GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/19/13 08:07 PM
New Owner of 1837/2000

Some of you guys might remember a while back when Anthony (oldman tau) originally put 1837/2000 up for sale, but then decided not to sell it. I told him if the day ever came and he changed his mind, to let me know. Well, last July, Anthony gave me a call. Shortly after, 1837/2000 was mine. After a long wait, I finally got it shipped cross country here to the East Coast. It's nice to have a VR4 in the garage again.





slowpoke
(Member)
10/19/13 09:20 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Beautiful car! I just picked up 1833 last week only a few numbers away. Mine is also summit white!

omertaitalia
(Member +)
10/19/13 09:52 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

congrats, thats a prime example

faqinshiet
(Member +)
10/19/13 10:17 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Beautiful car

89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
10/19/13 10:49 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Beauty!! Love the BBS rims

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
10/20/13 12:22 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Holy shit you got a clean car, Anthony had all the JDM goodies on there that you just inherited. So jealous. =) let me be the first in line if you ever decide to sell this car or sell any parts off it please bett.

LIV4PSI
(dyslexic 1051 )
10/20/13 12:37 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I have always loved this car. It is incredibly clean. It's nice knowing its still in very good hands. And those wheels

It's even my favorite combination, Summit White and non-sunroof.


G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
10/20/13 01:38 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looks real clean. You planning on driving it year round?

oldman_tau
(Member)
10/20/13 02:55 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Im missing my car:-)

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/20/13 11:50 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Thanks for all the kind words guys. I feel pretty lucky to have such a nice example. I wish I could take credit, but it all goes to Anthony, who truly did a great job on this car.

It will get driven for pleasure mostly, but since it arrived it has been hard to stay out from behind the wheel. It runs flawlessly, and I don't want to do anything to take away from that. The car does need some TLC, and I have already begun to do some mild upgrades. To start, the car needs a clutch. I'm going to replace the transmission and whatever other drivetrain components I find that need some love. The car grinds ever so slightly going into 3rd unless you really baby it. If any of you guys have a clutch, flywheel or good working transmission, let me know.

I installed ECMlink V3 last Friday, but other than that I've just been cleaning and assessing. So far so good!

Edit: Clutch seems to be ok.


dsmless
(gay without homosexual tendencies)
10/20/13 12:03 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I have a really good clutchmasters you can have for price of shipping and a beer, pm me

transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
10/20/13 12:04 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

car looks awesome, im glad to see you get back into a VR4 so quickly or is this the reason you sold the other vr4 and eclipse?

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/20/13 02:59 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

No, I would have loved to keep both 1813 and my GST. Selling them came down to logistics really. When I moved to Florida from California, I had to pay to get both 1813 and my GST shipped to Florida. Shipping 2 cars cross country wasn't cheap. On top of that, I purchased 1837 while I was still in Florida. So I had 3 cars in Florida with me, and then another in San Diego, for a grand total of 4 vehicles. To top it all off, I had another cross country move from Florida to Maryland looming ahead, and had to figure out what the hell to do with all of my cars. Paying to ship 3 vehicles was out of the question. End result, 1813 and the GST had to go, and shipping 1837 from California to be put on hold until I arrived in Maryland.

G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
10/20/13 04:22 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting G:

Looks real clean. You planning on driving it year round?




GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/20/13 06:49 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Yeah, when the weather is nice enough.

G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
10/20/13 09:38 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I meant are you planning on driving it in the salt?

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/20/13 09:48 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Not unless they put salt on the roads in nice weather.

LIV4PSI
(dyslexic 1051 )
10/20/13 09:50 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

If you drive it during nice days in the winter, there would still be leftover salt on the roads. Smart ass

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/20/13 09:52 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Not planning on driving it in the salt.

turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
10/21/13 03:38 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Although you and I don't really get along, I can't read through this thread without at least commenting on how nice of a car that is. I've always liked the way Anthony built that thing and took care of it.

G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
10/21/13 06:50 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting LIV4PSI:

If you drive it during nice days in the winter, there would still be leftover salt on the roads. Smart ass




That's what I meant. You could drive it until the first snowfall, then put it away till spring. Plug it into a trickle charger.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/21/13 07:35 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting turbowop:

Although you and I don't really get along, I can't read through this thread without at least commenting on how nice of a car that is. I've always liked the way Anthony built that thing and took care of it.




Thanks, Mark. Anthony did an awesome job getting the car to where it is now, and gave me a great place to start building again.


LIV4PSI
(dyslexic 1051 )
10/21/13 07:59 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

With all the arguing over GVR4 prices lately, any chance you would tell us what you paid? My guess is $10k, on the low side

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/21/13 08:08 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I don't mind saying if Anthony doesn't mind. I'll let him chime in here if that's the case.

P.S. I think you should paint your RS CF hood Summit White, and let me permanently test fit it on 1837


andrew4g63
(GVR4 have DSM stickers all over them, they are DSMs)
10/21/13 09:57 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

That is one nice white beauty!
I love the wheels on it. Makes me jealous.


988
(Member)
10/21/13 11:36 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

nice BBS rim

Street Surgeon
(Professor Street Surgeon)
10/22/13 07:35 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Nice car man!

KiNgMaRtY
(Member +++)
10/22/13 06:50 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Indeed a very extremely nice car!

LIV4PSI
(dyslexic 1051 )
10/23/13 01:30 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting GSTwithPSI:

P.S. I think you should paint your RS CF hood Summit White, and let me permanently test fit it on 1837




Sounds good to me, I would just ask to "test fit" those BBS rims


GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
10/23/13 05:00 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Lots of "Test Fitting" happening around here these days.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/23/13 07:48 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting LIV4PSI:

Quoting GSTwithPSI:

P.S. I think you should paint your RS CF hood Summit White, and let me permanently test fit it on 1837




Sounds good to me, I would just ask to "test fit" those BBS rims




Touchť, sir.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/25/13 07:36 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

So 1837 is JSB already. She looks pretty on the outside, but was hiding some nasty little surprises under all those nice body panels. When the car arrived, I noticed a little rust near the pinch welds behind the front wheel wells. I decided to pull the fenders and get a closer look...


A big part of the issue was all the crap that was stuck in between the fender and body of the car. The whole pile in the photo was IN the fender. Both sides were like that. All that crap was holding moisture and whatever else that gets kicked up by the tires against the body of the car.



Here's the result:






Luckily, the pictures make it look a lot worse than it really is. The rest of the body is rust free. Even in the worst area under the fender, it's pretty much on the surface for the most part. The metal is still really solid, and should clean up good. I think of the builds I've seen here, bobdole really did a great job patching up rust. I decided to use Rust Bullet to refurbish the area as he did. I'll strip off the rust down to metal, and then seal it up using the Rust Bullet. Hopefully I can get the surface prepped this weekend. I had to buy the Rust Bullet online, so can't patch this up completely until it comes in the mail. I have a lot of cleaning up under the hood to do as well, so maybe I can get some of that done while the car is out of comission.



turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
10/25/13 07:59 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

In before G bitches about it being driven in salt. I guess even Cali cars can have some corrosion. Looks pretty good though compared to a lot of cars that get rust in that area. Easily fixable.

iceman69510
(Turn Right Racing)
10/25/13 08:24 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I clean those fender areas a couple times a year.

turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
10/25/13 09:17 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

IT'S BEEN DRIVEN IN LEAVES AND DEBRIS!!!!11

transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
10/25/13 10:37 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

^ ha.

G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
10/25/13 11:02 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Did you run a carfax? Is it originally from CA?

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/26/13 09:59 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Yeah, I think it should be easily fixable. I'm just gald I caught it in time, and want to ensure I take the proper steps to keep any further damage to that area from occurring in the future. I think iceman's advice is golden though, and guys who live in more rural areas with a lot of dirt and leaves on the road should pull their fenders and check that area. Hell, maybe everyone should for that matter.

No, G, I haven't run a carfax. From the history I could find here on the forums, the car spent some time in Utah before Anthony bought it and had it shipped to SoCal. I'm guessing that's where the damage started, and just got worse over time. Anthony didn't know about the rust. None was really visible at a glance, so it was never mentioned when I bought the car. With all the cars being scrapped here lately due to rust, the slightest sign of it makes me quiver. Upon the car's arrival, I saw a little rust, so I wanted to make sure there wasn't a big issue hiding anywhere. Now, I'm glad I did. It's crazy how far the car has come from that original sale add though! Kudos to Anthony for all his work.

The VIN is JA3CX56U5MZ007364 if someone wants to pull a report on it, and shoot it to my email.


Quoting turbowop:

IT'S BEEN DRIVEN IN LEAVES AND DEBRIS!!!!11



Whoa, whoa, don't be letting off that shift key all premature and shit...


G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
10/26/13 09:11 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I was going to say, underneath doesn't look like a cali car. I've purchased older japanese cars from cali that were cleaner than that. Run that carfax.

IncorpoRatedX
(I'm an idiot...)
10/26/13 09:14 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I've purchased older japanese cars from cali that were far worse than that.

oceanside mothafuckaaaaaaaaaa

saltwater is a bitch.


oldman_tau
(Member)
10/26/13 10:33 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting G:

I was going to say, underneath doesn't look like a cali car. I've purchased older japanese cars from cali that were cleaner than that. Run that carfax.





If you read some posts history has been mentioned already.


bobdole
(Old member with new to me VR4 and starting over. Respect your elders kids)
10/26/13 11:26 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

"bobdole really did a great job patching up rust. I decided to use Rust Bullet to refurbish the area as he did"

I just checked the area last week after a year. Still looks great. No signs of rust coming back. Rust Bullet is good stuff.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/27/13 02:39 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

So I stripped the passenger side. The rust was mainly on the surface, but like most rusted surfaces, the rust penetrated a little deeper in some spots more than others. As you can see, the little black spots are the areas I'm talking about. I could get the surface down to a mirror smooth finish and remove all the pits, but it would be at the expense of removing much more metal from the surrounding areas. There's no rust left, even in the pitted areas though. Even after being stripped, the metal is still really solid, and I'd like to keep as much of the integrity as possible by removing as little as possible.

The Rust Bullet is designed specifically to take care of surfaces just like this one, reacting with any tiny remaining rust areas to stop it from reoccurring. That being said, what do you guys who have dealt with rust recommend? Is the surface pictured below prepped good enough? This is my first time repairing rust, and I'd just like a second opinion from some of you guys more experienced in this area. I don't want to leave anything to chance since I'm already in the process of repairing it. In short, I'd like to ensure I'm not doing this again in the near future. Thanks!


Before:



After:




LIV4PSI
(dyslexic 1051 )
10/27/13 03:10 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I have only used POR-15 before, but that definitely looks prepped plenty good enough.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/27/13 08:07 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I finished the driver side. Luckily the metal on the body was really solid, and I didn't have any issues there.

The metal that extends out past the body to hold the fender was in bad shape though; much worse than the passenger side. I had to cut out a small section that was rusted through. After removing most of the rust, the metal lost most of its rigidity, and had to be repaired.

I cut a small piece of replacement metal and welded it in place over the old piece. It turned well enough IMO. Please guys, go easy on my welding. I'm definitely no pro. I was using a small 110V MIG welder (no gas), and ran out of wire 3/4 of the way through the job. I would have liked to make a few more passes. To add to it, the metal was thin and weak by the time it was stripped in some areas near the front, and wasn't in the best shape to weld on. I just needed something strong enough to bolt a fender to that's not rusty weak metal.

The pictures kind of suck because it was dark, and the flash reflects off the metal. I'll try and take some more tomorrow in the daylight. All that's left to do is apply some new seam sealer to the joints, and then seal the metal using the Rust Bullet when is arrives in the mail.

Before:





After:






bobdole
(Old member with new to me VR4 and starting over. Respect your elders kids)
10/27/13 11:30 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looks great. Good job. Mine was a little worse than yours.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/28/13 11:56 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Thanks, Charles. I don't know how many times I've used your build for reference. Thanks for all the great documentation! I have some Metal Blast that I'm going to use to prep the surface before I apply the Rust Bullet. Can you give me the Cliff's Notes version of what you did for prep? Also, what did you top coat the Rust Bullet with on the underside of the car?

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
11/08/13 08:39 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Well, got the car all stripped and cleaned up for paint. The plan is to seal everything with the rust bullet, and then apply a top coat. The Rust Bullet came with some top coat called Black Shell, but it's black (hence the name). All of the areas being painted are hidden under the bumper and such for the most part. Is there any reason why I shouldn't paint what's showing in the pictures black? It would cover pretty much the whole front clip, and wheel wells. I'm planning on getting some Summit White W09 eventually, but I'm thinking the Black Shell top coat will be more durable over the Rust Bullet since the two are made to use with one another. What you guys think?

Here's a few shots before I prepped everything:






Ready for paint:










Gizmovr4
(Member +)
11/08/13 09:14 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Nice work!! I can appreciate all the man hours you have put in !!

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
11/08/13 09:37 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Thanks Nelson! If I can get it looking half as good, and running half as fast as just 1 of your cars I'd be happy.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
12/21/13 09:53 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

The weather in Maryland was beautiful today! Since I got a break from the cold, I've been putting in some work on 1837. It has been down pretty much since I got it, and I'm dying to get it back on the road.

After assessing the rust issue, I decided to correct it using Rust Bullet. I removed all the rust down to bare metal, and then cleaned the surface with another Rust Bullet product called Metal Blast. Metal Blast slightly etches the surface while also removing remaining rust, grease and contaminates. It worked great.

Then, I applied the Rust Bullet grey rust inhibitor over the entire front clip. I applied it using a HVLP gravity spray gun, and ran into a slight issue during application. Rust Bullet is supposed to be ready to spray right out of the can. The problem is, it is really thick. Rust Bullet recommends a 1.7-2.0 fluid tip for application. I was using a 1.7, which I thought would be good, but wasn't quite cutting it. The application wasn't as smooth as I would have liked, so make sure you have a 2.0 fluid tip if you ever plan to spray this stuff and get a real professional looking job. I let the car sit 24 hours, and then coated the wheel wells with BlackShell. It is basically Rust Bullet's black top coat. Despite my inadequate 1.7 tip, it still covered well, and got the job done.

At first, I was just going use the BlackShell to top coat the whole front clip, but then thought it would look much better factory white. In addition, the core support looked horrible, and could stand to be freshened up with a new coat of paint. I decided to order some summit white (WO9) from automotivetouchup.com and give it a try. I ordered a pint of summit white urethane base coat, and a quart of their 2 part urethane clear. Let me just say, for the money, this is pretty good paint. In my experience, pre-reduced ready to spray paint typically sucks. I was really impressed with this stuff though, and to my surprise it matched the rest of the car perfectly. I usually only use PPG products, and I can honestly say this stuff finishes almost just as well. The color and clear both covered really well, and the finish looked great even before buffing/sanding. Bottom line, I'd recommend the paint from automotivetouchup.com to anyone.

Everything I used:



Rust inhibitor applied:













BlackShell Applied:






I made sure to get as much inside the frame rail as possible:



After the W09 base and clear:




The core support was one of the few areas I spent time sanding and smoothing before shooting the base and clear coats. In comparison to the other areas I just shot without much sanding, it looks glassy smooth.






Lastly, I thought I'd put a few shots of the overall progression.

Driver side rust area:





Lower front window support.



Front view of the clip:





Driver side of the clip:





Driver fender well:






Now, I just have to throw everything back together. I feel confident that my rust issues are taken care of, at least in the front of the car. The rear area near the doglegs seem to be rust free. As soon as I get some more time, I'd like to do the same thing to the entire undercarriage, much like Charles (bobdole) did.


G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
12/21/13 11:45 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looks awesome!

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
12/22/13 12:00 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Thanks, G! I know it must look decent if I have the blessing of the official GVR4 rust appraiser

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
12/22/13 02:40 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Way to get rid of that rust Brett!

the_underdog
(Member +)
12/22/13 05:22 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Well done! Thank you for all of the great step-by-step pictures too!

DynastyLCD
(Dissapointing Member)
12/22/13 09:28 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Wow! Awesome job, Brett!

I've wrenched for the better part of 10 years and I would still hesitate to take on a project like that. Congratulations on such an awesome result. You did very well! Now do 881


bobdole
(Old member with new to me VR4 and starting over. Respect your elders kids)
12/22/13 02:35 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looks really good. Great job.

transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
12/24/13 01:45 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Brett, car looks great. wish i was still on the east coast to see this in person.

EHmotorsports
(Capt Fabbin Stabbin)
12/24/13 01:52 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looks great! Keep it up:)

Steve885
(Member)
12/24/13 05:01 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looks good!!!you do great work

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
12/25/13 12:03 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Hey guys, thanks for all the compliments. I am pretty happy with the end result, and am at ease now that I know the car isn't rusting out from beneath me. I got the car all back together yesterday, and took it out for a drive. It was awesome to be back behind the wheel, and the car ran great. Special thanks to Charles for his great write up. I used his thread multiple times for reference, and it helped out a lot.

Also, Tom's recent videos were pretty inspiring, and seeing 1444 go from nasty to nice was great motivation! Now, I need to get under my own hood, and go from this:


To this:

Great work, Tom! It's crazy what some elbow grease and a few rags can do.


PTLourenco
(Junior Member)
12/25/13 02:27 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Awesome job. Super jealous. What wheels are you running?

jogalant
(jobidet)
12/27/13 06:47 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Great work, man. Just great. You know the time-honored belief that when you love your ride it'll give it back to you in spades...... only motorheads understand this. Most women certainly don't. Beautiful job!

tektic
(Senior Member)
12/27/13 07:22 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Oh wow. I did most of this but only to the nose and engine bay. I cringe to think this could be hiding under my moldings.

Looks done for you though !


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
01/13/14 07:22 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

It has been nice the last few days, so I decided to drive the VR4 to work. As I backed the car out of the garage this morning, I noticed a small puddle in the floor. The car doesn't leak at all, so I immediately knew something was wrong. I shut the car down, and jumped out to go investigate. It was definitely oil. I didn't have time to dick with it, so I pulled it back in the garage and drove my other car.

I get home from work, and throw the car up on jack stands. I peek underneath to look for the leak, which I can now see is coming from between the oil filter and sandwich plate. I give the filter a twist and it comes off easy, but not so easy that it should be leaking. I think maybe it is a crappy seal. I grab a new filter off the shelf, and proceed to do an oil change. I go to screw on the new filter, and realize the damn mounting shaft that holds sandwich plate on is loose. I removed the shaft, and put some Loctite on the threads. I reinstalled it and snugged it up trying not to over tighten it. I finished the oil change and went for a test drive. The car didn't leak, and everything is fine again. I just thought I'd share, so maybe some of you guys can go check your oil filters .

I hate the water cooler OFHs. I have a 90 OFH sitting in the garage, and I can't wait to install it. This little fiasco really got me thinking about getting an oil filter clamp. I just read in manikbastrd's thread the same exact thing happened to him, so how common is it for this to happen?

On an unrelated note, I decided to throw a COP setup I had laying around on the car. I noticed a vast improvement in my idle quality. I'm guessing that's a sign my plug wires are probably shitty. The car is running great on the COP though, so I think I'll run it for a while.


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
01/13/14 07:38 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Now that it's loctite'd and properly torqued, it will most likely stay put for a long time. It's been over 20 years of that thing probably having overtightened filters on it. It's bound to come loose at some point. Mine did the same thing back in like '02. Red loctite and proper torque and it's been good ever since.

transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
01/13/14 07:42 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

i added a COP setup on 138 and it did the same thing, car idles so much smoother and with the FIAV block off it really helps in the cold weather.

i don't know about the oil filter thing as i have a forward facing oil filter housing, it's almost impossible to remove the oil filter(4 out of 5 times i have to use a screw driver threw the filter) on both 138 and 1078 and no oil cooler on either car, but they aren't raced or driven all to hard and always turbo timed for 30 second minimum.


coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
01/13/14 07:55 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

definitely something I'll be checking out when it comes time to do an oil change.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
01/13/14 08:13 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting turbowop:

Now that it's loctite'd and properly torqued, it will most likely stay put for a long time. It's been over 20 years of that thing probably having overtightened filters on it. It's bound to come loose at some point. Mine did the same thing back in like '02. Red loctite and proper torque and it's been good ever since.



Thanks, Mark, that's reassuring. I used the Red Loctite as well, so hopefully it is problem free from here on out. I've always had a 90 OFH on all my cars, so this is really my first time dealing with this specific issue.


Quoting transparentdsm:

i added a COP setup on 138 and it did the same thing, car idles so much smoother and with the FIAV block off it really helps in the cold weather.



Yeah, although the COP has some benefits, I still believe the stock ignition system is the superior of the two though. I just think my situation proves my ignition wires were probably worn out.


the_underdog
(Member +)
01/15/14 06:02 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting GSTwithPSI:

Also, Tom's recent videos were pretty inspiring, and seeing 1444 go from nasty to nice was great motivation! Great work, Tom! It's crazy what some elbow grease and a few rags can do.




Thank you for saying that and I'm glad I could help!


GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
01/15/14 07:40 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

dam thats a clean engine bay!

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
01/18/14 02:38 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

So, got my short shifter from JNZ last week and got a chance to install it today. Let me just start by saying the shifter JNZ has put together is PERFECT in every way. Fit and finish are flawless, and it was shipped with everything needed to install.

As far as the install goes, it was plug and play. I took the old stocker out, and the shorty dropped right in. I didn't even have to remove the center console. The only modification I had to make was to the underneath plastic that holds the shifter boot in place. The plastic trim ring impedes the lateral movement of the lower profile pivot assembly. I trimmed away a small section, and everything worked perfectly.

My first impression after the install was amazing. As expected, the throw is significantly shorter, and the shifter just feels tighter all together. I haven't gone for a drive yet, but I expect good things when I take the car out later. The factory shift boot did fit, but I don't really think it looks right. The shifter I got was the standard length GVR4 option, and if the shifter stalk were any shroter, I'm not sure you would be able to still utilize the stock boot. It would also depend on your shift knob as well, as the one I have attaches below the actual threads on the shifter stalk.

Overall an great modification. Thanks to all the guys at JNZ for a great item, and also to Chris (89Mirageman) for rounding up enough parts to make this happen for a few lucky members here on the board.

Here's a side-by-side; stock GVR4 shifter (left) and the JNZ short shifter (right). Notice the nice powder coated finish on the JNZ shifter, as well as the different pivot points:



Here's what I was talking about with the trim ring. You can see the shifter contacting the side:


I trimmed a small area, and the shifter worked great:




Finished product:






EHmotorsports
(Capt Fabbin Stabbin)
01/18/14 03:20 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I'm not putting the shifter down at all. But the reason the fit is so good is because it's a factory 3000gt peice with some bushings made.

DSSA
(Old-Head)
01/20/14 11:43 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Yes, it's based on the 3KGT shifter, but no, not just bushings.

EHmotorsports
(Capt Fabbin Stabbin)
01/20/14 11:50 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I wasn't hear to shit on your Parade but I know what is involved in the process. yes you powder coat and for DSM's you will cut down and weld the shifter rod. but the basics are the basics. Im not saying the shifter is crap because it is the best option on the market and it is priced good for people that do not want to make all the bushings and spacers.

DSSA
(Old-Head)
01/20/14 05:14 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I'm not saying that you are, but it's not a matter of just making bushings and popping them in.

After building several hundred over the years, I think that I have a wee bit of knowledge on them.

It's not a highly complex conversion, but yes, you're over-simplifying it a bit.

Since you've told me what your intentions and reasons for posting are not, maybe you could clarify what they are?


EHmotorsports
(Capt Fabbin Stabbin)
01/20/14 05:27 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I am sorry if you feel I am over simplifying the process but it IS that simple. its not hard. Please don't try to make it seem like you are making rocket fuel when really you're only making a pointy stick. you can try to argue this if you want but I suggest we quit shitting up the OP's thread and you can give me a call or PM me if you would like to further this discussion.

here is a link to what one of the guys here did.
click


DSSA
(Old-Head)
01/21/14 11:28 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I'm still not understanding your intentions for posting what is already common knowledge and posted openly on our website.

As evident in the thread from '09 that you provided, it's not "just a couple of bushings". As for the "pointy stick" that you obviously feel we overcharge for, I wish to subcontract work to you Evan, as obviously you're a man who feels they shouldn't be paid for their time and research.

Here's the breakdown of the killing we make on these things.

--We paid $30/each for the base parts due to the generosity and help of Chris here on the board.
--The OEM bushings used in each are $6
--The adapter bushings run us $4.75/each when we have them cut in bulk (this is not including the stick of Delrin itself)
--The pins that we replace the lower shift pin with costs us $2.10/each
--The shift cable retaining pin costs us $.42/each
--The assembly hardware (nuts/washers/shims) run us $2.78

So in parts *we* spend $50.80 to build each.

It takes me about an hour an 1/2 to build each shifter (including cleaning, blasting, removing old pin/welding (both sides) of new pin, re-blasting the weld area, off-setting the lower for clearance, powder coating, assembling and greasing, and then some times making adjustments to the shimming for the upper).

So, that's $62.80/hour if we're selling the parts at our cost with 0% ROI for the parts. Our shop rate is $90.00/hour.

You've stated that you're not here to "Shit on our parade", yet you're not stating what your purpose is of posting your initial statements. If it's not to be abrasive, then it's because you think we're over-valuing our product (which I've shown in the above to be a highly debatable stance), or because you're enlightening us with your obvious wealth of knowledge on the subject ("just two bushings", which as I said is over simplifying it, and you've proven it by providing your own link to a thread that's been public since '09) and want some sort of recognition? If that's the case, I suggest that you purchase the equipment and supplies, build a better shifter and bring it to market. I not only suggest this, but encourage it as we're pretty much at the end of the line with these shifters--I'd like to see a viable option for the future.

"It should fit well, considering it's just a modified 3KGT shifter".

I suppose our/Shep's/TRE's/Jack's transmissions "Should run well, since they're just modified factory transmissions with other factory parts swapped in".

I invite you to explain the reasoning behind your posts in this thread via PM or publicly in another thread.

Brett, my apologies and thanks for your indulgence--the car looks great!


EHmotorsports
(Capt Fabbin Stabbin)
01/21/14 11:43 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I think you need to take a step back and calm down. like I posted before that this is the best shiftier on the market and it is priced right. I wasn't being sarcastic. And again it is very easy to make a 3kg shifter work in a gvr4 or dsm. that's it! No ulterior motive pal. You didn't reinvent the wheel and if you feel this isn't an easy job then you need to expand your fabricating skill set. entry level at best.

EHmotorsports
(Capt Fabbin Stabbin)
01/21/14 11:51 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

o an on your shop rate. you pay those guys 11-15 an hr you are making plenty don't give me that crap.

DSSA
(Old-Head)
01/21/14 01:07 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting EHmotorsports:

I think you need to take a step back and calm down. like I posted before that this is the best shiftier on the market and it is priced right. I wasn't being sarcastic. And again it is very easy to make a 3kg shifter work in a gvr4 or dsm. that's it! No ulterior motive pal. You didn't reinvent the wheel and if you feel this isn't an easy job then you need to expand your fabricating skill set. entry level at best.




I see, so it was just a dick-waving exhibition for you. Bravo!

Did anyone but you claim that there was someone saying that there was a highly skilled process in making these? You stated that it "was just two bushings". My response was that "No, it's not a complex conversion, but you're over-simplifying it" which was proven.

I bow to your accomplishment in coming into a thread and downplaying a product--"don't build a better product, it's easier to downplay everyone else's". If I had more time in my "processes of making plenty of money" ( I see now that you're a CPA and know my financials as well) I'd pick apart your Facebook brag page. However, I'm comfortable enough with myself to not trouble with it. I simply bow to your omnipotence and bow out.

Good day.


EHmotorsports
(Capt Fabbin Stabbin)
01/21/14 02:54 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I believe you were butt hurt about my comment and then blew this out of hand. You asked me and I replied. Just because you don't like what I said gives you no right to start making personal threats against my " Facebook brag page" as you put it. That page is setup for people that apretiate cars in any form or fashion. And is up to them if they want to follow my posts. If I really wanted to Brag I would post everything I do here and say hey guys look at me!!! I have not and will not ever do that. If my customers want to post something about me they can but I never ask for it. I started working on cars and fabricating because I have a passion for it. I feel it's very sad that you have to resort to personal attacks when it was you that is over complicating this encounter. You don't have to like it but I will always say it like it is. Some like that and others don't. But I will never lie to you.

mitsuturbo
(Banthony )
01/21/14 03:05 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Call the authorities! We've got a code 402, THREADJACK IN PROGRESS!

I made my own out of a 3k shifter, and i like it a lot. I think i made mine a little shorter on the top half than JNZ does. It was a huge pain in the ass, though. It took me a couple of hours to sort it all out. Cutting, grinding, welding, install, test, remove, and so on. Then i finally painted it and clearanced around the shifter boot (inside) so it wouldn't have any interference.

If i didn't already have a welder, there's no way in hell i would have even attempted this. I would have just bought one from JNZ.

JNZ is great.

I hope you guys are done bickering.


EHmotorsports
(Capt Fabbin Stabbin)
01/21/14 03:11 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

No worries I am done voicing my opinions on here.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
02/02/14 01:05 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I swapped in the external oil cooler setup this weekend. It bolted up great, and should take care of the oil filter loosening up. I had to loosen the lower part of the timing cover to get to one of the bolts on the OFH. As I pulled the timing cover away, I found a little surprise...


