little to none, as I have 17+ credit work loads, and work and leadership responsibilities. The car has been sitting at my friend's house, and is now back at my house - however, it is taking up space because I have recently acquired a 2003 Toyota Matrix as my daily driver for school and work. When I built my VR-4, I had the intention of using it as a weekend only car, and it is now clear that at my age, it is not practical to do so. Given that, I'm hoping the sale of the car will give me some extra income, allow me to focus on school, and clear up some space for my parents. On to the details below.
Mod list:
1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4: 46/1000
Modifications -
Engine:
- ARP L19 Headstuds
- Mahle 8.3:1 Forged Pistons
- Eagle H-Beam Rods
- OEM Organic Headgasket
+ Will include a once used FelPro PermaTorque HG. New timing belt and rebuilt head as of fall, 2011.
Exhaust:
Primo Performance V-Band O2 Housing
FP Race Manifold
Brian Crower 272 Camshafts
Tial 38MM Wastegate
Forge Blow-Off Valve
(Exhaust ends from bottom of V-band extension almost straight to the ground. Very loud, although if you're weekending the car, or plan to have an exhaust built, it shouldn't be a problem.)
Intake:
Holset HX-40 Pro Billet 7-Blade, BEP bolt on housing. (Fed by -4AN feed line from the head with a FP "red" oil restrictor, drainage is properly set up with a -17AN from the drain to the pan)
3" GM MAF w/MAF Translator
Cooling:
Mishimoto 4-Core Civic Radiator
Spal 12" Fan
Spearco Intercooler Core w/3" Piping
'90 Oil Filter Housing & Oil Cooler
Fuel:
E-85 Ethanol
Dual Walbro 255 Fuel Pumps
Ignition:
Taylor Thunderbolt Spark Plug Wires
NGK BPR7ES Spark Plugs
Electronics:
Socketed Eprom ECU with DSMLink V2.5
ProSport 52MM Mechanical Boost Gauge
Battery Relocated to Trunk
HKS Turbo Timer
Drivetrain:
Comp Stage IV 6-Puck Sprung Clutch
ACT Streetlite Flywheel
1G DSM Short Shifter
Brass CNC Shifter Cable Bushings
Aluminum Shifter Base Bushings
Aluminum Drive Shaft Carrier Bushings
Jackson Racing Shift Boot
Razo Shift Knob
Suspension & Brakes:
ProThane Solid Engine Mounts
Stock tranmission
Rebuilt Suspension with Energy Suspension Bushings
Stainless Steel Brake Lines (Front and Rear)
Power Slot Rotors
Hawk EBC Green Pads
TunersNation 3000 GT Caliper Adapter Brackets
3000GT 4-Piston Calipers
Suspension Techniques Rear Sway Bar
KSport Kontrol Pro Coilovers
4 Bolt LSD Differential
DSM 5 Lug Conversion
Interior:
Lancer Evolution VIII Front and Rear Seats
EVO VIII Steering Wheel
Momo Clutch/Brake/Gas Pedal Covers (included but not installed)
Exterior:
Color Matched Hyundai DOHC Valve Cover
Enkei RPF1's 17x8.5's w/Yokohama P235/45R17s
JDM RS Front Bumper
'91 JDM RS Grille
'93 USDM Headlights w/ Sylvannia Silverstars
Pre-Facelift EDM E39A Corner Markers
JDM RS Projector Foglights
Smoked '89 UDSM Style Rear Tail Lights
+ Have a brand new GT500 hood vent that I haven't installed, and a fiberglass AMG replica grille.
Dyno Numbers:
TBD
Current notes and condition of the car:
The was my daily driver in high school, and made a respectable 388/344 off a 20G. Fall of my senior year, I decided to build it for power. I took the stock block out, and effectively the entire old setup with it as well. All the mods listed above were added, and the car ran late last summer, albeit roughly, due to having a base tune on it. Soon before school started, the timing belt snapped due to leaking cam seals. As a result, the piston tops were smoothed, and a new belt, and head were added, along with a fresh OEM headgasket. I had the car running and idling, and then stuck in back into storage for the winter, having found myself with little time to work on it further. Spring came around, and I had the car towed to DB Performance in Blaine, Minnesota for what I thought was going to be the tuning session. Boost leaks were fixed, and the throttle body was rebuilt. However, the car would not start and stay running. After racking up a rather large bill and not being able to pay it until after finals were over, I towed the car home. Shane from DB Performance wrote up a list of ideas as to why it was acting as it was.
Shane's input:
- ECU not the problem, as he swapped in another 1G ECU of his to test.
- DSMLink V2.5 showing no tune on ECU (however, car not staying running long enough/starting to do any adjustments)
He noted that the previous owner may have messed with the wiring, as he noted repair work around the ECU area. Also noted that several plugs had been snipped in the engine bay. Based on that, he reccommended that I source a new harness for the car and go from there.
