GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/20/12 03:02 AM
GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

This is the intro to my build/restoration thread for 1813. I purchased this car in August of 2011 and have been stacking parts, and doing repairs and restoration slowly over time. Iíve found that the carís previous owner(s) have done quite a bit of damage by half-ass repairs and mod jobs. 80% of what Iíve done has been reversing damage thatís been done by bad mechanics. You can see more background on the car here click in my initial intro thread from when I bought the car.




My goals for the car are primarily just to be a fun DD. I would like to do some drag racing with it as well in my free time. I have a huge mod list, but the major mods are:

2.0L refresh
1G rod, 2G piston combo
Balanced and blueprinted rotating assembly originally built by RRE
Cyclone Intake
Holset HE351VE Variable Geometry Turbo
Snow Performance Methanol Injection
DSMlinkÖ

So to start, I bought the car and was told by the last owner that all the car really needed was a fuel pump. That turned out to be farther from the truth than I could have ever imagined. I got a sender unit with a kinked outlet line. Here are pics of the reconditioning and -6 AN line conversion.
Hereís how the unit started.


I ground the outlet line flush and drilled and tapped the hole with a 1/8 NPT tap.




I used a 1/8 NPT / -6 AN fitting and put Teflon high temp sealant on the threads after I screwed the fitting into the sending unit. I then used some fuel resistant epoxy putty to seal the fitting just as a precautionary measure.




Lastly, I used a 1/8 NPT coupler and barb fitting to attach the fuel pump hose. I sanded the top of the sending unit and removed all the rust. Taped the fittings and wiring and painted the unit.




Here is the finished product.





I dropped the fuel tank. I cleaned, prepped and painted the exterior. The inside was starting to rust and corrode so I had to do a lot of work cleaning the inside also. Iíll have some after pics of it soon but it turned out good.



For anyone trying to adapt a AN line to the stock hard line hereís how you do it. You MUST have an inverted flare adapter fitting. I got mine from RCI, but they are available other places. If you arenít familiar with what im talking about, just know if you do not have the correct fitting, the line will leak and shit can catch on fire. That should be enough to deter anyone from screwing the wrong fitting on. See here for a good read on some of the incorrect fittings that are used: click
Notice the flared center inside of this fitting. I included a few shots of the progression of installation from the stock hard line to the finished product with the -6 AN line installed.








As I mentioned before, the previous owners were quite the backyard mechanics. Here are a few shots of how hacked and messed up a few of the previous ownerís repairs were. These were just a few of the things that were messed up by hack job repairs.




The motor.... I bought the car under the impression it just needed a fuel pump. As it turned out though, the car ended up having 8 bent intake valves. Fu*k me. I pulled the head and just planned to get the head fixed and slap it back on. As I started to check out the timing components, I realized the oil pump had RTV sealant oozing from where it sealed to the block. This worried me. I am a firm believer in gaskets. IMO using RTV sealant or gasket maker for anything that a gasket is specifically made for is stupid. Itís a band aid at best, and not using a gasket whenever you can is just dumb to me. People spend tons of money on parts and expensive engine components and then cheap out on shit like gaskets. I just donít get it? Anyways, because of this find I decided to pull the motor, tear it down and inspect everything; and it's a good thing I did. I dissembled the motor down to the block and rotating assembly. There wasnít a single gasket in the entire thing. Whoever built this motor used RTV sealer on EVERYTHING!!!??? The oil pickup, oil pump, water pump, oil pan, rear main seal, blah, blah, blah. Literally, the only gasket that was used in the whole motor was a head gasket. Even the thermostat housing was sealed with RTV. I couldnít understand it. It probably took me 8 damn hours to scrape and clean off all the RTV off of everything. I finally got it all off and cleaned all the mating surfaces good and checked them for trueness and damage. I pulled everything apart and reinstalled everything using FelPro gaskets. I used copper spray on almost all of the gaskets except for the head gasket. It does a great job sealing any imperfections that the paper gasket canít. Plus, after you spray it on it gets a little tacky so the gasket is easy to place. Copper spray is amazing. I installed ARP head studs and a FelPro composite head gasket (9627PT). Lastly I painted the block with few coats of high temp paint and checked all the torque on the rod and main caps just to be safe.

Before:

After:


Before:

After:


Before:

After:


A few additional shots:








I had the head reconditioned at a local machine shop here in SoCal. They milled the deck surface and replaced all the intake valves. They gave it a nice cleaning and I gave it a coat of high temp paint before I slapped it on the nice clean block. I torque it down with new ARP bolts using ARP molly lube.








I installed Fidanza adjustable on the stock cams for now. EVERYTHING else is gates. New gates water pump, tensioner pulley, idler pulley and hydraulic tensioner. I went with a Gates racing timing belt also. OEM Mitsu thermostat was installed as well as Mitsu knock and temp sensors. Iím just waiting on a few timing tins covers to finish up assembly. I cleaned and touched up all the engine accessories before they were bolted on. The long block is now mostly assembled and looks super clean.








While I had the motor out I went ahead and repainted the engine compartment with some semi-gloss black. I also did the front wheel wells. A few before and after shots.

Before:




After:


Before:

After:


Before

After:


Before:

After:


Before:

After:


Before:

After:




The suspension....Let me just start this by saying what a fu*king disaster this was. If I knew exactly who screwed the suspension on this car up so bad I would have beat them to death with the damn strut assembly. I only started working on the suspension because I was doing a 5 lug swap on the car. As soon as I removed the wheels I knew there was a problem. I noticed the front springs were sitting crooked in the front strut perch. Additionally, the spring was rubbing on the inside of the wheel well when compressed. It wasnít until after I removed the front and rear strut assemblies that I figured out what was going on. It turns out the guy who had the car before me actually cut the springs so short they wouldnít even sit snug in the strut anymore. I should mention these weren't even stock springs, but ebach sportlines. I have never heard of anyone cutting a spring that is already designed to lower a car, but I am never ceased to be amazed. Cutting a lowering spring seems really stupid, but after seeing all the other shit messed up by the previous owner Iím not even surprised. Hereís a pic of me actually wiggling the spring in the strut while itís fully assembled. The springs were so loose I didnít even need to use a spring compressor to remove them.