How long this has been broken is a mystery. Looks to have been chillin under the timing cover for a while though. I got lucky that it didn't take out the timing belt. The tensioners and idler look really old too. All have noticeable play in the bearings. The hydraulic tensioner looks factory old.

I ordered all new stuff from Rockauto. Figured I'd replace all the drive belts while I was at it. It sucks I have to do an unplanned timing belt job, but at least I'll have peace of mind, and know it's done correctly. Having a fresh timing belt is never a bad thing I suppose.


coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
02/02/14 01:18 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

how could you not notice the vibrations?

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
02/02/14 01:28 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

You'd think you could, but the difference is negligible. The rough riding suspension probably masked some of it, and the stock motor mounts probably absorbed much of it as well.

coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
02/02/14 01:44 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Timing on my engine jumped when my previous mechanic did the job wrong, it jumped 3 degrees timing + the oil pump was off 180 degrees... I could definitely feel it.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
02/02/14 02:12 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Yeah, there's a big difference between our scenarios though. In my case, the front balance shaft just wasn't turning. Everything else was in order, including the rear balance shaft which was still in sync. There's probably no more vibration created in this case than there would be by actually doing a BSE.

When you get a balance shaft out of sync, that's a whole different story. In your case, not only is the balance shaft not dampening vibrations by countering the crankshaft, it is amplifying vibrations by being all out of whack. Add 3 degrees of jacked up mechanical timing to your scenario, and there's no doubt anyone would feel it.


coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
02/02/14 02:16 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

gotcha, learn something new every day

G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
02/02/14 02:50 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

"It sucks I have to do an unplanned timing belt job"

How can it be unplanned? You're telling me you were never going to check it? Wtf? I would figure with the let downs of this car not being as rust free as first thought, that the po's mechanical/ service history would be one of the first things you would call in to question. It's apparent the po was more concerned with jdm cosmetic details than actual maintenance and reliability.


coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
02/02/14 03:05 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

that is why I have been spending a lot of $$$ on maintenance and such, my car's history is well documented but it is better to be safe than sorry. Nothing is more satisfying than when your car is in order and running reliably. I know there is plenty still for me to go through though.

At least you found it now and not when your timing belt breaks or a pulley locks up.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
02/02/14 05:51 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting G:

"It sucks I have to do an unplanned timing belt job"

How can it be unplanned? You're telling me you were never going to check it? Wtf? I would figure with the let downs of this car not being as rust free as first thought, that the po's mechanical/ service history would be one of the first things you would call in to question. It's apparent the po was more concerned with jdm cosmetic details than actual maintenance and reliability.




It's unplanned because Anthony (the PO) said the timing belt had been done less than 6K ago. So, aside from pulling the top cover and giving the belt a look, I wasn't going to tear it down and check it anytime soon. I was under the assumption that the balance shaft belt was done when the timing belt was, since I don't know anyone who changes a timing belt without doing the balance shaft belt too. Apparently this wasn't the case, and whoever changed the timing belt didn't do the balance shaft belt. It could have failed when he still owned the car, who knows. This was all according to Anthony, who didn't do the actual work. He gave me the information he knew, and I trusted his word.

As far as let downs go, you don't know what the fuck you are talking about. From what I'm told, Anthony daily drove this car until the day I bought it, so the car is plenty reliable. Cars aren't reliable without maintenance (especially these cars), so you do the math. I wouldn't question anything Anthony says, as he's a trustworthy guy IMO, who has the same reputation here on the forum. Anthony said he didn't know about the rust issue (which really wasn't even an issue), and I believe him since the area was completely hidden by the fender.

Bottom line, Anthony took great care of this car, and has never been dishonest to me. You should hold your tongue and refrain from dragging names through the dirt unless you have some insight on the issue at hand. More concerned with jdm cosmetic details than actual maintenance and reliability??? Really? STFU, GTFO, and stop shitting up my thread with your nonsense G.


G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
02/02/14 09:32 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

You said it yourself ! lol

"The tensioners and idler look really old too. All have noticeable play in the bearings. The hydraulic tensioner looks factory old."

Don't cry if you overpaid or were lied to.

"It's unplanned because Anthony (the PO) said the timing belt had been done less than 6K ago"

Really? You are going to believe that with out any documentation? Receipts? Anything? C'mon bro I know you were born at night, but not last night.


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
02/03/14 02:09 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I know I've had issues in threads with Brett, but goddamn...G is a complete prick. Dude needs to fuck off with his comments in others' threads, IMO.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
02/03/14 11:39 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

You sure are making a lot of ASSumptions there, G. Especially seeing as you donít have a fucking clue what I paid for this car. Second, you donít even know Anthony. Only a complete tool would talk shit about someone they donít know anything about. Especially when that person is a respected member of the forum here: click

Iím not going to sit here and speculate about what was or wasnít replaced by whoever did the timing belt job on the car last. Since that person wasnít Anthony, it doesnít matter anyways. Nobody is pointing fingers but you, and I have no idea why the hell you even care. Nowhere in my post was I ever crying or insinuating I was lied to, so Iím not even sure where you are getting that from.

I donít care who you are, you should never purchase a 20+ year old car and expect everything to be perfect. These cars donít come with a dealer warranty where you can drive back and whine about squeaks and leaks. No matter who had the car last, or what level of work was or wasnít done, you should expect to get your hands dirty, or be prepared to shell out the cash for someone to do it for you. Iím sure Vampid had a pile of receipts for his build, and did you see James Foster crying when the car crankwalked? No, because shit happens. Everyone here probably has a gripe or two about something dumb a PO has done to their car. Itís nice to bitch and cry about it sometimes, but at the end of the day you take shit as it comes, and unless thereís something malicious that a PO has hidden from you, then suck it the fuck up and push on.

The thing is, not once have I bitched or cried about 1837, or Anthony. I've encountered some issues that come with owning a 20 year old car, and that's the extent of it. Truthfully, this is one of the few cars Iíve owned where the PO did a good job modifying the car. Iíll take some old timing components, a busted balance shaft belt, and a little rust repair over hacked wiring and amateur mod jobs any day. Move on G, and quit being a complete douche bag.


G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
02/03/14 03:34 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

It's just me, I can't see taking someones word on previous maintenance without proof. No matter who they are. So imo the t/b work should have been planned anyway and at the top of the list before cosmetic issues. You said it was "unplanned" which is unfathomable to me.


On another note I don't get how people start public threads about their builds etc.......... and then get but hurt when opinions are posted that they don't agree with? You should know that everyone is going to add their 2 cents.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
02/03/14 05:25 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I'm fine with people throwing in their 2 cents. Let recap what your 2 cents is:

-Anthony is full of shit, and cares about JDM mods, not vehicle maintenance. (you don't even know the guy)
-According to you, I overpaid for the car and was lied to. (you have no idea what I even paid for it)
-A receipt means something ( )
-Apparently, you do a full engine tear-down on everything you buy, unless you have a receipt stating something was serviced/replaced/whatever.
-A trustworthy person's word does't mean shit, unless they have a receipt.

Now, maybe some of the things in the list above were't explicitly said, but were certainly implied by the ignorant comments spewing out of your mouth. Receipts don't really mean dick. I wonder what Cyotes did with the receipt he got for the first botched timing belt job that was done on his car? I'd guess he probably wiped his ass with it. Others throwing in their 2 cents is fine, it's just that nobody wants to hear yours.


Quoting turbowop:

Dude (G) needs to fuck off with his comments in others' threads, IMO.



^This


oldman_tau
(Member)
02/03/14 06:03 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000


G,


Iv been using my car daily to work. You didnt know how much work and time iv done to it. You never see me post negative comments on anybody here because i dont know them personally



If i missed something on my car I am not a perfect person like you that know everything.


transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
02/04/14 08:47 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Brett, im glad you found/saw this before something happened.

and as far as the G thing is concerned, i agree, maybe he's going through menopause because he's been really bitchy about things on the forum lately.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
02/11/14 08:07 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

My parts from Rockauto got here today, so I started throwing the car back together. As I was installing the front balance shaft belt, something just didn't feel right. I grabbed the gear, and the whole shaft just felt loose. I decided to pull the pan, and see what was going on.

And the hits just keep on coming...




The passenger side balance shaft bearing spun, and was laying in the pan. The balance shaft itself still spun freely. Somehow, the balance shaft bearing took out the oil squirter on cylinder #3. It was still in place in the condition shown in the photo. It looks like the bearing dropped out, and the crank throw smashed it into the oil squirter. The crank and throw look fine though. It's hard to believe the car was running absolutely prefect with all this shit wrong.

I'm at a loss. Just don't know what to do. I have no idea how long the car has been like this, or the extent of the damage all the metal caused. So guys, got any advice? Do a BSE and just hope for the best? Junk the motor?


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
02/11/14 08:16 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

That sucks. Considering the engine has been running like that for a long time, I'd BSE it and see how far she makes it. Normally I leave the front shaft in place, but with that bearing gone, oil pressure is probably low, so a new bearing will need to be installed 180 out to block the oil hole. You're also going to need to get that squirter back in place. I'm not sure if that's possible with the motor still in the car and all together though? What a pain in the ass...

When I did the BSE to my car in '03, I found balance shaft bearing shavings in the pan as well. I luckily caught mine before anything bad happened like your issues though. But whatever metal shavings made it through my engine (if any) have yet to show any issues after years of abuse, if that makes you feel any better.

It's a damn good thing you didn't just install the belt and take the car out for a spin. Who knows what would happen.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
02/11/14 08:30 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Thanks for the advice, Mark. That actually does make me feel a little better. My main concern is the damage the metal did. Aside form doing a complete tear down, I'll never know the full extent.

My next issue is what to do about the front BS. To my knowledge, I can't remove it with the motor in the car, and I definitely can't leave it as is. I don't understand how the motor didn't fry with the loss of oil pressure due to the missing BS bearing. Hard to believe I got that lucky.

At this point, I don't think I have a choice but to pull the motor, and deal with the front BS. If someone has another idea, hit me, because I really don't want to pull the motor right now. Otherwise, I think that's my only course of action.


EHmotorsports
(Capt Fabbin Stabbin)
02/11/14 08:34 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

If you pull the engine. pull the rod and mains check the bearings. I would also pull the cam caps and make sure no contaminants are on the cam and ground into the caps. i would also try to back flush the turbo and all oil ports. any alan plugs you can remove and clean out the better. then before you put the timing belt on run the pump and prime the engine. perfect world i would recomend taking the entire engine down and full deep clean.

transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
02/11/14 08:37 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

i have pulled them in the car, take all the cross members and motor mounts but the pass tranny mount out and lower the motor on a jack. it should just clear the frame rail with a little bit of work. its a real pain in the ass but you dont have to yank the motor. hardest mount to get is the rear.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
03/03/14 01:42 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I've been waiting on my shop crane to get here in the mail, but with all the crappy weather, shipping got seriously delayed. It showed in the mail yesterday, so I finally got the motor out. Once it was out, I realized the balance shaft taking a shit and forcing me to pull the motor was probably a blessing in disguise. I found a lot of items that needed attention, that I wasn't even aware of.

The major one being the clutch. The car always drove and ran fine, but it was a ticking time bomb waiting to happen. The torsion springs in the clutch hub were so damaged and loose they were jiggling around. It was a Mitsubishi disc and OEM flywheel, so I'm assuming it was all stock.





The transmission has been blah since I got the car. 1-2 and 2-3 shifts were never as smooth as I'd like. After I got the trans out and had a closer look, it appears this box has had a hard life. Some extensive welding has been done on the case, and it has definitely been rebuilt at some point judging by the sealant oozing from between the case halves. GVR4 box number W5M332NQBM.





Here's the replacment


Knock sensor...Looks legit.


As far as the motor goes, I pulled 1 main and 1 rod bearing cap to inspect, and everything looked fine. There wasn't anything embedded in the bearing, and the surface looked clean and polished. I'm going to go ahead and just do the BSE, and drop this motor back in.

Overall, the car just needs some TLC. There's A LOT of cleanup that needs to be done. I ordered about $400 bucks worth of parts, and put up a few WTB ads for the leftover stuff I need. I'll be doing other upgrades as well while everything is apart. I have a bunch of good stuff to throw on the car to improve overall performance and appearance. I'll be replacing gaskets and addressing maintainance items as they come up. I've listed some of the stuff I'll be adding below:

-New OEM knock sensor
-New OEM thermostat
-New stabilizer links
-NGK BPR6ES plugs
-Gates timing hardware and belt
-Gates accessory belts
-Centerforce dual friction organic/carbon composite clutch & pressure plate click
-ACT StreetLite Flywheel
-New OEM TOB
-Rebuilt transmission with welded diff
-New front CV shafts
-New Redline fluids in trans and rear diff
-Catch can setup
-New Oil pump with Mitsubishi stub shaft & BSE
-Magnus sheet metal intake minifold
-Aeromotive A1000 AFPR
-3G lifters
-Mishimoto aluminum fan shroud kit & 12" slim fans
-Walbro 255 fuel pump
-89 underdash


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/05/14 06:35 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

After having to pull the motor, I started thinking about what direction I really wanted to go with the car. There were so many things I wanted to address, but I didn't really want to commit to a complete restomod. I was already balls deep with the motor out of the car, so I figured what the hell. Restomod it is. I'm hoping to get the car done enough to make it to the Shootout, but we'll see how things go. I'm not cutting any corners to make the deadline, so hopefully everything goes smooth.

I was gonna drop the old motor back in, but then thought better of it. Instead, the car is getting the built motor I had in reserve, and I'll be topping it off with my reconditioned head. This way, when it's all said and done, 1837 will get everything she needs, plus some extras I had planned as well. I know we're all picture people here, so I hope you guys don't mind the photo dump. Here's the progress so far...

Old dirty motor pulled:



Reconditioned head, courtsey of Dale Morss Machine (BogusSVO):





Added engnbldr revised lifters:



Short block:
-Machine work by Dale Morss Machine
-Ross 2G 85.5mm 8.3:1 forged aluminum pistons
-1G Rods
-New standard crank
-King rod and main bearings
-Fel-Pro composite head gasket 9627PT
-All new engine gaskets (FelPro)†
-New water pump and timing components (Gates)†
-Gates timing belt†
-New OEM knock sensor
-New oil pump with OEM BSE kit
-2G oil pickup
-ARP head bolts
-ARP main bolts















90% Finished product:







The motor is pretty much ready to drop back in. The issue I have now, is the engine bay looks terrible. I spent about 5 hours today scrubbing away at all the filth and I'm still not happy with the result. I guess I'm just not as awesome at cleaning as Tom is . Even after a good scrub, the white paint has this dingy piss yellow tint to it. I even buffed a small area to see if it could be removed, with no luck. The plan, now, is to prep the bay and give it a new coat of paint. Even though there isn't really any rust to contend with, I figure why not just rust proof it anyways. I'll be doing pretty much the same thing I did with the front clip; RustBullet everything and paint.

Here's some before and after shots of the progress:





























89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
04/05/14 07:09 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

What did you use to clean and or paint the timing covers?

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/05/14 07:45 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I cleaned the covers initially with simple green, and I wiped each piece down with reducer prior to painting. I used a small HVLP detail gun, and some PPG urethane automotive paint I had left over from another project to paint the covers.

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
04/05/14 08:18 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

You and your red blocks Brett haha, lookin good brotha, hope to see this car at the shootout. Engine Is looking good.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/05/14 08:21 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Thanks, Mike. I like use red because leaks show up easily on it, otherwise, I'd paint it black.

coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
04/05/14 08:33 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Shiny. Nice job.

89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
04/05/14 09:55 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting GSTwithPSI:

I cleaned the covers initially with simple green, and I wiped each piece down with reducer prior to painting. I used a small HVLP detail gun, and some PPG urethane automotive paint I had left over from another project to paint the covers.




Cool thanks for the info!! Looks good


transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
04/05/14 09:57 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

sexed the fuck up, i like it. motor looks super clean.

i hope to pull my motor when i do the trans this summer and clean the bay up again and even maybe re-gasket the motor just because its apart.

edit: i also want to repaint my block and all that that goodness and i am super jealous of your longblock.


coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
04/05/14 10:33 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

what turbo you using?

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/06/14 12:45 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Evo III 16G turbo.

pot
(It's a twee shaker----choot him choot him)
04/06/14 01:12 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I don't understand why Mitsu opted to only seal/prime the sheet metal under the battery tray. When I relocated the battery last week I was amazed at how bad the battery acid ate away at the frame rail. Either way, your project is coming along quite nicely. I look forward to more pictures and motivations Devil Dog.

coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
04/06/14 01:29 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Are you going to a bigger turbo later? I plan to run that but it seems you have really gone the distance with your motor for a 16g. My engine is somewhat similar, all OEM rebuild plus BSE and ARP head studs. I don't plan to make more than what a 16g will put out.

EHmotorsports
(Capt Fabbin Stabbin)
04/06/14 02:01 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

It's coming along nicely! Really like how clean it is:)

turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
04/06/14 02:54 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting Pot:

I don't understand why Mitsu opted to only seal/prime the sheet metal under the battery tray. When I relocated the battery last week I was amazed at how bad the battery acid ate away at the frame rail. Either way, your project is coming along quite nicely. I look forward to more pictures and motivations Devil Dog.




So many of us have the battery acid issue under the tray and down the frame rail. It sucks. Mine cleaned up pretty well though, as I'm sure goes for a lot of others as well.

I'm curious if you're going to run a larger turbo as well. It seems installing a Magnus intake manifold is overkill for the turbo you're running. I'm guessing you had it laying around and are installing it now to get it out of the way in preparation for a larger turbo down the road?

BTW, even without fresh paint, the engine bay still looks 100% better. Once the engine and all the stuff that goes under the hood is installed, I bet it would look great. But fresh paint while the motor is out is still a good idea and will look amazing.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/06/14 02:56 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting Pot:

I don't understand why Mitsu opted to only seal/prime the sheet metal under the battery tray. When I relocated the battery last week I was amazed at how bad the battery acid ate away at the frame rail. Either way, your project is coming along quite nicely. I look forward to more pictures and motivations Devil Dog.




Hey, Pot. Thanks for the kind words. Yeah, under the hood cleaned up well, except for the battery region. The battery truly does destroy the body in that area. As you can see, someone sprayed the area with a quick coat of paint as a preventive measure to try and stop the damage. I'll take that particular area down to the metal, and seal it properly with the RustBullet.


Quoting coyotes:

Are you going to a bigger turbo later? I plan to run that but it seems you have really gone the distance with your motor for a 16g. My engine is somewhat similar, all OEM rebuild plus BSE and ARP head studs. I don't plan to make more than what a 16g will put out.




I will eventually upgrade later. I already had most of the parts from my previous build to put this motor together. While I was in Pensacola, I met up with Dale, who offered to do the machine work on the block for a price I couldn't pass up. So, I had this motor built simply because I could. At the time I didn't have any real plan or upgrade path in mind since I wasn't planning to use the setup anytime soon. Since the original motor in 1837 ate the balance shaft bearings, that all changed. I thought it would be better to drop in my spare built motor until I really had time to tear the other one down, and go through everything.

The setup I have now will be ready for whatever upgrades I decide to throw in later. The Ross pistons are still hung on 1G rods, so the motor isn't exactly bullet proof. I'm looking at FP 68HTA, a 20G, or maybe even a FP 3052 in the future. I'm on a pretty tight budget for now, so the big 16G will do in the mean time.


Quoting EHmotorsports :

It's coming along nicely! Really like how clean it is:)



Thanks, Evan!


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/06/14 03:37 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting turbowop:


I'm curious if you're going to run a larger turbo as well. It seems installing a Magnus intake manifold is overkill for the turbo you're running. I'm guessing you had it laying around and are installing it now to get it out of the way in preparation for a larger turbo down the road?





Yeah, Mark, I realize the Magnus manifold is overkill. I'm assuming it will probably even hurt my low end torque with a B16G. I wanted to install it now though, in preparation for upgrades in the future. Swapping the intake in the car is a pain, so I figured now was the best time to throw it on.

The whole reason I just wanted to throw the original motor back in, was because I really didn't have everything I needed to install the built motor with all the supporting mods it truly required. I have been acquiring parts for the build over time, but in no particular order. I was just buying whatever I needed as it came along. Hence, having a Magnus manifold and no turbo to go with it. After thinking more about it, I thought this was as good an opportunity as any to go ahead and install the new setup, and build on it as time and budget allowed. I'll have the core components to have a running setup, but it will by no means be complete or optimal. Hell, I still haven't even sourced a front mount intercooler. I know it defies logic to have a Magnus intake mani, while still running the tiny little stock FMIC. I say this only to reaffirm that I do have a plan for the car in mind, it's just coming together more slowly than I would like. I swear, I'm not haphazardly throwing parts together, I just didn't anticipate throwing this setup in the car anytime soon.


coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
04/06/14 04:04 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I think it looks great, your build is far from cobbled together or without a goal. I'm excited to get my engine together like that.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/06/14 04:33 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Thanks, dude.

turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
04/06/14 09:00 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Word, no worries. I figured it was something as simple as just having it on hand and wanting to install it now rather than later. Should be easier now anyway since you're still running the soft IC piping. Having to modify hard piping down the road to fit the lower placement of the throttle body mounted to a SMIM is way more of a bitch. Now you can fab up hard piping and FMIC with that already in place.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/28/14 06:05 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Decided it was time for a few creature comforts. The 20 year old sound system just wasn't cutting it, especially after I installed the new deck. I found out why. Let's just say the OEM speakers have seen better days:



I used to be big into the car audio scene, but over time, I just feel like I lost interest. Back in the day, I'd run new wiring to each component and all the other BS to get the best sound. Nowadays, I hardly feel like soldering on new connections at the speaker terminals. Not to mention, removing 20 year old door panels is probably one of my least favorite things to do of all time. My intent here was to simply get something in the car that sounded decent, without breaking the bank and causing me too much hassle. Typically, I'm a brand whore when it comes to audio equipment, and only buy Alpine stuff. But, I got a really good deal on a new full set of Kicker DS series coaxial components, so I picked them up for the Galant. Never had a set of Kicker speakers, so hopefully they sound good. Anything over the old stuff should be an improvement, though.



Overall, the car is coming along. I have the engine bay clean, and almost prepped for paint. There's just so much cleaning required, which really sucks up time. I'm hoping to have the engine bay painted by next week so I can start dropping the motor back in. I picked up an EVO 8 FMIC to replace the stocker. The idea being that I can retain most of the OEM piping and have something to hold me over until I can pick up a larger core. I also started relocating the battery to the trunk. Running the 2GA wire wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. BIG thanks to James Foster! He hooked me up with his old trunk battery setup for next to nothing, and it's a REALLY nice kit. If you all don't already know, James is an awesome guy, and I appreciate his generosity.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/10/14 08:56 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I finally got around to painting the engine bay. I spent what seemed like forever cleaning grease and shit from every crack and crevice under the hood. I dropped most of the front subframe as well for a good cleaning and paint. It turned out pretty nice. I snapped a few crappy pics with my phone, but they don't do a very good job showing how nice it turned out. A fresh coat of paint really made a night and day difference and I feel much better about dropping the nice clean motor in a spiffy engine bay. Here's the progression:


Engine Bay:







Front Sub-frame:





Brake booster/Strut tower:





Firewall:




Battery location/passenger frame rail:






I also finished relocating the battery to the trunk. I'm just waiting for my cutoff switch to finish up. BIG, BIG, thanks to James Foster, who hooked me up with all the stuff to get this done!



Got all my drivetrain components cleaned and ready to reinstall. I also pressed in a new bearing for the intermediate axle shaft. The old one felt a little too lose.




The car is coming alone nicely, but I'm crossing my fingers to get it done in time for the shootout. I'm still struggling about what to do about an intercooler setup. Sadly, I'm not in a position to drop a bunch of money on a nice ETS setup, which is really what I want. I picked up a Evo 8 core, but it isn't going to work like I want. I'm open to any suggestions on a budget friendly solution that is an improvement over the stocker.


coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
05/10/14 10:22 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Damn dude that looks really nice. I admit having a black car makes it a lot easier to keep things from looking super gross over white for sure. How did you paint it exactly? I imagine it would be a pain with all the parts you kept in place.

As for intercooler, I dunno. You looking for just a core or a whole kit? I got my core from here: click I'm pretty happy with the one I got. Although, I have only driven my car about 6 miles since I put it on.


transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
05/10/14 11:23 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

very nice, i like what you have done.

turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
05/10/14 11:45 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

If you can find a JDM intercooler core, that would be a simple, cheap solution for something better than the USDM core.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/11/14 05:34 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Thanks for the compliments guys. The painting process was pretty straight forward. I started by cleaning everything really well with Simple Green. After I remove all the grease and grime, I sand with 800/1000/2000. Once everything is smooth, I use reducer to prep/clean the surface before painting. I wet down the floor in the garage to minimize the dust and do a quick wipe with a tack cloth right before spraying.

The first coat I did was the Rust Bullet. I use a cheap Harbor Freight HVLP gun to lay it down. After the Rust Bullet dires, I sand where necessary if needed. After the Rust Bullet, I apply the W09 base coat right on top. I use a Devilbiss GFG-670 Plus for color and clear. I sprayed two coats of color, and 4 coats of clear. I just used some epoxy based spray paint for all the subframe crossmembers.

I pulled everything I could away from the body. I didn't remove the firewall blanket, so everything below the data plate was untouched. Everything that was too much of a pain to remove just got taped off. I was pretty easy to do, it just took forever. Honestly, that's pretty much how I'd sum the whole job up. Easy, and extremely time consuming. Well worth the effort though, IMO. The car looks 110% better than before. It's also a nice feeling knowing the car is completely rust free. All the little problem areas are taken care of at this point.


rebelboost
(Junior Member)
05/13/14 12:07 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Beautiful work! I love the white factory color and how clean the engine bay is becoming. I have had alot of people say great things about the engine bay work you done with 1813. Just like you I am still in the market looking to buy a inter-cooler(short route). Good luck!

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/17/14 06:11 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Dropped in the motor today. Still lots, of work to do, but it's coming along.






Finished the battery relocation, and got the cutoff switch installed.




The JICs on the car have seen better days. The definitely need some attention, but for the life of me I can't get the adjustment rings on the rear coilovers to loosen up. I don't want to bang on them, or do anything that will damage the rings. They are soft aluminum, and even deform a little when I apply a lot of torque with my spanner wrench. I've soaked them in penetrating oil as well, which didn't do anything. Any ideas on how I can get these apart without destroying them?


CutlassJim
(poop load of room)
05/18/14 07:48 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

The collars on my Hotbits are frozen and I Emailed them about it and they said to just cut them off and buy new ones.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/18/14 09:19 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

That's the problem, I don't think I can get new ones. I emailed JIC and they said this coilover is no longer made.

coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
05/18/14 10:33 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Measure the diameter and buy replacements online.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/18/14 01:11 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Is that even possible? Who sells a universal coilover adjuster ring? I was under the impression each coilover was built unique.

coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
05/18/14 01:33 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

click

I have seen others around, just have to search or call. You just have to find right diameter and thread pitch


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/18/14 02:08 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I measured the OD of the rear damper at 1.915 which according to Google is 48.641mm. That appears to be right in the middle of both rings offered by KSPORT. I don't have a metric thread pitch gauge to check the pitch on the dampers. This fucking sucks.



coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
05/18/14 02:22 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I'm amazed jic wouldn't have the part. I would call them up and talk to someone. Just because they don't make the coilover anymore shouldn't mean they don't have parts for rebuild or one from another application won't fit. Many companies design a coilover for many applications but use different mounting brackets to make a specific fit to different vehicles.

But the components themselves on the coilover body are the same.


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
05/18/14 05:42 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I wonder if you could call Mueller to source some. Or RRE.

The newer JIC's use setscrew locking collars, which I'm not a fan of. But I'm sure those would probably work as well.


ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
05/18/14 07:00 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

^ Great idea. They don't do as much JIC as they used to, but i think that is probably your best bet. They still service them right? Wouldn't surprise me if they have a number of these as i imagine this is somewhat common.

Not surprised JIC USA is not very helpful. I went up there a few months ago and chatted with the owner for quite a while. Here's my take. I don't believe they are actually or have ever been an official part of JIC Japan. From what i can tell they have always been a distributor, and now they are even less affiliated than ever. They have been liquidating everything they have left be it suspension, exhaust, brake pads etc to make room for their own product, and at least as far as coilovers are concerned, they aren't selling JIC Japan's product at all.

If you want OEM JIC replacement parts, maybe send a hail mary off to Japan. Otherwise i would ditto most of the above advice. I bet you can find a replacement ring, but it's going to be a bitch determining which kit has the compatible part. So many coilovers, including some of the big Japanese names, all have a lot of very VERY similar design cues. I suspect many outsource to the same place in Taiwan. So if the Mueller thing doesn't work out, maybe just dig around. I would be surprised if you couldn't find one that works.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/18/14 08:12 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Hey guys, thanks for all the suggestions. I emailed Mueller, and inquired about a new set. Keeping my fingers crossed! The thing is, the ones I have on the dampers now are fine, I'm just really worried I'm going to destroy them trying to get them apart. I read a few places that the rings get frozen, and can't be removed at all. The aluminum is so damn soft. Every time I try and apply any torque at all with my spanner wrench, the tab just looks like it's ready to crumble. After I get them apart, I'm planning to remove all the corrosion and reassemble them all nice and clean. Also, I'm going to use something to protect them from the elements this time so I'm not doing the BS in another 6 months. You guys using anything like this? click

turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
05/19/14 12:16 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I had one that was a bugger to loosen up as well. I used a BFH and a flat blade screwdriver to hammer it off. If a few nice, sharp blows don't move it, yer gonna have cut it off probably.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/19/14 11:29 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

So did you just clamp the shock body in a vise or something?

coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
05/19/14 11:37 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Probably while still installed.

