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Galant VR-4 Forums » Galant VR-4 » How To and Info Archive » 4 bolt install/4ws removal, w/ pics
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4 bolt install/4ws removal, w/ pics


Telecaster
Senior Member
1581/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109489 posted 05/06/04 02:59 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Here's how i did my 4 bolt install/4ws removal.
You can always go to the vfaq for more details:
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/4bolt.html

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My lines looked like this before. These are the high pressure lines and other 2 that join the rail in the middle are the low pressure.


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First thing to do is remove the exhaust for more space. Then remove the 3 bolts holding the axles to the axle cups (14mm) and the 4 bolts connecting the driveshaft and the diff (12mm). Use a rubber mallet to pop the axels and driveshaft loose.

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Use a 27mm socket and breaker bar to take out the axle cup nut (circled yellow). Its on pretty tight so i used the parking break and sprayed lots of PB blaster to get it loose.

Remove the axel cup. I had to use a puller tool on one side because the mallet didn't work.

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Drain the fluid from the bottom bolt and these bolts drop the diff, total of 7 (circled red). Remove the top to long ones last. One is left out of the pic on the left side of the diff:

The subframe will drop once the two rear bolts are removed. To remove the diff, slide it out and find a support to catch it because it'll be heavy. Also that gear shaft, the one sticking down in the previous pic, pops out when dropped. Might have to pry it to get it loose just before dropping.

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Remove the hoses from the connections (circled red) and the 3 bolts mounting the pump to the sub frame (circled yellow):


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Next is the bolts to the rear steering rack. 4 bolts hold the rack in place (one's circled on the left) and the tie rod nuts underneath on both sides of the rack (circled on the right):

If you want to test out the car without the 4ws, you can remove the nuts and pop out the tie rod at the end just like the pic. It should take no more than 10 min to do. The rack can be left in there to stabalize the arms as some people have done.

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Now the fun part. Use a flare rench to disconnect the high pressure lines in the front. Follow the lines along the rail and disconnect the connections on the back, 17mm and 14mm. WATCH OUT! Lots of fluid is going to pour out. Fluid will come out from the front steering rack. When you undo the rear connection more will come out from the line in the front as well as the lines going to rear pump:


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For the low pressure lines i used a hacksaw to cut the lines. Again watch out for more fluid. Undo the bolts that hold the rail supports and yank out the lines.

I just covered the high pressure lines to prevent more fluid from pouring out. The low pressure lines continue around the engine bay and can be removed.

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I traced the lines going to the front rack and removed them (14mm flare fitting) and put a oil pan bolt with a copper washer in its place to seal it. You have to remove the plate to the right (5 bolts, 14 mm) and the right member to access it. (3 bolts, 17 mm in the front and 2 rear bolts, 14 mm).

The original lines can be removed and welded shut. Thats another way to seal the connection. Just be aware that there's a rubber o-ring there before you weld.

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Place the 4 bolt diff back by sliding it in. I used my jack to lift and hold it in place. Start by tightening the 2 side bolts (72-87 ft. lbs). Then the 2 top ones (72-87 ft. lbs). Don't forget that the shorter one goes in the front. Now for the 2 rear bolts (58-72 ft. lbs), you have to raise the subframe again and feel for the bolt slots. I poured the diff fluid before i raised it. I used the jack again and the crossmember flexes back and forth so you might have to push it to make way for the diff.

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Place the 4 bolt cups on and torque the inside nut down (116-159 ft.lbs). Pull the hand brake to help. Use a bit of wheel bearing grease inside also. Undo the hand brake and rotate the wheel so it axel cup bolts slots match up. Bolt that up on each side (40-47 ft. lbs) and reattach driveshaft. Its a rectangular shape for the 4 bolts (22-25 ft. lbs) on the driveshaft so you might need to rotate the diff to match it.

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Edited by Hertz (05/29/07 10:23 AM)

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Telecaster
Senior Member
1581/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109490 posted 05/06/04 03:01 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Here's the finish:



All of the 4ws stuff removed:



The 3 differentials. Stock 3 bolt w/4ws in front, 4 bolt lsd in the middle, and 3 bolt lsd in the back:



All i can say is that it was the messiest job i ever did on the car. You'll learn to hate the lines in the end <img border="0" title="" alt="" src="images/graemlins/mad.gif" /> . Big difference with the 4ws gone. The car feels a lot stable now during the turns. No more twitchy end during high-speed turns.


