The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

How do you bleed the master/salve clutch cylinders???

MX4

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2001
Messages
780
Location
New Zealand
Hey people,
Another easy one for you guys. I need to bleed my clutch cylinders as we have just rebuilt them with new seals. I know there is a special bleeder thing you can buy but I dont have the cash right now. I also know there is a way two people can bleed the system without it. My question is how do you do it and what nipple do you use to do the bleeding. Also where are these located? Please please help me....im desperate....Thanks guysRyan[This message has been edited by MX4 (edited 05-02-2002).]
 

ken inn

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2001
Messages
7,529
Location
krum texas
the clutch slave has the bleed screw on it. it usually has a little rubber dust cap, but yours may be long gone. you crack it open only about a half turn, then depress the clutch pedal, and then pull it back up. the trick is to make the bleed line coming off of the bleed screw go up, then down into your receptacle. i take an old empty can of brake fluid, make a hole in the cap, and run my line(a clear line is best, so you can see the fluid coming out) into the cap. once you crack the bleed screw, you can loosen it with your fingers. it is an easy one person job, just make sure your resevoir doesnt empty. if you have difficulty, then you need another person to help. what you do, is tell them to step on the pedal, and hold it when it goes down, dont release it until you say. then, you loosen the bleed screw, when the pedal is all the way down, tighten up the bleed screw, and pull the pedal back up top. repeat a couple of times, and the system should be bled. i bleed my brakes and clutch all the time, and i never use the speed bleeders, just the line, and make sure it goes up, so when you release the pedal, no air goes backwards, only fluid.
 

beavis

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 29, 2002
Messages
1,172
Location
so cal
if you don't have a friend to help you, it is possible and easy to gravity bleed the clutch line. simply open up the bleeder screw and keep the resevoir full untill only fluid comes out. this is how i do mine and it works fine.
 

number3

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 26, 2001
Messages
7,623
Location
KoP, PA
I installed a speed bleeder in mine and it makes it a snap with one person or two. A clear hose lets you see the air bubbles or lack of. Removing the slave from the tranny (but keeping it hookup to the line of course) to allow for the drain to be the highest point helps removing trapped air. For some reason the factory put the drain on the bottom making it possible for air to get trapped.Harry
 

can anyone tell me the speedbleeder part number that fits in place of the clutch bleeder nipple?
 

gvr4ever

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 6, 2002
Messages
6,190
Location
central Indiana
quote:Originally posted by Remo:
can anyone tell me the speedbleeder part number that fits in place of the clutch bleeder nipple? Generic speed bleeders come with multiple nipples in different sizes. One of them should fit. You want nipples in differnt sizes too. I like them in different sizes anyway. If they were all the same size, life would be boring.

Nipple!
 

Hertz

Staff member
Joined
Jul 29, 2002
Messages
13,501
Location
Chicago, IL
Wow, good thing this topic was resurrected, I was just about to search/ask on this very topic.

I lost my clutch a few weeks ago (slowly engaged closer and closer to the floor until I could no longer drive it safely)... my clutch resevoir was almost empty.

Since it obviously lost fluid does that mean I *should* replace the seals in the cylinders? I was not able to determine exactly where the leak is, though there does appear to be a small amount of fluid near the clutch pedal and I recall a faint petroleum smell -- but if it was leaking in the footwell I would have expected more than just trace amounts of fluid.

Is the cylinder rebuild materials something I can get a generic autoparts store, or do I go Conicelli?

Thanks.
 

4g63t

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 31, 2002
Messages
2,073
Location
Lancaster PA
quote:Originally posted by Hertz:
Wow, good thing this topic was resurrected, I was just about to search/ask on this very topic.

Is the cylinder rebuild materials something I can get a generic autoparts store, or do I go Conicelli?

Thanks.
Yeah, me too. Specifically, I remember everyone agreeing that the rebuild kits everywhere have the wrong size piston, did anyone ever find a source for the right size? I have 2 slave cyls that are just sitting here waiting to be rebuilt.
 

I bought both rebuild kits (master and slave) at Advance Auto Parts.
Tru Torque CMK351513 CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER KT
Tru Torque CSK352155 CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER KIT

They are the correct ones for all USDM GVR4s.
 

Don't forget another really nice trick when bleeding a clutch slave cylinder. When you are done with the process of pumping the pedal and cracking the bleeder screw, try this. Get a hold of the slave rod, crack the bleeder and manually push the rod as far as it will go into the cylinder and then close the bleeder. It gets the air out that the pedal can't.
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Top