So, as the car sits, it does not run, but needs little work to do so. Further disclose below.
Other things to not and what not:
In continuation of full disclosure of the car, here are some details about the car further.
- There are some dents and dings around, I would expect this from a daily driven (previous to college) 21 year old car.
- There are some rust bubbles developing, but they have not fully made it through. Rust has not progressed further than it was at junior year, due to being stored winters. I had planned to have the rust spots fixed, and the car resprayed during winter of my freshman year, but that never happened.
- The driveshaft has some vibration, like many of our VR-4's do.
- The injectors taken out and sold. I had white top 1600s in the car, but they ran horribly and idled poorly. I had planned to pickup some smaller injectors for better tunability, probably 1350 FIC BlueMax's.
- There are dual Walbro 255's in the tank, however, I may have bent the fuel float while installing the sending unit, as the fuel gauge is not working. I have a spare fuel float that I think would fix the issue.
- My friend may have fried some relays or fuses. My clock and sunroof do not work.
To recap, to get the car running, it would need to have a new harness installed (unless you feel very skilled at harness repair or electrical, I myself am not that confident). Also needed are a pair of injectors and a tune. The rest listed above I would find to be minor details.
The car is listed with many parts, and is the product of countless hours of work. It's been filled with incredible memories for me, and the first time I saw it was when I was 12 year old, when my brother owned it. Since then, it has followed me to high school and into the early stages of college. I think as times move on though, we find ourselves sorting our priorities. This car has always been a source of pride for me, and I've received alot of comments and won 2nd place in the 2010 MitsuStyle cookout for the Galants. Also featured in a GearBox magazine article last year.
That said, I'm asking $9000, but that price is OBO, and I'd be willing to hear offers. Title is clean and ready to go. I have invested a ton of money into this car, and know there are many parts on this car that could be used elsewhere or a profit that could be made by the future owner. I'd like to have the car sold before August 25th. You will need to trailer this one home.
To those wondering why I have not gotten the car running myself... I've been working full time as well as having obligations this summer prepping myself for the trip to Europe.
Any further questions can be PM'ed to me, or you can text or call me at 612.801.7061.
Some pictures as of today, 6/23/12:
Pictures of the dents/scratches/etc:
And one of my favorites...
Hey guys, up for sale today is my VR-4. As much as it pains me to do so, at this point in my life I have other priorities other than my car that have vested my time. It's hard for me to do this, but other things have to come first. I've just finished my freshman year at college, and am going into my second year of college. I'm headed overseas to Europe for a semester abroad this fall, and need to save money to do so. In addition, I've found over freshman year that my time to work on the car is little to none, as I have 17+ credit work loads, and work and leadership responsibilities. The car has been sitting at my friend's house, and is now back at my house - however, it is taking up space because I have recently acquired a 2003 Toyota Matrix as my daily driver for school and work. When I built my VR-4, I had the intention of using it as a weekend only car, and it is now clear that at my age, it is not practical to do so. Given that, I'm hoping the sale of the car will give me some extra income, allow me to focus on school, and clear up some space for my parents. On to the details below.
Mod list:
1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4: 46/1000
Modifications -
Engine:
- ARP L19 Headstuds
- Mahle 8.3:1 Forged Pistons
- Eagle H-Beam Rods
- OEM Organic Headgasket
+ Will include a once used FelPro PermaTorque HG. New timing belt and rebuilt head as of fall, 2011.
Exhaust:
Primo Performance V-Band O2 Housing
FP Race Manifold
Brian Crower 272 Camshafts
Tial 38MM Wastegate
Forge Blow-Off Valve
(Exhaust ends from bottom of V-band extension almost straight to the ground. Very loud, although if you're weekending the car, or plan to have an exhaust built, it shouldn't be a problem.)