Thanks to Hertz for hosting images. Let me know if i left anything out,any suggestions, or corrections. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="images/graemlins/wink.gif" />


Edited by Hertz (05/29/07 10:24 AM)

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spoulson
0 people like this


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109491 posted 05/06/04 06:21 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Since not everyone has access to a welder, what are some alternatives to sealing the remaining lines? Why can't you remove them all completely?

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DSSA
Old-Head


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109492 posted 05/06/04 06:45 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
Originally posted by Telecaster:
I traced the lines going to the front rack and removed them (14mm flare fitting) and put a oil pan bolt with a copper washer in its place to seal it. You have to remove the plate to the right (5 bolts, 14 mm) and the right member to access it. (3 bolts, 17 mm in the front and 2 rear bolts, 14 mm).
 -
The original lines can be removed and welded shut. Thats another way to seal the connection. Just be aware that there's a rubber o-ring there before you weld.

^^^ [Idea]

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Pivvay
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109493 posted 05/06/04 06:57 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
All I can say is yep, messiest job i've ever done on the car.

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bob in chicago
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109494 posted 05/06/04 07:09 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You get double "Good Guy" points for that. Over the years, many, many newbies have asked how and now we have the definitive answer. THANKS!

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PhilthMonger
Fernando Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109495 posted 05/06/04 07:29 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
the best way to remove the front rack lines without welding is just using an eclipse/talon steering rack. very clean and noone will ever know those damn lines were there.

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atc250r Galant VR4.org Moderator
Senior Ricer
1552/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109496 posted 05/06/04 10:45 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You get 5 for that my friend! I am jealous of all you Cali guys, the underside of your cars are so clean and rust free it it almost pisses me off [Mad] . Thanks again, I plan to do this soon, I know my 3 bolt doesn't like 5000 rpm launches and 1.7 60 ft times at the track [Big Grin] .

John

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Telecaster
Senior Member
1581/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109497 posted 05/06/04 03:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
Originally posted by atc250r:
I am jealous of all you Cali guys, the underside of your cars are so clean and rust free
John

But you don't have to deal with our smog nazi's [Mad] .

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spoulson
0 people like this


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109498 posted 05/06/04 04:09 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
Originally posted by spoulson:
Since not everyone has access to a welder, what are some alternatives to sealing the remaining lines? Why can't you remove them all completely?

Thanks, DSSA. I was misreading it as some lines were removed and others were welded. I never liked the welding idea to begin with.

Thanks to Telecaster for the VFAQ!

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KingGalantVr4
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109499 posted 05/06/04 06:43 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I never knew there was a 3 bolt LSD ... That makes a LOT of sence now. I was told no such thing as a LSD 3 bolt and my 3 bolt has LSD.

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SteveHebert
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109500 posted 05/06/04 07:05 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Great info - very helpful....

releated question - where did you get your 4 bolt lsd, what are some good sources and what should I expect to pay for a good one? yours looks pretty new - I like that idea...(these questions are for anyone) Currently I have stock RWS

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Telecaster
Senior Member
1581/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109501 posted 05/06/04 10:19 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
Originally posted by SteveHebert:

releated question - where did you get your 4 bolt lsd, what are some good sources and what should I expect to pay for a good one? yours looks pretty new - I like that idea...(these questions are for anyone) Currently I have stock RWS

I got it from the local pick-n-pull for $80. You might find them once in a while here on the classified section. There's also dsmtrader and the classified section on dsmtuners. I've seen them go anywhere from $200-$450. It'll say "viscous lsd" and the rear diff ratio of 3.545.

