NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
04/11/16 09:17 PM
#418/2000 restore & mod thread.



Picked this black 91 non-sunroof up in Miami,FL and carted it all the way back to New Jersey to be my next project & daily driver. Appears to be an absolutely corrosion free no rust example with 184k. I should have the title tomorrow, and then can finally get to making some progress on fixing it up.

Here's some pics of the car in the condition I got it:

Photo gallery link: https://nathancrisman.smugmug.com/Cars/GVR4-4182000








I haven't had much time to investigate on the car yet since getting it home (work/family), but It seems like a pretty solid starting point to building another GVR4 street car for the long term.

My plans as of today (they change daily it seems)....
  • Install HEAT....prev owners deleted coolant to heater...need to swap Tstat housing and water pipe
  • Fix misc street equip...windshield wipers, hood latch, ect, fix sloppy wornout shifter system.
  • Install boost control solenoid & speed density sensors prior to retuning on 93 pump *(maybe 23psi boost)
  • Run at dragstrip and see what the current setup has in it once tuned right.
  • Suspension attention ...the car came with ORIGINAL SHOCKS....thing bounces like a lowrider w/ swishes
  • 4bolt rear end..elim AWS cleanly
  • move or replace or remove aftermarket gauges. might swap wideband for innovate & ditch boost gauge.



Iv got a set of KYB AGX & GC coil over sleeves that can go on it. Pre owner gave me wheel bearings, tie rod ends, brake pads/rotors, and some ES poly suspension bushings. Im sure I have a set of SS brake lines kicking around the shop. Also have a white-line rear swaybar in the shop and ABS delete kits that can go in there. Probably make it a weekend project to put the car on the lift and do all the suspension/brake work in one shot..then get it aligned. Maybe end of april goal for that.


Then onto cosmetics:
  • Im planning to wrap the entire car in vinyl.....going to be silver.
  • Swap seats for nice versions in stock
  • Dye carpet black & a complete cleaning of the interior with carpet out.
  • lots of sanding and black rattle can work to be done on misc trim like the cowl cover, wiper arms, glass trim.
  • ***keeping the damn JDM front bumper cause the FMIC kit was made to fit perfect..Im not disturbing that!


Mod list as I bought the car:
- Manley Piston & Rods 2.0L, BC272/272 Cams
- FP Manifold, FP3065 Turbo, 3" 02 housing, external tial gate
- ACT clutch & flywheel
- ECM link V3, ??? Wideband, oil/boost gauge.
- Mangus V3 cast intake manifold
- Fuel lab -6an filter, AFPR,-6 lines, 750cc injectors
- Evo III aluminum radiator with custom Flex-a-lite fan and shroud
- Custom FMIC kit (ETS core I was told), 2.5" al pipes
- 2G maf w/ custom intake pipe


Progress pics and more info to follow! Goal on this car is to end up with a clean, straight, rust free example....that maybe runs 11.50 on pump gas and street tires......is reliable for daily driving.....and holds it's value.


Yohler
(Junior Member)
04/12/16 07:28 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Link to photos is dead. Congrats on the pickup.

NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
04/12/16 09:02 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Links/photos fixed.




Can anyone identify this wideband? an old zeitronix possibly? It looks like it has display for temp in *C that's stuck at 760...guessing it has an EGT input that isn't hooked up?


ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
04/12/16 09:42 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Quoting NateCrisman:


  • ***keeping the damn JDM front bumper cause the FMIC kit was made to fit perfect..Im not disturbing that!


Progress pics and more info to follow! Goal on this car is to end up with a clean, straight, rust free example....that maybe runs 11.50 on pump gas and street tires......is reliable for daily driving.....and holds it's value.




Mmmmhmmm. Sure buddy, whatever. We know you secretly love that bumper.

Sounds like a fun project. I'm curious to see what that current setup has in it too. Did you try emailing Zeitronix? I've never seen one of those. Looks like a prop from Tron.


iceman69510
(Turn Right Racing)
04/12/16 09:53 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

A little rough around the edges, but solid bones and a good parts list. Should turn out nice.

Have a good time with it. (These cars always suck you [me, everyone] back in, don't they?)


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
04/12/16 09:58 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

hahaha secret love for JDM.... yeah no. Reality is, this car needs my attention in 100 other areas more important that "which bumper cover" is on the car, and any time I spend on swapping bumper covers because of my ego...is time not spent refurbishing the suspension, installing the vinyl wrap, tuning, setup, ect. It just doesn't matter that much to me either way....the JDM FanBoys are just a sore thing for me....reminds me of back in the day when Import Racing went down the toilet when Fast & Furious came out and the Import parts industry went from focusing on performance to focusing on bullshit cosmetics.


EDIT: Im not going to shit up another thread with a prolonged JDM argument for the 9th time....would like to keep this thread on topic of this car.


Truce


ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
04/12/16 10:07 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

edit: I couldn't care less about which bumper you put on it. I just had to give you shit

Fortunately performance seems to be the only constant and transcends markets, manufacturers etc. Aaaand we're back to another annoying and borderline painful cosmetic trend with this Flush/Stance crap Perhaps why i like it here. All business, for the most part.


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
04/12/16 10:08 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Quoting iceman69510:

A little rough around the edges, but solid bones and a good parts list. Should turn out nice.

Have a good time with it. (These cars always suck you [me, everyone] back in, don't they?)




yeah, the cosmetics are definitely rough....25 years of Florida sun has completely baked the clear coat off the paint and faded the interior plastics. Thankfully, my brother-in-law runs VFXwraps....and has like 40 yards of silver wrap material left over from a commercial job....so this car is going to end up silver out of convenience. At worst, it's temporary until the car is otherwise perfected...and will allow the car to be presentable in the short term, then I can make the hard choices with doing body work and a full paint job down the line if the car seems like it's smart to do it (car value)


Parts list wise: my mentality here is to keep the car drivable and not let it become a JSB project that languishes. After I get it setup and make it to track once, Im likely going to put a stock intake manifold in and sell the $$$ magnus intake. Im going to keep the FP turbo setup on there for a while since I don't have anything to swap in it's place and that's kinda time consuming.