Intake:
Holset HX-40 Pro Billet 7-Blade, BEP bolt on housing. (Fed by -4AN feed line from the head with a FP "red" oil restrictor, drainage is properly set up with a -17AN from the drain to the pan)
3" GM MAF w/MAF Translator
Cooling:
Mishimoto 4-Core Civic Radiator
Spal 12" Fan
Spearco Intercooler Core w/3" Piping
'90 Oil Filter Housing & Oil Cooler
Fuel:
E-85 Ethanol
Dual Walbro 255 Fuel Pumps
Ignition:
Taylor Thunderbolt Spark Plug Wires
NGK BPR7ES Spark Plugs
Electronics:
Socketed Eprom ECU with DSMLink V2.5
ProSport 52MM Mechanical Boost Gauge
Battery Relocated to Trunk
HKS Turbo Timer
Drivetrain:
Comp Stage IV 6-Puck Sprung Clutch
ACT Streetlite Flywheel
1G DSM Short Shifter
Brass CNC Shifter Cable Bushings
Aluminum Shifter Base Bushings
Aluminum Drive Shaft Carrier Bushings
Jackson Racing Shift Boot
Razo Shift Knob
Suspension & Brakes:
ProThane Solid Engine Mounts
Stock tranmission
Rebuilt Suspension with Energy Suspension Bushings
Stainless Steel Brake Lines (Front and Rear)
Power Slot Rotors
Hawk EBC Green Pads
TunersNation 3000 GT Caliper Adapter Brackets
3000GT 4-Piston Calipers
Suspension Techniques Rear Sway Bar
KSport Kontrol Pro Coilovers
4 Bolt LSD Differential
DSM 5 Lug Conversion
Interior:
Lancer Evolution VIII Front and Rear Seats
EVO VIII Steering Wheel
Momo Clutch/Brake/Gas Pedal Covers (included but not installed)
Exterior:
Color Matched Hyundai DOHC Valve Cover
Enkei RPF1's 17x8.5's w/Yokohama P235/45R17s
JDM RS Front Bumper
'91 JDM RS Grille
'93 USDM Headlights w/ Sylvannia Silverstars
Pre-Facelift EDM E39A Corner Markers
JDM RS Projector Foglights
Smoked '89 UDSM Style Rear Tail Lights
+ Have a brand new GT500 hood vent that I haven't installed, and a fiberglass AMG replica grille.
Dyno Numbers:
TBD
Current notes and condition of the car:
The was my daily driver in high school, and made a respectable 388/344 off a 20G. Fall of my senior year, I decided to build it for power. I took the stock block out, and effectively the entire old setup with it as well. All the mods listed above were added, and the car ran late last summer, albeit roughly, due to having a base tune on it. Soon before school started, the timing belt snapped due to leaking cam seals. As a result, the piston tops were smoothed, and a new belt, and head were added, along with a fresh OEM headgasket. I had the car running and idling, and then stuck in back into storage for the winter, having found myself with little time to work on it further. Spring came around, and I had the car towed to DB Performance in Blaine, Minnesota for what I thought was going to be the tuning session. Boost leaks were fixed, and the throttle body was rebuilt. However, the car would not start and stay running. After racking up a rather large bill and not being able to pay it until after finals were over, I towed the car home. Shane from DB Performance wrote up a list of ideas as to why it was acting as it was.
Shane's input:
- ECU not the problem, as he swapped in another 1G ECU of his to test.
- DSMLink V2.5 showing no tune on ECU (however, car not staying running long enough/starting to do any adjustments)
He noted that the previous owner may have messed with the wiring, as he noted repair work around the ECU area. Also noted that several plugs had been snipped in the engine bay. Based on that, he reccommended that I source a new harness for the car and go from there.
So, as the car sits, it does not run, but needs little work to do so. Further disclose below.
Other things to not and what not:
In continuation of full disclosure of the car, here are some details about the car further.
- There are some dents and dings around, I would expect this from a daily driven (previous to college) 21 year old car.
- There are some rust bubbles developing, but they have not fully made it through. Rust has not progressed further than it was at junior year, due to being stored winters. I had planned to have the rust spots fixed, and the car resprayed during winter of my freshman year, but that never happened.
- The driveshaft has some vibration, like many of our VR-4's do.
- The injectors taken out and sold. I had white top 1600s in the car, but they ran horribly and idled poorly. I had planned to pickup some smaller injectors for better tunability, probably 1350 FIC BlueMax's.
- There are dual Walbro 255's in the tank, however, I may have bent the fuel float while installing the sending unit, as the fuel gauge is not working. I have a spare fuel float that I think would fix the issue.
- My friend may have fried some relays or fuses. My clock and sunroof do not work.
To recap, to get the car running, it would need to have a new harness installed (unless you feel very skilled at harness repair or electrical, I myself am not that confident). Also needed are a pair of injectors and a tune. The rest listed above I would find to be minor details.
The car is listed with many parts, and is the product of countless hours of work. It's been filled with incredible memories for me, and the first time I saw it was when I was 12 year old, when my brother owned it. Since then, it has followed me to high school and into the early stages of college. I think as times move on though, we find ourselves sorting our priorities. This car has always been a source of pride for me, and I've received alot of comments and won 2nd place in the 2010 MitsuStyle cookout for the Galants. Also featured in a GearBox magazine article last year.
That said, I'm asking $9000, but that price is OBO, and I'd be willing to hear offers. Title is clean and ready to go. I have invested a ton of money into this car, and know there are many parts on this car that could be used elsewhere or a profit that could be made by the future owner. I'd like to have the car sold before August 25th. You will need to trailer this one home.
To those wondering why I have not gotten the car running myself... I've been working full time as well as having obligations this summer prepping myself for the trip to Europe.
Any further questions can be PM'ed to me, or you can text or call me at 612.801.7061.
Some pictures as of today, 6/23/12:
Pictures of the dents/scratches/etc:
And one of my favorites...
Last edited:
