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Galant VR-4 Forums » Galant VR-4 » How To and Info Archive » Knuckle and Front Control Arm Removal w/Pictures
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Knuckle and Front Control Arm Removal w/Pictures


chucklesas
Hogna Carolinensis


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 108954 posted 04/16/04 04:11 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
As requested, my Step by Step Front Control Arm Removal W/PICTURES:

Step 1: Loosen Lug Nuts (21mm Socket) [edit]
 -

Step 2: Jack Up Car and Place on Stands
I'm lazy so I do a whole side at one time [Big Grin]
 -

Step 3: Remove Wheels

Step 4: Loosen Hub Nut (1 3/4" Socket)
My brother wasn't around to push the brake for me, so I went with the Screw Driver Method to hold the hub still.
 -

Step 5: Remove Calipers, Brakes and Brackets (17mm Socket)
 -

[ 04-16-2004, 08:14 PM: Message edited by: Charles ]

Posts: 1892 | From: Layton (SLC), UT | Member Since: 02/14/03 | IP: (68.169.107.159) | Report this post to a Moderator

chucklesas
Hogna Carolinensis


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 108955 posted 04/16/04 04:12 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Step 6: Using special tool, and with crown nut loosened, press tierod out of knuckle.
 -

Step 7: Unbolt Knuckle From Shock (14mm Socket and Wrench)
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Then shake it back and forth until released from shock bracket.

Step 8: Remove ABS Sensor CRAP (12mm Socket)
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Step 9: Unbolt ball-joint from knuckle and use SPECIAL TOOL again to press ball-joint off knuckle. (17mm Socket)
 -
Note: Pickle Fork is BAD... Eats Rubber Boots

Posts: 1892 | From: Layton (SLC), UT | Member Since: 02/14/03 | IP: (68.169.107.159) | Report this post to a Moderator

chucklesas
Hogna Carolinensis


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 108956 posted 04/16/04 04:17 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Step 10: Remove Sway Bar Link (14mm Socket and Wrench)
 -

now time to play under the car
Step 11: Remove Chassis Bracket for Front Control Arm Rear Bushing (17mm and 14mm Socket)
 -  -

Step 12: Push A-Arm Down and Unbolt Front Bushing (17mm Socket and Wrench)
 -

Posts: 1892 | From: Layton (SLC), UT | Member Since: 02/14/03 | IP: (68.169.107.159) | Report this post to a Moderator

chucklesas
Hogna Carolinensis


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 108957 posted 04/16/04 04:19 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Step 13: Pull Off Control Arm and Show it Who's Boss...
 -
An addition to the Junk Pile

Step 14: Cheat, and buy newer control arms to put back in
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Posts: 1892 | From: Layton (SLC), UT | Member Since: 02/14/03 | IP: (68.169.107.159) | Report this post to a Moderator

Kibo
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 108958 posted 04/16/04 06:10 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Perhaps I missed something...but why did you remove the knuckle, brake caliper, brake rotor, etc. if all you wanted was to remove the front control arm? [Confused]

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Minjin
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 108959 posted 04/16/04 06:14 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Probably for ease of access since he's not doing it on a lift.

BTW, my car uses a 21mm socket... [Wink]

Mark

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Kibo
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 108960 posted 04/16/04 06:16 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
Originally posted by Minjin:
Probably for ease of access since he's not doing it on a lift.

I've done it on my garage floor with jackstands and a 3.5T jack without removing anything but the control arm itself--it's really not that hard. I can only assume that the rest of the stuff needed to be replaced/removed for some reason?

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Oztek
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 108961 posted 04/16/04 06:30 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
He wanted to paint the calipers also. That's why he removed everything.

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chucklesas
Hogna Carolinensis


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 108962 posted 04/16/04 07:11 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Made for quick access, plus it doesn't take much to remove the knuckles, only 2 more bolts and yeah, I wanted to do something to the brakes since I'm putting on some new kicks [Wink]

Posts: 1892 | From: Layton (SLC), UT | Member Since: 02/14/03 | IP: (68.169.107.159) | Report this post to a Moderator

chucklesas
Hogna Carolinensis


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 108963 posted 04/16/04 07:15 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Okay, let's just pretend I meant to do this.
Steps 4-9 are knuckle removal, and the rest is for A-arm removal... [Razz]

Posts: 1892 | From: Layton (SLC), UT | Member Since: 02/14/03 | IP: (68.169.107.159) | Report this post to a Moderator

steve Galant VR4.org Administrator
Assmilk Pearl


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 108964 posted 04/16/04 08:27 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
My "special tools" was a BFH, but it wasn't able to get the tierod detached from the spindle. I just removed the outer tie rod end from the inner, and pulled the whole thing off. [Mad] Oh and my tip of the day, is unbolt the sway bar link before trying to press out the control arm from the knuckle and fighting with it for an hour. [Banging Head] [Embarrassed]

Posts: 18893 | From: Flemington, NJ | Member Since: 09/11/03 | IP: (65.41.245.189) | Report this post to a Moderator

steve Galant VR4.org Administrator
Assmilk Pearl


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 108965 posted 04/16/04 08:28 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Did your rotor come off the hub easily? Mine is being a royal pain as well.