Drive the car....fix the suspension/brakes up. Then work on the body/wrap/interior little by little while driving it. Im super happy that this car is running and drivable as is so I can enjoy it and use the car while working on it...vs my typical MO of "build from bare shell" that takes months to get to the enjoyment part.



NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
04/12/16 10:13 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Quoting ApexHunter:

edit: I couldn't care less about which bumper you put on it. I just had to give you shit
.






ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
04/12/16 10:16 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Oh yeah, silver looks great on these cars. Hoping to do that at some point. I wouldn't be opposed to importing a JDM E38A if only for the factory silver paint (and JDM bumpers, of course lol). Actually no, but the silver color option and factory Non-4WS is cool. I still think about how good Josh's old GGSX looked. I'd rather get one of those to avoid the RHD if i can find one. Looking forward to seeing how the silver wrap turns out.



NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
04/12/16 10:29 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Well...the title should be coming from Fedex today. Planning to hit the DMV today and get plates for it, then take it out for a spin tonight and see what Im dealing with. I gotta do those mechanical fixes to the heat, windshield wipers, ect first. But maybe next week I'll start working on the wrap on the big/flat panels that are easier, since Im a novice at the process. It's likely going to be a drawn out process of doing the vinyl wrap one panel at a time.

Plan is to do the hood/roof/trunk myself at home. Then take off all the ground effects, door caps, wing, mirrors, doglegs, fender moldings and give them to my brother-in-law ([email protected]) to wrap those PITA items at his leisure. Then when all that's done...I'll drive the car to his place and he will do the hard parts on the body (bumper covers) and help me out on the doors. Then Ill bring all the "bolt on" stuff home and install it myself.

Then photo session!!! #139 was in graveyard, so I gotta find an equally interesting location for #418 to do pics.


Any more pics of that silver GVR$?


89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
04/12/16 11:49 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

What happen to that other one you picked up saying you were going to fix? Grey one I think?

NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
04/12/16 12:00 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

It's sitting outside my shop as a pretty bare shell, and Im still just unsure what Im going to do with it. There is frame rot that I consider "borderline",....not bad enough that I think the car is unsafe to build/drive....but at the same time bad enough to where if the car was a running/driving car, people would balk at any selling price over $1500 or so I think. (the drivers's rear "box" inside of the dogleg area...you can put your fist INSIDE it from the hole in the bottom). Not to mention the rotted through hood, and the paint clear coat failing on roof/trunk/wing.

I was planning to build it and use it as a winter beater, but honestly...the rot killed my motivation, I just don't see it being worth the investment in time and part value to build it to run, then lose my shirt selling the car and being forced to re-part it out anyway..losing like 80 hours of labor.

I think when I got that car to part out, cause the previous owner deemed it too rotted to keep and it had motor issues.....I was so enamored with finding a "rare grey 92" that I convinced myself the rot wasn't that bad. But now that Iv put some time behind me and looked at it rationally....the rot is pretty bad and i was just fooling myself before...shoulda just finished the partout and gotten it out of my head.

Now that I have a rust free chassis to start with...the grey shell is just off my radar all together.


ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
04/12/16 12:20 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

There's a couple more of that GGSX here click

Here's some others:




NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
04/12/16 12:55 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

NICE....mine will be something of a clone to that other than the grill, wheels, and no wind deflectors. Iv got a nice set of 17" black wheels that were on the grey shell with fresh tires. Obviously lots of subtle differences...but yet...Im liking the silver on GVR4.


oh another note: the GC coil overs Iv got here are 6" long springs 450b/in rear and 550lb/in front..... I think those are going to be be STUPID low and STUPID stiff, as I'm seeing the "off the shelf" spring rates are more in the 350/300 range. Car will likely corner awesome and ride like a gocart with 550/450s (and blow up shocks)


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
04/12/16 07:41 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Got the title from FedEx, went right to DMV, got it registered and my plates. Trial by fire tomorrow....I'm going to drive it around with the kids as my wife blew up a tire and were down a vehicle, GVR4 to the rescue!!!

Kids are going to be chilly on the drive to school with no heat!


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
04/13/16 09:17 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Drove 418 around town today...runs good, shifts good, turbo spools, clutch good, brakes work.

BUT: it smokes like a bastard under engine braking. Might be stuck open pcv valve (no catch can..hose from pcv directly to intake manifold)
Might be valve stem seals.

Tomorrow I'll remove the hoses for intake and see if that cuts the smoke.

Holy crap...blown out front shocks is sketchy!!! Car bottoms out on the smallest little bump. Suspension mods must be a Priority.


But all together, I'm real happy I bought this car...feels like home already. I like it


gtluke
(Fegbasket)
04/20/16 01:13 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

I've got a set of the market lights that go in those empty holes i the front bumpers. Not the nice fog lights that are more popular, but the marker lights like on the silver car above. I'll trade you for some bullshit that my car needs.

NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
04/20/16 01:25 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

COOL. I was wondering why my turn signals are turbo speed!

This car actually came with the fancy foglights in the boxes of parts in back/trunk, but I haven't even looked to see if they plug in, are missing something....haven't really looked yet to see why they aren't installed on the car since pre owner was driving it...been more concerned with fixing the smoke issue and mechanical stuff.

Speaking of mechanical....gotta swap shifter/cables tonight....original one is completely wasted and worn out and annoying as shit to drive like that. On good note...smoke issue was totally the PCV hooked up to intake manifold. smoke is pretty much all gone now after few days of driving it with valve cover routed to a "catch can" and intake manifold plugged.


going to see about hooking up the boost control solenoid and getting some data logs tonight and work on the tuning. Thinking I may skip trying to run it at Island friday since the front shocks are so blown and I haven't got much time to play with the car yet.

maybe next friday

Got my appointment to start the silver wrap job next thursday.....prob take 2-3 days to do it. So much stuff has to come apart to do it...all lights out, roof rails, window trim off...door handles off. all that stuff needs to be sanded and rattle can'd black too while it's off.