I assume you've soaked the he'll out of it in pb blaster or similar? A hammer should bust it loose. If not it may be time for some new coilovers.


ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
05/19/14 12:39 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I don't think i'd let these go. I seem to remember this was essentially the best VR4 specific kit short of the Hotbits. Versus the Teins, these are length adjustable and monotube. Regardless, it is a good kit that can be made into an excellent kit after Mueller gets a hold of them. It would be really awesome to send this kit off to him for a thorough refresh. I understand the financial commitment though. I had the BC's and they are OK for the low entry cost, but i've experienced box stock FLT-A2's on a WRX and the dampening was better. Less rebound oscillation and better dampening at the very top of the stroke!

He mentioned he used penetrating oil a few posts up, and that the soft aluminum collars do not tolerate much force, and to remove them intact will require kids gloves. A hammer may do the trick but will definitely need some finesse on the collar.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/19/14 08:31 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

So I took Mark's advice, got a BFH and a square piece of aluminum stock and gave one of the collars a good smack. It popped loose right away! I guess I was just being too much of a bitch before, all scared of screwing up the rings. Subsequently, I repeated the process on the others and they followed suit popping lose one after another. I got them all apart without breaking anything, which is awesome. Now, I have to figure out the best way to recondition these. The dampers and components look pretty rough overall, but ironically the locking rings look pretty good. You guys have any advice on how to clean the following:

1. There is corrosion and a bit of surface rust on all of the dampers. I hit a spot briefly with a brass wire wheel, and it seemed to clean up good. The thing is, I think there is a coating on the damper, and the wire wheel seems to remove it. How should I deal with these?

2. All the other parts like the lowers, camber plates and rear eyelets look like complete shit. I wish I had a tumbler large enough to put these in, but I don't. No access to a sand blaster either. Ideas on how to get them looking new?

3. Lastly, once I remove all the crap, what should I refinish these with? Paint? Powder coating?










So, this is how they looked when Anthony picked them up: click

Quoting Blown1:

Up for sale is a mint set of E39a specific JIC-Magic FLTA2. They have about 500 miles on them but they look almost brand new over 2k brand new. Spring rates are 8k/6k or if you prefer 450lbs/in and 335lb/in."The JIC FLT-A2 is the flagship coilover system. All FLT-A2 coilovers are designed on US-spec vehicles for US streets, fitment and performance is unmatched. Included in the kits are pillow ball upper mounts with adjustable camber plates(front only). For flexibility, the dampers have 15-way compression and rebound adjustability. The spring rates are of the linear-rate type with independent ride height adjustable lower brackets. This allows adjustment without compromising damper compression or rebound travel. Based off of racing technology, the FLT-A2 is a street performance suspension, customizable for full time track use" These are the real deal not some ebay junk copies so please no low ballers or I can get this coilover for that price thanks in advance and enjoy. I am asking 1K obo plus paypal and shipping unless you want to come pick them up for the 1k obo? Thanks for looking and please pm if you have any other questions....Thanks
Dunstan.....












The ad says the spring rates are 8k/6k or 450lbs/in and 335lb/in. But the springs say 8k and 7k??? Did the PO just not know what he had? Can someone talk to me about what the typical off the shelf spring rates were? Thanks in advance, guys.



turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
05/19/14 08:47 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Wow, those are haggard. I'm glad my method worked though. I ran a long ratchet extension through a lower eyelet to keep it from spinning on my garage floor and gave the collar a whack. It wasn't exactly the proper way, but it worked without fucking anything up. I kept cardboard between the floor and damper so as not to scratch them up.

I lightly used a wire brush to clean mine up, but they had zero corrosion. I would do the same to your threaded bodies, but would go at it harder on the lower brackets and eyelets and them paint them black. I'm actually planning to paint my front lower brackets black because Mueller elongated the upper strut mount holes inward to add negative camber and then welded washers on to keep everything solid once bolted up. He had to grind off the cad plating in those spots to weld so I'm just going to paint the whole bracket. It had some paint on there when I received them, but it looked hokey with just the ground off spots lightly sprayed.

Did you see my thread where I took mine all apart? I suggest also removing the front dampers from their threaded bodies to clean and relube them.


coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
05/19/14 08:56 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Glad you got it apart dude. I'd hit it all with a wire wheel. The threaded bodies you can hit with some WD40 or similar to keep the corrosion away and keep them from seizing up again. On my daily driven 240sx with KTS coils I'd mist the threaded portion with WD40 once or twice a year, seemed to do the trick. The lower mount and other components I'd clean up and paint or powdercoat.

are you just going to put them on or send the dampers in for rebuild?


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/19/14 10:05 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Yeah, Mark, they are pretty rough, which is why I decided to pull them and give them a makeover. I did take a peek at your old thread. How did you remove the adjustment knob? I don't see a clear way to take them off. I see the large nut securing the threaded body, and then a smaller nut at the base of the knob. The knob itself is keyed on top for an allen wrench. How do you get it apart?

The cad plating is the coating I was referring to. I guess at this point, worrying about removing it is moot. I'll just hit all the parts I can with a wire brush, and finish them with some paint. What kind of grease did you use on the dampers?

Thomas, I'm not going to send them out for a rebuild. For one, I don't want to drop the cash, and two, they are functioning just fine. They just need a little TLC. If I just left them on the car as is they'd probably rot apart in a year or two. Kinda the story of my life. Once I really started to dig into the car, I found there were a lot of things that bothered me and that I felt needed to be addressed. Luckily I have the time to go through everything, and give each issue the attention it needs. In the end, it will be nice to have piece of mind, and know everything on the car is in good working order. That being said, 1837 still isn't half the ass pain 1813 was. I'm not sure anyone should buy a 20 year old car and expect not to have to do anything to it. It's all good practice in the end.


coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
05/19/14 10:25 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Yeah Brett good luck with everything. You seem to be a champ so I don't think it will be a problem for you. Sometimes I dislike looking at everyone else's cars because the list of stuff to do to mine is so long, and a lot of people's cars are so well sorted. Makes me think about the cars I had in the mid 2000s and how well set up they would be by now if I stuck with em.

But then again I'd be scared to drive my car anywhere if it looked like mark's.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/24/14 07:23 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I made a bit of progress on the car today. I got my Paulo fiberglass dual gauge pod installed, with Greddy boost and EGT gauges filling the holes. Typically, I like the gauges to match the cluster. Surprisingly though, the white face gauges look pretty good on a white car IMO. At night, they match the green glow perfectly.




I spent the rest of the day (5 hours) trying to get my JICs all cleaned up. It took forever, but they look 100% better than they did. I think it may be time to invest in a sand blasting cabinet. Now that they are all clean, I just need to finish them up with some paint. I was thinking about powder coating, but the turnaround time is a dealbreaker.





So how do you guys adjust your ride height initially? I have always just set the coils to where I think they should be, and then made guess and check adjustments from there. I measure the coilover length from side to side, and measure the ride height from front to back to get the car level. I always hated adjusting the coils, because it takes forever jacking the car up and down a million times. Anyone got the secrets to success for me, or is it a pain in the ass process no matter how you do it?


coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
05/24/14 09:39 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

unlock the collars and rotate the shock body in the lower mount housing with both hands to adjust height, you don't have to remove the coilover fully at the bottom in order to adjust. When on the ground, measure the height of the vehicle from the top of the inside of the fender lip to the ground. Adjust to your liking. That's pretty much the easiest way to do it, and yes it takes forever, but once it's right you won't have to screw with it again. On my S13 I would mark the shock body with a sharpie for my summer and winter heights, that way I wouldn't have to remeasure everything again and fiddle with it for days.

The lower collar on your coilover locks the body to the lower mount housing, the upper collar you can use to set spring preload. Which, if you don't know what it is you might as well leave it alone. I would always add in a little bit to start (hand snug the upper locking collar to the bottom of the spring, then about half to one rotation of the locking collar. and adjust from there. I'd talk to some guys who track their VR4s to see what they are doing and if that matches to what you want out of your car.


ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
05/24/14 11:44 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Nice work on those, big improvement! I had a black faced Greddy boost gauge on the A pillar in 1951. Same green illumination. I was quite pleased with how close of a match it was.

Good base settings for preload and overall length would save some time. I bet that the JIC manual came with these specs...in Japanese, and i'd be hugely surprised if you had it. I found this manual from JIC USA but it's pretty generic. Maybe hit up Mueller? I don't expect him to divulge proprietary info, but maybe they could just hook you up with some good starting measurements. On a length adjustable damper, you will want to be able to measure preload and total length.

Preload i'd probably measure from the hat to the spring perch (note: the perch, as in not the smaller collar that sits under the perch acting as a lock). Then measure total length of the unit. I imagine there are several ways to measure preload and overall length so be sure and get on the same page with whoever gives you specs.

edit: I doubt Mueller has set a lot of these up on gvr4s, so if they hooked you up with info you might need to take your best guess on compensation for gvr4.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/25/14 07:10 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Yeah, I'm no suspension genius, and I doubt I'm going to get any free help from Mueller. I never even got a response about getting some replacement parts from them. JIC says there's no need to preload the spring, so I'll just settle for the straight 8k in front and 7k in the rear. The car isn't really going to see much that would require performance handling aside from an autocross event or something anyways. I've been doing a lot of reading in the realm of suspension setups in regard to spring preload and such. There's so much difference of opinion on the subject that the information is almost conflicting. The one thing that seems to be a constant is the guess and check methodology. Guys will try something and see if it worked, and then learn and adjust further from there. I think I'll play around a bit and see what I like best. I'm looking for streetability above all else, and don't want the car to ride like a fuckin log wagon at the expense of being able to corner a bit better.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/29/14 07:41 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I've been debating how to tackle the 3G master cylinder port mismatch issue. Despite others having good luck simply threading the double flare fitting into the bubble flare port, I just wasn't comfortable doing it. I decided to swap in some -3AN stainless braided brake lines rather than use the stock hardlines. This allowed me to use mismatched fittings on each end of the line to adapt to the double and bubble flares on opposite ends. It ended up working really well, and I'm pretty happy with how it looks also. Hands down, the 3G master and ABS delete do wonders to tidy up the engine bay. I still have to bleed everything, but the brakes are pretty much good to go. Here are the parts required for the swap:

-3AN x 10mm x 1.0 to bubble flare
-3AN x 10mm x 1.0 to inverted flare
20" -3AN Straight to 90į
14" -3AN Straight to Straight











At this point, I'm just trying to work out a solution for an intercooler setup. I should have my coilovers reassembled and reinstalled this weekend. It's getting down to the little things, which is a good feeling.


faqinshiet
(Member +)
05/29/14 07:58 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

That is awesome! I will try to do the same with the 3kgt master! Thanks for posting this!

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/06/14 09:00 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Got the JICs back together. Pretty happy with how they turned out.




Scrubbed down the rear wheel wells and sealed them up with Rust Bullet and BlackShell. I wanted to get everything all cleaned before I reinstalled the coilovers. Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics.









Decided to install the EGT probe in the O2 housing.




I also finished the rewire up front for the battery relocation.



Got the quick release Injector plugs wired in. Thanks Chris!



I also tucked most of the wiring harness and got it routed and connected up. My intercooler is on the way, so I'm hoping to get this finished up soon.



strokin4dr
(fighting them with a large needle)
06/06/14 09:23 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looks great! Thanks for posting a the pics. I'm terrible at remembering to take pics while working on the car.

faqinshiet
(Member +)
06/06/14 10:05 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Amazing work!!

BENE38A
(Slanging Kiwi parts)
06/06/14 11:04 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

nice!, engine bay looks extremely tidy mate.

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
06/07/14 08:12 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Love what you did with the relocation and the smaller fusible link box.

CutlassJim
(poop load of room)
06/07/14 10:56 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

1G throttle body elbow?

strokin4dr
(fighting them with a large needle)
06/07/14 03:51 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I was curious about that too. With the attention to detail seen on just about every other aspect of the car, I figured it had to be a temporary solution.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/07/14 07:06 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

As of now, the 1G TB elbow is going to stay because I'm still utilizing the stock IC pipes.

I went to pull the fuel pump and drop in my Walbro 255 today. Luckily all the little 8mm bolts came loose, but the fuel line didn't go so easily. I twisted the line right off. The other side attached to the car was much better though, and came off just fine. The hanger looks like complete shit, and I'll be on the hunt for a new one. FML.




ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
06/07/14 10:24 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

^^^^

Those JICs sure did come out nice though!!


coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
06/07/14 10:31 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

car looks great, you have put a lot of hard work into it.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/08/14 08:27 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Thanks to everyone for the compliments on the car. I can finally see some light at the end of the tunnel. It seems like every time I think I'm wrapping up though, I find something else that bothers me and needs attention. The latest issue is with my fuel pump. The hanger has seen better days. I'm on a really tight budget right now, so I decided to see what I could do with the pump hanger I already have.

Started with this:



Then turned it into this:





Because the hanger was in such crappy shape, I had to strip the entire thing. That included the hot terminals that go through the hanger body. Basically, you have a small plastic grommet (pictured top) that insulates the brass terminal that goes through the hanger body. Then, they seal up the top of the terminal with epoxy. There's no way to remove this stuff so it can be reused, so it has to be replaced with something.



I'll be using nylon hardware as insulators, and some stainless bolts as terminals. Grabbed some small rubber washers to seal everything up.



Drill a hole in the center for the terminals.




Screw the stainless bolt into the center of the nylon bolt and then cut off the bolt head. It's easier to use a bolt and then cut off the head. Threaded rod would be a pain to thread into the nylon without a bolt head.





Thread the nylon bolts into the pump hanger, and install the rubber washers.



Then install the nylon washers to pull them down with the nylon nuts. Put a set of nuts on each side of the terminals. Lastly, install a new ground post and you're good to go.






I still need to install a -6AN fitting for the pump feed. I have a weld in fitting on the way. After I get it installed, I'll paint the body with Rust Bullet and seal it up. I'll throw my Walbro 255 on the hanger and should be good to go. I'm on the fence about whether I want to drop my fuel tank and recondition it. It looked ok, but maybe I should just be preemptive since I already have everything apart. Feedback and criticism is welcome.


CutlassJim
(poop load of room)
06/08/14 08:58 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Genius!

transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
06/08/14 09:08 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

ugggh i love your car!!!!

BENE38A
(Slanging Kiwi parts)
06/09/14 02:12 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Nice mate, great solution to the problem. How do they get so rusty? Spoiler holes leak in water or something

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/09/14 09:42 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Honestly, I'm not sure how the sending units always get so rusty. My fuel tank looks pretty good in comparison. I think the coating that Mitsubishi puts on the hanger body is just shitty, and makes it susceptible to corrosion. The trunk area isn't leaking, it's just that the top of the fuel tank is exposed to the elements just the same as the undercarriage. The pump access cover only seals the trunk from the elements. It doesn't do anything to keep the pump hanger from the outside.

KiNgMaRtY
(Member +++)
06/09/14 10:17 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

The JIC's came out great all cleaned up. You will be very pleased with them. I have a set on a 2g GSX in the past that were Muellerized.

ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
06/09/14 12:44 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Dude, nice engineering job on that hanger.

Is the current condition of the tank up to your standards?


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/09/14 01:41 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Thanks for the positive feedback, guys. I put up a WTB ad for a new hanger, and then started thinking about my other options. The biggest problem I was facing with was dealing with the terminals going through the pump hanger. I looked around online for ideas and found these:



The problem with these is number one, they are like 10 bucks a piece (and you need 3) and two, they require 1 1/4" hole (too big to insert 3 of them in the pump hanger). I started trying to think of ways and materials I could substitute with, and came up with what you see above. The hardware cost me under $10 bucks at a local Ace Hardware store, so the stuff to do this is readily available for anyone. I hope this helps someone else faced with a similar situation. To finish up, you just need to insert a fitting to hook up the pump. That can be easily accomplished any number of ways; from welding in a new -AN fitting to tapping the hanger and using a bolt in fitting.

David, my fuel tank isn't really up to my standards. The inside is spotless, but the outside has a few little surface rust spots. It's definitely in passable condition, but rusty crap only gets worse over time. If I take care of it now, it will be much easier than dealing with a potential problem down the road. Couple that with the fact that GVR4 fuel tanks in good shape are pretty much impossible to get and I think my only choice is to drop it to recondition the exterior.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/14/14 08:37 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Well, spent the whole day working on the shit bucket. Enjoy!

Welded my -6AN fitting to the sender. It turned out better than I expected, seeing as I'm using a cheap gasless MIG welder. I can't complain though, that thing always seems to get the job it done.



I Sealed it up with Rust Bullet. Now I just need to wait 24 hours before applying the top coat. After that, just need to assemble and drop it back in the tank.


Here's my poopy fuel tank. This was right after I pulled it from the car, but it was in pretty good shape overall. Most of the damage was just surface rust on the exterior. For some reason, the corrosion from the fuel hanger carried over to the tank, and that screwed shit all up. The inside is pristine though, so I ain't even mad.




Here it is after a few beers and some cleaning...





And after a few coats of Rust Bullet.





Mother of God, more parts that look like poop.





Aaaaaaand without the poop.




Suck it, G. The rear of the car is rust free despite the crappy looking fuel tank. I'm still gonna give it the Rust Bullet treatment just like I did the wheel wells, though. I contemplated dropping the rear subframe to restore it, but wasn't man enough to pull the trigger. Maybe another day...





GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/18/14 05:57 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I finished up all the fuel system components over the week. Here's how everything turned out:

Reconditioned hanger and Walbro 255 installed.





Rust proofed fuel tank.





And a new Mitsu OEM filter to finish things off for the fuel system.



Lastly, the new intercooler going on the car.


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
06/19/14 02:16 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Everything is turning out great, dude.

I'm still surprised by the amount of surface rust on a lot of the underside components for this being a Cali car. I mean, I drove 503 for several winters skiing while I owned it as did the previous owners. Not a hint of rust on anything underneath. I mean nothing, not even bolt heads. I wonder if that thing was somewhere else before it's life in California.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/19/14 06:46 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Thanks for the kind words, Mark.

The car spent some time in Utah, and Ohio, if my memory serves me correctly. I had a Carfax report pulled, but for the life of me I can seem to find where I dumped it on my computer. Suffice it to say, it wasn't a Cali car for most of it's life. As of now, the only thing that has a hint of rust left on it are some of the rear subframe components. I contemplated dropping the rear end and redoing everything, but I don't really have the time or money right now. I'd like to find a clean 4 bolt DSM subframe and just do a 1 for 1 swap, eliminating the 4WS and all the other BS. If it were in really crappy shape I'd have no choice, but everything is functioning good without any leaks so I'm going to leave it be. I've torn into the car way deeper than I had ever planned on from the start. I'm satisfied with the restoration up to this point, as I think I have hit all the major areas I felt needed immediate attention. At this point, I need to start getting everything back together if I have any hopes of making it to the shootout.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/21/14 04:08 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Fuel tank bolted up:



Fuel pump bolted in and rewired:



-6 AN pump to feed:



I fired up the fuel pump using the test port under the hood, and no leaks! I made an initial fuel pressure adjustment, and the fuel system should be good to go now. I'm just waiting on some piping and couplers to finish up the intercooler, and then this thing should be up and running.


ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
06/21/14 05:42 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000



jepherz
(Too Clean)
06/22/14 12:11 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Nice work! Frankly, people get way too worked up over a little rust. You handles it nicely.

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
06/22/14 11:50 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

That has to be the cleanest stock tank I have ever seen! Good job man.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/29/14 09:19 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Well, this isn't good...



You have to disassemble the entire hub just to get the lug stud out. I figured this was as good a time as any to replace the wheel bearing. Here's the hub with everything removed; bearing, seals, everything pressed out.





Here's all the new stuff. It's pretty simple, just a bearing, snap ring, and 2 seals.



Aaaaaaand...everything all assembled.





I mounted up my oil cooler.



Got the radiator in.



And, now for the good part...








The core just barely fits behind the bumper.







The car is getting really close to being done. I just have a few more little things to button up. I have a couple days off coming up for the 4th of July, and am hoping to have the car running by the end of next weekend.


coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
06/29/14 09:23 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looks good dude, nice work.

EHmotorsports
(Capt Fabbin Stabbin)
06/29/14 09:23 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I know most of the time pictures don't do things justice and this looks great! I can only Imagine how nice it looks in person.

strokin4dr
(fighting them with a large needle)
06/30/14 03:30 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

What are the big plastic caps on the strut towers?

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/30/14 05:50 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

They are super cool JDM covers

coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
07/01/14 12:28 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I like those fans, my intake pipe is pushed against my fans so it may be time to upgrade.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
07/03/14 09:58 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

The car is really close to being done. I bolted the exhaust back up, and it looks great all painted up. I filled the trans up with MT-90, and the transfer case and rear diff both got new ShockProof.


I also primed the engine using the T00ners method, which worked great. It's super easy, and primed the system all the way up to the head.




All the oil you see in the picture was pumped in through the bottom. I didn't add any oil up top, and you can see the result. The HLAs are nice and oiled.




B16G...




A few shots of the engine bay with the intake installed. It's about 95% complete at this point.






I have to install the plugs, add coolant, and do a few more little things to get the car all buttoned up. Hopefully I can get it running tomorrow .


slugsgomoo
(god hates stupid people)
07/04/14 09:28 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I love how tidy everything is. The engine bay is looking terrific!

that said, stock intercooler hoses & air intake, 16g, good sized front mount and a magnus? I'm confused.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
07/04/14 10:24 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Thanks for the compliments, guys. I really appreciate the positive feedback.

Andrew, I had a bit of a parts conundrum on my hands. I began this build way before I planned to because of issues with that came up with the car. I basically made the call to install the parts that I had while the motor was out, knowing I didn't have all the pieces I truly needed for a well rounded build. I'm making plans to do more upgrades in the future so the setup is more balanced. I think this is a great setup to break in the new motor, though. I'll be upgrading as time goes on and budget allows.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
07/04/14 09:49 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Finished up the car today. I'll be firing it up for the first time tomorrow morning. Hopefully everything goes good, and I can start breaking in the new motor. Fingers crossed...



G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
07/05/14 01:24 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Dang, nice progress. Looking good looking good.

the_underdog
(Member +)
07/06/14 07:39 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Good luck man, your car looks great and I love the progress you've made with it!

ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
07/07/14 09:39 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looks really nice. I was thinking that saying "throw a rod" would be analogous to saying "break a leg" but i feel like given your history that wouldn't really be funny. Anyhow, good work, hope that thing is running as we speak.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
07/07/14 10:12 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

G, Tom, David, thank you.

David, if there's one thing I've learned here, it's you live and learn. Actually, I believe Mark may have taught me that .

I got the car running pretty good, but I ran into a problem with the intercooler pipe that wraps over the manifold. I think it was a bit too close to the manifold. The heat coupled with the pressure was just too much. It blew apart while I was doing some breakin runs. I only got about 16 miles on the car.


I have some kinks to work out. My timing light took a shit, so I couldn't set the base timing. The clutch slave needs to be replaced, as it seem to be weeping a little fluid. I need to do a boost leak test to make sure everything is sealed up tight. Just little stuff overall, which I feel is to be expected when so many changes are made to the setup at one time.

I have a question for guys running the Magnus SMIM, though: Do you have any issues with your shifter cable routing? My shifter cables exit the firewall right under the Magnus manifold. It makes it impossible to route them so they aren't contacting the bottom of the throttle body. The Magnus places the TB about 3 or 4 inches lower than the stock manifold. Anyone else experience this?

Lastly, I've read to do an oil change 20 miles after the first startup. Sound right to you guys?


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
07/08/14 02:38 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

My cables contact the underside of the throttle body as well due to the Magnus. It's a common issue. Anthony (Mitsuturbo) fixed this by installing an ISC from a different car, which is a great idea. It bothered me at first, but after years of it being that way, I don't even worry about it anymore.

ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
07/08/14 09:31 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

~20 miles sounds about right. I think you want to get the oil up to operating temp, call it 180 or 200, and let the temp combined with the circulation get any left over micro grit and crap that didn't make it out during final cleaning/assembly.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
07/08/14 07:28 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting turbowop:

My cables contact the underside of the throttle body as well due to the Magnus. It's a common issue. Anthony (Mitsuturbo) fixed this by installing an ISC from a different car, which is a great idea. It bothered me at first, but after years of it being that way, I don't even worry about it anymore.




My slave cylinder is shit, so I'm getting some notchy shifting because of that for sure. I was concerned that the cables contacting the TB were possibly a contributing factor as well. Do you think that's the case at all?

Quoting ApexHunter:

~20 miles sounds about right. I think you want to get the oil up to operating temp, call it 180 or 200, and let the temp combined with the circulation get any left over micro grit and crap that didn't make it out during final cleaning/assembly.




Thanks, David. I'll change it in a few more miles then.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
07/13/14 09:49 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Just a few small updates. I got the new slave cylinder installed, and the car shifted much better. I still think I need to make some adjustments to get the clutch perfect.

I picked up some new lugs. They look great compared to the old ones.




I also fabbed up a new J Pipe. I think I'm going to heat wrap it. Either that, or I think I'm going to try and fab up a heat shield for the FP exhaust manifold.



I drove the car around a little bit. It seems like it wants to stall every time I come to a stop. I haven't been able to set the base timing yet, so I think that's part of it. But, for you guys running the Magnus manifold, did you have to make a BISS adjustment?


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
07/13/14 10:50 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I can't remember if I had to adjust the BISS or not since it's been so long since I installed my Magnus, but I did have to retune since I was using MAFTpro SD at the time. Probably a good idea to just go through all the basic idle hoops right now anyway.

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
07/13/14 10:53 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Hey Brett JNZtuning makes an FP manifold heat shield. click

coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
07/28/14 01:24 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Brett, did you have to modify your mishimoto fan shroud at all to make it fit to your radiator? How do you like it overall? Thanks

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
07/28/14 11:13 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

With a stock manifold it should fit just fine. I had to make a few minor modifications for it to fit with the FP mainfold. It seems to work great. The car stays cool, and it looks nice.

As far as installing it, I had to make brackets to fit it. I believe the shroud is for a 1G, but I can't remember. You can look around on ExtremePSI's website for the 1G kit; that's where I bought it. It's not exactly plug and play, but pretty close.


89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
07/29/14 02:11 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Are those lugs aluminum?

coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
07/29/14 02:22 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting GSTwithPSI:

With a stock manifold it should fit just fine. I had to make a few minor modifications for it to fit with the FP mainfold. It seems to work great. The car stays cool, and it looks nice.

As far as installing it, I had to make brackets to fit it. I believe the shroud is for a 1G, but I can't remember. You can look around on ExtremePSI's website for the 1G kit; that's where I bought it. It's not exactly plug and play, but pretty close.




Thanks, that's what I was looking at. I just didn't know if it would bolt right in or not.


faqinshiet
(Member +)
07/29/14 06:48 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Yeah I was looking at the dual fan shroud too but I do have a 14in (new) and 12in (used) slim fans so I'll see what I do. That mishimoto shroud looks like its on sale too $185.50 at extreme psi

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
07/29/14 07:28 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

The shroud is for 12" fans. I'm not sure you can fit a 14".

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
07/29/14 09:53 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting 89Patches:

Are those lugs aluminum?




They are made from forged 50BV30 steel, whatever the hell that means...


89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
07/29/14 11:31 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Ahh, I was going to say if they were aluminum throw them in the trash! To many bad experiences with aluminum lugs

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
07/31/14 02:42 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

So, just got back from a 2 week vacation in SoCal. I got to mess with the car a bit today, and got most of the kinks worked out. Turns out my alternator was bad. At first I suspected a bad battery, but the more I though about it, the more I felt I had a charging issue. I swapped it out and the charging system seems to be working great now.

My other issue was a super low idle. I screwed around a bit with the BISS screw in an attempt to get the idle sorted out. I got the car to idle well enough to set the base timing to 5* BTDC. After I got the base timing set, I still wasn't super happy with the idle. I decided to boost leak test the car. I threw on the tester and charged up the system. I could hear a hiss coming from around the throttle body, but for the life of me I couldn't find it. I sprayed soapy water on every fuckin thing, and could not find the leak. Turns out, I think the BISS port on the inside of the throttle body is leaking. If I turn the BISS screw in, the hissing gets quiet and goes away completely when the screw bottomed out. If I turn the BISS out, the hiss gets louder. After looking at a picture of the OEM gasket and talking to prove_it, I'm sure all the ports inside need to be sealed up (the one I believe is causing my issue is circled in green in the pic below), and I don't think the gasket I have installed is doing the job. I ordered a new gasket, and will have it tomorrow. Hopefully that corrects the problem and clears up what little idle issues are left.