Here are some shots of the 5 lug swap, and how I removed the rear axle cups with a 3 jaw puller. I cleaned, inspected, lubed and painted all the hub assemblies before installation. I trashed the cut Eibachs for a set of B&G lowering springs. I reinstalled them on the almost new KYB AGX adjustable struts that were already on the car. I also put on new bump stops and strut rod covers while I had the assemblies apart. Iím excited to see how the carís stance looks when itís all said and done. Up top I installed new upper strut mounts on both sides. I threw on my Whiteline 22mm front swaybar and new stock swaybar end links on both sides to finish up.








So I get everything together start bolting the passenger side strut assembly onto the car. I get it on and notice it will only turn about 20 degrees before it locks up. It wasnít allowing enough motion for the strut to rotate like it should. The ball rotated perfectly in the socket with the strut removed though. It was blowing my mind. Come to find out the lower control arm was bent, and increased the ball jointís center angle so much that it wouldnít allow the strut full range of motion. It wasnít until I ordered new control arms that I realized how messed up the old arm was. I replaced both sides with new arms just to be safe. Here are a few shots of the new arm side-by-side with the old arm.

Bad:

Good:




Next on the agenda is finishing up the motor and throwing it back in the car. I have an external 255 to wire up that will be used in conjunction with the stocker in tank pump, and then need to reinstall the fuel tank. More updates to follow soon...


bobdole
(Old member with new to me VR4 and starting over. Respect your elders kids)
08/20/12 05:59 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Great build. Everything looks great. Look forward to seeing more updates.

matt92vr4
(Member ++)
08/20/12 10:22 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Looks great! We are currently in a very similar situation lol

iceman69510
(Turn Right Racing)
08/20/12 10:33 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Very nice work. Kudos on your efforts.

I'll have to try putting my block on the stand like that. I have never done that.


matt92vr4
(Member ++)
08/20/12 01:10 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Yeah I noticed that was an interesting way to mount the block.

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
08/21/12 07:54 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

lookin Good Brett, I see one one of the brands from my store, Master pro haha.

are you gonna keep it blue like your 1g?


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/21/12 04:54 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Thanks Mike. I'm really disappointed you didn't get your car done in time, and just as disappointed I couldn't get mine done either. I know how it is to rush and try to make a deadline just to be let down in the end. After I knew I wasn't going to make it to the shootout, I just slowed down and decided to do all the things I wanted to do anyways but time wouldn't permit by trying to make it to the shootout. I think I will be better off now that I can take my time and give lots of attention to detail. Hopefully you can do the same. Better luck next year to both of us I guess.

I will probably get it painted eventually, but haven't decided whether I'll keep it blue or not. Time will tell.


GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
08/22/12 09:04 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Yeah now that I have an entire year to wait till the next shootout, this gives me time to do ALOT =) hopefully the both of us can roll out there next year like originally planned.

Anyways, I think that car wouldn't look badass in that darker metallic blue. Or even that Evo 9 grey =)


faqinshiet
(Member +)
08/23/12 02:24 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Wow..good work! What color was it originally? Just wondering. What area of sd are you too? Im in the mission valley area usually.

desant78
(Member ++)
08/23/12 04:53 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

dude great work! looks like your a doing a real thorough job, and it's coming out great so far.

Keep up the hard work, and kudos for taking creating what a fine example of a vr4 would be.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/27/12 06:50 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Quoting faqinshiet:

Wow..good work! What color was it originally? Just wondering. What area of sd are you too? Im in the mission valley area usually.




I'm in located in the Mira Mar area, and The car was originally BG.

Sooooo0o I dropped the motor in yesterday and I have a problem. I installed all new avid aluminum motor mounts in the car click The problem is, as the motor sits now, it's an inch or so too close to the driver side frame rail. It seems like each mount is just a half inch shy of where it should be located to allow the motor to sit perfectly side to side. It's off enough that the power steering pulley is actually hitting the frame rail. I know it's the new mounts too because the motor sat fine with the old stockers installed. I'm not really sure how to go about fixing this issue. Has anyone else had this problem, or had a problem like it? I'll post up some pictures later to give you guys a visual idea of what I'm dealing with. I'm thinking of slotting the passenger transmission mount to allow the upper through bolt to slide back more toward the passenger side of the car, thereby shifting the whole motor a bit to the passenger side. Then I have to figure out how to shift the front and rear mounts though, and am stuck on what to do there. Anybody have any ideas? I only need about another half inch of clearance.


Noobsauce
(Member)
08/27/12 07:56 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Have any pics with the engine in the car? And close ups of the engine mounts

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
08/27/12 08:58 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Brett, id return those mounts, get your money back because they prob aren't meant for a GVR4 or something. Then just pick up some of those red or black poly mount inserts and press those in your stock mounts and be done with it.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/28/12 12:02 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

I messed with the fitment a bit today and got 3 of the 4 motor mounts to fit good. I loosened the attaching brackets that connect to the block and used a pry bar to better position the mounts. The driver side mount is hopeless though. These mounts are garbage as far as fitment goes. If I didn't have so much time and money invested in them, I'd throw them in all the trash. I have a few pics of just how far off this thing is from fitting. It sits too high as well as cocked when it's installed and tightened. I'm going to have to make a few cuts to the aluminum stock to get it even close to fitting. At this point I really don't care if the mount gets screwed up, as I'll just buy a new one if this one will not work after I mod it. I'm ready to hack this bitch up with a saw anyways, because I'm really pissed that these mounts fit like shit. For all those of you looking to buy Avid aluminum motor mounts, don't do it. I can't speak to how they fit on other cars, but the VR4 specific ones (which these are) fit like crap. That is all for now...