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
05/05/16 08:25 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

The color change vinyl wrap project is underway. I put some time in this week cleaning, removing all the exterior items like Wing, lights, door handles, grill, ground effects, door moldings, roof rails, F*R glass moldings, 1/4 glass, lock tumblers...ect..just like you have to for paint. Then had to wash again. Then had to sand all the panels that had failing clear coat as our test vinyl application showed; the adhesive on wrap vinyl is meant to be low-tack until heated so you can reposition it and get all the complex surfaces in one piece. But it's still got enough tack to lift the clear coat off in the areas that were sun damaged. so basically...I had to sand off the clear-coat on the hood, roof, wing, trunk, and upper pillar areas. It sucked. I think I can get away with a murder now cause my fingerprints are gone on the right hand! The car still has some door dings, a dent under a tail light, and some chipped paint on the bumpers and misc areas that will show through the vinyl. Goal is for the car to look AWESOME in photos, going down the track, and on the internet. It will look AWESOME from 5ft away. But I don't have the time or energy to make this into a perfect condition body restoration by sanding every panel to bare metal, doing body repair on every ding..ect.

Here's what the body condition was to start with:


Mike @ VFXCustom brought me the wrap material on tuesday night and gave me the instruction on the clear coat sanding. The car is going to be Metallic Gloss Silver, and the vinyl should start going on tonight....CANT WAIT!

Some pics of the progress as of today:

First wash with dish detergent prior to disassembly

Wet sanding the clear off with 220grit


In this pic you can still see the faint line of clear coat edge in the corner by the hinge area. The areas with the clear flaking off ended up sanded into the primer to get it smooth feeling.


Upper pillars/roof the clear was just GONE.


All removable-painted parts are sanded smooth to best of my ability, cleaned on both sides, and ready for wrap "off the car"


Naked & Clean...washed for third time with heavy mix of dish detergent...should be no grease/grime/oil on the body now.
BTW....when's the last time someone saw a GVR4 with a lower front fender attachment point that was still glossy and not rotted off!!!!


Last view of USDM rear bumper cover...Im going to put the JDM-YO rear on so it matches the front that's already there.
Also think I may put 92 taillights on it...I just like the shape of them better and I have a nice set here.


After taking off the door moldings...found drivers door has some dents under the molding area...which make the molding appear "wavey" ....going to swap the door with another one I have in stock with less dings and no dents. Also going to swap all the side glass from those doors cause they have nice tint already. The existing glass is all sticky from shoddy tint removal by a prior owner, and pass side glass has what looks like clear coat overspray or something....like a prev owner spray painted something in the garage next to this poor galant and hosed off the pass side!


More pics ASAP once there is something to show with the color change.


transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
05/05/16 09:02 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

How much did it cost for the vinyl? You may make me do my galant till I can afford a real paint job.

NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
05/05/16 09:06 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

The cost remains to be seen: my brother-in-law runs a vinyl sign/wrap shop, and had like 2 rolls of this silver wrap material on hand from some sort of "overstock" mistake or the vinyl supplier sending him the wrong rolls and not taking it back. I don't have the full story on it, but Ill ask tonight. either way...Ill find out what real cost is on the material, and Ill keep track of how much we used so I could figure out what the real cost should be to do a GVR4 in case anyone else wants to go this route and compare cost to a cheap maaco type paint job.

As with any kinda of body/paint work....you get out of it what you put into it. Dings, scratches, and chips will show through the vinyl just the same as they show through a paint layer. If you want the body to look PERFECT....expect to spend 10-40 hours in labor to sand every panel down, bondo dings, sand again. Probably should prime any areas that went to metal prior to wrapping..and smooth sand again.

I don't have the cash to lay out for even the cheapest of "scuff & spray" single stage paint jobs, and my brother-in-law will cut me a stupid cheap deal on this wrap job since Im doing a good portion of the labor ahead of time, and will be there to do half the vinyl install too. Hopefully he'll be selling me the material/supplies at his cost as well....but whatever. It's still way cheaper than event the cheapest of paint jobs and it "can" be done at home.


Lets hold off till we see the final results to make a calculus on Value vs Result.


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
05/05/16 10:12 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Progress for Thursday night:

Entire car gets wiped down with Alky once, then each panel again as you apply vinyl


Going to need to shorten the exhaust a bit with the JDM-YO bumps


Up in the air...ready to wrap










That's where I'm at for tonight


Yohler
(Junior Member)
05/05/16 10:56 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Not going to lie, that looks way better than I expected. Looking good.

turbohf
(anyone even read this?)
05/06/16 12:03 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

what he said. that is looking good. im in for updates.

turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
05/06/16 01:02 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Vinyl intrigues me. I kinda wanna do something reversible with my car just to play around with the looks a little.

VR4_1752
(Member)
05/06/16 05:52 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Looking good, can't wait to see it finished!

iceman69510
(Turn Right Racing)
05/06/16 08:09 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Does look good. I am amazed at how nice the remaining paint on the car shined after the wet sanding.

ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
05/06/16 09:32 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Nice updates!!

So far, i've got real high hopes.


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
05/06/16 10:55 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.



I made a stupid rookie mistake and poked a hole in the sheet for the rear drivers door....so I decided to try and not waste material, and gave it a go at trying to wrap some small complex pieces.:








Overall my quality level is abysmal. There are little wrinkles in the corners, and relief cuts that didn't cover 100%. Ill likely end up having to re-do the doglegs on the "inner wheel well" surface. but that area probably should be black anyway, not silver. And I don't have a technique to get the vinyl to settle into the "chrome strip" channel and stick there with sharp edges, so I cut that out on the front fender molding. But man I hate those stupid chrome strips, so Im going to have mike figure that out if it's possible to wrap all the door moldings and such in one piece without the chrome cut out.


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
05/06/16 11:01 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Quoting turbowop:

Vinyl intrigues me. I kinda wanna do something reversible with my car just to play around with the looks a little.




If you wrap #1051 yellow and put Performance Partout on it....Ill buy the material!


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
05/06/16 11:05 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Quoting transparentdsm:

How much did it cost for the vinyl? You may make me do my galant till I can afford a real paint job.




Looks like retail cost on 60" x 45ft roll of vinyl in this metallic gloss type is about $300-$350 depending on brand/quality/mfg. You'll spend $100 minimum on supplies and tools.....couple gallons of ally, boxes of tack cloth and lint free wipe rags, mask tape, knife-less tape, razor blades, propane for torch, squeegees and felt tips. Plus mike has all these tools that are turning out to be really helpful....this glove that makes your hand slide on vinyl, felt lined magnets for hanging it, cutting tools, special shaped/different thickness squeegees to tuck under moldings.