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Telecaster
Senior Member
1581/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 108966 posted 04/16/04 08:34 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I think this should be a "sticky"

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chucklesas
Hogna Carolinensis


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 108967 posted 04/16/04 09:01 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yeah, my rotor came of really easy, I put them on just last year. The key to making everything come apart easily is to take things apart frequently [Ugh]

Posts: 1892 | From: Layton (SLC), UT | Member Since: 02/14/03 | IP: (68.169.107.159) | Report this post to a Moderator

Romanova
the coolest person to ever post in the past 2 hours


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 108968 posted 04/17/04 08:21 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
Originally posted by stevevr4:
Did your rotor come off the hub easily? Mine is being a royal pain as well.

I hear you brother. Follow the VFAQ for stuck rotor removal. I beat the fuck out of mine with a hammer and it wouldn't budge. Grab a nut and a bolt, take about five minutes and it popped right off. [Big Grin]

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steve Galant VR4.org Administrator
Assmilk Pearl


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 108969 posted 04/18/04 05:36 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
Originally posted by Romanova:
quote:
Originally posted by stevevr4:
Did your rotor come off the hub easily? Mine is being a royal pain as well.

I hear you brother. Follow the VFAQ for stuck rotor removal. I beat the fuck out of mine with a hammer and it wouldn't budge. Grab a nut and a bolt, take about five minutes and it popped right off. [Big Grin]
I dermeled off 3 lug studs, that did it. [Smile]

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turbogalant
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 108970 posted 04/18/04 07:51 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
Originally posted by Charles:
My brother wasn't around to push the brake for me, so I went with the Screw Driver Method to hold the hub still.

If you pop off the center cap you can tighten or loosen the hub nut without a second person ;)Also I may be being hard on you but why was this even posted [Confused] that is a very straight forward removal if you ask me.

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Pivvay
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 108971 posted 04/18/04 08:14 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Remember how many people have never done *anything* when they start off with these cars. Lots of stuff that's easy now was hard for me 2 years ago

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chucklesas
Hogna Carolinensis


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 108972 posted 04/18/04 08:32 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I asked if anyone wanted me to do the post, there were a bunch of yeseseses, so I did it... I'm bored now...

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chucklesas
Hogna Carolinensis


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 108973 posted 04/18/04 08:44 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Oh yeah, and I put in Front Control Arm energy suspension bushings and Front Control Arm Noltec chassis bushings. Everyone was giving tips on how to remove the sleeves... Why did you remove the sleeves? Mine went right in (perfect fit) with the sleeves still intact. I did end up using a propane torch and hammer to melt and beat the old bushings out though.

Posts: 1892 | From: Layton (SLC), UT | Member Since: 02/14/03 | IP: (68.169.107.159) | Report this post to a Moderator

turbogalant
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 108974 posted 04/19/04 12:07 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
Originally posted by Pivvay:
Remember how many people have never done *anything* when they start off with these cars. Lots of stuff that's easy now was hard for me 2 years ago

Oh yea [Embarrassed] I have forgotten about that it has been almost 4 years since I bought my GVR-4 and have changed out so much stuff that most things seem like cake to me. BUT I do remember now that about a week after I bought it I needed to change the 3 drive belts and that took me about 2 hours to do [Eek!] being confused as all hell on how to do it, and that I remember being at work (autozone) thinking that if the check engine light ever came on I would be screwed because I had no idea what to do. WOW how things have changed.

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Kibo
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 108975 posted 04/19/04 05:42 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
Originally posted by Charles:
Oh yeah, and I put in Front Control Arm energy suspension bushings and Front Control Arm Noltec chassis bushings. Everyone was giving tips on how to remove the sleeves... Why did you remove the sleeves? Mine went right in (perfect fit) with the sleeves still intact. I did end up using a propane torch and hammer to melt and beat the old bushings out though.

It depends on the brand. Noltec replacements for the lower front CA front bushing require that you completely remove the stock bushing (sleeve and all) to get it to fit.

As for loosening the outer ball joint on the lower front CA, the local dealer gave me a tip: Hammer away at the cast knuckle surrounding the ball joint stud with a BFH (leaving the nut on the ball joint stud) until it breaks loose. I was convinced it wouldn't work, but he proved me wrong. [Smile]

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steve Galant VR4.org Administrator
Assmilk Pearl


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 108976 posted 04/20/04 07:59 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
Originally posted by Kibo:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Charles:
[qb]As for loosening the outer ball joint on the lower front CA, the local dealer gave me a tip: Hammer away at the cast knuckle surrounding the ball joint stud with a BFH (leaving the nut on the ball joint stud) until it breaks loose. I was convinced it wouldn't work, but he proved me wrong. [Smile]

Worked for me, once I realized that I hadn't unbolted the sway bar end link, did one of these: [Banging Head] , looked like this: [Embarrassed] , and then removed it. Came right out.

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josh long
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 108977 posted 04/26/04 11:26 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
quote:
Originally posted by josh long:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Romanova:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by stevevr4:
[qb] Did your rotor come off the hub easily? Mine is being a royal pain as well.

I hear you brother. Follow the VFAQ for stuck rotor removal. I beat the fuck out of mine with a hammer and it wouldn't budge. Grab a nut and a bolt, take about five minutes and it popped right off. [Big Grin]

I used the two opposing threaded holes in the disk to "press" off the rotor am I missing somthing?

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