LIV4PSI
(dyslexic 1051 )
08/28/12 02:03 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

I didn't know there were GVR4 specific Avid mounts. I bought 1G ones for my car, and I didn't have any fitment problems on any of the 4.

Very nice build. I love when members have the proper amount of pride and respect for their GVR4.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/29/12 04:10 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

I ended up hacking up the driver side mount to get it to fit. For those of you who have installed these already without issues, I really can't see how. After I modded the mount it was still a bit shy of where it needed to be. I got tired of screwing with it and will probably attack it this weekend sometime. Of all the issues I have come accross so far, this one is by far one of the most frustrating. I'm cool with old parts and stuff breaking or whatever, but this is ridiculous. These things are new, and should fit like stock for what they cost. Regardless of what others are saying, I would not recomend buying Avid aluminum motor mounts to anyone. If someone else here has some pictures of how these mounts fit on their car I'd be interested to see them.







bazeng
(work in progress)
08/29/12 05:18 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Is it possible to have mounted the gearbox mount upside down?
This may be stopping you from getting the correct engine level on the timing side?


Tre3zy
(correct me if im rite...Wyldcarz been rolling hard for a long time)
08/29/12 09:24 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Quoting LIV4PSI:

I didn't know there were GVR4 specific Avid mounts. I bought 1G ones for my car, and I didn't have any fitment problems on any of the 4.

Very nice build. I love when members have the proper amount of pride and respect for their GVR4.




you bought 1g ones for the gvr4??? id like to see those pictures as well because i was interested on buying this mounts in the future...


LIV4PSI
(dyslexic 1051 )
08/29/12 10:48 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Yes, I bought 1G ones. The research I did before buying them said that they were the same. The front bracket that is different on GVR4s is still used, and that is the only difference between our mounts and DSM mounts.

Brianawd
(Higher Launch RPM)
08/30/12 10:04 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

1g and galant vr4 mounts are all the same other then the front roll control mount. I have installed more then a few JDM motors into 1gs and the roll control mount is the only one I change out.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
08/30/12 10:50 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

I finally got the mounts all in. I had to do some serious modifications to the driver side mount for it to even be close to fitting. Even then, getting them all in was such a pain. But, they are all in and bolted down. The motor sits TIGHT! I mean you can grab the head and shake the shit out of it and the motor doesn't even budge. I'm not sure how this is going to effect drive-ability or how badly the vibrations are going to be. To be honest, I'm a little worried about how rough rigid these mounts are. I guess we'll see how this plays out for daily driving conditions. I'm glad to be over this obstacle though, and am hoping the remainder of the motor install is all down hill from here. I have a 3 day weekend coming up so I guess I'll find out soon enough.

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
08/31/12 09:36 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Well if you don't like how much vibration they make I'll happily buy them off you since I was planning on picking up a set anyways. But hopefully they won't shake you to death lol

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
09/02/12 01:06 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Progress has been coming along well since I have dealt with the motor mount issue. The motor is in and I have started to get things back together in hopes of having a running VR4 by next week.


I completed the rear half of the fuel system. Here's the tank before:


After:




Here's the re-done pump assy and new OEM Mitsu tank gasket.



I also replaced the fuel filler hose:



Cleaned and painted the filler neck:



Final product:






My fuel setup consists of the OEM in-tank pump and an external Walbro 255. The stock pump acts only as a lift pump. I made a custom mount for the 255 on the fuel pump access cover and attached it there. I also did a re-wire for the Walbro using some large 10 gauge wire. Everything is still mounted externally and is all hidden when buttoned up. I was really happy with how it turned out. Hopefully it works as well as it looks.










To run the relay for the re-wire, I had to splice into the factory harness for a 12v source that's hot when the car is on. I made a solder connection and used some heat shrink to weather proof my new connection. I just took the pin out of the connector to get the heat shrink on.







And the final product... Notice the only difference is the 2 large wires used to power and ground the newly installed Walbro 255. An overall nice and clean install.



A quick shot of the rear completed 5 lug swap. New springs, struts, slotted rotors and pads.



I installed all new Gates accessory belts. I would have bought a kevlar racing belt for the power steering, but gates doesn't make one...




Steel braided clutch line to replace the junk rubber OEM line.



Empty engine compartment after paint:



And here it is now with the motor dropped in. I replaced all the old crappy plastic wire covering on the engine harness with nylon braiding. I have also relocated it lower on the bulkhead to tuck it and give the engine bay a cleaner look. The battery has been relocated to the trunk, and the engine compartment seems huge with all the extra space I have. I also replaced much of the hardware on the car with new grade 8 bolts, or stainless hex head hardware. All the detailed work I'm doing is really consuming a lot of time, but the end result is definitely paying off.




My cyclone intake manifold had a bad vacuum actuator. I swapped in a 14B actuator in its place. I made a few custom brackets and it fits like stock. It opens the butterflies at around 8 psi.






Cyclone mani installed:



Before re-installing, I rebuilt both front axles with all new CV boots and high pressure synthetic grease.



New lower dust shield installed:



I disassembled, inspected, cleaned and painted the transfer case while it was out of the car. Here's how it turned out:





Anddddd last but not least, here's a Galant base I saw in the parking lot of Home Depot Racing while making a trip for bolts.




More to come soon...


GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
09/03/12 01:47 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

I like that gates racing blue alt belt, im gonna pick one of those up =)

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
09/03/12 03:09 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

I don't know why everyone doesn't. They are hardly more than a new OEM timing belt... click

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
09/20/12 01:07 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Just a quick update, I got the car to run for about 5 minutes today. It was running pretty good, and then it just slowly died. I tried to restart it but it just cranks and cranks. It doesn't even act like it is trying to start. I have spark and the car turns over good. I also have approx 37 PSI at the fuel rail while cranking according to the gauge mounted on the rail itself. Mechanical timing is still good as well. I'm thinking fouled plugs??? I'm going to let it sit overnight and give it a try tomorrow. If it doesn't start tomorrow, I'll swap out the plugs. You guys have any other suggestions?