But just like paint...the cost is in the labor. And trust me....this is just as much work as a basic paint job I think. BBUUUUUTTTT It's DIY which I love.


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
05/06/16 11:09 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Quoting iceman69510:

Does look good. I am amazed at how nice the remaining paint on the car shined after the wet sanding.




The paint shined up fine in the areas that there WAS paint and clear coat left....sides/vertical surfaces. But the top of the car (hood, roof, pillars, trunk, wing) had no clear coat left on them at all, and the center of the roof and hood and a spot on the trunk....literally...had primer showing because the black paint layer had been baked off by FL sun too. There was no saving this paint job with wet sanding, that's certain.

some of the pics are a little deceiving too, like the one outside..the car is wet..I literally washed it in the rain both times. (been pouring in NJ all week) when the car dries off, it looks hideous!


iceman69510
(Turn Right Racing)
05/06/16 12:13 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Yeah, I understand what you are saying. My belize green 92 is about the same on the hood and roof. Hood is burned through to primer like yours in one area. I'm looking to repaint them, and kind of hoping I can wet sand/buff some of the rest of the car to look fairly nice.

NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
05/06/16 01:56 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

knocked out a rear door this afternoon before kids get home from school. Did much better in the door handle pocket this time, although I did have to make an overlap above it when I came up with too much stretched material. ehhh...by the time I get to the 5th door, Ill be good enough.





I have some wrinkles inside the door jab between the doors (where you'll never look, but whatever). That's after trying to make 2 sharp 90* angles on a countered edge. I don't think this is possible in one single sheet anyway. to do it spotless wrinkle free.


turbohf
(anyone even read this?)
05/07/16 09:10 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

two ideas for the chrome.
1) pull it out and put black in there.
2) bondo it up, then apply wrap over it all for smooth look.


looking good. really makes me consider doing this too. you say its worth the time/effort/money for average GVR4 owner?


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
05/07/16 09:26 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Some more pics of the process:

Door handles are going to be wrapped silver. (this one is just done temporary to see how it looks..theses need sealant glue under to keep it from peeling with use)


Drivers' 1/4 is done


Roof is done with no wrinkles, bubbles, or blemishes.


Pass side needs the rear 1/4 done..BUT!!!! big butt......I was finally able to do my 4th door MINT...no blemishes! woooot (BIL went back and fixed my fuckups on prior doors for me..he rules)



So....moving along.


Mike basically said those chrome strips because of the deep recess....have to be cut out and done with a second piece. so...,now that I know the procedure...Sunday Im going to make the attempt on all 4 door covers, the remaining front fender molding, and the two long ground effects. Granted..Mother's Day...I have lots of cooking to do, so might not have that much time.


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
05/08/16 09:18 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Quoting turbohf:

two ideas for the chrome.
1) pull it out and put black in there.
2) bondo it up, then apply wrap over it all for smooth look.


looking good. really makes me consider doing this too. you say its worth the time/effort/money for average GVR4 owner?




Thanks. The chrome strip can be covered with silver wrap...that's not a problem...it just can't be done in one continuous piece for the whole panel. I have to wrap the panel..then "cut out a window" for the chrome strip, then tuck the "window edges" under the chrome edges. Then cut out a little strip of scrap and cover the chrome strip..maybe using some edge sealer since it's so small and the chrome is kinda "slippery".

I really didn't want to get into body filler and any actual body repair/work. The car has 1 significant dent under the drivers sail light (pushed in like a full inch), has probably 7-9 significant dings that you see looking at them straight on, and honestly 15-20 little dings, depressions, and flats/bends that you can see when you start sighting down the panels or inspecting things up close. Body work becomes like a vicious cycle where you fix the major dent....then the medium dings start to stand out, ....then you fix those....now you've gone that far..might as well smooth all the little dings. Then pretty soon the car is completely sanded to metal on every panel, has bondo everywhere, and still isn't perfect. I just don't want to even start on that.


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
05/08/16 09:22 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Well...I did get the two larger front door moldings done tonight while watching a movie with the kiddies:

They came out pretty much perfect





NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
05/09/16 07:50 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.



undrpressure23
(Newbie)
05/09/16 11:13 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Nate,nice work man. Got me thinking of going that route too vs paint.

-Matt


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
05/14/16 08:32 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Im busting my ass on the car this weekend to get it done...here's what I have left to do:
  • Wrap pass rear 1/4 (pita)
  • Wrap rear bumper cover (major pita)
  • Fab brackets and mount JDM-YO rear pumper cover
  • Wrap front bumper cover (incredibly hard major pita)
  • snag more door molding clips from shop to install pass side door caps and rear doglegs
  • develop a method of getting those #$%^@ metal clips that hold the thumb button of the rear door handles on!!!
  • Swap door glass from three "parts car" doors into my existing doors (already nicely tinted)
  • Install rear 1/4 windows from "parts car"...nicely tinted....BONUS: GalantVR4.org stickers already in place.
  • Wrap black over tail light backing plate and over chrome edges o the 92 tails...then install tail lights
  • Install JDM-YO foglights and wire up the turn signals.
  • Install wing (after brother-in-law returns it to me pre wrapped)
  • Wrap door window frames in black
  • Install F&R freshly painted glass trim
  • Install freshly painted cowl cover, wiper arms, and new blades.
  • Decide what Grill Im going to use..clean/paint/wrap & install
  • go buy new windshield wash pissers...Im thinking LED light up chrome skulls
  • Design & Print vinyl logos/lettering for Performance Partout to slather over a fresh clean car

OK...maybe next weekend Ill actually be completely finished :banged:


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
05/15/16 08:04 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Well, I certainly didn't get it completed this weekend, but I did make some progress. Didn't have any help from my pro-wrapping family, so I had to march on solo. Basically, I got the rear 1/4 and front bumper done along with some "install" work..but the front bumper took me like 4 hours today!.

Here's a few iphone pics. Seriously...I WILL get it outside this week for real photos, and get it up to shop to install different suspension and wheels.

Brother in law did the door handles for me..they are all installed nice now.


I wrapped the rear 1/4 myself, and did a fairly reasonable quality job with only a few tiny wrinkles back by the tail light.