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xspsi4
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109502 posted 05/07/04 01:27 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
did you have to buy a whole subframe and did the axles bolt up to the 4 lug hubs, I am just trying to understand this a little better before I try this. thanks chris

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sjg
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109503 posted 05/07/04 02:04 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You know, I've driven a number of VR4's now.. five or six.. Everyone always talks about how the cars are scary or don't handle well with 4WS, I'm just not sure ... I've driveb two with 4WS removed, they handled ok, you know, not bad at all, but not great. The others that I have driven with 4WS (save 1, my green one) were not very good handling, twitchy in the corners, etc. Just like everyone describes. Now, my green car, 123k mi, everything 4WS related was replaced or refurb'd by a previous owner at about 110k. That car handles like none other. Yes, it handles like a sedan, but its like no other sedan I have ever driven. Crisp, nimble, responsive and utterly predictable. You should see how people's jaws drop when you go past driving up the street sideways. (I need to get video of that sometime, for you 4WS eliminating guys I pity you for having never experienced it). Up a paved road, 45-50mph, car mostly sideways, driving along looking out the passenger side window, back tires squealling because they just don't turn quite far enough. Here's what I really want to know, what goes wrong in the 4WS system that causes the cars not to handle well? My black car? Scary above 80.

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Minjin
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109504 posted 05/07/04 02:09 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I always tell people to disconnect the two rear rack tie rod ends and experience it for themselves. My car handled great with 4ws. It was definitely better balanced. I eliminated it because I'm more interested in dirt/gravel performance now and 4ws doesn't help with that. For real street driving, I loved 4ws.

Mark

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spoulson
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109505 posted 05/07/04 05:50 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
How about transplanting 4-bolt assembly in the stock 4WS rear? I've been told it's possible, but would you?

What needs to be refurb'd with the 4WS system to bring it back to life?

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sjg
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109506 posted 05/07/04 07:04 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
spoulson, that is the route I will be taking. I will do a complete writeup when it happens, but it is a ways off as yet. I have not even obtained a 4-bolt rear yet (but do have a few leads on them locally).

I too, would like to know what typical failures are in the 4WS system, what routine maintenance should be performed, etc. There don't seem to be many discussions to this effect. I fear I may have led this topic a bit astray now, though. My bad. [Smile]

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blacksheep
Baraqsheep
205/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109507 posted 05/07/04 09:04 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Man, that pumpkin looks new, did you r&R it as well? Just curious...

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iceman69510
Turn Right Racing
855/2000
828/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109508 posted 05/07/04 09:14 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I have considered this, but don't really need the 4-bolt. Since I reduced the toe in of the rear alignment, my 4WS seems to have much less dire effect on handling. I am basically running 0 toe in.

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Jon Galant VR4.org Administrator
Administrator


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 149540 posted 11/02/04 09:43 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Have you fixed that transfer case leak yet?

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TOF
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 161136 posted 12/08/04 08:33 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:

...Now, my green car, 123k mi, everything 4WS related was replaced or refurb'd by a previous owner at about 110k. That car handles like none other. ...Here's what I really want to know, what goes wrong in the 4WS system that causes the cars not to handle well? My black car? Scary above 80.




When you turn the rear wheels in the direction of the turn, you will increase understeer...simple geometry.

Perhaps your green car's superior handling can be attributed to good overall maintenance including shocks, sway bar end links, ball joints, bushings, etc. And tires can make a HUGE difference in handling so you might consider what tires are on the various GVR4s you have driven as well as whether or not they were properly inflated (which can also make a big difference).

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JSTYLE
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 167998 posted 01/02/05 01:53 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Im not sure if its ok to post here.. so i guess ill just post and if it gets moved/deleted i know..

Well ive disconnected all my low pressure lines.. Now im at the stage of the high pressure lines.. Ive cut mine out instead of removed them at the join (17mm and 14mm connection) because i could not get a wrench onto it..

Now ive tried to weld them shut BUT.. it doesnt weld up.. cos theres fluid still in and it all hasnt come out..

1. Is there any other option besides welding them shut? ie... follow both high pressure lines to the rack and then put a bolt in the rack in place of the lines?

2. If i have to weld them shut.. how do i go about it.. tig/mig/arc/oxy? (ps how do i drain the ps fluid)..


3. other suggestions?

Thanks for your help!

Jon

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DookGVR4
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 195787 posted 03/20/05 07:53 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Started this project today. I got all the lines out and plugged the rack where the lines went. Just for reference the thread is 14 x 1.5. I used a oil drain plug with a washer as suggested.

Thanks for the FAQ

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G
obsessed with the turds of others
486/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 197470 posted 03/24/05 06:33 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Also don't pull one from a awd automatic dsm.

They are a 3.307 not 3.545 like the manual trans.



www.japanesenostalgiccar.com
www.nostalgic.co.jp


Edited by G (04/22/14 07:31 PM)

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