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
09/21/12 01:07 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

It's alive!!! I have pieced the car together enough to get it to start and run. I still have lots of work to do, but I'm making progress. It's not very eventful, but here's a vid of the start up click For some reason, the cooling fan isn't kicking on. I need to figure out why this is, as I can only idle the car for about 5 min before it starts to get too hot.

Things I have left to do next:

-I have to rebuild the clutch pedal. The pedal rod is stripped and rounded out the pedal bracket. For those of you who have never had to remove the pedal assembly, it is a disaster. The parts are coming from JNZ so hopefully they are here soon.

-Replace all the intercooler couplers and clamps. I have all new intercooler couplers and T bolt clamps on the way as well, ignore the rigged ones in the video.

-Bleed the brakes and clutch system.

-Fill the trans, transfer case and rear diff with new fluids. I have Redline MT90 and Heavy Shock Proof on the way for this.

-Find a GVR4 shifter and base and install it. The one in my car is beyond fixing.


GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
09/21/12 08:16 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Lookin good brett, i see you wearin your PT shirt haha, those EVO 8 rims look much better then the old rims you had on it. im glad your still at it with this car and not giving up or selling it like most others seem to go. good job man

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
11/05/12 01:35 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

I have been struggling with the VR4. This thing is a never ending pain in the ass. I have literally replaced almost every major component with either a new OEM part, or an aftermarket piece. I have the car running pretty good at this point. I have been fighting some oil leaks, and still have a small one to take care of. Here's a few updates of my progress.

New Mitsu Knock sensor installed.


Here was the fuse panel from the previous owner. Needless to say I had to replace it.


More electrical and wiring hack jobs from the previous owner I had to repair. He installed scotch locks on pretty much every electrical connection he made. This was the result.



I had to a clutch pedal rebuild. Hands down the most pain in the ass repair I have ever performed on any car in my life. For those of you thinking of doing this...Don't.





So as you can see, the clutch pedal rod was pretty screwed. Below is what caused it. The clutch slave cylinder piston was rusted and completely frozen in the slave cylinder body. I pressed down on the clutch pedal and the pedal rod just rounded clean off thanks to the frozen slave cylinder. I replaced the entire slave.



Filled my trans, xfer case and rear diff all with new Redline fluids.



I wired up my JDM headlights.



Oil will not seem to quit leaking from this car. I had a small leak for a few days. It looked like it was coming from the pan, right where the crankshaft damper is. eventually this small leak turned into the car pissing oil everywhere, and I couldn't even run the car. I decided to replace the oil pan and gasket, mainly because my old pan was in crappy shape and I didn't know if the sealing surface was still true. I hoped this would take car of my leak.



So I replace the pan and gasket, clean up all the oil and let the car sit over night to see if it leaks. I come out the next day and everything is still dry. I start the car and of course, oil is still pissing out of the exact same place. At this point I know whatever is leaking is behind the timing cover. I and contemplate cutting my losses, burning the car and collecting the insurance money to recoup part of what I have invested (money not time). I then wise up, and decide I'm already sweating my ass off, and the fire would only worsen this condition. I pull off the timing cover and hear something metal fall to the ground. It appears whoever installed the BSE plug on the oil pump cover didn't do a very good job. It had popped out, and was pissing oil everywhere. Luckily, the timing belt didn't get any oil on it. I put some sealer on it, and popped it tightly back in place.



I fixed the oil leak, cleaned up all the oil again and took a few pics in case I decided to burn the car after all.











GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
11/05/12 07:54 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

She cleans up well, that engine bay is pretty spiffy now. and the EVO 8 rims look much better on it as well.

89Mirageman
(Senior Member)
11/05/12 08:15 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

I see a few of my old parts on there. Don't let this car get you frustrated man, just put a cover on it and take a break for now. In a few weeks you'll miss working on it.

DynastyLCD
(Dissapointing Member)
11/05/12 10:48 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

engine bay looks great!

glad you got your oil leak fixed - like others have said, don't ever give up! you've done a hell of a job getting this car to where it is now. great job!


JamesFoster
(Infamous BMX Master)
11/05/12 10:58 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Love the build, car looks great! Don't burn it, we've all been there, but once you finally get all the bugs worked out, you're gonna love the car.

IncorpoRatedX
(I'm an idiot...)
11/05/12 05:05 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

All that time and money put into it and you're running an aluminum, non dampened crank pulley??

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
11/05/12 10:10 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Well unless you will buy me a fluidampr, yes. I have read about the cons of a lightweight damper, but I suppose eliminating balance shafts could be considered in the same light. Seems strange that BSE is widely accepted as good practice. I dunno...

I will get a fluidampr eventually... click


GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
11/06/12 07:56 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

the ATI super dampner seems to be another popular choice amongst the 4G63 crowd click

EHmotorsports
(Capt Fabbin Stabbin)
11/06/12 10:31 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

If you didn't have the pulley balanced with the engines rotating Assm. You would be better off with a stock one.

G
(JDM Unit)
11/08/12 05:53 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Nice work!

boostin4door
(Member)
11/26/12 03:53 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Good stuff!