Fresh tinted 1/4 windows went on with .org stickers.


Up close of the tiny wrinkles and an edge burr that I just couldn't get done


I tackled the front bumper myself as well...and had to break it up into 5 individual sections due to how many complex curves there are...and still needed to "patch spots" and show seams in shitty areas. It's first on my "to be re-done someday" when my skills are better. For now...it's presentable.


As it sits sunday night:


Yohler
(Junior Member)
05/15/16 09:56 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Really coming together. I think a lot of the little things that stick out like a sore thumb to you would go unnoticed by most. Regardless, it looks like a million bucks compared to what you started with. I've seen those org stickers on a few cars, does someone sell them?

turbohf
(anyone even read this?)
05/16/16 01:14 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

wow, that really does look good. i spent a little time looking my car over. most seemed like it might be reasonable to wrap, but the bumpers, front in particular (US models) seemed like it would be a bitch and be best to do in at least 2 parts.

you have the bumper off the car when wrapping?


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
05/16/16 08:13 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Quoting Yohler:

Really coming together. I think a lot of the little things that stick out like a sore thumb to you would go unnoticed by most. Regardless, it looks like a million bucks compared to what you started with. I've seen those org stickers on a few cars, does someone sell them?




exactly. I know where every wrinkle is, and they stick out to me. One of the advantages of wrap is that I can always go back and re-do an area or panel if it motivates me in the future. Im on the lookout for a non-rusted and no-ding rear pass door to swap on. That door has a lot of dings and the worst wrinkles. Had I painted the car...you don't really have the option to swap body parts later or re-do the paint in areas at your whim.

My gaol is not perfection. I have no illusions of grandeur that the car is going to be a show car or pristine example. The goal of this wrap is to turn an ugly duck into a "10ft car".....from 10ft away this car will look like a million bucks. In photos, you can't see any of the minor imperfections in the wrap. This car is going to get lettering for my business, and be the "logo car" for my business advertising. No-one is going to see a few 1/8" long wrinkles on T-shirts, business cards, Facebook and ebay banners, and forum signature pics. hahaha

It will turn heads at the racetrack, and frankly, Im going to best unless I mention it, vast majority of people just taking a quick look in the pits are going to assume it was just painted.



Quoting turbohf:

wow, that really does look good. i spent a little time looking my car over. most seemed like it might be reasonable to wrap, but the bumpers, front in particular (US models) seemed like it would be a bitch and be best to do in at least 2 parts. You have the bumper off the car when wrapping?




The front bumper was done on the car mounted and has quite a few seams in obvious places on the top, that I "could have" done in one big piece, but require cutting an 8+ft long strip off the roll to go wheel well to wheel well . I was so frustrated with the front bumper after a failed attempt on saturday night where I wasted an 8ft section that I just kinda said 'F-it" and pieced it together with leftover cuttings from the doors and 1/4's.

It seemed kinda foolish to spend another 8ft long chunk off the roll (like say $60 of material) just to likely wrinkle and screw it up anyway. might as well screw up using scraps and see how it goes. When my skills get better and Im not in a rush to finish I'll redo it

and frankly..it was only 52* in the garage yesterday. The material is supposed to work best at 73-75*...you would be amazed at how crunchy and brittle it is at 50* vs how smooth and pliable/stretchy it is when warm. Due to temp, Im constantly having to use heat gun to warm the material to relax the wrinkles...so Im working one handed all the time which leads to more wrinkles and bunches. When the material is cooler..it doesn't squeegee out smooth, it tends to stick harder and bunch up.

For a part as hard as the front bumper and for as novice as I am...I need advantages like correct temps and both hands, not disadvantages of crunchy material, stress, and one hand. I'll re-do the bumper with only one hidden seam the first time I lower the car too much and scrub the bumper on a parking decider and tear up the wrap. hahaha Then ill also sand down all the old paint imperfections and chips that show through.


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
05/20/16 10:14 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

So close to being done...this week has been hecktic busy and I just didn't have much time to spend on 418. But, I pulled a late one last night till 2am cranking out the rear bumper on the living room floor:

Satin black vinyl for the door window frames:


Rear bumper is ready to mount; gotta make some brackets for the sides unless I can find a set of "JDM yo" side brackets.


Updated to do list:
  • Fab brackets and mount JDM-YO rear pumper cover
  • Swap door glass from three "parts car" doors into my existing doors (already nicely tinted)
  • Wrap black over tail light backing plate and over chrome edges o the 92 tails...then install tail lights
  • Install JDM-YO foglights and wire up the turn signals.
  • Install wing (after brother-in-law returns it to me pre wrapped)
  • Install rear freshly painted glass trim
  • Decide what Grill Im going to use..clean/paint/wrap & install
  • go buy new windshield wash pissers...Im thinking LED light up chrome skulls
  • Design & Print vinyl logos/lettering for Performance Partout to slather over a fresh clean car



On another note, I picked up a 1gB parts car that has a nice set of Enkei 17x7 silver RPO2 wheels, 5lug hubs, 4bolt rear that will be the likely donner for #418's running gear. Obviously gotta swap the snow tires out for regular street meats and do a complete cleaning on those wheels...but they will look nice and are reasonably light at about 16.5-17lb each.



transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
05/20/16 12:57 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

car is looking really good Nate. im really considering vinyl wrapping mine. i also have those rims and i love the way they look on the car.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/20/16 01:05 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

How durable is this stuff, and what's the lifespan?

GVR4ZUM
(Senior Member)
05/20/16 09:49 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

It looks really good Nate, thousand times better. I like silver on these cars.

NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
05/21/16 08:40 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Quoting transparentdsm:

car is looking really good Nate. I'm really considering vinyl wrapping mine. i also have those rims and i love the way they look on the car.




Yup, Im looking these rims too, they are very similar looking to the ones I had on #139, but these are actually high quality, vs the crappy knockoffs on 139.



Quoting GSTwithPSI:

How durable is this stuff, and what's the lifespan?




It's Avery Dennisson 900 series vinyl, and I think it's "warranty" for something like 5 years on horizontal surfaces and 2 years on vertical surfaces....and they adjust the warranty time by like half if it's 24/7 outdoors vs stored indoors.

realistically, if it lasts a full year and I have to re-do it next spring/summer...I'd be pretty happy with that. Im sure by then all the blemishes will bug the crap out of me an I'll be itching for a new color change and a new opportunity to do a bette job on the install.