I changed the initial break in oil. I didn't see metal chunks or anything crazy when I drained it. After I got the timing set, and figured out the idle thing, I took the car for a drive. I couldn't be happier with how it is running. It feels super strong, although I haven't really been able to get into boost much yet. I'm concentrating on nice steady 3rd gear pulls under light boost and then easing off the throttle nicely into engine braking. I'm at about 30 miles on the brand new motor. I want to get to around 100 miles and do another compression test to see how the motor is breaking in. So far, it doesn't smoke, leak, knock, or anything. Hell, it doesn't even have a lifter tick (apparently 3G lifters work!). I really am pleased with how the car has turned out so far. Knock on wood, I'll get some miles on her and be ready for the Shootout!

I should have the throttle body gasket fixed tomorrow. Aside from that, I have a passenger power window issue to sort out (identified a bad ground somewhere). Otherwise, the car is straight. I have some little finishing touches to take care of, and then gotta get her all cleaned up. I got a clay bar and all the goodies for a thorough detail. I hope to have some updates soon! Here's a crappy little cell phone vid I took today (landscape mode for Street Surgeon ). 1813/2000


BpuVR4
(Rolled by Accord while sauced)
07/31/14 02:59 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

this may sound remedial, but would a new biss screw and o-ring not help with the leak, or is it way past that?

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
07/31/14 03:08 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Yeah. So I made sure to check the BISS O ring for leakage when I did the boost leak test. Prove_it actually suggested that to me in another thread, so I made sure to double check it was good. The O ring itself is fine. By adjusting the screw there's a noticeable a change in pitch of the hiss. I'm fairly confident my TB gasket isn't sealing the port inside. I'll pull it off tomorrow to confirm.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
07/31/14 03:48 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Oh, and I drove the car around enough to notice the welded diff. First impression is; I hate it. The car just feels like it hates me anytime the wheel isn't straight. Every now and then when I'm turning really sharp, I'll hear a little pop from what sounds like the front CV axles. That normal? If I didn't have to pull the trans to swap the diff, that bitch would be out tomorrow. IDK, maybe it just takes some getting used to...

CutlassJim
(poop load of room)
07/31/14 05:13 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Popping axles is normal with a welded diff. It's the sound of them hating life.

coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
07/31/14 05:17 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

try to parallel park it.

turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
07/31/14 08:43 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

You'll get used to it. It's not bad if you don't plan to daily it or parallel park it very often. It should only be noticeable at slow speeds in something like a parking lot environment.

I back my car into my garage whenever I get home from driving it. So I usually back it in as far as I can tell it's not going to hit my shelving behind the car and then push it the rest of the way. But if the front wheels aren't pointed straight when backing it in, good luck pushing it backwards the last few inches. That shit binds up like crazy. I rest easy knowing I won't blow a center diff when launching the car. The slight drawback in driveability in parking lots is worth it to me. Though with just 16g power, I'm not sure that's needed for you.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
07/31/14 10:08 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I guess I'll just roll with the welded diff for a while...poping axles and all. Shit reminds me of one of those old ass wooden ships rolling on the high seas, all creaking and crackin'. It's ironic that the welded diff is stronger, because it makes the car feel like the drivetrain is gonna blow apart at any moment. Whateves. I have a regular diff sitting in my old trans, and can swap it in if I decided I can't hang.

I screwed with the passenger side power window for 2 hours trying to figure out the problem. The window wouldn't go up or down using the driver master switch or the passenger window switch, but the motor and switches checked out fine. There's a break in the ground circuit somewhere in the harness between the driver master switch and the connector that leads into the passenger door. I wasn't about to pull the dash apart to find the break, so I ended up just making a new ground circuit at the passenger door. Now the window works fine from the passenger side, but won't work from the driver side until I repair the break. Eventually, I want to replace the dash in the car because there are a few little imperfections. I figured I'll fix the harness when that day comes.

I put all the little stuff back on, like the wipers, hood hinges and some other BS. I need to figure out what I'm gonna do with the hood. I need a new insulator, because the old one looks like ass. Problem is, I can't find one for a JDM hood, and I don't wanna pay a million dollars for one either. I'm thinking of just painting the underside of the hood if I can't come up with a better solution. It's just sad to have a nice shiny engine bay, while the underside of the hood looks like poop. I feel like it really takes away from the overall appearance since it's such a large area.

So, stuff left to do: Install the new TB gasket tomorrow, make a final idle adjustment, and hope to put a few miles on the car. After that she'll get a thorough detail sometime this weekend if things go as planned.

Last, but certainly not least, I want to thank everyone here on the forum for the help and guidance over the course of this build. The feedback, help and compliments are/have been greatly appreciated. I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel, and it feels great. I can attribute much of what I know and have learned about this platform to the guys here. Guys willing to help however they can...be it sending me parts for damn near free, sourcing stuff I'd never find on my own, or just really taking the time to break shit down so I can understand it. Thanks.

G, you're still a douche







turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
07/31/14 10:23 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

OH look at you all fancy with your foglight grill.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
07/31/14 10:35 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Needed moar lights

coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
07/31/14 10:40 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Car looks great dude. Not sure how I feel about the fog light grill though. lol

89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
07/31/14 11:26 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Just need one of those LED light bars mounted to your roof now And you'll be all set!

turbohf
(anyone even read this?)
07/31/14 11:29 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

tell me more about this power window thing. my right front window does the same. no up or down. my right rear only works if the drivers door is shut. so i assume there is a break at the door, and along with you, i dont want to pull that shit apart. i just jumper it at the switch with my drill battery if i want it up/down...kinda sucks.

strokin4dr
(fighting them with a large needle)
08/01/14 07:39 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quote:

The window wouldn't go up or down using the driver master switch or the passenger window switch, but the motor and switches checked out fine. There's a break in the ground circuit somewhere in the harness between the driver master switch and the connector that leads into the passenger door. I wasn't about to pull the dash apart to find the break, so I ended up just making a new ground circuit at the passenger door. Now the window works fine from the passenger side, but won't work from the driver side until I repair the break.




Mine has the same issue!! I've spent a few hours on diagnosing it. I finally just jumped the ground at the passenger switch to have it working from there. I hate having something on my car not working correctly though. I figured it is most likely a break in the harness at the point of most wear (at the hinge of drivers door). Ive had the door panel off with a volt meter and a probe and still could find the issue. I have 4 master switches too so I know thats not the issue!!

Definitely post an update if you find the issue. I'm sure we aren't the only 3 this has happened to.


GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
08/01/14 08:37 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Car looks great Brett! So jealous of the new grill! Take more pics of how it looks with the hood closed would ya.

turbohf
(anyone even read this?)
08/01/14 11:24 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting strokin4dr:

</font><blockquote><font class="small">Quote:</font><hr/>
The window wouldn't go up or down using the driver master switch or the passenger window switch, but the motor and switches checked out fine. There's a break in the ground circuit somewhere in the harness between the driver master switch and the connector that leads into the passenger door. I wasn't about to pull the dash apart to find the break, so I ended up just making a new ground circuit at the passenger door. Now the window works fine from the passenger side, but won't work from the driver side until I repair the break.




Mine has the same issue!! I've spent a few hours on diagnosing it. I finally just jumped the ground at the passenger switch to have it working from there. I hate having something on my car not working correctly though. I figured it is most likely a break in the harness at the point of most wear (at the hinge of drivers door). Ive had the door panel off with a volt meter and a probe and still could find the issue. I have 4 master switches too so I know thats not the issue!!

Definitely post an update if you find the issue. I'm sure we aren't the only 3 this has happened to.




forgot about that. i have a master and i think a couple spare passengers also.

so jumpered ground? sounds like an easy project for today.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/01/14 09:31 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I'll start by saying I'm really happy with the car!

I got the throttle body gasket swapped out today, and it seemed to clear up my idle issues. The car idles great now. I still hear a hissing inside the manifold, but I'm thinking the Magnus manifold resonates a bit more than the stocker when air bybasses the BISS? IDK, maybe you guys running the Magnus can chime in. I put the front fender liners back in, and finished up all the other little stuff. I retorqued my lugs, and checked all the fluids. No leaks AT ALL. Honestly, after having so many problems with 1813, I almost expected some shit to go wrong. But, so far, so good . All I really need to do now is throw the hood back on after I decided what I'm going to do to the underside.

I got a little bit of time to go drive the car around a bit. I still really fucking hate how the diff feels. I can't believe I was looking forward to having a welded diff. Even on moderate inclines, I don't even have to brake at a stop. I just crank the wheel a few degrees and the car is planted. I can hear the front axles bitching the whole time.

While I was out derpin around in the car, I noticed how people kinda freak out when they see a car without a hood. I just drove around the local roads a few miles from my house, and was getting all kinds of crazy looks from people. Some guy in a riced civic stopped me while I was taking a few pics of the car under a bridge. He asked me if I always drove around without a hood because my motor "looked so expensive" . He seemed nice enough though, so I bullshitted with him for a while, answering tons of questions he had.

Anyways, the car ran great, and I was ecstatic! I'm looking forward to putting some more miles on her. Per the usual, the Marine Corps fucked me over last minute with a 24 hour duty post tomorrow, so I'm not sure if I'll get to detail the car this weekend.

In the mean time, here's a few crappy cell phone pics of the dirty topless girl before I garaged her up for the night










coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
08/01/14 09:40 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looks damn good. I like the fogs now that you have more angles. Haven't seen another setup like it.

Been driving my car around too, feels nice. Here's to not staying JSB forever


ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
08/02/14 01:13 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looks great. Congrats on the success with the new motor.

turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
08/02/14 01:58 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

With the Magnus SMIM you'll definitely notice some more noise when standing there looking at the engine while it's running.

Car looks great.


89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
08/02/14 02:09 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

You started a new trend. I bet you're going to start seeing Honda's with no hoods now.

Now instead of stripping paint to rust body panels you just remove them!


turbohf
(anyone even read this?)
08/02/14 02:57 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I was rocking my civic with no hood first.... of course that was cuz someone stole the OEM hood...

Allangcr7
(Newbie)
08/03/14 04:13 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I think this is the old car of the guy that sold me my galant, was it in the east coast by Florida or something like that?

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/03/14 05:34 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Nope, this car was never in Florida. I bought it in SoCal from Anthony (oldman tau), a member here on the board.

Allangcr7
(Newbie)
08/03/14 06:02 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

yeah it's the same car, got confused on where it went to exactly. You wired him the money for the car and he shipped it out.You paid a pretty penny for it from what he told me. Seen one pic he showed me, but on your pics this car looks better than i imagined.

G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
08/03/14 06:08 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

That socal dream of a rust free car is a mutha. Looks good though!

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/03/14 09:15 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting Allangcr7:

yeah it's the same car, got confused on where it went to exactly. You wired him the money for the car and he shipped it out.You paid a pretty penny for it from what he told me. Seen one pic he showed me, but on your pics this car looks better than i imagined.




I don't think I paid a pretty penny. I paid Anthony $8,200 for the car. Count up the change for the JIC coilovers, BBS wheels and all the JDM bullshit that's on it and I think I got a pretty good deal. There's no doubt IMO that he could have sold the car for more, even with a bit of rust. G may not buy it, but there are plenty of other people who would be willing I'm sure. Hell, I paid $1,100 for 1813 when I bought it and sold it for $5,300. These cars are beginning to be worth something in decent condition. I'm curious as to what 1837 is worth in its current condition?


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/03/14 10:12 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I know I was crying about how exhaust wrap looks like ass and whatever. I suppose I should reconsider my position, as I think wrapping the J-pipe was actually a big improvement aesthetically. I can't believe how good it turned out. I'm actually liking with the way it looks now. I think I like it mostly because I really prefer the look of the specific wrap I got.

So started with this:


Bought some of this:


Wrapped it up like this:


And it looks like this:




I couldn't get a good read on how much it helped. The pipe was still really fuckin hot. You can touch it quickly with your finger, but definitely wouldn't be able to hold it there. It does seem like it is protecting the coupler a bit better though, which is all I wanted to accomplish by wrapping the pipe in the first place. I will say that DEI wrap is some good stuff. It's pretty high quality, and the fibers are super strong. The "Titanium" stuff is also good up to a higher temp than the typical DEI wrap. In addition, you don't have to coat the Titanium stuff with the silicone spray like you do the regular DEI wrap. The titanium wrap comes impregnated with some type of resin that sets when the wrap gets hot. Pretty legit.

I took the car out for a few hours today. SUPER happy with how it is performing. I tweaked the idle a bit, and it's running flawlessly. Still can't get used to the welded diff. I'm seriously considering dropping the trans after the Shootout to swap it out. Other than that, I couldn't be happier with how the car is doing. It feels quick, and I can't wait to get the motor broken in to see what it's capable of.

I took some pictures with a REAL camera today. They turned out way better than the junk ass cell phone pics I've been putting up. The car is still pretty dirty, and will look even better when I get a chance to detail it. I hope nobody is butt hurt because of all the photo dumps in here lately. I'm starting to feel like Mike . I like to upload everything though. I could pick my fav 3 pics or some shit, but I don't know what angles look good to others, so I just post it all. I hope you guys don't mind the photo bombs. If I'm getting to rowdy with all the pics, just tell me to pump the brakes before you guys start making memes of me and shit

PS, I'm in the process of preping the hood for paint, that's why it's not on yet...Well, and because moar JDM fuck points with no hood!























coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
08/03/14 10:26 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

-wrap looks great, did you get it at the parts store? I want to wrap my pipe right there too, it gets really hot. You can wrap my hot pipe any time Brett.

-I love those cali plates. and I had that same personal wheel in my last s13. loved it. and I never noticed your red needles, kinda interesting. you use the red or green tint in your cluster at night?


turbohf
(anyone even read this?)
08/03/14 10:32 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

wow, looks great.

i cant get over the magnus intake manifold and stock intake arm. lol.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/03/14 10:37 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Yeah, funny story about the wrap. I actually got it a Pep Boys. I was looking everywhere online for somewhere to order it without paying out the ass. I stumbled across it on Pep Boys' website where it showed in stock at my local store. I called them up and sure as shit, they had it. It was like $22 bucks for 15 feet. As far as wrapping your hot pipe, IDK man. If Craig found out I was taking potential dudes from him on the .Org, he might get upset. *Waits to see how long it takes for Craig to enter*

I use the green cluster at night. I have a pic of it posted up a million pictures or so back...


coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
08/03/14 10:40 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

as far as posting tons of pictures, who cares. it's your car in your own thread. No one has to click on your thread if they don't want to. look at mine, I'm on page 17 and all i do is post pictures and whine and gripe and ask stupid questions. my car is still pretty much stock. it's mostly just a thread for me to talk to myself.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/03/14 10:49 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting turbohf:

wow, looks great.

i cant get over the magnus intake manifold and stock intake arm. lol.




That's to trick Ja Rule when he pops my hood at race wars, bro.


FlyingEagle
(Doesn't Match Anything)
08/03/14 10:50 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Classy rally styles.



.... meaning, you don't have to wear a helmet on the way to dinner with the wife and kids.



Lookin' good!


turbohf
(anyone even read this?)
08/03/14 11:22 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting coyotes:

as far as posting tons of pictures, who cares. it's your car in your own thread. No one has to click on your thread if they don't want to. look at mine, I'm on page 17 and all i do is post pictures and whine and gripe and ask stupid questions. my car is still pretty much stock. it's mostly just a thread for me to talk to myself.




this is true. sounds like most my build threads. lol.


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
08/04/14 12:47 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Nobody gives a shit if you post eleventeen million pics in your own thread. We gave Mike shit because he kept posting pics of his car in other people's intro threads and such, with the quote "this is my car, in case you haven't seen it yet". Hence the memes.

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
08/04/14 05:03 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Lol it's def a conversation starter haha

coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
08/04/14 10:41 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000




GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
08/05/14 08:12 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Here come the memes! Haha

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
08/05/14 08:21 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Lol




transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
08/06/14 08:47 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

hahahahahahahaha, that is great Mike...


Brett, the car looks amazing, sounds like your really having fun.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/07/14 08:13 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Thanks for all the compliments guys. It's been a long road. I'm finally starting to wrap everything up.

My doglegs were looking pretty rough.



Sanded everything down yesterday, and gave it a W09 basecoat:


Today, I laid down a few coats of clear:


I got the hood all done as well. I forgot to take some before pictures. Suffice it to say, it looks 100% better than it did before.



Spent a few hours ploishing up the heat shield too. It turned out good.




Tomorrow after everything is dry, I'll slap it all together. All day Saturday will be spent detailing the car and putting on the finishing touches before the Shootout. I'm currently at about 100 miles on the new motor. I'm going to try and drive the car all next week so I can make sure it is reliable enough to make the 6 hour trip to Ohio.


89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
08/07/14 10:35 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Lol I don't think I'd ever polish the heat shield for my hood, way too lazy for dat.


BTW Congratulations your car is now a big deal


faqinshiet
(Member +)
08/07/14 10:45 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Oh how are the speakers work out? What do you think of the 4in kickers? Have been thinking about getting a set. Car looks amazing!!

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/08/14 03:35 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting 89Patches:

BTW Congratulations your car is now a big deal




Thanks, dude.




Quoting faqinshiet:

Oh how are the speakers work out? What do you think of the 4in kickers? Have been thinking about getting a set. Car looks amazing!!




For the money, I couldn't be happier with them. Coupled with my Alpine deck, they sound great. I'm not sure how much of the sound quality can be attributed to the deck, but suffice it to say when paired with a decent head unit, the Kicker speakers seem to perform great. The bass response isn't amazing, but that's to be expected from such a small midrange speaker with no amplification. Although, my Alpine deck does peak up to 60W. Overall, I think they are a great value. Thanks for the kind words!


JamesFoster
(Infamous BMX Master)
08/08/14 07:08 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Awesome to see how much work you've put into turning this car around. Seeing it go from a beat car with a bunch of nice JDM stuff, to a properly sorted out well put together car is great to see. I love those wheels too.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/08/14 09:20 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting JamesFoster :

Awesome to see how much work you've put into turning this car around. Seeing it go from a beat car with a bunch of nice JDM stuff, to a properly sorted out well put together car is great to see. I love those wheels too.




Thanks, James. I really appreciate that. It's nice to have other guys here with clean cars like yours showing encouragement and support.

Well guys, here she is. I haven't detailed it yet, but gave it a quick hand wash which was a vast improvement. It's not spotless, but at least it's 100% together and not JSB. It was a good feeling to step back today, and be able to say I've reached point to where I'm really happy with the car overall.
















Aaaaaaaand a little before and after:












I got to drive it around a bit more tonight. I'm at a little over 100 miles on the new motor now. The car is running outstanding. I'm wondering; when should I do my next oil change? I did one at shortly after startup, and then another at about 20 miles.

After I got the car cleaned up a bit, I went for a spin around dusk. I had my low beams on, as well and my fog lights. People kept bright lighting me, so I guess they are a bit too bright for oncoming drivers. I had to shut them down so I wasn't being a dick or blinding other drivers. I'm thinking I could run foggies and not even have to turn on my low beams at all. I meant for them to just be for inclement weather, but I really like the light intensity and brightness they put out. I installed new 55W 2500k H3 fog lamp bulbs in all 4 lights, and they make visibility great at night.

I looks like making it to the Shootout may be a reality! I'll continue to put some more miles on the car toward breaking in the motor. Other than that, there's not much left to do but enjoy the car. It feels pretty good to say that. It's a foreign feeling not to have a list of shit to do to the car. It's even more strange not to be JSB.


badams
(Bungie Battery)
08/08/14 10:21 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Nice car to have a stocky intake.... why don't you upgrade??? Looking good overall!

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
08/09/14 07:49 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Congrats Brett, finally you'll be coming to the shootout. Did you get my text the other day?

coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
08/09/14 10:39 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

move over 1051

bobdole
(Old member with new to me VR4 and starting over. Respect your elders kids)
08/09/14 07:29 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Very very nice car. Great job.

turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
08/09/14 10:52 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting coyotes:

move over 1051




It's comments like this that make people think I'm some kind of conceited asshole about my car, yet I'm not the one who makes them. I can't stand that shit. Brett's car is exceptional and he's done an amazing job of cleaning it up. I'm glad to see it in good hands and am excited to see what comes of it I the future. This isn't some competition to have the most amazing gvr4. It's just a community with sweet, rare, rally heritage cars.


coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
08/09/14 11:18 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Mark you know that I am super serious

turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
08/09/14 11:34 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Sorry, but I still find it annoying that people feel the need to bring up my car in others' build threads.

89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
08/09/14 11:58 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting turbowop:

This isn't some competition to have the most amazing gvr4.




Now if only more people thought this....


Anyway these new pic's really show how far your car has come in a relatively short time! This thread is a great motivator for those who are JSB Also I swear gold/bronze rims on these cars really set them off


BENE38A
(Slanging Kiwi parts)
08/10/14 02:17 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Car has come out great mate, I have taken alot in on how you approached the engine bay and is on my to do list whilst the motor is out. enjoy it.

slugsgomoo
(god hates stupid people)
08/10/14 03:47 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting 89Patches:

Quoting turbowop:

This isn't some competition to have the most amazing gvr4.




Now if only more people thought this....





Agreed to a point, though at least for me, the examples of cars like Brett's, Mark's, Nelson's, James Foster, #3 and others have definitely pushed me to work harder to really make the most of what the car can be. I don't know that competing to be the most amazing is the right term, but I definitely think there is a top tier of gvr4 that is worth aspiring to. To some extent, trying to better the standard of excellence simply pushes the standard, and I think that as a community we all benefit from that. I don't want to look at my car in 20 years and have it be the way it is today, I'd like it to be cleaner, nicer, etc.


the_underdog
(Member +)
08/10/14 05:00 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Well done! I can't wait to see your car at the shootout!

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/10/14 09:27 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Thanks again, guys, for all the positive feedback. I really do appreciate it.

I don't post here to be part of a competition. Honestly, this thread is more for me than anyone. I post tons of crap up here so I can look back and see what I've accomplished, and also remember how and when I did it. For me personally, this is more of a easy-to-access reference document than anything. I don't know how many times I've done something to 1813 or 1837, and then forgot how to do it down the road.

That being said, I do like to share my accomplishments with you guys here. I really appreciate the fact that people think enough of my car (and the work I've done to it) to use it as inspiration for their own builds. I appreciate that because I know other build threads have inspired me, and have given me ideas influencing things I've done to the car. I'm not trying to be better than the next guy, but just like Mark always says; I'm just trying to do my own thing and some people like it...some people don't. I'm not trying to tailor my build to the crowd just to get a prize at the end.

Coyotes didn't mean anything by what he said. He was just being clever as usual. I can understand Mark not wanting to be brought in other people's build threads, though. I believe his reason for this is probably because he doesn't want the thread sidetracked with every member's opinion about whose car is better than 1051. He's been here a long time, and has had to deal with shit like that consistently over the years, and, I can imagine it gets old after a while. I know, because when I was a noob here, I threw it in his face myself. In retrospect, I had it coming, and am probably better off for it now. Sometimes, you don't want to hear people tell you you're all fucked up. The problem is, that's usually when you need to hear it the most, regardless of how much you think you're in the right.

I'm envious of Mark/1051 in the sense that he is happy with 1051 in its current state. He has all the major pieces in place, and is at a point where he can enjoy the car for what it is. There probably aren't many guys here like that. Most of us are waiting for that next big turbo upgrade or whatever...always on the quest for more horsepower. I'm in that boat right now, and while I am definitely happy with my car, it's nowhere near where I want to be. I've had to make compromises on my build due to time and money constraints. I still have tons of things I still want to do to the car, and it is years away from where I'd like it to be.


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
08/10/14 12:49 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Thanks, Brett. I'm glad you understand where I'm coming from. And even my car isn't done yet. Like most people, other hobbies and budget constraints/life have kept me from being able to do everything I want to my car. It seems to come in spurts where I'll do a bunch of stuff one year and then a couple years of nothing go by. I have several thousand dollars worth of ideas for my car floating around in my head right now. Eventually, I'll get to it all.

I need to take some of your ideas on cleaning up the upper firewall. That looks really clean with all the wiring and other shit hidden away.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/15/14 11:09 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Well, no Shootout this year. I still have some bugs to work out of the car before I trust it to make a 1,000 mile trip. The weekend won't be a complete waste though. I can start doing some of the stuff I was holding off on until I returned from the shootout. I also got some other stuff done to the car in preparation for the Shootout, which I probably would have put off. Now, it's done and I don't have to worry about it. One of things was an alignment.

I took the car to a local shop, and they did a really good job getting things set how I wanted them. The tech doing the alignment actually listened to what I wanted done, and didn't act like I was some idiot blabbing on about nothing. I asked the tech to keep me at -1* on all four corners. Here's how it turned out:


I replaced the radiator with a Spectra OEM replacement unit. I wish I would have waited out for a Koyo replacement, but I was trying to make it to the Shootout, and this is all I could get overnight. I fits good, and seems like a well made part overall.


I also changed the oil again. This will be oil change #3 since the new motor went in. Lastly, I got a chance to run a claybar over the car. I picked up a kit from the parts store, which seemed to work really well. Now I just need to give the paint a good polish and it should look like new.




So, things to do in the near future.

-Install my HKS 272s

-Pull the transmission, and get rid of the welded diff. I FUCKING HATE THE WELDED DIFF. As soon as I get a chance, the trans is coming out and that diff is going in the trash. For you guys who drive with the welded diff, you are better men than me. I can't stand the feel of binding axles and popping CV joints. The welded diff absolutely ruins the drivability of the car IMO. By far, putting in a welded diff is the most regrettable upgrade I've ever done to ANY car. I would highly NOT recommend one.

-Pay off my 3KGT brakes and get them on the car.

-Throw in my Evo 590's

-Install my 2G MAF and intake pipe.

-Pick up a wideband and install it.

-Pick up some 5mm spacers for the rear of the car and install them.

I'll start my to-do list off with the HKS 272s I have on the shelf waiting to go in. I'll probably to the quick swap trick that Tom used and see if I can sneak these in the tomorrow.


transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
08/25/14 08:44 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Just saw your members showcase, i love this freaking car. might be my favorite VR4 as of now. its such a well rounded setup and it looks so freaking good. you have put so much work into making this thing what it is, time to be proud and show this bad girl off. Way to go Brett !!!!

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/25/14 05:47 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Hey, Shane, thanks so much for the kind words. I drove it to work today about 80 miles round trip. It was so nice just to get behind the wheel and enjoy the car. I don't care what anyone says, JSBallin is overrated.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/25/14 08:01 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Can't. Wait.


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
08/25/14 08:27 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Is that a 4-spider? I was tempted to swap to one, but the welded diff just doesn't bother me that bad, and I don't have to worry about breaking it at the track. I guess I've just gotten used to it.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/25/14 09:17 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I'm not sure if it's a 4 spider or not. I pulled it out of my spare transmission today. I'll take a look at it and report back.

transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
08/25/14 09:19 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting turbowop:

Is that a 4-spider? I was tempted to swap to one, but the welded diff just doesn't bother me that bad, and I don't have to worry about breaking it at the track. I guess I've just gotten used to it.





im a fan. its really only a problem in tight parking spots, but if you have PS it really isn't anything. it was a little rough in the RS AWD bc no PS, but after a week i could do it one handed.

Brett your more then welcome. i wish and still hope one day we can both go to the shootout and id love the see your car in person.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/25/14 09:29 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Yeah, I hate the welded diff. The car pops and shit every time I'm making low speed turns. The tires chirp when making tight low speed turns. After a tight turn, you have to roll 10 ft or so in a straight line before the driveline unbinds. It's also hard on my clutch when trying to maneuver into a parking space. I have to slip the clutch enough to keep from stalling the car, while still giving it enough release to move the car over the drivetrain binding. It's horrible, and just ruins the drivability of the car IMO. I can't wait swap it out.

transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
08/25/14 09:36 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

fair enough, each person is different. also there is a good chance you have to park in way different areas then i do. i have basically all parking lots and driveways... id hate it in a parking garage or driving through a downtown city making tons of turns. i live in the mountains and drive a ot of mountain passes and highways. once and a while i go to reno or carson, but it didn't bother me much when i had my RS AWD

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
09/10/14 10:41 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Well, just rolled 1,500 miles on the car/new motor. I had a few little bugs to work out ( click ), but now that I've got most of the kinks out, the car has really performed well. My temps look good, my logs look good, and overall I'm really happy with the build at this point. I have more upgrades coming up soon, but I'm just planning to enjoy the car while the weather gets nice as fall sets in, and before it has to go away for the winter.

Here's a quick vid of the lumpy idle with the HKS 272s installed: click

Looking back on both of my builds, I can't help but think how much more difficult both endeveors would have been without the support of the galantvr4.org community. I appreciate ALL the members here who have helped me over time, and even some of those who may have said shit I may not have wanted to hear at the time. I want to express my thanks to everyone here, and especially to a few individuals:

pot: Can't say enough good things about him. He's sent parts and encouragement my way on numerous occasions asking for nothing in return, even when I was a brand new member. Thanks, Pot.