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
12/15/12 08:21 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

So the update goes like this: The motor is blown
click

I got a chance to drop the oil pan today, and here's what I found:














After looking at the damage, I'm pretty sure I know what happened. If you look at the pics, you will see one of the ARP rod bolts (and nut) is completely intact. That very bolt was sitting in the bottom of the oil pan when when I dropped it, and when I pulled it out of the pan, it looked exactly like it is in the picture. I think that bolt came loose and fell out while I was rolling down the freeway at about 70 MPH. Rod bolt comes loose > rod journal looses oil pressure > rod smokes crank, bearing and everything in its path. You can see in the photos how the crank got so hot that it turned blue. The bearing I removed from the pan was equally as smoked. It's obvious the car ran for a while with no pressure to the journal. This also could explain how I was able to put almost 300 miles on the car running great before it just suddenly took a shit. What I can't understand is how the bolt came loose. I checked the torqued each main and rod cap before I dropped it in the car. Do any of you guys put locktite on main and rod bolts as a precautionary measure??? Any input or other theories to what may have happened are more than welcome. I'm hoping to pull the motor soon, and see how I can begin to repair it the best way possible.


citymunky
(Fake Title)
12/15/12 10:52 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Man this sucks. I know the feeling too.

G
(JDM Unit)
12/16/12 12:55 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Looks to me like the wrong bearing was used. What kind of bearing is that?

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
12/16/12 06:23 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

It was a standard size rod bearing according to the receipts I got with the car when I bought it. The receipt says part number RB105, brand name DNJ. It was purchased here: click . I just can't see any way that a bearing failure could cause a rod bolt to fall out of the rod entirely intact. It only makes sense for it to happen the other way around, otherwise they would have both been sheared off like the one in the pic.

G
(JDM Unit)
12/16/12 07:08 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Never heard of them, looks chinese. I do believe that bearing is missing an oil hole. You buy cheap you buy twice.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
12/16/12 08:38 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Well it had an oil hole, but that was before it got fried click . I agree, if you buy cheap you buy twice, but I didn't build the bottom end or purchase the bearings it was built with. I won't make that mistake twice though. Regardless, the bearing quality isn't what caused the failure IMO.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
12/16/12 09:28 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

So I decided to suck it up and buy all the tools I need to rebuild my bottom end myself.

-Fowler outside micrometers: 2-6 inch
-SPI Vee block set
-Starrett small hole gages
-Starrett inside tubular micrometers
-Brown and Sharp telescoping gages
-Brown and Sharp dial indicator



I should be pulling the motor tomorrow, and starting the rebuild shortly after. I can't wait to put this stuff to work.


iceman69510
(Turn Right Racing)
12/17/12 11:02 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Wow, nice tool collection! Jealous.

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
12/17/12 12:05 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Nice tools Brett, that's some professional stuff right there.

G
(JDM Unit)
12/17/12 03:55 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

I don't see where the oil hole could be on that bearing. Should be in the middle.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
12/24/12 03:46 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

I finally got the motor back out again and torn all the way down. The crank is trashed, and so was the number 4 rod and piston. The good news is I found out that my motor was previously built with 2G Ross racing pistons and not stock 2G pistons. On a bad note, rather than replacing a 2g OEM piston, I had to custom order a single piston from Ross, which cost me ~$150. I had a 1G spare rod laying around, and had the machine shop bore it over to accept the larger 2g wrist pin.




The worst part about all this is that fact that all the money I just spent on gaskets, oil and consumables is all down the shitter. I just ordered new Felpro gaskets again, as well as ANOTHER new oil pan. I decided to cut my losses and went ahead and ordered a new crank too. All that's left now is finding 2 ARP rod bolts and nuts. I'm already planning on having to suck it up and buy a whole set to get the 2 I need. I stripped down the block, cleaned it and gave it another fresh coat of high temp paint. I scraped and cleaned all the sealing surfaces, and installed the ARP head and main studs. I'm pretty much just waiting on parts so I can balance everything, reassemble and get it back in the car.




One of the things doing this again allows for is fixing all the little things I wish I caught the first time around. The oil plug for the BSEK was one of the things that I wanted to fix. The plug popped out twice after the build, and I got really tired of dealing with the oil leak it caused. When I pulled the motor, I found out why the plug kept popping out. The lip that holds the plug was fractured. I easily pulled the cracked part off with my hand, and as the first pic shows, half of the lip came off. I ground the rest of the lip off flat, and cleaned it up good to repair it. I sealed it up with a large washer and JB Weld. I then used a nut and bolt to tighten the washer against the cover to seal, and keep the washer snug in place. The end result looked tight, and I think it will hold up great without any leaks.






Lastly, I gave the engine bay another good wash to get it all ready to drop the motor back in.


G
(JDM Unit)
12/24/12 04:49 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

That's definitely going to vibrate lose. Might want to spot weld that bolt and nut.

Vr4junkie
(writes like a tard)
12/25/12 03:20 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

What I never knew you could use forged pistons on stock 1g rods are these C clips or Push in pins?

can't belive they cheaped out on the bearings I used a DNJ head gasket and crap lasted 20mi before it leaked into cyl#4 I got an extra set of ACL aluglide rod and main bearings you can have if u havent ordered some yet.


DynastyLCD
(Dissapointing Member)
12/25/12 03:23 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

you can machine the rods for use with free-floating pistons. i have a set of 1g rods that were machined for 22mm free-floating 2g/Evo pistons. then you just use the pins provided with the forged pistons, and voila!

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
12/25/12 10:42 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

The Ross pistons use "spirolox" to retain the wrist pin. The wrist pin is completely free floating in the setup, and isn't pressed into the rod or piston. The end result is a 2G forged Ross piston on a stock 1G rod.

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
12/28/12 07:05 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

hey Brett, remeber these pics man? that was one hell of a meet huh I kinda miss Cali...







GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
12/29/12 10:36 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

^^^Yeah Mike that was a pretty sweet meet. I really like the wine colored 1G next to mine, I always thought that was such a nice color on the first gen cars. Hopefully I get the VR4 in on the action next time!