Quoting GVR4ZUM:

It looks really good Nate, thousand times better. I like silver on these cars.




Thanks...The silver was not my first choice, but it's what we had on hand, and it was a color that's understated and looks correct on a boxy 4dr camry. Im REAL happy with how it's turning out, better than I originally thought. Wrapping the car screaming yellow, or bright red, while interesting, does kinda look a little out of place and childish. Next time Im thinking maybe a metallic blue or a rust color dark orange.


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
05/21/16 09:52 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Progress:

Overnight Parts from Japan (my JDM rear bumper brackets finally arrived)


I wrapped the 92 tail lights in gloss black....Im iffy on this...it's too glossy, maybe re-do with satin material eventually...unless it grows on me.


The Coup De' Gras: (originally a green 92 grill from #139)


The grill was done SEAMLESS with one sheet. Im getting way better at this...other than a couple tiny little wrinkles on the top (only ever see it with hood open)....you'd swear that's paint.


ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
05/22/16 12:48 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Them's some pretty exotic looking rear bumper brackets. I'm sure G is dying to know your sources.

Definitely interested to see how those tail lights will look when it's all together again. Cool idea to mess with that spot anyway.

This is turning out even better than i expected, nice work man.

More silver vr4 pics here: click


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
05/22/16 07:10 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Quoting ApexHunter:

Them's some pretty exotic looking rear bumper brackets. I'm sure G is dying to know your sources. Definitely interested to see how those tail lights will look when it's all together again. Cool idea to mess with that spot anyway. This is turning out even better than i expected, nice work man.




I like the shape of 92 tail lights more than 91, and the red is more vibrant vs the 91 where they look "smoked" a bit. BUT I hate how the side lower clear sections on 92's are all dark looking don't match the very clear and bright lower center piece. So I figured why not try this...worst case..I peel it off and try something else. Not to mention covering up the chrome edges.



Here's the 92 taillights still on the parts car I got them from...illustrates what Im talking about:


Getting SO FREAKING CLOSE to having it done, yet still so far away. I gotta get grill clips at the shop to install that. I need my BIL to freaking wrap the wing and install that. Tomorrow I'll cut/drill/fab the simple rear bumper brackets and put the rear bumper cover on. Also gotta figure out little tabs to keep the red side lights from falling out...they are just "press fit" into the JDM rear bumper cause pre owner of the cover cut those out. Gotta go grab long 6mm 1.0 screws to install the JDM foglight up front. Gotta snag a new set of pissers at NAPA for the hood. And I gotta swap 3 door glass for the tinted one, and put the interior panels back on.

Im hoping to be done with my current partout (1gB talon) and have open lift at shop by end of week....then bring 418 up there to swap shocks/springs/5lug hubs/17" enkei wheels/fresh brakes on. Probably should do the ABS delete and AWS delete at the same time as that stuff.

MAN Im never going to drive the car!


tommyp
(Junior Member)
05/25/16 04:39 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Looks great Nate. Keep up the great work. I especially like the pic of the bumper sitting in your living room.

NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
05/25/16 07:02 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Every part that was wrapped off the car was done sitting on the living room floor, it was certainly cleaner than the garage!

NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
05/27/16 10:25 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Well...slow going, but I got the 4 door glass swapped over for the nicely tinted ones...and got 3/4 interior door panels back together. Also swapped out a few misc things..door speakers, one chrome handle that was peeling. Got the car off jack stands, battery hooked back up. Im going to drive it up to the ship this weekend and make the rear bumper brackets. Then it should be back to daily driver use. Wrap project took 4 freaking weeks!!!!

NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
05/28/16 12:40 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Drove 418 up to the shop, will finish up the work where I have tools, supplies, and space (garage in my house is getting HOT and cramped). Next up is making mounting brackets for the rear bumper cover, installing the wing, foglights, grill, and rear window trim. Then onto mechanical changes/setup/tuning.













bazeng
(work in progress)
05/28/16 03:28 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Excellent choice in colour..

NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
06/23/16 05:46 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

pre-5AM TOONERING on the drive to work.
Complete:
  • Stockintake manifold swap
  • SD conversion with GM AIT and Omni 4bar map.
  • Make a nice 4" aluminum inlet pipe with a big-ass-filter.
  • GizmoVR4 re-welded my TB elbow to make it fit with stock manifold, added the air bung, and left me an 1.8npt tapped hole for future fun (meth).
  • DSMlink boost control setup/working and set to 20psi.


Today's project is swapping new gapped spark plugs, Im getting misfires at 20psi now. Once misfires are gone, Im planning to get boost up to 24-25psi for 93oct pump gas and work the tune at that boost level for everyday driving.

Still have tons of things on the To-Do list:

  • Swap in a nice steering wheel...and figure out why windshield wipers don't work
  • Clean up engine bay...wire/hose routing, make nicer bracket for FPR
  • Mount the rear JDM-YO bumper, put on wing, rear window trim.
  • 4bolt rear & AWS delete
  • ABS Delete
  • Interior cleanup: swap driver seat, dye carpet
  • Like to find a double din bluetooth radio





Sorry for crappy iPhone pic:


4g6Tree
(Junior Member)
06/23/16 08:59 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

That catch can is a new one on me, I like it. I went with the Monster can my old 1g, but the water bottle is probably healthier

I really like the way that vinyl came out and the gray color. Very nice work Nate.


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
06/23/16 09:07 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Add that to the "to-do" list: proper catch can and proper radiator overflow bottle. both are temporary at best as they are.

NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
06/23/16 05:57 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Tuning is going pretty well, I have the DSMlink boost control working nice at 25psi, the car spools fairly quick and holds rock steady (duty cycle about 43% to make 25psi, and about 35% to run 20psi.)
Running the stock evo8 timing maps for both min/max octane, Im not screwing with them yet. Pulled a couple degrees out at 4000 and 4500 where Iv seen a couple degrees of knock occasionally.