89Mirageman: Chris has hooked me up with tons of parts for probably less than what he had invested. I can always count on him for a deal, and to deliver every time. Thanks, Chris.

dsmless: A member who truly defines the phrase "pay it forward". He's gone out of his way to take stuff from his parts pile and let me add it to mine for nothing. Thanks, dude.

throughfaith323: Worked with me when money was tight, and gave me his trust simply because I asked. Thanks, Ed.

coyotes: This guy is just a bro with a good heart. He's a new guy and a promising new addition to the community. Thanks, Thomas.

jnava: Juan, the owner of JuanMart who has everything, and has helped tons of members here...including me. He's been a great help, personally helping me troubleshoot issues and figure out solutions. Thanks, Juan.

luis84one: Luis took money from his own pocket to make sure parts arrived at my door when I needed them in a hurry. He asked for nothing back, and I appreciate his generosity. Thanks, Luis

Hertz: For running this joint on his own dime and giving us all a place to bitch, moan, learn, sell our crap and waste our lives away on the interwebs. Thanks, Ryan.

turbowop: And last but not least, Mark. Yeah, we've had our differences, but you'd be hard pressed to find a member who's as consistent and knowledgeable as he is. Differences aside, he has helped me and countless others here on numerous occasions. Thanks, Mark.


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
09/10/14 11:28 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000



You're welcome, Brett. You did a great job restoring that car.


coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
09/11/14 01:31 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

awww, we <3 you too brett




pot
(It's a twee shaker----choot him choot him)
09/11/14 04:34 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting turbowop:



You're welcome, Brett. You did a great job restoring that car.




Likewise Devil Dog. Your comments and beliefs epitomize what I envision being a member of this forum represents. Companionship, grabass, and an affinity for smoking muscle cars and those who buy their builds are what draw us close. You have come incredibly far with this build compared to your first and I am very impressed. I look forward to seeing where you take 1837.


89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
09/11/14 09:58 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Ahh look at you sucking up How adorable

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
09/21/14 05:43 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Well, got some stuff in the mail. As always, I have lotz of pictures for you guys...

Crusty 3KGT VR4 brake setup!!! They are in great shape, just need a lil love per the usual







Garfield aluminum brackets.


12.5" Rotors drilled/vented.



And a shot of the new rotors making the old ones look silly


Calipers stripped of all poop.


Rotors are now poop free as well.


Garfield brackets free of poop and bolted up. Of note, the dust shield has to be trimmed back a bit.


The calipers got a fresh coat of ricer red. The rotors got a coat of paint as well to keep the hats from rusting.



Old brakes.


New brakes.






I got the brakes all put back together and grabbed the wheel to throw it back on the car. Of course, it doesn't clear the fucking brake caliper. FML.

I'm going to need a 5mm spacer or so to clear the brakes. I thought a +39 wheel would clear no problem, but was sadly mistaken. Anyone know if a 5mm spacer would require extended lug studs?


coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
09/21/14 06:04 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

You can fit up to a 7mm spacer on the stock lug studs I think. you need to leave 7-8 threads left in order to bolt your wheels on safely. You could also get bolt on wheel spacers which work fine, but you can't go thinner than 1" in order to fit the nuts. I'd verify how much space you need to clear the wheels before you buy your spacers.

Looks nice otherwise. Weren't these things for sale for a really long time?


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
09/21/14 07:17 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I've always heard as a general rule of thumb the lug must be able to thread onto the stud equal to or greater than the diameter of the lug itself. I'd rather err on the side of caution, though. At the same time, I don't want to press the front hubs apart to replace the lugs. The rears wouldn't be too bad, but it's work I really don't want to do if I can avoid it. Honestly, I think I'd just buy new wheels before I did all that BS.

Hopefully someone with some experience running spacers can chime in.

As for the brakes, they were up for sale for a day? If they were for sale previous to this thread, I'm not aware of it. click


coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
09/21/14 07:21 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I have run spacers, you can't do more than a 7mm spacer on standard size lugs, it needs to have 7-8 threads left to thread the lugnut on.

Bolt on spacers work well too, but depends on how much you can space them out before the wheels stick out your fenders.

I wouldn't run longer wheel studs.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
09/21/14 08:15 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Sorry, dude. I didn't mean to come across like you didn't know what you were talking about. I just meant someone chime in who was actually running spacers on their Galant. I know there's a few guys here who have/are, I just can't remember who.

When I had 1813, I bought a set of H&R 5mm spacers and they came with a set of lug studs


ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
09/22/14 09:41 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

New parts look great! I think 5's are OK but i wouldn't be feeling really good about going any bigger on the stock studs.

bobdole
(Old member with new to me VR4 and starting over. Respect your elders kids)
09/22/14 11:50 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Normally 5mm are ok with stock studs. Anything wider than 5mm I would highly recommend running the extended studs. Also make sure the spacers are hub centric also. Ichiba and H&R make hub centric spacers for the Galant 4 lug.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
09/22/14 06:51 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Well, I mocked up a 5mm spacer using some washers. 5mm still doesn't let the wheels clear the brakes. It looks like I'll need closer to 10 or 15mm. Looks like my options are:

-Get new set of wheels. I'm currently still 4 lug though, and my wheel choices kind of suck. Plus, I like the wheels I have.

-Swap in extended lugs and run a thicker spacer. Tons of work, and I'm not sure how much further I can space out the wheel at the ride height I'm at while maintaining fender clearance. I could bump the ride height up, but then I'll be making another trip back to the alignment shop, which I'd like to avoid if possible.

-Swap the stock brakes back in? Nahhhh.

Am I missing anything? Thoughts?


coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
09/22/14 07:00 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

How sunken in are your wheels from the fender lips? You can space them out minimum an inch using bolt on wheel spacers (that's as narrow as they come), then add negative camber so the wheels don't rub your fenders. I would roll your fender lips for additional clearance if not done already.

Looking at an image of your car I would say you have an inch of space to push your wheels out, but you will need to add camber from what you have in this image. I'm not talking hellastanced but enough to fit those wheels. Or you will have to get wheels with a lower offset.



coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
09/22/14 07:03 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

click

like these, I just did a quick search but you can find the right hub bore size for mitsubishi. Or they can be custom made for you. People use these all the time in motorsport, drifting, etc.. so I wouldn't worry about them breaking or anything like that if installed correctly. People are scared of these but many many many cars run them. I have as well and never had a problem.


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
09/22/14 07:30 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I see a lot of room for spacers and camber if needed.

As far as spacers go, I use H&R 5mm on my car all around. Not because the wheels don't clear the brakes, but because I went from my last wheels being a +35 offset to the current LM's being a +40 and I wanted the same "stance". I plan to have my wheel faces reverse mounted this winter and the pads shaved a hair so that I can remove the spacers and have the same stance but with a deeper dish on the wheels also. And to be refinished.

The H&R 5mm spacers come with 5mm longer studs to be pressed in. The problem is that the factory studs on the front of the car are already 5mm longer than the rears. And H&R only made their extended studs 5mm longer than the rears. So the fronts end up being the fucking exact same length. I found this out after having a machine shop press in new wheel bearings and throw the new "extended" studs in for me while they were in there. What a waste.

I feel like there is plenty of meat for the lugs on the rears, but I wish there were more up front. The car has survived a lot of driving and several autocross runs with the spacers though. No issues so far.


89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
09/22/14 08:41 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Putting in ARP wheel studs should only take an hour or two depending how fast you work. The time consuming part it just taking the brakes apart. I have done this twice with my car.

Pulling in the studs in take maybe 10 mins to do all 20 (Or 16 in your case) No need to take your hubs apart to take the to get pressed in, That's just a waste of time and money. A breaker bar, jack stand, some oil for the stud, some washers (I used 6 bolt head stud washers 2 or 3 stacked)a hammer and a wheel nut. Like I said takes all of 10 minutes to pull in all the studs.

This is how I did my Galant, Mr2, my old Jeep and countless others I have done this for



BTW If you have the ABS rings on the front still this method won't work on the car!


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
09/22/14 11:46 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

ABS is the reason I had a machine shop do mine. I retained it when I did the 5-lug swap. The rear studs I did myself.

Jesus_Negros
(Unempowered ADMIN)
09/23/14 01:46 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Just get some custom made bolt on spacers

89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
09/23/14 12:00 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Just realized you still have the ABS rings on the front. SO needless to say you need to press the hub out of the knuckles to do the studs..

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
09/23/14 09:18 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Thanks for all the suggestions, guys.

I played around with getting the spacing right. It turns out I definitely need a 10mm spacer in front. So, in the rear I'd like to do 15mm to bring all 4 corners flush. I'm just trying to decided what spacer and course of action is best at this point.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
09/24/14 03:38 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Ok, what do you guys think about these? Is Ichiba a decent/quality brand? I wanted to run a set of H&R spacers, but H&R doesn't make a 4 lug 10mm spacer.

10mm Wheel Spacers

15mm Wheel Spacers


coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
09/24/14 03:40 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Ichiba is good, I used their 5 lug hubs on my 240sx, they are a known quality japanese brand.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
09/24/14 03:53 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting coyotes:

Ichiba is good, I used their 5 lug hubs on my 240sx, they are a known quality japanese brand.



Thanks, dude.

Quoting 89Patches:

Putting in ARP wheel studs should only take an hour or two depending how fast you work. The time consuming part it just taking the brakes apart. I have done this twice with my car.

Pulling in the studs in take maybe 10 mins to do all 20 (Or 16 in your case) No need to take your hubs apart to take the to get pressed in, That's just a waste of time and money. A breaker bar, jack stand, some oil for the stud, some washers (I used 6 bolt head stud washers 2 or 3 stacked)a hammer and a wheel nut. Like I said takes all of 10 minutes to pull in all the studs.

This is how I did my Galant, Mr2, my old Jeep and countless others I have done this for



BTW If you have the ABS rings on the front still this method won't work on the car!




Can you elaborate a little more? How do the studs clear the dust shields?


prove_it
(my racist jokes aren't actually funny)
09/24/14 04:22 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

With those thicknesses, you can pick up the bolt on spacers and avoid new studs.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
09/24/14 04:36 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I'd love to go that route, but I couldn't find a decent set that seemed quality built. You got any suggestions?

coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
09/24/14 04:46 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

click

I used these for my volvo 940, put mercedes 5x120 wheels on my 5x108 volvo.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
09/24/14 05:19 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Those look nice, but the bolt on spacers only come in 19mm or above.

coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
09/24/14 05:38 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

that is as narrow as you can get bolt on type due to the width of the nuts that bolt the spacer to your hub.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
09/24/14 06:09 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Well, they have these also. But they are a bit pricy: click

Pretty sure they are the same spacers pictured here:


coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
09/24/14 06:15 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

that's a lot of money to spend for 2 spacers. I'd just get the bolt on spacers and call it good. You aren't gonna hurt anything by going a little bit wider.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
09/24/14 09:22 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

So, I'm actually leaning toward picking these up a set of these instead:

10mm Bolt On Spacer

15mm Bolt On Spacer


89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
09/24/14 09:42 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Wow those are expensive wheel spacers For those prices you may as well install extended studs. I run 10mm spacers on the front of my MR2 and they only cost me $30 from Allstar performance, ARP extended studs (Front only) were $80 and open end wheel nuts were $15 for 25.

You over thinking about what god damn wheel spacers to get Get ARP extended studs and normal 10mm spacers and spend a day off installing them. At least this way your setup will be more proper...


bobdole
(Old member with new to me VR4 and starting over. Respect your elders kids)
09/24/14 10:07 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Ichiba are not Japanese spacers. They are made in Taiwan. I deal direct with Ichiba if you need them. Sent you a message.

bobdole
(Old member with new to me VR4 and starting over. Respect your elders kids)
09/24/14 10:08 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I have the Project Kics spacers on my vr4. 10mm front and rear. They are the best, but are expensive.

JonGalant VR4.org Administrator
(Administrator)
09/25/14 01:57 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

H&R TRAK+ spacers are nice.

click


prove_it
(my racist jokes aren't actually funny)
09/25/14 02:09 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Agreed.

Brent just head over to a honda forum, you'll find more info over there...


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
09/25/14 06:23 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting 89Patches:

Wow those are expensive wheel spacers For those prices you may as well install extended studs. I run 10mm spacers on the front of my MR2 and they only cost me $30 from Allstar performance, ARP extended studs (Front only) were $80 and open end wheel nuts were $15 for 25.

You over thinking about what god damn wheel spacers to get Get ARP extended studs and normal 10mm spacers and spend a day off installing them. At least this way your setup will be more proper...




Eh, yeah, I overthink things sometimes. I was under the impression though, that extended studs weren't the prefered method here. Are 15mm spacers in the rear on extended studs still in the safe zone? Lastly, the reason I'm not picking up one of the cheaper spacers is because they aren't hub centric.


Quoting Jon:

H&R TRAK+ spacers are nice.




Yeah, but H&R doesn't make a 10mm 4 lug spacer for the Galant.



Quoting prove_it:

Agreed.

Brent just head over to a honda forum, you'll find more info over there...




Who the fuck is Brent?


GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
10/01/14 07:55 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Yeah Brent! Lol

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/04/14 08:18 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I got my spacers a while ago, but was waiting for a new wheel bearing and seals to come in the mail. I did the driver's side before the Shootout, so figured I might as well replace the passenger side too while I had the hub off the car.

I threw the spacers on and took the car for a drive. Even at 80 mph it felt nice and smooth, with no vibrations. The 3KGT brakes feel great, and the car's overall stance looks pretty good too. I want to bring the ride height up a bit, but other than that I happy with it. Good enough until I can get a set of wheels that fit better.

I should be all set to make the 2hr trip to East Coast MOD in NJ next weekend. I hope to see some of you guys there.

Here's what Mark was talking about in regard to the lug studs being different lengths.
(From Left to right: Extended rear stud, extended front stud, stock front stud, stock rear stud)


Rears


Fronts




coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
10/04/14 08:44 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

nice setup, looks good.

89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
10/04/14 08:45 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Yay! you took my advice and went with extended wheel studs and a nice set of spacers! Ya baller now brah

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/04/14 08:52 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Yeah, thanks Canada.

I did the rears just like you said, just pulled the calipers and banged the studs out.

The fronts had to come apart because of the ABS ring. I could have done them the same as the rears if it weren't for that. To be honest, I don't love the spacers. I'd rather swap in a set of wheels that fit the car better. But, this gets the job done for the time being. Thanks for the advice.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/05/14 06:10 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I got a few crappy cell phone pics of the G in its natural habitat...grocery gettin. I'm loving the new brakes and the wider stance. I can't believe how much better the car looks now that all four corners are flush.




BENE38A
(Slanging Kiwi parts)
10/05/14 07:52 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

It definately sits nicer man, I like the grill you put in as well

citymunky
(Fake Title)
10/05/14 08:28 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Are you still planning on going 5 lug?

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/05/14 08:28 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting BENE38A:

It definately sits nicer man, I like the grill you put in as well



Thanks, man! I will get some better pictures up eventually. The cell phone pics don't really showcase the wider stance very well.


Quoting citymunky:

Are you still planning on going 5 lug?



Eh, IDK City. I just jumped through hoops to space out the wheels to clear my brakes. I will go 5 lug eventually, but probably not anytime in the near future. I pretty much have all the parts to do the swap, but there's no real reason to swap over currently.

My winter project is going to be dropping the rear subframe to recondition it. I'll seal the underside of the car as well, which is pretty much the only thing I haven't rust proofed. I may swap to 5 lug then if I can get rid of my wheels and find a new set.


badams
(Bungie Battery)
10/05/14 08:28 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looks good Brent!

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/05/14 08:39 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Lol. beat it FNG

Haven't seen any updates out of you in a while? What's good with your G?


citymunky
(Fake Title)
10/05/14 08:45 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I been eyeballing them BBS's for awhile, it's just that shit keeps popping up that I have to spend money on. When I get close to your asking price I'll will be in contact.

faqinshiet
(Member +)
10/08/14 12:03 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Hey Brett
What lugs and spacers did you end up using?


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/09/14 11:01 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Hey, Richard. I ended up going with a set of Ichiba V1 spacers. 10mm front, and 15mm rear. They come with the extended lug studs, which I installed front and rear. As far lugs, I have a set of open ended Muteki SR48 lug nuts installed.

I've put a few hundred miles on the car with the spacers installed, and honestly I can't even tell they are there. I was a little worried about them causing vibrations, but, so far so good. The only thing I've done since I installed the spacers was retorque the lugs.

My brakes fit, and the car's stance looks much better now as well. I'm really happy with them overall.


Jesus_Negros
(Unempowered ADMIN)
10/09/14 03:01 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Still a turd tho.

coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
10/09/14 03:57 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

aren't they all

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
10/09/14 05:39 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Lookin good Brett! What width and offset are those bbs's? I'm still in the process of doing my brake upgrade too.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/09/14 06:50 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Mike, my wheels are +39. So, with the spacers they would be +29 front, and +24 rear.

You'll need a lower offset then most guys typically run on the Galant. Since you will be buying new wheels, I'd recommend getting the right wheels, rather than relying on spacers. Buying the correct wheel is definitely the better option of the two. I'd say you would probably be safe with something around +30 or lower. Just keep in mind, the lower you go, the more negative camber and fender clearancing will be required. That's why it's important to find that sweet spot where the wheels just clear the calipers. Spoke design is a big factor too. I saw you mentioned TE37's or Work Meister S1s, both of which would be good designs for clearing big brakes IMO.

It doesn't look like the Evo calipers you have would protrude out nearly as much as the 3KGT calipers I have. If I were you, I'd mock them up and take some measurements just to be sure what offset I needed. You definitely don't want to buy wheels, and then add spacers because you guessed. Make sense?

Quoting Turbro_Negro:

Still a turd tho.




Truth. Someone very dear to me once called it a "rust bucket"


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
10/09/14 06:56 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

And Brett's wheels are 7" width. So his +39 won't stick out as far as an 8" wheel with the same offset. Just keep that in mind. With an 8" wheel, if you go below +30 you'll have to start getting a bit crazy with camber or stretch a narrower tire a tad.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/09/14 07:04 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Exactly, Mark. If you compare how my wheels look to yours, there's a substantial difference in stance and lip width. No doubt, the 8" wheel looks much better. How is the brake clearance on your car? Those Wilwood calipers must be fairly slim. I'm assuming you have a bit of wiggle room, as you mentioned you'll be shaving the mounting pads on your wheels and reverse mounting the the barrels.

I'm definitely curious to see how that will look


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
10/09/14 10:54 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I have tons of room behind the spokes to clear larger calipers. Reverse mounting the faces will add like +12 offset, then removing my spacers and a 5mm shave should give me back 10mm total. So my spokes will be that much closer to the caliper still with more room to spare. It will retain the same stance but with no spacers and with more lip. Hopefully it works out. I get worried shipping such expensive wheels somewhere to have custom work done that might not work out like I hope.

coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
10/09/14 11:24 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Mark, where are they going?

turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
10/10/14 12:22 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Socal

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
10/10/14 07:37 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

What scaring me is how your saying +30 but EVO X wheels are 8.5 wide and +38. So do you think that at 8.0 wide and +30 offset will clear the EVO X calipers without sticking out too far?

slugsgomoo
(god hates stupid people)
10/10/14 08:37 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

you could probably go look at evolutionM.net at the EVOX forum because there are a billion threads about wheel fitment there, and that would definitely include caliper clearance.

Jesus_Negros
(Unempowered ADMIN)
10/10/14 08:40 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting turbowop:

Socal




Which place? I have some wheels about to get redone in socal too.

Evo X can run lower offsets than the vr4. Abs the wheel was basically designed to clear those brake calipers. And they aren't 8.5


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
10/10/14 12:06 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Wheelflip.

89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
10/10/14 12:12 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Negro your are wrong stock X wheels are 8.5" width. (If that's what your referring too)

On my car I run 17x8.5 +30mm offset rears sit flush with the quarter and the fronts poke just a little bit (Maybe 1/4" or less). This is with 255/40/17 tires as well with 1.5į of camber up front and 1.0į in the rear.


Jesus_Negros
(Unempowered ADMIN)
10/10/14 12:29 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Hmm Guess I was mic checked.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/10/14 12:31 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

We could sit here and guess what offset will work all day long, but each wheel is designed differently. One +30 8.5" wide wheel might fit, where another may not. Some wheel manufactures actually vary spoke design to change offset, where others just vary mounting pad thickness. You'll probably be anywhere from +30 to +40 if I had to guess. But, guessing is pretty dumb when you can mock up the calipers and take some measurements and know for sure what wheels will work, and what wheels won't.

Like I said Mike; mount the calipers, take some measurements and THEN buy a set of wheels. Measure twice, buy once.

...Or buy the wrong wheels on a hunch because some guy on whatever forum said they would fit...and then buy spacers...and then pay someone to install them...and then hope you don't have clearance issues.

The right option seems pretty apparent here


Jesus_Negros
(Unempowered ADMIN)
10/10/14 12:38 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting turbowop:

Wheelflip.




I am not going with them. Just from the simple fact that I know 3 or 4 people who have had horrible issues with them. Hard to contact Alex at times, incomplete orders/work/parts/ or just overall doing things incorrectly and taking forever to correct the issues. Just letting you know.

Oh and all of this was in the year 2014.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
11/02/14 08:42 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I bumped the ride height on the car up a good bit. I hope it's still hellaflush enough for youz guyz.







slugsgomoo
(god hates stupid people)
11/03/14 01:16 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

car looks terrific

coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
11/03/14 10:03 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I think it looks better raised up a bit. VR4s to me don't look so great when really low. Just a little bit, that's perfect.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
11/11/14 06:32 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Well, rolled about 4k on the new motor, so I threw in the Evo 560s, bumped the boost to about 17 psi and tweaked the tune a bit. I can't do too much because I'm still waiting on the LC-1 to get here later this week. Even with a preliminary tune though, I'm really happy with the nice smooth power the car is making. I've been playing with the ECMlink boost control also, and it's really sweet. I want to start tweaking fuel and the higher MAF ranges, but I'll need a WB before I do. I also need to swap in my 2G MAF. There's still a bit of knock in the pull, but I'm confident I can get rid of once I have a WB to go off of. Here's a 3rd gear pull on 93 pump.

She rips pretty good

Log


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
12/04/14 08:11 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

A lot has happened since I last posted. DD'd it plenty, added a few more mods, took it to the track, blew up the ECU, and all kinds of other stuff.

I sent the ECU out to ECMtuning to get repaired. I got it back today, along with a few other upgrades and parts I'm going to try and install this weekend. First on this list is a new to me revised ISC, since the old one fried my ECU. Then, I'll finally be upgrading the stock GVR4 MAF with a Evo 8 unit. I also have a GM 3 bar MAP sensor to install, so I can quit guessing at boost levels while logging. If all goes as planned, I should have everything installed this weekend, and hopefully get the car up and running again.


I think my winter project is going to be dropping the rear subframe to recondition or replace it. I've been keeping an eye out for a deal on a complete DSM rear subframe; subframe, 4 bolt diff, axles, and all...But I haven't found one yet. It would be nice to do a 1 for 1 swap and delete the 4WS. While I have the subframe down, I'm planning to strip the undercarriage, and rust proof the entire underbody. It's the only area on the whole car I haven't rust proofed yet. The pinch welds definitely need to be straightened out, and need a fresh coat of paint as well.

At some point over the winter, I'm going to pull the trans again too, and fix the squeaky TOB. The TOB still squeaks intermittently with the clutch pedal released. It pisses me off too, because it was a brand new OEM Mitsu TOB. I'll probably shim the pivot ball while I'm in there. I'm also trying to decide if I really want to keep the welded diff. The car really sucks ass to DD with the welded diff, but it performed so well at the track that now I'm torn on whether to keep it or not.

It's been weird having running VR4 for almost 6 months. I think it's past due to be JSB again


ghostinthevr4
(Likes Poetry)
12/04/14 08:52 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

You have a great car I was contemplating on buying it once I seen it for sale. When I seen the car in person at MOD I was amazed by it, looks like your doing some nice mods to it keep up the good work.

It's a good thing you didn't sell the rims they where meant for that car.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
12/06/14 09:36 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Thanks, man. When did you see it at MOD? It wasn't this year at East Coast MOD, was it?

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
12/08/14 10:25 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Happy birthday Brett!

EHmotorsports
(Capt Fabbin Stabbin)
12/08/14 01:52 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Happy B day and the car is looking great Brett:)

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
12/08/14 06:42 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Thanks, guys!

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
02/03/15 10:27 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Long story short, I pulled the built motor out and am replacing it with my rebuilt stock short block for the time being. After considering my long and short term goals for the car, this is the best option for me. A stock bottom end will get me to where I want to be short term, while enabling me to make some improvements to my other motor eventually allowing me to meet my long term goals.

Motor out:


Nasty short block:




Clean short block:




New Fel-Pro HG & ARP studs:



Cleaned up the head:


Head bolted up:



Long block mostly assembled with the -10 AN valve cover for the new catch can setup:





Got jelly of 15psi88's sweet cover, so here's my lesser attempt at my own version. It still needs the finishing touches, but you get the idea.




BISS rebuild stuffz


G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
02/03/15 10:53 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looks dope!

transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
02/04/15 08:25 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

that motor looks great. makes me want to build one. i might have to now.

coyotes
(Hipster VR4)
02/04/15 10:17 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

what paint did you use on the block? and what is that cover for really?

nicely done though, your work is always super clean


turbohf
(anyone even read this?)
02/04/15 10:29 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

looks good, but i cant said i have ever seen anyone paint a block wrinkle red.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
02/05/15 10:42 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I painted the block with VHT FlameProof. Its not actually a "wrinkle" finish, it just dries as a dull red (or whatever color you have), which I actually kind of like. With the FlameProof paint, you can bake the part after it is coated, and I've found it's damn near as durable as powdercoating. I coated the FP manifold in the same stuff, and it holds up great even under extreme heat.

The cover is my half-assed solution to doing a full wire tuck. I hated how the body harness and fuse box/fuse box wiring looks in that area of the car. I started to pull the harness and relocate it in the body, then decided against it. After the cover is done, it should neatly hide everything while giving the bay an overall cleaner look. I'm trying to decide if I want to paint it white to match the car, or black to offset all the white that's already in the engine compartment. The edges of the cover will be covered with some flexible trim.

I've always found the little details always add up to a good look overall, so that's what I'm concentrating on this time around. The goal is a clean looking engine bay that's still functional. I don't want to pull half of my car apart just to trace a wire or check some fuses, but also don't want it looking like a cluttered mess. Finding that happy medium has been more difficult than I anticipated.


prove_it
(my racist jokes aren't actually funny)
02/05/15 11:58 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I like the detail of the Magnus and FP logos painted red. Looks really nice.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/06/15 09:02 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Ok, so I'm recapping some stuff just to document everything I've done to the car in the build thread. I also have some new updates as well. Be prepared to scroll...A LOT.

After pulling the motor, I decided to restore and recover the wiring harness. I used new Raychem covering and replaced connectors where needed. Here are some shots of it before:















Here are some shots of the harness restoration:













[image]











And a few shots of the harness semi-routed:








Motor ready to go in:




Flywheel was resurfaced by Jackson Auto Machine (JAM). They did an amazing job! The pictures speak for themselves.





Flywheel, PP, and trans bolted up:





Motor dropped in:





Clear cam cover to go with the pretty cam gears (set to zero of course):




Time for some new brake stuff! New OEM Mitsu rear calipers, dust shields and rotors. Also, braided lines for all 4 corners.






I also installed a set of Sabelt 3 point harnesses:














For the back, you'll need a set of 90* L brackets.







Belts installed:








Out with the BBS LMs and in with the Work Meister S1s. When I got the wheels they were looking poopy:



So I stripped all the poop off of one:



Then did the rest:





Taped off the lips and prepped for paint:




Picked up some paint from Automotive Touchup. I went with Factory Subaru Gold Metallic, and it turned out to be a really nice color:





After a quick spray:







Almost dry:



Wheels are dry, tape removed. I decided not to clear coat because I really liked the finish. It's not quite a matte finish, but more like a satin finish. It looks great in the sun.




Picked up all new decals:



Decals on, wheels shined up and finished:






...And soon to be wrapped in Dunlop Direzza DZ101s:



At this point, I pretty much have everything I need to get 1837 back together. Now, I can get my other motor on the stand and start building it


minneSNOWta
(Member +)
05/06/15 09:37 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Very nice Brett. Lots of hard work put in on that harness. Love the wheels. What size are they? How much were the rear OEM calipers? I've been waiting on a pair of reman's to ship, but it's been a while. Also, how did you find new dust shields? I've asked JNZ and no luck.

ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
05/06/15 10:27 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting GSTwithPSI:








Wheels came out great. Ditching the clear was a good move. These wheels are knocked off all over the place; i feel like the satin helps keep them different from all the reps. I always thought Meister S1s or SSR Professor SP1s looked right at home on 6g Galant.

Some insane dedication here, hats off to you man. I remember all the BS with the blue car. A friend of mine thought he saw it when he was in Pensacola several months ago. He said it wasn't looking so great. I was kind of hoping that it was a different car but how many Estoril Blue 6g galants could be there?

Cute seatbelts.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/07/15 05:37 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting minneSNOWta:

Very nice Brett. Lots of hard work put in on that harness. Love the wheels. What size are they? How much were the rear OEM calipers? I've been waiting on a pair of reman's to ship, but it's been a while. Also, how did you find new dust shields? I've asked JNZ and no luck.