Speaking of getting the VR4 back in action, I got to make a little progress today. I got my replacement rod back from the machine shop, and could finally balance all the rotating components. I washed everything, and removed all the dirt and carbon form the pistons. I weighed the wist pins and pistons, all of which weighed exactly the same. It appears Ross makes a very refined product. Next, I assembled the rods and weight matched the little ends. After that, I weighed the whole rod and weight matched them once again, this time removing material from the big end. The only difficult part of this process is matching the little end weight of the rods, while at the same time maintaining the overall rod weight. For instance, I would have one rod with a little end that was a few grams to heavy. I would then remove some material from the small end, but by doing so the overall weight would be off a little. It's a delicate balance that takes some practice to get the hang of, but it is much easier than it sounds. It's not hard, but a time consuming process of taking off material, weighing the rod, then rinse and repeat time and time again until it is absolutely perfect. I didn't have a belt sander to remove material like most machine shops do, but an angle grinder worked just fine. I just took my time, removed metal evenly and polished each rod with some sand paper at the end to give each rod a nice finish. End result was <.1 oz (within 3 grams) variation in every aspect, even with the piston and rod fully assembled (rings and ARP rod bolts included). These components could be matched much closer if I had a more accurate scale, but for my street build I think this will suffice. As a general rule though, I believe most machinists recommend to balance everything within .5 grams of one another. Even so, I wouldn't hesitate to do this yourself if you have the time, as it is pretty straight forward. I just thank god I only had to do 4 rods. If I had to do 8 of these I would have been there all day.







Now I'm just waiting on my crankshaft to get here in the mail so I can assemble everything and get the motor back in the car.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
01/14/13 10:34 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

I finally got my new crank in the mail, so I assembled the motor this past weekend. New crank installed with new ACL bearings.





I double checked all the rod and main caps with Plastigage. All my tolerances were under .0020" (Measured and Plasitgaged').


Main caps






2 pistons in, checking the rod cap oil clearance.





All new Fel-Pro gaskets...again.




I did have a few new additions to the build this time around. HKS 264/272 cams, AEM Tru-Time adjustable cam gears, 90 OFH with B&M oil cooler, TB FIAV block-off plate, Zaklee clear cam cover and a Fluidampr crank pulley for all the haterz.



New oil pan number 2, since the last one lasted 4 days before I shot a rod through it. FML.


The bottom end is all assembled, ready to be buttoned up.



All done.





G
(JDM Unit)
01/14/13 11:34 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Yo, you don't need an oil pan gasket.

turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
01/15/13 12:20 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Word. I would just use Ultragrey RTV like the manual says to use. Works better.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
01/15/13 12:25 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Quoting G:

Yo, you don't need an oil pan gasket.




It comes in the kit, so might as well use it. If nothing else, it makes the oil pan easier to remove in the future.


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
01/15/13 01:19 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

That gasket is also more prone to leak.

Tre3zy
(correct me if im rite...Wyldcarz been rolling hard for a long time)
01/15/13 01:35 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

yea i used RTV on mines no leaks...

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
01/15/13 01:46 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Quoting turbowop:

That gasket is also more prone to leak.




But less prone to oozing into the oil pan, flaking off, and clogging an oil passage or the sump. Regardless of what the Mitsu manual says or how carefully you apply it, IMO RTV isn't a good substitute for a real gasket when available. If your mating surfaces are clean, flat, and your gasket is torqued properly, it won't leak. I'd say no matter if a gasket or RTV is used, proper installation is the important part, and in my case that means a copper coated Fel-Pro gasket.


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
01/15/13 02:11 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Well do what you want. It was just a friendly suggestion. I usually follow the FSM myself when it comes to stuff like this.

fuel
("Just to be pedantic!")
01/15/13 05:12 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

yeah those paper gaskets always leak eventually. I use ThreeBond RTV - best stuff ever and is used by Toyota and Subaru themselves.

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
01/15/13 07:46 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Threebond is what STM uses on all their stuff too, Great stuff. anyways, nice come back Brett! you got that thing together quick, hopefully nothing crazy happens this time around, i know you were pretty frustrated. Goodluck buddy!

5OF2k
(Member ++)
01/15/13 10:18 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Looking good man, hope it gets back in and running soon for you.

Out of curiousity, why did you go with a composite HG? Granted, they're cheap, but then again so are the Evo8 MLS's, and those are good to around 550whp in most cases. Cheap insurance for your engine, IMHO...?

-Jake


G
(JDM Unit)
01/15/13 01:55 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

That's the problem, the oil pan bolt area is not flat. You will have leaks. I would use the toyota fipg. That stuff will never leak. Also don't forget about the 2 short bolts by the timing belt.

Quoting GSTwithPSI:

Quoting turbowop:

That gasket is also more prone to leak.




But less prone to oozing into the oil pan, flaking off, and clogging an oil passage or the sump. Regardless of what the Mitsu manual says or how carefully you apply it, IMO RTV isn't a good substitute for a real gasket when available. If your mating surfaces are clean, flat, and your gasket is torqued properly, it won't leak. I'd say no matter if a gasket or RTV is used, proper installation is the important part, and in my case that means a copper coated Fel-Pro gasket.




MellowVR4
(5" too short)
01/15/13 02:16 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Quoting G:

Yo, you don't need an oil pan gasket.




VERY TRUE, my oil pan does leak, and i do have the felpro gasket on it with only 5k since the rebuild. i removed my trans for some work and in the process im removing the stupid gasket and using RTV, highly recommend it. But do what you want.


MellowVR4
(5" too short)
01/15/13 02:36 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

sorry for the off subject, but damn this is expensive click

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/15/13 03:13 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Quoting G:

That's the problem, the oil pan bolt area is not flat. You will have leaks. I would use the toyota fipg. That stuff will never leak. Also don't forget about the 2 short bolts by the timing belt.




QFT! We reseal all of our oil pans. The FIPG stuff is the business! Glad I work for Toyota so I can get the stuff when I need it haha


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
01/17/13 04:52 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Quoting 5OF2k:

Looking good man, hope it gets back in and running soon for you.