AFR wise..Im targeting 11.0:1 once it's up on boost, Straight 93 pump gas on FIC 750s @ 45psi base (-45.7 global). you can see the VE map in photo below. Im seeing IDC well past 80% by 6500 and topping 95% at 7800 which is kinda disappointing...going to have to upgrade injectors, although Im going to hold off on that decision till I either part a car with 850/950's or think through adding a meth kit.

OH...missfire was a super easy fix: the car had BPR6EKN plugs with those double ground straps with huge gaps. Did a comp test while plugs out...4-3-2-1-: 145, 145, 160, 165 (not wonderfull balance). Motor is supposedly a "built 2.0 with cams" so who knows. Im still seeing some exhaust smoke since changing the intake manifold, so... put it back together with BR8ES gapped to .020". misfire absolutely gone.

only other thing of note: Im hearing some kind of fluttery sound during spool up, and I don't see the map sensor fluctuating like when the turbo surge happens (seen that many times on mine and nelsons cars with BB FP30's) ...I suspect BOV. The car has a crushed 1G oem boV that has an additional vac nipple threaded into the flange.."dodge garage mod" style. I don't have a vac hose hooked up to it, and when that's vented, it should hold rock solid but lose the "quick lift/easy open" assist. I don't trust it.


Tomorrow Im planning to go to Island Dragway and make a few pump gas fun passes with easy 60' (still have the oem pos 3bolt open rear end that I don't want to break). Ill work on the tune tomorrow, hook up the clutch wire for NLTS, and give that boy a look see.




NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
06/24/16 05:04 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Did some more "street tune" pulls this morning with the boost at 25, and the car pulls pretty damn hard. Link showing about 375hp on flat ground in 2nd/3rd gears at 7000+. It's defiantly an RPM motor, even with the stock intake manifold due to the cams and big turbo, going to want to be bouncing the thing off the 8000rpm limit each shift. My butt dyno says it's going to trap 116-118mph as is.

fuel wise...Iv been cranking up the IDC each pull and not seeing much AFR change, especially in the peak torque areas 5500-6500rpm where the duty cycle is still only in the 65-76% range. Im thinking the fuel pump is not adequate (I don't even know what it is...for all I know it's a 190 walbro or one of the super old school nipponsenso pumps that are only like 150lphr and only good for 400hp) I don't really have time to pump swap today, and if that's the cause...my "tune" is going to be all out of whack once fuel pressure is steady and I'll have to redo it. Will leave well enough alone for the week.

Here is a iPhone pic of a clean 2nd gear pull with the curser at max power



Here's a pic of the fuel map changes in response to the above log:


Will go for another test log today and see whats up.


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
06/25/16 04:02 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Took it to Island Dragway last night, drove it to the track, drove it home, nothing broke: SUCCESS!

seriously, I'd forgotten how much fun it was to just drive a car to the track, row gears, make tuning changes, and enjoy the car regardless of how fast/slow it runs.

Here's the slips in chronological order:. First run was literally just rolling out, second was 5000rpm studderbox launch but really slipped the clutch alot and early 1-2 shift, third run a let it out too quick and it bogged bad , run 4 was pretty decent with a little bit of tire spin in first. Trans goes into all gears well, I hooked up the clutch wire for NLTS (used on last 3 passes). Im pretty happy with it all together. If I wasn't afraid of busting a 3bolt rear axle, I'd have worked on the leave and maybe seen an 11.9 to 12.0 but whatever, there's always a next time.



So....I was running pretty high boost and very low timing...like 26-28psi boost and timing from about 3* up to a measly 6* at 8000. seeing random knock blips..like it might knock only in second gear and be clean in 3-4, then next run clean 1-2-3 and knock in 4th. not a lot of info to go on, so I kinda just left it be.

I think my next mods are going to be:
4bolt rear - I want to be able to confidently push it a little harder off the line and get the 1.60-1.70 short times on street radials and still drive it home at end of night.
Meth kit - I'd like to be able to run it with an everyday tune file and only have to make minor adjustments at the track between passes. Im close to max on the injectors too.
New BOV - car has a crushed 1G valve that's got the "dodge garage mod"...and it doesn't freaking open at all, wonder if it's like bent/jammed closed. all it does is annoyingly squeal on decal.
Cold Air pipe - I have another 90* alum 4" pipe that goes to headlight area and turns forward. a quick "ram air" pipe for track use only..remove air filter & headlight. should help.

I may swap out the knock sensor for a new one Iv got kicking around just to see if it changes the semi-random knock retard behavior in the logs.

other than performance mods..i still have body assembly (rear bumper needs brackets made), wing to wrap and install, and interior repairs to accomplish. I did get the rest of the glass trim, the JDM-YO foglights, and clean rear seats put on. Gotta get VFX-Custom to cut me some vinyl lettering with my partout website and #2403 so they can stop with the shoe polish!



All together...it's coming along nicely.


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
06/28/16 11:52 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Bought a used meth kit, will hopefully have it in hand by end of week, and get play around with it soon. Im kinda spending my mental energy this week deciding how I want to activate, tune, and failsafe this methanol injection setup. Likely going to be getting ahold of an AEM meth flow gauge that I can log and use to activate the secondary min octane maps when the meth flow doesn't happen. Tune the regular maps for the meth flowing.

Since friday, Iv also turned the boost down to 20psi and still getting the flutter/surge sound on spoolup, which Im going to attribute to BOV. That's on my immediate plan to change for a Tial...have one here...just need to order an aluminum flange.


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
07/20/16 08:46 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.



Meth kit installed, sorted out a bunch of issues with leaks, fitment, and misfires. Got it working pretty well, as the above screen shot shows. Picked up a significant chunk of power vs the 93oct only tune I ran at the track few weeks ago. Planning to go back to Island on friday 7/22/16 for another test night. Will continue to raise boost/timing till I hit the limit with the single M10 nozzle and then re-assess where to go from there (add another nozzle?)


ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
07/20/16 09:22 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Sweet. Earlier you had mentioned that the car had an unknown fuel pump and you may have been exceeding its capabilities. What ended up being the deal there?

NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
07/20/16 09:31 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

I pulled it out, it ended up being a GSS341 walbro 255hp. plenty of fuel. I was jumping the gun when assuming I was out of fuel, it just needed more fine tuning on the VE map. not sure what I was thinking at the time, but as usual, I was probably changing three variables at the same time and not keeping track, and making myself "chase my tail" a bit in assuming I had problems that didn't actually exist.