Hey Andre, thanks for the kind words. The wheels are 17x7 & 17x8 +30. I would have prefered to get a set that is 8" wide all the way around, but I got a great deal on the set I picked up. I prefer the aesthetics of a staggered setup, so I'm not too upset about it. The only thing I don't like is the fact that I'll still need to run a 5mm spacer in the front to clear the 3KGT brakes. I kinda expected it due to the low offset, but was hopeful I could ditch the spacers. Those 3KGT calipers just stick out a ridiculous amount.

I got the OEM calipers and dust shields as part of a deal when I picked up 820. I wouldn't even want to know what it would cost to source those parts new from the dealer, assuming they are even still available.




Quoting ApexHunter:

Wheels came out great. Ditching the clear was a good move. These wheels are knocked off all over the place; i feel like the satin helps keep them different from all the reps. I always thought Meister S1s or SSR Professor SP1s looked right at home on 6g Galant.

Some insane dedication here, hats off to you man. I remember all the BS with the blue car. A friend of mine thought he saw it when he was in Pensacola several months ago. He said it wasn't looking so great. I was kind of hoping that it was a different car but how many Estoril Blue 6g galants could be there?

Cute seatbelts.




Thanks for the compliments, David. I thought the BBS LMs always looked great on the car, but the spoke design was just too busy for my taste. I also hated how my BBS wheels were only 7" wide. If you compare shots of my car to Mark's, I always thought his car looked like a whole different machine, even though we had the same model of wheels. The wider wheel and tire on 1051 gave the car a completely different, yet aggressive look. Even with the spacers, I just thought my car looked meh with the BBS. I've always been a sucker for a simple spoke design, which is why I'm so partial to the Evo 8 Enkeis. I wanted something classy and unique, while still sticking with the gold. I've always liked the Work Meister S1, and thought it was one of the few wheels that could aesthetically match the BBS LMs. I think the spoke design and lips on the Work wheels will give me the more aggressive look I've had in mind, even though the front's are still only 7" wide. In addition, I'll be wrapping the wheels in 225/45 series tires, which should help with looks and performance.

And yes, who could forget old 1813. It's definitely been a crazy ride from owning 1813 to where I am today. I learned a lot owning 1813, and more than just knowledge about the car. Being a new member here was a learning curve as well. I still talk to the owner of 1813 every now and then. He's taken care of the car to the best of his ability, and I commend him for that. Honestly, it wasn't the prettiest looking thing when I handed over the keys, so I can't blame the guy for how it looks today. I always pester him about getting on here and posting updates, but he works A LOT. I've got my hands full with two VR-4s currently, but even so, I still miss that ugly blue turd every now and then.

And I'm glad you like my seatbelts. I'm assuming you're referring to my ratty ass Mitsubishi rear belt covers. Those were in my 1G Eclipse when I bought it around 2004. I thought they were gay as AIDS when I first got the car, but they just chilled out on the rear belts and seemed to stick around. Fast forward to today, and I'm strangely attached to them. I suppose I'd call them my DSM bad luck charm...


ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
05/07/15 07:31 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I was actually just trying to give you a hard time on the pretty red belts but I did get a chuckle and mild hot import nights circa 2002 flashback out of the belt covers. But for real though that is a badass harness integration.

I ran 17x7, 17x8 on 1951. Cosmetically that car was a pile of poop by and large but the stagger looked sick. And that is coming from someone who typically only likes square setups on AWD platforms. I'm sure it will look awesome on 1837.


Jesus_Negros
(Unempowered ADMIN)
05/07/15 08:27 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Wheels are dope my good sir. I approve!

LIV4PSI
(dyslexic 1051 )
05/07/15 08:36 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Wheels do look great. I didn't even recognize the color. Superb work like always Brett

turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
05/07/15 09:31 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I'm excited to see how those wheels look on the car. I'm surprised at the amount of lip for the given offset, especially on the 7" wide ones. I figured that in an offset required for our cars, there wouldn't be any lip and that is what makes those particular wheels look good, IMO. Where'd you source them?

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/07/15 10:28 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting ApexHunter:

I was actually just trying to give you a hard time on the pretty red belts but I did get a chuckle and mild hot import nights circa 2002 flashback out of the belt covers. But for real though that is a badass harness integration.

I ran 17x7, 17x8 on 1951. Cosmetically that car was a pile of poop by and large but the stagger looked sick. And that is coming from someone who typically only likes square setups on AWD platforms. I'm sure it will look awesome on 1837.




Well, it's a well known fact I'm a fan of ricer red. The belts just seemed to fit right in, so I figured what the hell. Never mind if they improve survivability during a crash, they're red!!!

When I bought these wheels, your old Galant was one of the first cars I thought of. I remember vividly how great the wheels on your car looked. Matter of fact, this is saved in my home under Favorite Threads: click




Quoting Turbro_Negro:

Wheels are dope my good sir. I approve!



I bet you do....Probably too white for you before.




Quoting LIV4PSI:

Wheels do look great. I didn't even recognize the color. Superb work like always Brett




Thanks, Craig! Now send me all that shiny Frontline Fabrication bullshit you bought so I can have the most baller GVR4 ever. I'm REALLY hoping to have this turd running in time to make it to the Shootout this year. Looking forward to seeing you there if I can finally pull it off.




Quoting turbowop:

I'm excited to see how those wheels look on the car. I'm surprised at the amount of lip for the given offset, especially on the 7" wide ones. I figured that in an offset required for our cars, there wouldn't be any lip and that is what makes those particular wheels look good, IMO. Where'd you source them?




I actually sourced them from Canadian Ebay. (89Patches, your country still sucks )

I think the concave spoke design helps facilitate a bit of a lip. At first look, I thought the spoke design would help clear my front brakes, even at the lower offset. At 7" wide, the front wheels still fall short of clearing the brakes by a few millimeters. I debated painting the lips, since I was going back and forth about the wheels looking too bling bling with polished lips. That's another reason I decided to go with the satin finish on the spokes. I felt the dull finish would offset the shiny lips nicely. I'm hoping they balance out well when I get them on the car. I'm also excited to see how they look, but definitely don't want them to look dubbed out or gaudy. We'll see I guess. I mocked them up when I first got them just to see how they cleared the brakes. One thing's for sure, they are definitely gonna poke a bit from the fenders. Here's a sneak peak:




iceman69510
(Turn Right Racing)
05/08/15 06:59 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

"I figured that in an offset required for our cars, there wouldn't be any lip"

It's all about the spoke curve in the design.


89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
05/08/15 10:11 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting GSTwithPSI:

I actually sourced them from Canadian Ebay. (89Patches, your country still sucks )




That's racist...


iceman69510
(Turn Right Racing)
05/08/15 11:04 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Canadiens are a race?

prove_it
(my racist jokes aren't actually funny)
05/08/15 11:28 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Yea, but they don't ever win...


Anywho, Brett I just noticed your use of the dolly and have to say that's clever.


89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
05/08/15 12:15 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting iceman69510:

Canadiens are a race?




They like to think they are.


But I am not a "Canadien"


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
05/08/15 02:10 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting iceman69510:

"I figured that in an offset required for our cars, there wouldn't be any lip"

It's all about the spoke curve in the design.




I realize that, but typically wheels that fit our cars don't have much lip regardless of spoke design. Unless you get an offset or width that requires some camber and tire stretch.

I guess the Works just work.


iceman69510
(Turn Right Racing)
05/08/15 06:41 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting 89Patches:

Quoting iceman69510:

Canadiens are a race?




They like to think they are.


But I am not a "Canadien"




I know, just razzin' ya.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/09/15 08:26 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Got the tires mounted today. I'm excited to get them on the car and see how they look.







GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/18/15 09:31 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Did a little work on 18Turdy7.

New brake lines on all 4 corners. Started with the fronts:




Then did the rears. New calipers, rotors, dust shields, and brake lines installed:



Getting finished up under the hood:



BENE38A
(Slanging Kiwi parts)
05/19/15 02:03 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

very tidy bay, I want to see those wheels on!

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
05/19/15 11:38 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

My dream wheels!! Man I can't wait to get those too. Good work Brett! Lookin sharp

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/23/15 07:06 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

All buttoned up, just waiting on a few parts.






And a little teaser


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/13/15 10:12 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000



oldman_tau
(Member)
06/13/15 11:55 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Missing it! Keep it up!

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/14/15 12:04 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Thanks, Anthony! Looking forward to seeing those BBS LMs again in the near future

faqinshiet
(Member +)
06/14/15 10:22 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Beautiful!

G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
06/14/15 10:28 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looks good man, I don't know if i like that filter placement though. I feel it needs to be under that white box you made to keep from pulling in hot air from the fans etc.......

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/14/15 11:04 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Actually, that's exactly what I did. I've got a 3" aluminum intake pipe routed to the MAF that's located on the other side of the cover. I'll post some pics of it in a bit.

ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
06/15/15 12:31 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

<--- lil bit jelly. Nice little collection there.

89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
06/16/15 11:51 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

WTF is this shit! You post a pic off the turd off jack stands and only show one pic of it! That's not showing off the new rims

Nice lip bro...

PS, Sorry


89Mirageman
(Senior Member)
06/16/15 01:08 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

You sir are addicted .

Cars look awesome though!


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/16/15 09:07 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting 89Patches:

WTF is this shit! You post a pic off the turd off jack stands and only show one pic of it! That's not showing off the new rims

Nice lip bro...

PS, Sorry




One pic ain't good enough? You been hanging around Mike V too much...

I'm trying to get the car all buttoned up under the hood. I'll post some more pics soon sweetheart, so don't worry your little head.


transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
06/19/15 09:56 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting GSTwithPSI:

Thanks, Anthony! Looking forward to seeing those BBS LMs again in the near future




does this mean you did sell them?


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/20/15 10:39 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Yeah, I sold them back to Anthony. If he get's his car done in time, I believe he's planning to attend SoCal MOD, so you may see them there.

transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
06/21/15 08:30 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

damn, ive been saving to make you an offer.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/21/15 09:21 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Sorry, dude. Anthony has some sentimental attachment to them, so naturally I wanted him to have them back.

I never really cared for the BBS LMs that were on my car. For the money, there are better sets of wheels out there, IMO. The offset, width, and spoke design of those particular BBS wheels sucked for anything other than a lightly modified car. They won't clear big brakes without spacers, and the 7" wide wheel limits tire selection and performance. For the money, you could go 5 lug and pick up a set of RPF1s that perform better. In summary, I wouldn't be too sad about it.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/21/15 10:52 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Before I get started here, I'd like to give a shoutout to Mandrel Bending Solutions in Pasadena, MD. The guys there are super cool, and did work for me on the spot 5 minutes after walking in the door. If it wasn't for their extensive stock and one of their fabricators, Tim, my car would still be on jackstands. If you're in the area, I highly recommend them. Here's part of the 3" intake system they built for me...See down below for the final product:




I got tired of pushing my dipstick out at the track, so I picked up a -10 AN valve cover a while back. I was using a cheap Ebay catch can temporarily until I found something I liked better. Well, here it is:






I finally finished up the most recent round of improvements to 1837. I pulled my built motor last fall to do some more upgrades to it, which sparked this whole ordeal. The built motor is getting more built...It's getting some Eagle H beam rods, and some other odds and ends to reliably sustain more power in the long term. In the short term, the original motor went back in, which brings us up to now. Below is the culmination of about 9 months worth of work (@ old man pace). I've updated the mod list in my showcase to reflect all the new additions to the car.

For starters, I think the Work wheels look a thousand time more pimp than the BBS LMs I had did:




Pop your hood, bro:





























Interior shots with the new to me 3 point Sabelt harnesses. Thanks, G.






Big thanks to Peter for these awesome mats:




Engine bay:












Again, BIG thanks to Tim at Mandrel Bending Solutions for fabricating most of my 3" intake:






Here's how some of the harness work tuned out. Thanks to Brad for his advice during this job, and supplying some new connectors:





Mounted all the important shit together:




New catch can:



Overall, the car is looking and running good. I have some more little stuff to do, but if all goes well I'll have it out a Capitol Raceway new weekend. Thanks for looking.


G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
06/21/15 11:22 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Car looks really good man, looks like you put a lot of time in to it for sure. Did you notice a huge difference with the filter out of the way of hot air? The wheels look way better than the bbs.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/21/15 11:28 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Yeah, the new intake setup puts my IATs right at ambient. It was 91* out the other day, and ECMlink was showing 96* IAT. The next step will be to make some ducting to use the small vent in the side of the JDM bumper to funnel the air directly at the filter box.

Fiascoxl
(Member +)
06/21/15 11:39 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Man that thing is seriously clean! Nice.

faqinshiet
(Member +)
06/22/15 12:16 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Excellent work!

ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
06/22/15 12:20 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Fuckin A buddy. Big time win on the execution. Very, very clean. Harness and engine bay in general. Also liking the wheels.

Are your exhaust tips staggered with the taper of the rear bumper? If not, someone needs to try this with the JDM bumper.


oldman_tau
(Member)
06/22/15 12:31 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Excellent!!!

BENE38A
(Slanging Kiwi parts)
06/22/15 12:46 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

That is super clean, wheels make the car look very tough.

MX4
(Member +++)
06/22/15 02:33 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Very very nice. Congrats to you. Obviously a lot of hard work has gone into this car.

iceman69510
(Turn Right Racing)
06/22/15 08:14 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looking great, and a photo spread to make Mike V proud.

transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
06/22/15 08:30 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

you really made the car something special Brett. looks so good. Congrats that its back on the road again!!

89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
06/22/15 08:33 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looks great! Mike V would be proud of that post.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/22/15 09:22 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

As always, I appreciate the positive feedback guys. Yeah, I posted a shit ton of pictures since Canada was crying last time I just put up one. As the Mike V fanclub prez, I'm required to crash your browser window, or severely hinder your page loading with each post. If you have HughesNet, fuck you.


Quoting ApexHunter:

Fuckin A buddy. Big time win on the execution. Very, very clean. Harness you're nd engine bay in general. Also liking the wheels.

Are your exhaust tips staggered with the taper of the rear bumper? If not, someone needs to try this with the JDM bumper.




Yeah, David, the muffler tips are cut staggered with the bumper. Thanks for the kind words, and staggered wheel setup inspiration


citymunky
(Fake Title)
06/22/15 09:26 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

That fact that you were able to find set 4x114.3 S1P's still blows my mind.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/22/15 09:54 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Well, they weren't always minty fresh. They looked like shit when I got them:


I sourced them from a guy in Canada. I just got REALLY lucky I found them when I did. I bought them hoping fitment would be decent, knowing the offset might be an issue. I'm still at mercy of using spacers in the front because the 3KGT calipers are so damn big. They'd clear stock brakes no problem, but I need 10mm in the front just to clear. As a result, I have to run a spacer in the rear to bring all 4 corners flush, which is why the rears poke a bit. I ended up with 10mm front and 12mm rear, which looked pretty aggressive, especially with the 255 tire. I haven't had the car aligned again since I installed the wheels, so there's room for improvement there. I'm running almost no camber currently, so I'll have the tech put -1.5 on each corner and see where that leaves me.

Bottom line, I like these wheels 1,000 times more than the BBS LMs. I think they achieve the look I've always envisioned for this car. Of course, the element of rarity and originality they add to the build is a plus as well.


clevr4
(Member)
06/22/15 11:46 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Where can I get one of those cool rear window visors?

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/23/15 06:18 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

You can't. They are NLA, and impossible to find.

badams
(Bungie Battery)
06/23/15 08:23 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting clevr4:

Where can I get one of those cool rear window visors?




Last time I saw one for sale I think it went for over $200......


transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
06/23/15 09:33 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

i think it was almost 300$ and it was a BNIB part also. i remember that and wanted it, but refused to buck up the cash for it.

bobdole
(Old member with new to me VR4 and starting over. Respect your elders kids)
06/23/15 10:21 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Very clean car. Looks killer.

turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
06/23/15 06:51 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I love everything but the tire poke. Hopefully some camber will fix that. Otherwise looks great. Post up pics of your quarts of oil next time you change it, from different angles...

G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
06/23/15 08:41 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I think it needs more stretch in the back.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/27/15 06:01 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Picked up a Turbo Performance manifold blanket. I was apprehensive for paying $100 bucks for this thing at first. After I got it though, I was pretty impressed. The construction is awesome. It's super heavy duty, and the fit is perfect. I highly recommend this is you have a FP manifold. The only catch was I had to reconfigure my J-pipe again (4th time now). I don't think this would fit a stock piping setup.




Installed:





GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
07/05/15 10:01 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I started to make some more improvements on the clutch system today. Installed a new 1G clutch master with the larger fluid reservoir. I have an ACT 2600 and 6 puck sprung disc on the way to go with it. Not looking forward to pulling the transmission though...



EfiniX
(Member ++)
07/06/15 10:09 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looking at your photos, 2 questions...

First, a newb question: Are those the brakes off a 3000GT? I've been looking for a wheel/brake combo that spares me a 5-lug conversion and your setup looks very nice.

Second, how many exhaust studs have you had to drill out and replace? I noticed the nut on the pass-side end of the FP manifold and felt a twinge of pain as I remembered the I spent with EH Motorsports drilling out 2 studs, then h-coiling all of the holes.

Bonus question: how has your exhaust held up? My FP mani warped with a few months and now I've got a slight leak that abates once the car warms up. One of these days I'll pull everything off and have the manifold resurfaced, but for now, the agony of drilling out the seized bolts on the turbo from the last time I had to pull that f'in thing off is still too fresh in my mind.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
07/06/15 09:42 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

The front calipers are off of a 3KGT. If you're thinking about doing the conversion, you'll need a wheel with a ton of clearance.

As far as the exhaust studs go, I've never had to drill them out on any 4G63 I've ever owned. Maybe I've just been lucky
I use the copper hardware and washers, as well as anti-sieze on all of my exhaust hardware. That's always worked for me over the years.

My FP mani is holding up fine. I've never had any warping issues that I can tell. No warping, no cracks, nothing. I know they don't like to be exhaust wrapped though, so not sure if you have ever done that or not. I just put a manifold blanket on mine, so we'll see how it holds up to that in the long run.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
07/28/15 08:58 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Got some work done on the car this weekend. Started by installing the new clutch and TOB:




Then built a bastard 20G:










The put on my sweet oil cap that Jason made for us:




The clutch feels better than it ever has. The ACT 2600 with the 6 puck sprung disk is the perfect compromise between streetability and grabby performance. Also, the clutch fork is directly in the middle of the window where it should be. The trans shifts fairly smooth at high RPM, and I'm not fighting the trans like I was before. The car feels much better overall.

I'm still on Evo 560s and the B16G. I'd like to take the car back to the track and see what I can squeeze out of this setup on a good clutch. Afterwards, I have FIC 1050s and the bastard 20G ready to drop in. Also, high on the priority list is new intercooler piping. I've got a local shop waiting to do the custom piping job, so after the Shootout I can dedicate some time to that. I'm not sure where I'm going to go with the next turbo setup, but I'll be on the lookout for something bigger to replace the bastard with as budget allows.

At this point, I just need to put some miles on the car to gauge how it will handle the trip to the Shootout. It seems like I'm always wrenching on this thing right up until crunch time...So I've still gotta decide if 1837 is going to make the trip to Ohio this year or not


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/02/15 11:39 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Drove to breakfast this morning. The new clutch feels great. Added a bit of camber too, which tucks the wheels nicely.






ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
08/02/15 12:19 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

That little bit of camber made a big difference. Looks about perfect now. Car is too clean.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/02/15 10:23 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Thanks, David. I'm doing my best to carry on where you left off with the staggered setup on 1951

How's your old car doing, anyways?


89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
08/02/15 10:49 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looks good! Any rubbage?

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/02/15 10:55 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Nah, no rubbing. There's actually a lot more clearance than there looks to be...Although, I really haven't pushed it through any real corners to truly test it.

turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
08/02/15 11:07 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I love those far off shots. I always liked walking up to my car from a distance. I think these cars look great. Nice work.

ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
08/03/15 01:25 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting GSTwithPSI:

How's your old car doing, anyways?




Word on the street is the guy wadded it up a few months in. Body was not much of a loss, but vr4 evo spec drivetrain would be nice to recover. Maybe a few other things. I tried getting in contact with him and no luck. Anthony did too, with similar results IIRC. Not a big deal, just hope the valuable-to-us bits find a good home.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/13/15 09:54 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Made some more changes to 1837.

I started by replacing the factory puller fan with something that moves a bit more air. I got a good deal on a 14" SPAL slim fan, which is rated at nearly 1300 CFM. I'm hoping this will drop my temps a bit at idle, and it opens up some more space in the engine bay. It barely fit on the radiator next to the other slim puller I have set up (which it dwarfs in comparison).




Bastard 20G is on. Also installed a tubular O2 housing.





FIC 1050s are in as well. Rebuilt and flow tested by FIC; installed with all new seals.




Also got some bumpz...




Installed. I'll eventually re-carpet the trunk area and make everything look nicer.






Installed my 60mm Greddy water temp gauge.





GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
11/10/15 09:48 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Last time I was at the track, one of the fan blades on my SPAL fan snapped off. So, threw on a replacement. Now rocking Dual 13" SPAL fans. They work awesome.



Last month at East Coast MOD, I got to meet up again with Sal desant78 at his shop following the meet. He and his friend Phil run Side Street Motorsports, a custom car and fabrication shop. 1837 has been in need of a legit intercooler piping setup for some time now, and the guys at Side Street Motorsports agreed to take on the job. So, last Sunday I drove to car 2 hours to Sal's shop in NJ, and spent the day hanging out while he and Phil custom made a boss ass short route aluminum piping setup for 1837.


So, rolled in and found Sal's 995/1000 JSB in typical GVR-4 fashion. Sal's currently in the process of some major overhauls on the car.




After a few sausage & egg McMuffin's, we got down to business, and started tearing stuff apart.



I'm currently on an aftermarket Evo 8 core. In order to configure the core for a short route piping setup, I needed to have the driver side end tank modified to relocate the outlet. The fabricator, Phil, made short work of modifications by welding up the old outlet and replacing it with a new one.






Next, they mocked up the cold side pipes, starting with the lower intercooler outlet pipe.



Then, they fabbed up the upper intercooler pipe and BOV flange.




Here's the entire cold side.





Next came the hot side. My biggest concern was the J-pipe. On nearly every J-pipe I've seen, they are always built like shit. The ones that aren't necked down ridiculously small always compromise clearance near the exhaust manifold. I needed plenty of clearance with my FP manifold, and additionally, I'm running a manifold blanket which required even more clearance. I also always hated how most J-pipes have a coupler positioned right over the manifold. I expressed my concerns/desires of the J-pipe design to Sal and Phil, and they delivered a piece that far exceeded my expectations.


They started mocking up the hot side on my car.




Then Sal mocked it up after it was welded together on his long block, which shows the routing and clearance.






And here are a few shots off the car.






Here's the entire setup: 3 pipes, 4 couplers (90* TB coupler not pictured), and the intercooler. This truly turned out awesome!



Lastly, the final product.






The best part of the whole process was I got to be in the shop the entire time Sal and Phil were working on the car to give them my input (not that they even needed it). They were open to my ideas, and were willing to hear me out and do the job like I wanted it done. I'd highly recommend the services at Side Street Motorsports, and I couldn't be happier with how everything turned out.

I was in awe of how much of a performance increase I saw with the new piping setup. I'm seeing significantly reduced spool times, and the car feels much quicker. I will do some logging and make some comparisons against old logs. Suffice it to say, this was a long needed, and an extremely beneficial upgrade.

Lastly, BIG thanks to Sal and Phil! I had a blast hanging out, and enjoyed checking out some of the other cool projects they were working on around the shop. They had stuff ranging from a turbo H6 swapped STI to a LS2 swapped 350Z; all of which can be found on their FB page.


ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
11/10/15 10:30 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Nice work! J Pipe and overall length are excellent. Engine bay is really looking good now. Like how you kept the BOV out of sight.

89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
11/10/15 10:39 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looks good dude!

desant78
(Member ++)
11/11/15 12:09 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting ApexHunter:

Nice work! J Pipe and overall length are excellent. Engine bay is really looking good now. Like how you kept the BOV out of sight.




That was one of my favorite parts of the kit, how the BOV was kept hidden and still recirculated.

It was a blast hanging out with Brett and building the kit. Best part was his face when we went for a test drive and he was so happy with the results. The first car I ever tried to work on was 1662, in 2010. I learned so much from this community as a result, and its great to reach a point where I can now help people like Brett and such a great example of a vr4.

Like Brett said, if anyone on the forum is interested in any parts of this kit, feel free to PM and we could help you out. We are in South Jersey, so if anyone is local feel free to come by amd see the shop! I'm honestly just stoked to be a small part of how great this car is coming out.


faqinshiet
(Member +)
11/11/15 12:33 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Awesome work! I do like that you don't see the couplers too! Engine bay looks amazing!

prove_it
(my racist jokes aren't actually funny)
11/11/15 08:08 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Very nice set-up. Welds are beautiful and the pipes are clean. Looks great. Even the flow through the EVO core is will done. That J-pipe is well done. Best I've ever seen.


Perhaps this will be our ETS replacements?


strokin4dr
(fighting them with a large needle)
11/11/15 08:15 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I wouldn't mind having a j-pipe like that for my ets kit!

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
11/11/15 09:48 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

One of the things Sal and I discussed was the possibility of Side Street Motorsports producing copies of this kit if there was enough interest. I told Sal I would be more than willing to come back by the shop and have Phil make some jigs so they could reproduce these. I can't speak to what these would be priced at, but I'm pretty confident that Sal could offer these to the community below what the ETS kit is priced at. That's assuming you can even get an ETS kit anymore, since last I heard ETS isn't even producing kits for the VR-4 anymore.

So, some overall details on the setup:

-Intercooler
The Evo 8 core I'm using actually has more surface area than the ETS core. It's also significantly cheaper: click . I'm not saying it's superior, just stating the facts. I picked mine up BNIB from a buddy cheap, so they are around used as well. In the current configuration, Phil modified the hot side inlet by hacking off the old 2.5" inlet pipe, and welded in a new 2.25" pipe which relocates the inlet so it's routed through the core support. The cold side outlet stays as is @ 2.5". The mounting tabs are bent over, and can be modified to fit stock mounting points already located on the car.

-Piping
It's all 2.25" aluminum. I currently have a 3" N/T throttle body, with a 3" 90* coupler. The UICP is expanded up to 3" to fit the TB coupler and the lower cold pipe is expanded to 2.5" to fit the cold side IC outlet. You could easily get reducing couplers that neck down to the 2.25" piping rather than expanding the piping.

-J-pipe
I gotta give it to Phil, this thing is a work of art. The J-pipe is entirely 2.25" up until it's necked down at the compressor outlet. Phil was able to create an awesome transition from the 2.25" pipe to the J-pipe flange. The J-pipe flange is produced in house by Side Street Motorsports. The pipe routes directly to the IC inlet and connects via a coupler through the core support. No coupler over the manifold, and there is a ton of clearance between the J-pipe and #4 exhaust manifold runner.

There's not cutting required anywhere, and A/C is retained. Like stated above, it's 4 couplers, 3 pipes and an intercooler. Super simple.


iceman69510
(Turn Right Racing)
11/11/15 11:07 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

From memory, that IC does not look like a stock Evo 8. Similar, but differently shaped tanks.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
11/11/15 11:12 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

It's not a stock core. It's an aftermarket/upgraded core meant for the Evo 8.

iceman69510
(Turn Right Racing)
11/11/15 11:58 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Ok, what I thought, but the posts were not specific on that.

prove_it
(my racist jokes aren't actually funny)
11/11/15 12:03 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

You missed the line about an aftermarket evo 8 core then. It's there. Granted it's a lot to read, but it's mentioned.

Ok, lets start the inevitable argument on steel pipes versus aluminum...


89Mirageman
(Senior Member)
11/11/15 12:36 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looks awesome Brett! I see they're proving the Eastwood tig is worth a damn too. You hear so many horror stories about welders these days and I'm sure most of the bad comes from people who have no idea what they're doing.

iceman69510
(Turn Right Racing)
11/11/15 02:38 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting prove_it:

You missed the line about an aftermarket evo 8 core then. It's there.




Whoops. Distracted by the sausage and egg McMuffins I guess.


G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
11/11/15 04:11 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looks good, i'd definitely buy one of those j-pipes for my measly 16g. My outlet is ported though so i'd have to measure the id for a custom one. I'd also want mine to extend out more towards the support since I have an afco rad. As far away from exh mani as possible.

BENE38A
(Slanging Kiwi parts)
11/12/15 12:07 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

setup looks great

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
11/27/15 09:41 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Now that the car is making substantially more power on E85, I'm beginning to find some weak points. A launch at the track twisted off one of the 3 bolt axles in the rear diff.



Thanks to Anthony's awesome writeup, I was able to swap a 4 bold LSD into the 3 bolt diff housing. I wanted to get the car rolling around again before the winter, as there's a few more things I want to try and accomplish before I tear it down for the winter. I'm planing to drop the whole rear subframe this winter and recondition everything, as well as strip and undercoat the whole undercarriage. I'm still torn on whether or not to keep my 4WS, so for now, I just did a quick diff swap to get the car up and running again.