It's all good now. Injector duty cycle is now under 80% since Im spraying alky, and will likely add another meth nozzle and put in about 50% more...which should take the IDC down even further.


ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
07/20/16 09:52 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Interesting, thanks. Good luck Friday.

NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
07/23/16 10:26 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

No luck ! The car started smoking pretty bad again on the way to the track...like "James Bond 007" style smoke screen. I figure I'll still try to make a pass or two, knowing the turbo is likely on it's way out. Ends up I can't pass Tech Inspection, cause my NJ Driver's Lisc expired. hahaha They sent me packing. Drove the car home...smoke got progressively worse and I kept watching oil pressure!....bet I burned nearly 2qt on 15 mile drive home. #418 is sitting in my drive way with a little 3" dia puddle of oil under the muffler tips. Literally oil drilling out of the exhaust.

Will limp it up to the shop and pull the turbo tomorrow possibly. Hopefully no damage to housings and I can get it rebuilt at a reasonable cost.


BOOOO


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
07/28/16 04:38 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Turbo was off , identified (as an FP 3176HTA journal bearing model rated for 59lb/min....it's basically the journal bearing equivalent of the DSM76HTA, just with a T31 / stg3 T3 turbine wheel), looks to be easily rebuildable, and was sent off to a facebook-friend Jeremiah Morrow to be repaired. I gotta ez-out one of the 6 bolts holding the turbine housing to the cartridge that broke ...but otherwise this should be a quick down-time. maybe have the turbo back in little more than a week. While the turbo and radiator are out, Im thinking of doing the ABS delete, moving some underhood clutter, and swapping the OFH for a 90 style with an external oil cooler. will also put the proper water pipe on so I can put water to the heater core.

Hope to get the car to Island before going to the shootout.


transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
07/28/16 05:49 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

heck yeah Nate!! the car really came together fast, the tune looks awesome. shame about the turbo, but better now when you have the opportunity to take care of it and looks like it inspired you to do some other things.

NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
07/28/16 06:45 PM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

yeah...well...the car was smoking since I got it...heavy at first, then it kinda went away a little after removing the pct hoses from intake manifold, then less smoke after swapping to a clean intake manifold. but seems the turbo did not like 30+psi and the smoke got horrendous on friday on the way over to the track.

Ill get it back together asap, and Im itching to go make a pass at the track...cause the meth did wonders for the knock threshold on the tune. I was able to run about 5psi more boost with a normal looking timing curve vs just pumpgas before knock starts up and obviously that was a significant power jump. I think Im going to order up another nozzle holder and a T fitting so I can add in a second injection point and feed in a little more alky. Thinking of possibly doing a solenoid on the larger nozzle and having the DSMlink open the noid on the bigger one at a second point little higher up. like turn on the pump with the FPS output earlier than I currently have it...say start as low as 10psi, and if I use a smaller nozzle with just a check valve (as I have it now) like an M5 i can likely avoid the misfire. Then have the EGR output open the solenoid as a "second stage" of ally with the big M10 or even M14 jet, but have that only come at like 17psi. staggering might give me a little more tuning ability to both flow a lot more ALKY and be more aggressive on the tune still, but avoid the misfires from too much allky down low, while still getting some amount of allky for knock resistance as spool happens.


transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
07/29/16 09:09 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

now that is something i would like to see. a dual stage meth kit ran through link, innovation baby!!! i wish link would make a meth/alky tab so all you needed was a solenoid and it could run off your map sensor, also allowing you to do boost and fuel, + or - by percentage. then you could run the AUTO Power/ECO switch to turn on and off meth and bring the tune back to a straight pump gas tune. the day i see this is the day ill def start to run meth. for now im gonna squeeze every thing i can out of the PTE6152e on the uncut 92 i can get locally.


Nate, would you mind if i asked you a few questions about tuning my personal set-up? Not asking you to tune my car, just asking for some guidance.


NateCrisman
(Fisheye Hoodpins)
07/30/16 09:08 AM
Re: #418/2000 restore & mod thread.

Quoting transparentdsm:

now that is something i would like to see. a dual stage meth kit ran through link, innovation baby!!! i wish link would make a meth/alky tab so all you needed was a solenoid and it could run off your map sensor, also allowing you to do boost and fuel, + or - by percentage. then you could run the AUTO Power/ECO switch to turn on and off meth and bring the tune back to a straight pump gas tune. the day i see this is the day ill def start to run meth. for now im gonna squeeze every thing i can out of the PTE6152e on the uncut 92 i can get locally.


Nate, would you mind if i asked you a few questions about tuning my personal set-up? Not asking you to tune my car, just asking for some guidance.





I really wish Link with 1G ecu had another programmable pulsewidth modulated output (like boost control logic) that you could use for a progressive alky activation. Run a BIG ASS meth nozzle and bring it in smoothly with boost and be able to have rudimentary tuning of meth flow at 500rpm intervals. That would also make a global fuel change work out, cause you can specify a global fuel change, then adjust the meth flow to be consistent with rpm.

honestly, this is basically what all the aftermarket progressive controllers already do, Id just much rather have it on-board and integrated into the datalogs and have the super fine tuning ability bs the controllers that are just two arbitrary knobs labeled start/full that tap into your map sensor. and you have to experimentally figure out what the activation points are.

anyway....I may just slap the M18 single nozzle on my car, wire up the Devil's Own progressive controller that came with the kit, and see if that helps with the stumbling and wet misfires.

As far as the eco switch/pump gas tune....I wouldn't ever bother. I would literally NEVER want to run the car hard on pumpgas only once I have the meth kit installed, Id never touch the button. If the kit failed or I ran out of meth...well...just don't go wot till you fix/refill. I wouldn't waste my time fooling around with the pumpgas only tune knowing Ill never run it. hahaha

It would also be a nice minor addition of DSMlink someday added a basic "cut off the boost control noid" that you could tie to the FPS/EGR/idle switch input. Basically, all the commonly available Failsafe methods integrate with link well, but there is no internal way to "kill the boost" internal to the ecu when your failsafe goes off and have it show on the log. Guess ill just put a relay inbetween one of the boost noid wires to cut out if the failsafe triggers.




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