Started with new 4 bolt axle cups



4 bolt rear



3 bolt diff and 4 bolt LSD diff




4 bolt LSD assembled with bearings and 4WS drive gear



4 bolt LSD installed in the 3 bolt pumpkin



4 bolt axles



Done



Buttoned everything up and took it for a test drive. It seems like it drives pretty much like before. The car still bitches when I make tight turns, or reverse while turning. The only difference is now, it seems like the LSD makes a little noise, rather than the wheels chirping and hopping. It only happens at super low speed with the wheels cut hard, which leads me to believe it's just another symptom of doing shit to the car you're not supposed to; like welding the center diff. Took it for a drive on the highway and it's silent, as I'd expect. Overall, it was a pretty easy swap, and hopefully this keeps me from snapping axles in the future.


prove_it
(my racist jokes aren't actually funny)
11/28/15 01:15 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

IIRC, in the mitsu service manual it does say not to weld up trans parts...


I'm surprised you didn't make the swap to an EVO rear diff.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
01/14/16 10:40 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Got the new radiator in.



New SPAL "High Performance" 12" fan. This one is rated at 1600cfm, and has a more sturdy design. We'll see how it works out.





I used a combination of solid mounts and the push through ties to install the fans. Everything fits much better, and is much more secure.






First impressions: this setup moves a shit ton of air, but I won't get a real feel for how this performs until this summer. I can definitely tell it puts more of a load on the electrical system than previously, though. I think I may need to look into installing a high output alternator.


viktor4g37
(Newbie)
01/15/16 07:05 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Where is the filler cup of the radiator? and how to pour antifreeze now?

iceman69510
(Turn Right Racing)
01/15/16 08:19 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Viktor, you can see the filler cap on the thermostat housing right at the end of the valve cover (toward bottom of picture). This is the style used on Eclipse 1g.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
02/15/16 10:19 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I got the privilege of meeting Pot in person this past weekend. Hands down, one of the nicest and most knowledgeable Galant guys I've ever met. Pot came by my place with a large order of parts, and in typical Pot fashion, far exceeded my expectations.

We got to shoot the shit a bit over some beers, and even went out and gave 1837 a good flogging. Right as we left my house, I was complaining to Pot about how much of a piece of shit my trans was as I banged the car through a few gears. Apparently, the trans didn't like that. On the return trip home I slammed 3rd, then back to 4th, then nothing. The car is now forever stuck in 4th. I was pretty upset; not because the car was broken, but because I didn't even run Pot through a good launch! Maybe next time I guess.

The shifter arms are moving at the trans, but the gears ain't changing. My guess would be busted 3-4 shift rail or fork. I guess I should be grateful the trans busted during a test beat with a friend, not during one of the 50 passes I made at the track this past year. It's all about perspective, I suppose


89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
03/31/16 10:16 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

So what's new with the turd?

badams
(Bungie Battery)
04/01/16 09:17 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Jack stand ballin, like most others

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/01/16 09:15 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting 89Patches:

So what's new with the turd?




Just working on some more maintenance stuff and another round of upgrades. Hopefully it's running by this weekend.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/04/16 08:38 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I started modding/building 1837 back in February of 2014, well before I was ready. I found issues with the car what threw me into building way before I had ever planned to. As a result, the build was unbalanced, and lacked the quality and finish I always envisioned my car having. Since my time and money aren't as plentiful as I wish they were, I had to build as both allowed.

I've been stacking parts and making plans for 1837 well over a year now. The plan all along was to eventually throw the built motor back in the car once I put it together like I wanted. In addition, I wanted the build to be balanced and well rounded overall, and I told myself I wouldn't tear back into the car until I had a parts stack that would allow for that. I busted the trans (which was always a piece of shit) last February when Pot was here. Since the car needed a trans, I figured that was my queue to get my ass in gear and start turning my parts pile into something tangible. Below is about 3 months worth of documentation/work.




So, let's rip this bitch out





I started the motor build with:
6 bolt block punched out 20 over
Stock uncut crank
ARP head and main studs
Ross 2G 85.5mm 8.3:1 forged aluminum pistons
King XP tri-metal racing series main & rod Bearing Set
Eagle H-beam rods sized for a 22mm wrist pin









Verified my measured oil clearances with Plastigauge. They're set a tad on the loose side at .003" right where I wanted them. Also checked the crank end play, which ended up right at .005".








Then checked the ring end gap, ringed the pistons, hung the rods, installed new Spirolox and bearings, and banged them in the bores.








All new hardware for EVERYTHING. OEM BSE, OEM tensioner, Gates belts and pulleys, front case with straight cut gears, etc, etc.








I decided to go with a OEM composite head gasket this time. I also installed ARP head studs and new alignment dowels.









Piece of shit Magnus manifold started leaking again last season (second time since I've had it). So, I had a local shop re-weld the runners. We'll see where it starts leaking next...





Next, I installed the new 2G pickup tube.






Then, hot coated all the exhaust parts and bolted the new 68HTA setup together. After that, I installed new exhaust manifold studs and bolted on the turbo assembly.









So, I needed an oil pressure gauge, but ran out of places to put gauges while not cluttering up the interior. So, I just hacked up the cluster and put it in there. It turned out pretty good, IMO.









Rebuilt the throttle body.






Also spent 1,000 hours sanding my valve cover so the paint would look decent.





Motor done.










Motor dropped in.






New Fuel Lab filter setup.





New BOV bolted up to the badass short route piping Sal @ Street Side Motorsports made for me.








Final product.







Sooooo after all that, yesterday, I primed the motor, topped off the fluids and did a preliminary compression test. I got 150 psi on cylinders 4 and 3. In the process of testing number 2, the compression tester hose exploded. I guess that's a good sign. I finished the test with the little stopper insert, and got 150 psi across the board. I kicked on the fuel pump via ECMlink to check for leaks, and all good there as well. So, I cranked up the motor and it fired right up. The car ran great! I wanted to finish the breaking today, but it rained. Go figure. I'll update this again soon when the motor either blows up, or breaks in just fine. Least if it blows up, I'll know who fucked something up

The car isn't done, and I'm not sure it will ever be. But I'm happy with the current status of the build. As long as it end up running as good as it looks, I'll be satisfied for now. Additionally, I needed to get done with 1837 so I can shift my focus to 820 and 1546. Both of those builds need some serious work.

I'm in the process of updating the mod list in my showcase to reflect all the changes I've made to 1837. Questions, comments, feedback welcomed.


marvinmadman
(Senior Member)
04/04/16 08:59 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looks awesome. Just missing a couple injectors

transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
04/04/16 10:53 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

my goodness, the car is amazing. love love love it dude

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/05/16 08:51 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Thanks for the positive feedback, guys.

The weather cleared up today, so I got to take the car out and finish the break in. I put about 20 miles on the motor, and it ran flawlessly. After the short drive, I brought it back home, checked for leaks and did an oil change.

The car is completely leak free, except for a tiny leak where the oil feed line meets the CHRA. I'll guess I'll have to give the fitting another 1/4 turn or so. Everything else is dry as a bone, which is nice.

The oil looked great, and I cut open the filter, which looked great as well. No metal or any other shit, just super clean.



Everything suggests the motor is in good health, so I guess it's ready for flogging now. We'll see how long it takes to break it.

The only other issue I noticed was the trans. I put in a new rebuilt trans, and the gears and synchros feel great. But shifting still feels notchy as fuck. And now, the car is being a bitch when I try to shift into 5th or reverse. At this point, I'm pretty confident the issue is with my shifter cables, or the shifter itself. I'll start by trying to make some adjustments to the cables, and check the shifter stops to see if they are interfering. If that doesn't work, I think I'll swap my JNZ short shifter out with a stock one just to see what happens.

I've read the manual on how to adjust the cables, and it's not terribly intuitive. It sounds like a guess and check kinda thing, which sucks balls. If any of you guys have figured out a way to adjust the cables and ended up with good results, let me know what you did.

Here's a short video of the car running: click


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
04/05/16 11:09 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Garbage.

transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
04/05/16 11:26 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

when i swap a trans out i hook everything up except for the cable ends to the shifter linkage(lay them next to it, then i go into the car and set the shifter to left/right center and a smidgen back(only a hair), then go out to the engine bay and see how far off the ends of the cables are, adjust the shifter cables inside the car until the cable ends slide on and off the linkage without moving the shifter inside the car from its centered position. i can usually get it in the first try with a slight adjustment as needed once the cables are on the shifter linkage, i have to readjust because i have skateboard bearings on my shifter cable ends instead of bushings and sometime it slightly moves.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/06/16 07:57 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting turbowop:

Garbage.




What ever happened to chutter?


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
04/06/16 12:47 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

That too

Gizmovr4
(Member +)
04/06/16 09:11 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I love how clean everything is! Great attention to detail ! Well done sir

ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
04/08/16 10:50 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Jesus man. Impressive work there. Seems about perfect now. It all really came together, and the airbox really grew on me.

I'm interested to see how the car likes the 68HTA vs. the bastard 20g.


NYC86ZC
(30-Something)
04/09/16 08:24 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looks great. Nice pics and commentary.

tektic
(Senior Member)
04/09/16 08:54 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I wish I used a graphite gasket. Were the main studs in there before or just added? No mention of a line hone. Also what's the first impression of that bov? No cam timing? Everything looks the part. Good job.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/09/16 09:58 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

The block was line honed for the studs, and the cams were degreed. The BOV is awesome so far.

fuel
("Just to be pedantic!")
04/10/16 10:18 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

curious to know why the bores weren't honed in the process?

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/10/16 10:44 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

The rings weren't new.

G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
04/11/16 11:29 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting GSTwithPSI:

Thanks for the positive feedback, guys.

The weather cleared up today, so I got to take the car out and finish the break in. I put about 20 miles on the motor, and it ran flawlessly. After the short drive, I brought it back home, checked for leaks and did an oil change.

The car is completely leak free, except for a tiny leak where the oil feed line meets the CHRA. I'll guess I'll have to give the fitting another 1/4 turn or so. Everything else is dry as a bone, which is nice.

The oil looked great, and I cut open the filter, which looked great as well. No metal or any other shit, just super clean.

I've been using these magnets on all my oil filters and they def work. click They can be re-used indefinitely. Here are a few pics of a filter after the first oil change since installing on my landy. You'd be surprised what's in your oil! The metal shavings on the actual magnets are from when I cut open the filter with a dremel.









GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/12/16 10:00 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

G, thanks for the suggestion. I think I'll order a set of those.




The motor was running great, so I decided to do a little tuning. I needed to start with adding some fuel, since my WB was reading around a point too lean. I set my knock light to two counts, and made a pull. The car pulled clean to redline, with no knock. I zeroed out the boost controller, so the car was on waste gate pressure, which ended up topping out right at 17 psi. Even at 17 psi, my first impression was the 68HTA wanted to pull way past redline, whereas the 16G variants I've had on the car previously would choke up top and drop off peak boost. The car felt really strong, and I was super happy with how it was running.

That's when I had a little hiccup. Mistake #1, not paying attention to the dash...




Next thing I know, the car dies, and I coast to a stop. I cranked it over, no compression.

So, I towed it home and roll the motor over by hand. The cams line up perfect, but the crank is way off. I pull the head, and as expected, I got 8 bent valves out of the deal. Cool. Here are some pics of the carnage.







The pistons were alright. I cleaned them up a bit, and said fuck it, since at this point I had nothing to lose.






Then, pulled a spare head off the shelf and swapped it in.







I couldn't source an HKS intake cam on short notice, so I decided to swap a stock set back in. Jesus, I forgot how good the car idled before I swapped in the 272s! It purrs like a kitten.

Anyways, after a short hiatus after the long hiatus, the car is back in action.

Next up, making the swap back to E85, and seeing what the 68HTA is capable of.


89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
04/12/16 10:47 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

So what caused the timing to jump?

G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
04/12/16 11:45 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

That sucks man. Post some pics of your filter after your first oil change. Curious to what you will catch. I haven't changed my oil yet on my galant. Scared to see what i will find lol.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/13/16 08:01 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting 89Patches:

So what caused the timing to jump?




When the valves hit it jumped. What initially caused that I'm not entirely sure. I reviewed the log after it happened, and saw a ton of knock. That was the only event that occurred between the car running great and it dying


MellowVR4
(5" too short)
04/13/16 08:15 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

DAMN, You just put this thing back together too! oh well. That's how we all learn and get better and what we do with our cars.

faqinshiet
(Member +)
04/13/16 09:10 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Damn! Sorry Brett! I wish I had your skills!

iceman69510
(Turn Right Racing)
04/13/16 10:06 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting GSTwithPSI:

Quoting 89Patches:

So what caused the timing to jump?




When the valves hit it jumped. What initially caused that I'm not entirely sure. I reviewed the log after it happened, and saw a ton of knock. That was the only event that occurred between the car running great and it dying




Hmmm, doesn't seem likely unless you have some clearance issues or timing was not on. There should not be any chance of contact with proper clearances and timing. Had to jump first for valves to hit.


marvinmadman
(Senior Member)
04/13/16 11:46 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Belt slack combined with pre detonation?

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/13/16 05:04 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting iceman69510:

Hmmm, doesn't seem likely unless you have some clearance issues or timing was not on. There should not be any chance of contact with proper clearances and timing. Had to jump first for valves to hit.




I agree, iceman. I can't wrap my head around what happened. I suppose PTV clearance could have been an issue. Admittedly, I didn't check it when I assembled the motor. In addition, my intake cam wound up being 4 degrees advanced after I degreed the cams, so whatever the PTV clearance was inevitably got reduced. Even if that was the case though, I don't see how the car can run perfectly one minute, and eat all 8 intake valves the next. If PTV clearance was the issue, I'd think it would have bent all 8 valves on first start.

Regarding the timing, I'm positive the car was perfectly in time, and the belt was tensioned properly. I can say that confidently because A) I've done more 4G63 timing belt jobs than I can count and B) I verified it was good when I degreed the camshafts. There were no failed timing components, and nothing to suggest something failed and caused the belt to lose tension. Hell, even after the valves got bent, the belt was still tensioned perfectly. And, if the belt lost tension I think the cams would have been out of phase as well as the crank. But, when I lined up the marks after the incident, the cams were still in time but the crank was out.

There's only one event that sticks out between the car running fine and the valves getting bent, which was a shit ton of knock. How that causes what happened, I have no idea. All I know is it was good before then, which leads me to believe the detonation either caused a problem, or exacerbated an existing one. Those are pretty much all the facts I know, which I fully admit, still don't add up to bent valves.

Taking what I've outline above into consideration, I'd appreciate your (or anyone's) input. I'd would just be nice to know what happened at this point. This forced me to go back to stock cams in lieu of being able to find a replacement HKS unit on short notice, and honestly, I like driving the car a million times better now. Much like I despise my welded diff because of how it kills driveability, I'm feeling much of the same way about the HKS 272s...

...I'm wondering if the natural willingness to sacrifice performance for driveability is the true sign of getting old

I know for damn sure if this car was used for a DD and didn't sit in the garage 99% of the time, I'd get rid of both.


G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
04/13/16 05:49 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

From my experience the 272's are fine for DD duty. They idle great and don't cause the engine to stall at all.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/13/16 07:22 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I'd strongly disagree with them idling "great". Least, they didn't in any of my cars. Then again, I've always used them on MAF based setups, which I think is part of the issue. I've been told by a few guys idle with cams is much easier to sort out on SD. I've always struggled with getting the car to idle decent, not stall, etc, on the 272s. I didn't change a single thing with the tune after swapping from the 272s back to the stock cams, and the car suddenly idles absolutely flawless. It doesn't stall, and also doesn't have trouble when bogged down under an electrical load like when the fan kicks on. If someone has a log of 272s idling "great" on a MAF I'd love to see it and take a few notes.

I've feel like I've tried everything trying to get those cams to idle: I boost leak checked, dicked with the tune, adjusted the BISS, rebuilt the TB, etc, etc. My idle wasn't horrible, but I was never satisfied with the driveability, especially after driving 820 which is super tame and runs perfect. I'm convinced the 272s are one of those "can't have your cake and eat it too" situations, but maybe it's just something I'm doing wrong.

The car actually feels really good on stock cams. On the 272s, I had zero low end power off boost compared to what the stock cams feel like. Not to mention, they should help spool the 8cm 68HTA, which has been getting a lot of negative feedback about being laggy. Strangely, I'm not noticing the choking up top like I expected. I'm guessing the large turbine housing is helping with that a bit, and it's much less pronounced than it probably would be on my old bastard 20G.


89Patches
(I <3 AMS)
04/13/16 07:32 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Did you break the crank sprocket in half? Had it happen twice now with different cars or the woodruff key broke, never seen that on a 4G though. Worth a look. Also willing to bet that "knock" in your logs is the pistons introducing themselves to the valves. If none of the timing shit is broken, it well sounds like ya fucked up on the timing side of things homeslice. Knock doesn't doesn't cause your t-belt to jump, normally it puts a window in ya block!

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/13/16 08:01 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

The crank sprocket looked fine when I installed the new timing belt this last time.

Far as the log showing the piston contact as knock, I guess that's possible. Also possible I fucked up the timing, but IDK. Does the initial video of the car idling sound like the timing is off to you? Not arguing, just asking.

I've also got a log of the one knock free pull I made before I trashed the head. Logged ~400hp on 18psi (wastegate pressure). Not saying that's legit hp, but not sure that'd be possible on a car with fucked timing, yanno? I can post the entire log if it maters:



turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
04/13/16 08:16 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Regarding idling with 272's, I've never had an issue with mine causing stalling or anything of the sort. That goes for both my old 2gMAF based setup, SD on MaftPro, and SD on ECMlink. Just the obvious lope that comes with them.

That sucks it happened, dude. I feel like you've had the motor out of that car like ten times now. I've never even had mine out once.


fuel
("Just to be pedantic!")
04/13/16 08:23 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

could the timing of the cam sprockets have changed - ie screws not tightened up enough?

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/13/16 08:24 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Good to know about the cams, Mark. Your FIAV deleted? How's the car on cold starts? That's when I had the most issues, which I always attributed to the FIAV being blocked.

I didn't need to pull the motor this last time. There was nothing wrong with the one that was in it. But, 1546 needs a motor, so this was a kill two birds with one stone deal.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/13/16 08:26 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting fuel:

could the timing of the cam sprockets have changed - ie screws not tightened up enough?




Funny, but that actually happened to me before. Caused me to pull a good motor out of 1837, in fact. That was one of the first things I checked, and the cam gears were good to go, right where I had set them.


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
04/13/16 08:51 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Yeah, my FIAV is blocked off. Car fires up fine when cold. The ISC does just enough idle-up to keep it running until it warms up.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/13/16 09:24 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Damn. I've had 272s in 3 separate cars, and they've never been what I'd call tame or idle good. Then again, I fucking hate having a welded diff too, which I've heard others say they don't mind in their DD. Maybe it's just me?

What's truly mind blowing is you and G actually agree on something

And where's Donnie at? I think he pulls the motor out of his car like once a year for maintenance or some shit?


G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
04/13/16 09:55 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

My 272's are currently on sd, but have had a pair on a maf a long time ago on an old dsm and they idled great on both setups. Great drive-ability, no stalling and great on cold starts as well. My fiav is gone as well, but on the old dsm I still had it. I love them, the only thing I would trade them for is a pair of jun 280's which are just silly.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/13/16 10:02 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I was thinking about possibly grabbing a set of HKS 264s next.

G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
04/13/16 10:06 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

264's are great as well. A little cleaner idle for sure.

turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
04/14/16 12:46 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I also hate my welded center diff. But since I don't daily the car, it doesn't bother me enough to have it swapped out with a 4-spider.

As for the 272s, it must just be the great PNW.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/16/16 07:59 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Drove the turd to work Thursday and Friday just to get some miles on the new setup. Put on some highway miles and plenty of stop and go; the car didn't seem to mind either. Not a single squeak or leak so far. I'm at ~200 miles on the build now.

I think I'm in the clear, so stopped and filled up with E85. Hoping to have the car off of wastegate pressure and dialed in this weekend.


Yohler
(Junior Member)
04/16/16 10:58 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looking good. You ever find the cause of the valves meeting their maker?

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/17/16 04:54 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

No, I didn't.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/07/16 09:37 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I just finished some updates to the car to support the new turbo on E85. I started with the fuel system. I upgraded to FIC 1150's, fresh from FIC all cleaned and flow tested.






Then, I replaced the Walbro 255 with an Aeromotive 340 E85 stealth pump. I was pretty happy to see my home grown terminals on the pump hanger holding up great! There was no corrosion in the fuel tank, fuel rail, or the lines. Also, the FIC 1050's I pulled out of the car were super clean. No black goo whatsoever.







I've been experiencing a tiny bit of ignition breakup at redline on the new turbo. I figured my tired junkyard coils and old COP setup could use updating. So, I ordered all new stuff. Apparently there are some guys running iridium plugs on high boost cars with great results, so per their suggestions, I figured I'd give them a try. I think the last time I used iridium plugs was like 2007, and have sworn by the copper cores ever since. Results TBD...







I got everything all wired up and slapped the new COP setup on the car. I also installed some new reservoir caps to go with all the bling.








I wanted to take the car out for a good test beat, but I found out today my alternator is taking a dump. So, I'll get one on order and hopefully get to see how all this new shit works in the next week or so. Also decided to make the jump to SD, just not sure when...


badams
(Bungie Battery)
05/07/16 10:28 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

what a rust bucket.....

CheapTalon
(Member)
05/07/16 10:58 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

This car needs a Magnus fuel rail like yesterday. All that pretty stuff and then the doo-doo stock rail.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/07/16 11:52 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

^ Buy one for me and I'll run it.

badams
(Bungie Battery)
05/08/16 12:06 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

doo doo stick

bradrs
(Member)
05/08/16 12:45 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Iridiums can help. But

Are you running the COP directly from the PTU? Or do you have a CD ignition somewhere?


BENE38A
(Slanging Kiwi parts)
05/08/16 03:05 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

That car is so tidy! Great job

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/08/16 07:28 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting bradrs:

Iridiums can help. But

Are you running the COP directly from the PTU? Or do you have a CD ignition somewhere?




Hey, Brad. No CDI.

I actually swapped back to a stock coil and wires to try and fix the issue, but the car ran better on the COP. If this doesn't fix the problem, I'll pick up an ARC2.

BTW, which model do you recommend for these cars?


faqinshiet
(Member +)
05/08/16 09:19 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Nice parts! I actually got the same fuel pump couple weeks ago! Hey Brett how is the turbosmart bov?

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/08/16 10:47 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

So far, I'm not terribly fond of the turbosmart BOV as it's currently configured. It's too hard for part throttle driving. If you're giving the car mild on/off throttle inputs just right, the car wants to hesitate a bit because the BOV want's to be either all open or all closed. Otherwise, it's completely fine. It definitely holds large amounts of boost without an issue.

I'm going to get a softer spring, and see if it improves part throttle response. There are 3 springs available :

Blue: Vacum High -13InHg, Vacum Low -3 In Hg
Green: Vacum High -19InHg, Vacum Low -9In Hg
Pink: Vacum High -24InHg, Vacum Low -14In Hg

The Kompact Series BOVs come shipped with the "green" spring, which is supposed to be middle of the road according to the information above. I'm going the order the softer "blue" spring and see if that works any better.


faqinshiet
(Member +)
05/08/16 02:39 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Awesome thanks for the info! I will probably end up getting one!

bradrs
(Member)
05/08/16 07:53 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting GSTwithPSI:


Hey, Brad. No CDI.

I actually swapped back to a stock coil and wires to try and fix the issue, but the car ran better on the COP. If this doesn't fix the problem, I'll pick up an ARC2.

BTW, which model do you recommend for these cars?




On the bench, with all good stock parts, the stock stuff really seems to work better than COP. That doesn't always translate to the same results on a car. Plug wires, plugs, or coils can all cause the stock parts to perform worse. Some people say the stock stuff works better than COP, others say the COP is better. But it is a small improvement either way. To get a LOT more out of the ignition, you'd need to replace the PTU and coils, go to some custom smart coil, or use a CDI.

As for which model ARC-2 for these, I am not 100% sure. For any later model eclipse, the plug n play is designed to simplify the install. The tach adapter built in helps to fool the PTU and ECU into thinking everything is working like stock. It's a no brainer.

I think looking at the 90 eclipse, it didn't matter since it uses a different connector, and the tach adapter didn't help. That would be the determining factor. I think the Galant has a PTU like the 91-99 eclipse, right? The tach adapter works to trick the 91-99 PTU into putting out the right tach signal.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/13/16 09:10 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I got the new alternator installed today. I decided to go with the 90 amp (AL4008X) Bosch unit since my old Autozone unit was shitting out. Once I got it in the car, I noticed my voltages were much more stable than before. They stay right around 14V all the way to redline.







After I was confident the car was charging properly, I went out and did a few pulls to dial it in a bit better. Between the new alternator, and working with the tune a bit, the car doesn't seem to be breaking up anymore. It's on about 25 pounds of boost currently, and feels really strong. I think tomorrow I'll pull the plugs and close the gaps up a bit, and then try and get to 30 psi. I also need to work on the spool up tuning some, but overall I'm happy with how it's running.



Full 3rd gear pull log


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/14/16 05:09 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Rolled 600 or so miles on the new build, so figured it was time to do another oil change and see how healthy the motor is. I drained the oil into a clean pan, and it looked good. So, then I pulled the filter and sliced it open for an inspection. The filter looked great, metal free and super clean.





I also did a compression test, and was extremely pleased with the results. 175-180 psi across the board on a cold motor.








I regaped the plugs to .018 and put the car back together. It runs GREAT. With the car in good shape mechanically, it was time to scrub off all the bugs I slaughtered doing 3rd gear tuning pulls.




All clean










mbohling
(Newbie)
05/14/16 08:58 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Great looking car! Keep up the good work

FlyingEagle
(Doesn't Match Anything)
05/15/16 08:02 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

So, when do some of the screen shots become cover material at the entrance screen to the ORG? wink wink

Damn !!!


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/22/16 06:58 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I swapped a 4 bolt LSD into the 4WS pumpkin last year, and all was good. In the last few weeks though, I've noticed some noise coming from the rear diff. It was strange, because it only happened when I was taking off from a stop at super low RPM after when the diff gets warm. If the car was cold, it wouldn't do it. So, instead of fucking with the ring and pinion, I just decided to swap in another 4 bolt. In addition, I came to the realization that I hate how the 4WS makes the car feel so unsettled in a high speed sweeper, so I figured now was the time to delete all that crap.

I'll start out by saying I was on a tight timeline to get this done. I've got too many projects, and not enough time and space to tend to them all. I would have liked to weld the trailing arms and install new subframe bushings, but I just didn't have the luxury of waiting around on parts for this particular project. Not to mention, I would have also liked to completely delete all the 4WS crap, but again, didn't have the time to pull the car apart and remove all the bits. I'd chalk this up as a sudo-4WS delete for lazy/busy people.

There is one main concern when deleting the 4WS (if you ask me anyways), which is deciding what to do with the high pressure output lines that run to the rear rack. I found the easiest solution was to just plug the lines right where they dip down from the rack under the car. I came up with a quick and easy solution for this, which basically entailed hacking off the end of the hydraulic line, and converting the fitting into a plug. I was unable to find a legit plug anywhere, so as far as I know, this is your only option.



Here's the feed lines where they dip down below the car. Take the soft hydraulic lines loose, and remove them from the car. Have a pan handy, because these are going to piss power steering fluid everywhere...A lot of PS fluid.




Once the line is off the car, hack off the end with a grinding wheel. Once you do, you should have a steel fitting that's ready to weld. Take a welder and just tack the center closed. Once it's welded closed, you've now got a nice little plug to cap the PS lines off with.










After the lines were capped off, I dropped the rear subframe, and removed all the other 4WS crap. I left the return lines in place, since they snake all the way up under the hood, and deleting them completely would be a major ass pain. I just used a small piece of hose and loop them together at the rear of the car.






Now, the crappy part. CLEAN EVERYTHING. I used a wire wheel, Simple Green, and tons of elbow grease. The subframe got cleaned and rust proofed. The underbody got cleaned as well, then got Rust Bullet, then rubberized undercoating. The Rust Bullet really wasn't required since there wasn't any actual rust to treat, but I've found it to be super durable, and prefer it for coating parts under the chassis.











After everything was dry, I bolted in the subframe.






Lastly, removed all the 4WS decals so I wouldn't be a poser.






I still have a few things left to button up. I need to install the axles, brakes, exhaust and suspension. I got tired of crawling around on the ground like some kind of retarded fat snake though, so it will have to wait until next week.

Time for a beer!


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
05/22/16 07:13 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

When I did basically all that same work, I also removed the 4WS sticker on the back window. I wish I hadn't now, as it was a cool aspect of the car, even having removed the functionality. Oh well.

Looks good.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/22/16 07:23 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

If I would have known how much of a bitch it was going to be to remove the window decal, I would have left it be. I started chipping away at the corner, and realized that thing was really on there. But, by that time it was too late, and it all had to go.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/24/16 09:52 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting GSTwithPSI:

I swapped a 4 bolt LSD into the 4WS pumpkin last year, and all was good. In the last few weeks though, I've noticed some noise coming from the rear diff. It was strange, because it only happened when I was taking off from a stop at super low RPM after when the diff gets warm. If the car was cold, it wouldn't do it. So, instead of fucking with the ring and pinion, I just decided to swap in another 4 bolt.







Yeah...Well turns out the rear end wasn't my problem after all.


Yohler
(Junior Member)
05/24/16 10:00 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Ouch. Some bad luck lately it seems. You planning to rebuild the whole thing or just repair that U joint?

strokin4dr
(fighting them with a large needle)
05/24/16 10:28 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I wouldn't call it bad luck. Just motivation for a much needed refresh on that old driveshaft.

I'm sure it will be riding smooth after this fix!


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/24/16 10:29 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting Yohler:

You planning to rebuild the whole thing or just repair that U joint?




Neither




Quoting strokin4dr:

I wouldn't call it bad luck. Just motivation for a much needed refresh on that old driveshaft.

I'm sure it will be riding smooth after this fix!




Yeah, I can't really be mad. After dozens of passes at the track, I'm surprised the old U joint lasted that long. I'm just glad I found the problem. I buttoned the car up late last night, but didn't go for a drive until today. I jump in today and went for a quick spin, and the noise was worse. I was thinking the rear end may need to come back out, or worse, the trans. I was relieved to find the U joint trashed, but also a bit horrified. That thing was hanging on by a thread.


strokin4dr
(fighting them with a large needle)
05/24/16 10:34 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Ballin!!

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/28/16 09:29 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I started looking at my options to repair my driveshaft, and came to the conclusion an OEM rebuild just isn't worth the time and effort to me. After pricing out what it would cost to do the rebuild, I decided to go with a DSS aluminum unit. For a little under $300 bucks extra, I could not only upgrade to the DSS shaft, but more importantly, eliminate over half of the work it takes to do rebuild the OEM shaft. The extra work the OEM R&R requires was honestly the biggest influencing factor in upgrading. I still had to rebuild the back half of the OEM shaft, and after doing so, I'm so fucking glad I decided no to rebuild the whole thing. It's a a super time consuming and labor intensive task.

Here's the pricing breakdown:

DSS upgrade=
DSS 3.5" HD Aluminum driveshaft for the Galant VR-4: $767.48 shipped from ExtremePSI
1 transfer Case yoke kit (becuz 1 U-joint MR470072) and 1 carrier bearing (1G DSM/GVR4 MB505495): $142.31 shipped from JNZtuning

Total: 909.79 (actual price paid, shipping included)


OEM rebuild=
Driveshaft rebuild kit (1G DSM/Galant VR4): $382.48
OEM lobro joint kit-DSM & Galant VR-4 (becuz the boot kit alone is basically NLA MB837300) $245.99

Total: 628.47 (Shipping/tax/whatever NOT included)

So, as I said, it was only going to cost me a little under $300 to upgrade. Now, if your lobro joint and boot is in good shape, you can save another $250 bucks, at which point an OEM rebuild is looking more financially beneficial. However, if you're like me and just need a new boot, you're fucked, since the boot kits alone are NLA. So, you're either going to have to be fine with the the lobro throwing grease everywhere and getting trashed in the process from contamination, or you're buying a new lobro joint...That $900 bucks sounding better yet, or naw?

Moving on to the time factor; any way you cut it, an OEM rebuild sucks balls. It took me approximately 2 hours to completely clean and rebuild the rear shaft alone. I also have a press, air tools, and everything required to make the job go quickly. That's for 1 U-joint and 1 carrier. I'd say you're looking at nearly triple that time for the entire shaft, assuming you have a nicely equipped garage.

With the DSS, you rebuild the rear shaft, bolt it in the car, then bolt the DSS shaft to the rear shaft via DSS's adapter plate. Done. The only other thing I'll mention here is the DSS shaft is 3.5" in diameter. If you have aftermarket exhaust on your Galant and it's anywhere near the factory driveshaft, you're going to run into clearance issues. I'm running the 3" CM performance exhaust system, and I slightly clearanced my cat and the down/mid pipe flange. If you're running a home brew system the snakes close to the OEM shaft, I'd highly recommend you taking some measurements prior to buying the DSS shaft.



Anyways, here are some pics of the new DS and the other stuff required to do the conversion:








Here's the OEM shaft compared to the DSS aluminum unit. The rear 3rd OEM shaft is reused:








Now that you've got the stock shaft out, you need to separate the new U-joint from the T-case yolk. Rinse and repeat x2 if you're rebuilding the OEM shaft.





Once you've got all your parts together, it's just a matter of cleaning and reassembly. The one thing I'll mention with this is the U-joint snap rings. It can be a pain to get 2 snap rings of the proper thickness to seat. You obviously don't want the U-joint super tight, nor do you want it all limp dick. Finding a happy medium with the limited amount of snap rings you're provided can be a challenge, and the trial and error associated with this is probably the most time consuming part of the job. Jafro has an awesome video series on this whole process, and I'd highly recommend watching it if this is your first time screwing with the DS: DSM Drivetrain & Clutch Tech by Jafro

2 hours later, here's what you get:






So, how does the new driveshaft feel and perform you ask?!?

Couldn't fucking tell ya.

The driveshaft was drop shipped from DSS, and they sent me the wrong god damn adapter plate. So, all the parts I had expedited to finish the job THIS WEEKEND was just time, money, and effort wasted. Although, I hear it's pretty common for DSS to screw things like this up, so whateves. Hell, another week JSB status is small time shit anyways. Nobody buys a VR-4 because they actually want to drive it

I'll update the thread when (or if) I ever get the right adapter plate.


bazeng
(pondering trannies)
05/28/16 03:31 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

What's wrong with that plate?
Slightly off?

I got mine with it as a separate item.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/28/16 03:37 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

The adapter plate bolt holes do not line up with the bolt holes on the pinion flange for the third section of the factory driveshaft closest to differential. I looked on DSS's website, and the adapter I received is clearly different from the one pictured for the Galant/DSM.

faqinshiet
(Member +)
05/28/16 04:24 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Awesome I will have to look into this. I want to get a dss shaft one of these days. Will be watching closely!

brisvr4
(Oceania Distict Enforcer for the Galant VR4 Mafia)
05/28/16 09:41 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting GSTwithPSI:

The adapter plate bolt holes do not line up with the bolt holes on the pinion flange for the third section of the factory driveshaft closest to differential. I looked on DSS's website, and the adapter I received is clearly different from the one pictured for the Galant/DSM.




What is the part number stamped on your adaptor Brett.
I have the same driveshaft kit and mine is stamped MIPL1 same as listed on their site.
I haven't pulled the rear section of the stock one yet but I'm hoping mine is correct!


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
05/28/16 11:02 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Funny you should ask, there isn't one on mine. However, in the pictures on DSS's website, the part # you're stating is the one pictured on the adapter they list for the DSM.

Here's the one they sent me:



And here's the one on their website listed for the DSM. Notice the completely different bolt pattern to flange design, and also the part number that's present, yet not present on mine: click


brisvr4
(Oceania Distict Enforcer for the Galant VR4 Mafia)
05/28/16 11:46 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looks like I got lucky!



GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/09/16 11:06 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

First, big thanks to Tim for helping me get things sorted. I had some issues getting the correct adapter from DSS, who sent the wrong one initially. For this specific transaction, I wasn't terribly satisfied with the customer service I received from either DSS or from ExtremePSI, who I originally placed the order with. But, I got the right parts eventually, which I guess is what matters in the end. If any of you guys are ordering a DSS driveshaft in the future, shoot me a PM prior and I'll make sure you get the correct info for the correct parts from the jump. Here's the adapter I was initially sent. Looks like a good fit, right?





Anyways, after I got the right adapter plate, installation was a breeze. DSS truly makes a nice product:










The DSS driveshaft performs just as you would expect. It's velvety smooth, zero vibration, and feels great overall. Honestly, I've noticed very little difference between this and the stock driveshaft. But, I haven't launched the car yet on the aluminum driveshaft yet, where I expect I'll actually feel the most difference.

There are definitely some downsides to the DSS piece. For starters, it's 3.5" in diameter, which means it will hit shit that your stock driveshaft didn't even come close to. For me, that meant trimming back some heat shielding and exhaust bits.

Secondly, and probably the most annoying, the DSS driveshaft is a 5+ foot long piece of hollow aluminum tubing...Which apparently means every tiny little noise your driveline made prior to installing this thing will be amplified a million times over. I had a slight tapping noise on decel only at low speed, and spent nearly 2 days trying to figure out what the hell it was. From inside the car, I swore it was the rear end. I ended up tracking it down to the trans itself, which seems to be a bit noisy on decel. I just never noticed it on the stock driveshaft. At first I was a bit worried, but after getting the car up on a lift, and inspecting the driveline while running it at speed in gear, there's absolutely no issues or vibrations. All the joints are tight, and the driveline is functioning as it should, but the audible harmonics amplified by the DSS driveshaft are very pronounced. Bottom line, expect a bit of noise unless your driveline is minty fresh.



After I got the car back together, the wifey and I took it to go grab a beer and a bite at this new place in the Island. Good stuff!


faqinshiet
(Member +)
06/10/16 10:17 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Looks great! ill send you a pm! Any idea of the weight difference?

Yohler
(Junior Member)
06/10/16 12:39 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quote:

This is our 3.5" aluminum drive shaft for the Galant VR-4. This shaft is designed to replace the first 2 shafts of the factory 3-piece system. They are made from 6061-T6 aluminum and 3.5" in diameter, it also includes a custom 7075-T6 aluminum plate to convert the CV back to a u-joint style end and bolt to the factory rear shaft section. The first 2 pieces of the stock shaft is 22lbs and our single is only 12lbs.




Looks good, exactly how much trimming did you have to do? I'd pretty much written off going this route and rebuilding mine since the carrier bearings are less than stellar, but after seeing your price breakdown it's fairly hard to argue against going this route.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/10/16 07:22 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I'll try and take some pictures. Basically I had to trim back the flanges where the midpipe/cat meet, and also the factory heat shielding on the underbelly of the car.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/26/16 09:31 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Not a terribly exciting update, but the more I wrench on this car, the more I realize it's the little things that bring the build full circle, and really set the car apart.

I picked up a new set of door decals from a seller on Ebay: click

His ad said he used 3M material, which I wanted. The decals were really high quality, and the color I picked looks absolutely amazing on the car. He even shipped a squeegee with the decals which was awesome. The only complaint I have was the decals were mirror images of one another, and that's not how they appear on the car from the factory. To fix this, you have to cut one of the decals, and place the "Intercooler Turbo" in front of the rest of the decal. I just copied the spacing from the correct decal, and used a small piece of tape to make everything line up. In the end, it turned out awesome:






Old stuff removed:





New stuff installed. I opted not to install the 4WS portion of the decal, since I deleted it from this car.





fuel
("Just to be pedantic!")
06/26/16 11:17 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

It seems the eBay seller used images of my car (without permission). Anyway, how the words appear on the eBay decals are identical to how they appear on my JDM car which had new decals from Mitsubishi Japan. So the seller has them in the correct order as per original JDM car.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/27/16 07:22 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Actually, Phil, now that you point that out, I think that's how the decals look on ALL Galants. I think the PO of 1837 just reversed it, which I just assumed was correct. All of the pictures I can find (USDM and JDM) show the decals pictured as you're describing.

So much for going out of my way to swap stuff all around to match the factory


fuel
("Just to be pedantic!")
06/27/16 07:09 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

oh well - still looks fantastic! The gold is somehow both bold and subtle.

turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
06/27/16 07:33 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I had been thinking about doing the decals in gold as well to match my wheels. You beat me to it.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/27/16 09:10 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting fuel:

oh well - still looks fantastic! The gold is somehow both bold and subtle.



Thanks, Paul. BTW, your car is doing a great job selling these


Quoting turbowop :

I had been thinking about doing the decals in gold as well to match my wheels. You beat me to it.



You still should. Just put them on correctly for a completely different look!


fuel
("Just to be pedantic!")
06/27/16 09:40 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000



GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/27/16 09:48 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000



Fuck, sorry dude (Phil). I always get you and Paul mixed up (Cheekychimp).


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
07/02/16 08:02 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

No matter how hard I tried, I couldn't really get the little line to show up on camera. You can just barely see it right at the 85% mark if you look really close.

I'm looking forward to testing the fuel at a few different stations, and also seeing how the winter blends in my area vary. For now, I'm glad I got decent juice in the tank!





The car has been running great. Just passed 1,000 miles on the motor. Next up, cams and making the swap to SD.


Yohler
(Junior Member)
07/03/16 12:14 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Have you considered getting a flex fuel sensor and running it through ECMlink so you can log it on the fly?

transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
07/03/16 07:48 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

just went through all the new post on all 3 cars and im jealous of all 3.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
07/03/16 10:43 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting Yohler:

Have you considered getting a flex fuel sensor and running it through ECMlink so you can log it on the fly?




Nah, the flex fuel sensor would be nice, but I don't really think it's needed for my build. I don't really drive the car enough for it to be worthwhile. As long as the E85 in the area keeps being consistent, I'll probably keep the car as it's configured.




Quoting transparentdsm:

just went through all the new post on all 3 cars and im jealous of all 3.




Thanks, Shane. Time, money, and patience. That all it takes


vr4hotness
(New Daddy)
07/08/16 06:27 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Very sexy car and build man, I love it

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
07/17/16 02:48 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Thanks for the positive feedback, guys. I appreciate it.

For the first time in a long time, 1837 has been virtually problem free for months now. I've rolled over 1,000 miles on the motor, and I've yet to have any issues with the car overall. Things are looking pretty good as far as making the Shootout this year (knock on wood*).

I recently added a pair of Recaro SRD buckets. I ordered sliders from Japan, and they work and fit awesome. They basically make the Recaro seats plug and play, and you can even retain the stock seat belts if your prefer to. I opted to go that route, since my Sabelt harnesses are out of date, and alone probably wouldn't pass tech at most tracks.

The brackets are made to order, and it probably took almost a month to get them:









Installed:







To sum it up, the new seats are awesome. I saved about 10 lbs per side compared to the stockers. The thing that's probably most noticeable about them is how much lower they locate the driving position. I'd guess you probably gain 2-4 inches of headroom with these seats. You definitely sit significantly lower in the car.

Of course, they feel and look great too, and are probably one of the nicest creature comforts I've ever added to the car.


G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
07/17/16 09:28 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Nice seats! Are those the vanner rails? I've been meaning to order a set but weren't sure if they were legit.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
07/17/16 09:36 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Here's all the details


iceman69510
(Turn Right Racing)
07/18/16 06:45 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

How much if I may ask? I am debating just getting the driver's side, as I have one old school Recaro it could use.

Gtpdz
(Member)
07/18/16 07:44 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Hmm this instruction is basically telling you that they offer proof of seat rail structal integrity for the Japanese car inspection for 1000 yen each....

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
07/18/16 10:14 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting iceman69510:

How much if I may ask? I am debating just getting the driver's side, as I have one old school Recaro it could use.




The brackets were fairly cheap @ ~$130 a piece. However, shipping for the pair was an additional $230. I've got a little under $500 bucks in the set. Given the quality, plug and play fitment, and being able to retain the stock seat belts, I think the price was fair.

The hardware to mount the buckets to the brackets was included. The hardware to mount the brackets to the car is reused, save new washers that are included for installation.




Quoting Gtpdz:

Hmm this instruction is basically telling you that they offer proof of seat rail structal integrity for the Japanese car inspection for 1000 yen each....



The Japanese car inspection is a no shit inspection, so that's reassuring information. Not that I really had any concerned to begin with. These definitely look the part of a quality built unit.


KiNgMaRtY
(Member +++)
07/19/16 01:38 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I like your new seats! What is you height, do you feel that you are too low now or are the gains beneficial for you? The prices on the rails are good, that shipping is killer though! Hard to beat plug and play though.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
07/19/16 01:48 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I'm right under 6' tall. Personally, I never had an issue before with the stock seat ride height, even when wearing a helmet in the car.

When I got the Recaros installed, it took a bit of getting used to after driving the car with stock seats for so long. Also, swapping between driving 820 and 1837 really puts into perspective how much lower the Recaros sit. After I got used to the new driving position, I actually prefer it. You feel so much more connected to the car, and obviously get tossed around less due to the lower overall center of gravity, and extra bolster support. The Recaros are much more comfortable as well, IMO. You could drive for hours in those seats and be more comfortable than you would even in the stock buckets, which I think are pretty comfortable.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/27/16 10:27 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I put almost 1,000 miles on 1837 driving to the Shootout and back, which puts me at a little over 2K miles on the new motor. Aside from being a little dirty from getting stuck in the rain on the return trip, there wasn't a single hiccup with the car. I was confident in the car this year, and I'm glad I waited it out to ensure the trip would be trouble free. I've never had 7 hours of constant seat time in 1837, and I learned a few things on the trip, good and bad:

The good:
The new Recaros are awesome. When I first installed them, I was worried about how comfortable they would be. For starters, the seat cushion is narrow, and your legs are locked into the driving position. The ride height is also significantly lower, and you're literally sitting on the floor in these compare to the stock buckets. Once I drove the car around a bit, I got used to both, but I was still on the fence about how 7 hours in the Recaros would feel. I can confidently say these are the most comfortable seats I've ever driven in. After 7 hours, my ass felt just a good as it did when I first got in the car...No bullshit.

I also got better mileage on E85 than I thought I would. I was averaging around 18 MPG on the highway, and we were cruising between 75-80 MPH most of the time.

Lastly, the JIC coilovers didn't have me pissing blood after 7 hours, which was welcomed.

Oh, and no breakdowns


The bad:
I really only have 2 main complaints after being in the car for an extended period of time. The first is 3" exhaust drone gets old after like 45 minutes. Meh.

The second, and far more annoying issue is the DSS driveshaft. The DSS driveshafts are NOT for street cars, IMO. The driveshaft is noisy, and amplifies every noise in the driveline. It also seems to create some sort of weird harmonic noise on decel, which is horribly annoying. I've done hours and hours of testing, troubleshooting, and diagnosing trying to pinpoint the source of the noise to no avail. No matter how much testing I do, I still only draw one conclusion; the issue is the DSS driveshaft is just a noisy POS. Additionally, my driveline was completely silent with the stock driveshaft, further reinforcing the problem being the DSS shaft itself. I suppose I should have considered how a giant piece of 3.5" hollow aluminum tubing would act compared to the stock driveshaft, but I didn't. The moral of the story is don't put a DSS driveshaft on your Galant if you enjoy listening to smooth Jazz on your commute to work...You won't enjoy the experience.




After I got the car home I gave it a good wash, and figured I'd change the oil. It was far before it was due, but I wanted to pull the filter and chop it open to inspect after the long drive. Zero metal, and really zero contaminates overall. The filter element was spotless:







Lastly, a picture of my new filter for G





East Coast MOD is coming up in a few weeks, so hoping to take 1837 and 820 out for that. I'm also trying to find time to get back to the track and hopefully break 11's. Got cams and a SD swap on the list of things to do to 1837 as well...Just too much to do, and not enough time to do it all.


G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
08/28/16 12:07 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

That's a dope ass filter. Did you get the magnets yet? You will be surprised at what you catch.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/28/16 11:45 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

No, been meaning to pick up a set, though. Where's that link to them again?

G
(obsessed with the turds of others)
08/28/16 09:39 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

click

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
09/17/16 06:08 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Winter is coming...So time to get back on the jack stands again soon

Picked up a Stage 2 Shep trans at MOD. A good trans was the last thing the build was really lacking, so I'm excited to get this in for next season.





The stock cams will be coming out and I've got a set of HKS cams going in. I've got 264 and a 272 exhaust cams, so not sure if I'll go straight 264's or do the 264/272 combo.



GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/04/16 06:10 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

That time I blew the welds on the intake...



transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
10/04/16 06:50 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

way to go spilner.. now me and the mad scientist need to tear the block down and make sure you didnt fry the piston rings. haaaaaa

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/16/16 09:22 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I pulled my injectors tonight to upgrade my fuel rail, and discovered some of the infamous black E85 goo. I've seen some people have trouble with goo, and others who have been on E85 for years and never seen it. Until today, I was one of those who have never seen it.

I've pulled my injectors on numerous occasions over the last year, and never saw a single trace of goo. I believe that's because the fuel in my area is pretty good quality overall. However, I went through about 5-7 tanks of E85 from various out of state locations over the last few months driving to the Shootout, and to East Coast MOD. I truly think the fuel station, and the quality of fuel coming out of that storage tank are what ultimately cause the goo.

I gave the injectors a quick cleaning, and now the goo is gone. I'll pull the injectors in another 2k miles and check for goo again, as I'm curious to see if the fuel in my area is contributing to the problem. As far as ethanol content, the tested levels from my local stations have been great. With winter coming up, I'm also curious to see if the ethanol content drops off a bit.

Goo






All clean



ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
10/17/16 09:40 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I too have been curious about this phenomenon. As you said, some go years w/o a trace, and others can't shake it. Looking forward to seeing how this plays out for you.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/17/16 10:41 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

There are tons of theories as to how and why the goo accumulates, and where it comes from. The one I can personally attest to is fuel grade.

Personally, I ran E85 for 6 months without ever seeing any sign of goo. During that specific goo free time period, I only got E85 from 1 of 2 stations in my area. The primary station I used is on a military base, where flex fuel vehicles are fueled regularly, and I would assume the station tanks are therefore refilled regularly. The second station is a Shell station, which is in the heart of Annapolis, and is always busy. Additionally, I've tested the ethanol content of the fuels from both of these stations in the summer months and it has always been at or over 85%. Long story short, I believe the fuel from both of the stations in my local area is good quality.

Back up to last May, when I swapped out my FIC 1050's for a set of FIC 1150's. I had been on E85 for nearly 6 months at that point. When I pulled the 1050's, they were spotless: (Take note where I even mention in the post there's no goo in my 1050's at all): click

In that post, I had just received my 1150's back from FIC after cleaning and flow testing. I swapped them in, and at the time, they too were spotless. Now, fast forward to today just 5 months later, and suddenly my injectors are full of goo. The only real difference is where I fueled the car over that period of time. Namely, I drove the the Shootout and also East Coast MOD. I fueled the car in various states, at various stations; obviously with varying grades/qualities of E85.

Long story short, I don't think E85 causes goo. I think crappy E85 causes goo based on my personal experiences with it. The problem is, there's no real way for simpletons like myself to actually check the grade of the fuel aside from testing ethanol content (that I'm aware of). As such, I would recommend to anyone running E85 to pull their injectors every few thousand miles and give them a look. If you're running crappy E85 grade fuel, it will undoubtedly show.


slugsgomoo
(god hates stupid people)
10/17/16 02:48 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

would it be worth it to run gasoline through it every few tanks to (in theory) clean it out? I would expect the solvents in gasoline to help combat the goo somewhat, especially if combined with something like seafoam.

I wish e85 was more available near me. I lived a few miles from a base with an E85 pump for years but it's only available to vehicles with government plates


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/17/16 05:16 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

It's hard to say. I think depending on how crappy the E85 is, it may or may not help. I will say that once the goo is there, no fuel or additives will remove it. It has to be done manually. When I park my car in the winters, I run all of the E85 out of the system and garage it with pump gas in the tank.

I've seen injectors gooed up way worse than mine, but in the condition pictured above mine still seemed to perform fine. I never noticed any loss in performance or driveability. If left unchecked, I assume the goo could cause a lean condition, or even cause fuel to pool, which are a real problems.

IMO, E85 users just have to look at pulling the injectors like any other maintenance item. If not, you're rolling the dice. Least, that's how I'm looking at the problem. Even if I knew the E85 in my area was undoubtedly shit, I still couldn't give it up. Corn makes the powaaa.


ApexHunter
(Extreme Indoor Cyclist)
10/18/16 10:54 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

What was your weapon of choice for goo removal?

Yes, many theories as to how and why, and i haven't been able to draw any great conclusions.

Gospel down in socal is to run 91 every few tanks, as slugs was saying. Thing is, there are quite a few people who are a goo-free who never do that. Fuel quality so far seems to be most logical. I mean, if they stay clean when using 2 stations, but then you venture off the range and start sampling some other stuff and have problems, seems kinda obvious that it was something with the other fuel, or maybe lack of equipment maintenance.

I don't fucks with the e85 yet, partly because goo. But Flex Fuel tech has been calling my name for the last few months...


biglady112
(or what)
10/18/16 11:33 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Here are your answers as to what the goo is. It was done by a dsmer who used to live here but, has since moved to texas. He is a chemist. Real analysis inside.

click


strokin4dr
(fighting them with a large needle)
10/19/16 05:53 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I came across that thread years back before deciding to give e85 a try. It's a good read!

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/19/16 09:29 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Quoting ApexHunter:

What was your weapon of choice for goo removal?

Yes, many theories as to how and why, and i haven't been able to draw any great conclusions.

Gospel down in socal is to run 91 every few tanks, as slugs was saying. Thing is, there are quite a few people who are a goo-free who never do that. Fuel quality so far seems to be most logical. I mean, if they stay clean when using 2 stations, but then you venture off the range and start sampling some other stuff and have problems, seems kinda obvious that it was something with the other fuel, or maybe lack of equipment maintenance.

I don't fucks with the e85 yet, partly because goo. But Flex Fuel tech has been calling my name for the last few months...




I just used a toothbrush and gasoline to remove the goo. All the buildup on my injectors was external. The baskets and pintles were completely clean.

My personal experience with the goo says is comes from a shitty pump. Whether that's the equipment itself (tanks, pump, etc) that degrades the fuel quality or the actual quality of the fuel itself before it hits the tank (or perhaps a combination of both), I think your goo problem will be hit or miss depending on the station itself.

Goo or not, swapping to E85 is still the best thing I've even done to the car performance wise. I'd still highly recommend it if it's available in your area. I can remove 3 bolts and access the injectors on my car, so maintaining them isn't a big deal for me personally. I don't even have to crack open the fuel system.





Quoting biglady112:

Here are your answers as to what the goo is. It was done by a dsmer who used to live here but, has since moved to texas. He is a chemist. Real analysis inside.

click




Yeah, I've read that thread before as well. It's funny you post it, because I just read it again recently after I found goo in my injectors. I appreciate the link.

I've read tons of other stuff online as to the causes of the goo. Here's another good one that was started here: click

Still, out of all the stuff I've read I've still only seen good theories about why it occurs. I've yet to see anything definitive, and I think that's probably because the causes of goo vary a great deal. What I do find to be common is some people who run E85 that don't have goo issues don't fuel their cars at a wide variety of places. One of Scott's posts suggested this as well: click

After reading Scott's post, and a few others implying the same thing, I'll be limiting where I fuel my car to see if I can prove/disprove the theory.


slugsgomoo
(god hates stupid people)
10/20/16 09:38 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

after digging through the whole thread, the apparent answer from the chemist is interesting and worth sticking straight in the thread here IMO

Quote:

Alright, I finished my analysis of this stuff, and my finding is very unexpected. I think it will probably surprise everyone else as well. This doesn't appear to be forming because ethanol is "such a good solvent" but because ethanol is a poor solvent. I suppose it should have been obvious when others said that it "washes right off with gasoline". Why would something that ethanol is selectively dissolving wash off with gasoline? If this were something in rubber or from our fuel tanks, wouldn't that imply that gasoline would dissolve it even more readily than E85?

Alright, so what is this stuff? It is a appears to be a very large petroleum based hydrocarbon, similar to Vaseline. There isn't a single hetero-atom in the molecule (ie, the entire molecule is comprised of hydrogens and carbons), but the molecule is very large. It is also completely aliphatic (ie, only single bonds in the structure - no double or triple bonds). Where did it come from? I can only think of two different sources it could be coming from. It is either something that is mixed in with the rubber hoses that is meant to dissolve away in the gasoline, or it is a trace impurity in the 15% gasoline that is in E85 that wasn't separated during the fractional distillation process. Because it is such a large molecule, it wouldn't be very soluble in ethanol and could easily crash out of solution at the injector.




So it seems like the quality of the 15% is really the issue here.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/23/16 11:31 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

I got some wrenching done on the car recently. Started with an in-car cam swap. I'm on a HKS 264/272 combo now.





Out with the Magnus SMIM and in with the Magnus V3.





After plenty of ass pain I finally got the V3 to fit. The thing is absolutely huge. I had to relocate my fuel filter because it was too close to the throttle body. As a result, my fuel lines no longer fit, so I've got new ones on order. Once those come in, I should be up and running again.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/24/16 11:19 PM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Alright, got the fuel line situation worked out, and relocated the filter. Used the handy-dandy ECMlink fuel pump activation feature to check for leaks and verify base fuel pressure, and was all good there.

Then, I slapped the boost leak tester on and checked for leaks. Fixed a leak at the J-pipe flange, and the BISS O-ring, but after that the car held 30psi solid.

I hit the key and the car fired right up. After it was warm, I made a few adjustments to the BISS and got it idling nice and smooth. I took it out for a drive and it ran just as smooth. There's no loss in low end torque that I can tell, and the top end has obviously improved greatly. With the addition of cams (I was on stockers before) in conjunction with the V3, it's hard to tell exactly how each part is improving top end. However, it's clear the car is much more potent near redline, whereas it seemed to fall off previously.

I need to make some minor adjustments to the tune, but overall the car still runs awesome. The fall weather here has been awesome as well, and driving the Galant around in it is great. Here's few pics I took while out test driving around today:











transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
10/25/16 10:12 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

heck yeah Brett. the car looks great and you have some amazing places by you to drive and take pictures. loving the new set-up.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/25/16 10:42 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

Thanks, Shane.

How's your new Galant coming along?


transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
10/25/16 10:50 AM
Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000

well it runs, but it's