Out of curiousity, why did you go with a composite HG? Granted, they're cheap, but then again so are the Evo8 MLS's, and those are good to around 550whp in most cases. Cheap insurance for your engine, IMHO...?

-Jake




Thanks for the kind words. No reason for going with the composite HG really, just that I have had good luck with composite head gaskets in the past and usually stick to them. I would probably go with a MLS gasket if I had 2 newly machined sealing surfaces, but I don't.



Quoting Everyone :

Oil pan gaskets suck, use RTV bro.




Due to popular demand, I have removed the Fel-Pro oil pan gasket and replaced it with RTV as you can see in the picture below.



5OF2k
(Member ++)
01/17/13 05:23 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

LOL!

Just noticed all the Broncos stuff in the background as well.....

....did we just bond!? haha

-Jake


GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
01/17/13 06:27 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Quoting MellowVR4:

sorry for the off subject, but damn this is expensive click





Much better and cheaper click


G
(JDM Unit)
01/17/13 08:37 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Use this >> click Toyota part # 00295-00103 you won't be disappointed.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
01/20/13 09:35 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Got the motor all assembled and ready to drop in.





I installed a DIY heat shield to keep the wideband O2 sensor a little cooler.


I put a micro switch on my Cyclone manifold so that when the butterflies fully open the switch is triggered. I'll use this to adjust when they open, and make sure they are working as they should.


I installed the oil cooler and hooked everything up. -8 AN lines running to and from.




The motor is in and ready to go. I didn't get to drop the trans in with the motor. When I was getting ready to mount the trans, I started looking at the TOB and decided to be on the safe side and replace it. Needless to say, none of the dealers in the area stock the part, so I'm waiting for one to come in. I took the opportunity to install my wideband and some other parts that have been sitting idle. Hopefully the car should be all buttoned up and running by the end of next weekend.










citymunky
(Fake Title)
01/20/13 09:42 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

I love your engine.

faqinshiet
(Member +)
01/20/13 09:45 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

looks amazing!!

5OF2k
(Member ++)
01/20/13 10:13 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Fantastic! Looks very very clean sir. Good work!

-Jake


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/20/13 11:10 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Car looks great man! I can't wait to take the time and do my motor that nice!

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
01/21/13 08:12 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

fingers crossed this time

GVR47111K
(slurpees, hot dogs and pickled eggs are still offered)
01/21/13 11:42 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Major props. One for the money, two for the show...

JamesFoster
(Infamous BMX Master)
02/01/13 07:01 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Looks awesome. I like your car, and attention to detail.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
02/02/13 02:06 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Fired up the motor for about 30 seconds and it ran great. After that, an audible knock started coming from the bottom end. I'm convinced this car is cursed. The motor is coming out for the third time. The military is moving me to Florida March 1st. I'm considering two options:

Cutting my loses and selling the car.

or

Pulling the motor on my donor Laser and throwing it in for the time being until I can sort out the problems with my current motor.

Either way I'm running out of time...


iceman69510
(Turn Right Racing)
02/02/13 12:53 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

That doesn't make sense and really sucks. Are you sure your lubrication system is all good? Oil pressure?

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
02/02/13 08:39 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Dammit im sorry to hear that brett. maybe you should have a shop build you a nice lil forged motor or something that way you wont have to worry about it.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
02/04/13 01:06 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Quoting iceman69510:

That doesn't make sense and really sucks. Are you sure your lubrication system is all good? Oil pressure?




I'm not sure what the cause is yet. I should have the motor out again soon to transplant the donor motor in. I'm interested to see what the issue is though.


Meanwhile, I pulled the motor out of my donor car click .



I only plan on using the short block. I'll pull my other motor and transfer pretty much everything over to this bottom end. This is just a temporary fix until I can figure out exactly why my other motor keeps eating parts. I tore it completely down, and cleaned everything up. Compression was 165 across the board before I pulled it, and the internals took good as new after a little cleaning. The block got a fresh coat of paint and is ready to be reassembled. I'll be leaving the balance shafts in for the time being, and am hoping the 3rd time is a charm. I guess we'll see.







strokin4dr
(fighting them with a large needle)
02/05/13 06:46 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Sorry to hear about the bad luck with motors lately. I've been watching this build and hoping for the best!

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
02/09/13 08:51 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

I pulled the motor on the Galant today and believe I solved my problem. From what I can tell, the motor was absolutely fine. I expected to find a spun rod or main bearing, but didn't. The bottom end, crankshaft and bearings looked pretty normal.





What I did find was one of my adjustable cam gears was loose. It's obvious it was moving around because there are small marks on the adjuster where it looked like the bolts slipped. The strange thing though is the gear was still lined up on zero when I pulled the motor. Like an idiot, it didn't cross my mind to double check they were tight before I ran the car for the first time. Additionally, the noise I was hearing sounded like a high pitch metallic sound clacking about twice per revolution. From everything I can tell, the cam gear was the issue, not the bottom end as I suspected. I had to check the head in case the valves slapped the pistons. Luckily the valves were good, and no damage occurred. Well, nothing bad except for the fact that I basically pulled the motor for a problem that could have been fixed in less than 5 minutes. I guess that's just my luck.

I'm still going to proceed with my original plan. I'm using the short block from my donor car, and transferring everything from the other motor over. I thought about putting my built motor back together, and dropping it back in, but I'm going to build it stronger and then swap it back in at a later time. My plans are to add:
-New block
-Kiggly girdle
-Eagle rods
-Eagle Crank
-Built head with oversize valves, port, polish etc.
-SMIM

In the mean time, I should have a Galant to drive instead of JSBallin out for the rest of my life. I should have the motor in and running by Monday hopefully, so we'll see if the third time is a charm.


GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
02/10/13 12:05 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Awesome, does this mean I'll be seeing you and the car at the FP lonestar shootout in May?

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
02/10/13 07:23 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Yeah Mike, I'm really hoping to make it to the Lonestar shootout and run the car there at the track!

I made a little progress today. I tore the bottom end down to make sure all my oil clearances were good, and surprisingly after 180k they were still just as tight as the tolerances in the new motor I just built were. I installed the head and torqued it down with another new composite Felpro head gasket. The ARP bolts and HKS cams were reused. All the new timing components and water pump from the other motor were transferred over. I timed the motor with the addition of a new Gates racing balance shaft belt to match the camshaft belt, since this motor will retain the balance shafts for now. It's been a minute since I did a motor with balance shafts, so I had to double check the timing procedure. Having worked on more motors without balance shafts than with them, it speaks volumes for how many people eliminate these. I personally have never had any issues with balance shafts, and hope the trend will continue. The Gates racing balance shaft belt should add a bit of security either way. I'm hoping to finish up assembly soon, and have the motor in by tomorrow night.



turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
02/10/13 07:30 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Whoa. A build with balance shafts. Haven't seen that in awhile.

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
02/10/13 09:47 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Hell yeah! i hope you make it buddy, I have a good feeling about that motor your about to put in there.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
02/10/13 10:41 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Quoting turbowop:

Whoa. A build with balance shafts. Haven't seen that in awhile.




Yeah, not really by choice but due to tight time constraints. I had a question about your car Wop. I noticed you mentioned a few times you eliminated your balance shafts but left the front one in. So basically, you left the front shaft in and eliminated the rear shaft with a stubby? Is there a benefit to this besides the obvious not having to install new bearings to block the oil holes, and having to plug the oil pump cover?


5OF2k
(Member ++)
02/10/13 11:12 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

TIGHTEN THE CAM GEAR ADJUSTMENT BOLTS!!!

....just giving you a little shit man. I have a feeling this one is going to get you back on the road!

Hang in there!!

-Jake


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
02/10/13 11:19 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Quoting GSTwithPSI:

Quoting turbowop:

Whoa. A build with balance shafts. Haven't seen that in awhile.




Yeah, not really by choice but due to tight time constraints. I had a question about your car Wop. I noticed you mentioned a few times you eliminated your balance shafts but left the front one in. So basically, you left the front shaft in and eliminated the rear shaft with a stubby? Is there a benefit to this besides the obvious not having to install new bearings to block the oil holes, and having to plug the oil pump cover?




Yup. Just makes it easier is all. I've never had the motor out of the car, so leaving the front shaft in was quick and easy. Both 1051 and 503 were done this way.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
02/10/13 11:31 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Quoting 5OF2k:

TIGHTEN THE CAM GEAR ADJUSTMENT BOLTS!!!

....just giving you a little shit man. I have a feeling this one is going to get you back on the road!

Hang in there!!

-Jake




Yeah man, I'm really hoping so.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
02/14/13 01:54 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Well, the third time is a charm. I dropped the motor in yesterday, and got it all buttoned up today. I have to say, with my current string of luck, I was crossing my fingers when I started it up for the first time. I hit the key and the motor fired right up.

I ran the car for about 3 minutes or so to check for oil leaks. Sure enough, I had a pretty heavy leak coming from the oil cooler line AN fittings right where they meet the OFH. I tried to tighten them up, but I guess the AN fittings have had it, because they were still leaking despite my attempts to fix them. The lines are -10 AN, and I couldn't source any fittings locally to replace the ones I have. As a result, I had to remove the B&M cooler, and am going to swap in the OEM cooler from my 90 GST donor car for the time being. The -10 AN lines were such a pain in the ass to manipulate because they are so rigid and stiff, that I'm switching to -8 AN when I replace them.

I also got my Innovate LC-1 wideband installed and calibrated. I fired up the car and set my V3 to log the wideband on the EGR input. It seems to be working good, and I'm excited to start playing with my tune a little bit now that I have something to go off of.

Besides my oil leak, the car seems to run great. It seems like the valve train is a little noisy. I'm not sure if it's because I didn't really run the car for long enough to get it up to temp, or if the head was just a little dry from sitting for so long? I'm wondering if the larger cams are contributing to this also? Do you guys running aftermarket cams notice a little extra valve train noise over stock? Anyways, here are a few pics of the finished product.




Here's where I relocated the coil pack to. The coil is easily accessible here, but also gives the engine bay a clean look.


I replaced the injector clips with the quick disconnect type, and tucked the harness around the fuel rail. This made for a great finish.



I built a custom bracket to keep my LC-1 all safe and sound. The bracket should also act as heat barrier as well.


Here are a few electrical tid bits. I fabricated the black cover, which holds a NRG Voltage Stabilizer E-PAC3, and a digital voltage readout. On the side is a custom grounding kit made of 8GA wire, each of which is attached to a trans mounting bolt. All of the wires spider back to the distribution block in the photo, which is then tied into the voltage stabilizer, battery ground, and chassis ground. Eventually, I'm going to run a 12GA wire straight from the charging post on the alternator to the positive battery terminal. The factory wire is too small IMO.


Zaklee Corp timing belt cover, Aeromotive FPR, Avid aluminum mounts, AEM tru-time cam gears, HKS 264/273 cams and a cyclone intake manifold.


Aluminum radiator, OEM Mitsu thermostat, Mishimoto upper and lower radiator hoses, dual Mishimoto 10" slim fans and shroud, OBX -6 AN fuel rail with new O-rings, Russell fuel filter, black top CAS and Innovate LC-1 wideband O2.


2G MAS, new K&N 4" filter, Dejon intake pipe


Out with the clock, in with the Innovate wideband and auto timer display.


A USDM smile.



I should have the oil cooler mounted up and installed tomorrow, and then when I'm satisfied there are no more oil leaks it's off for a test drive!


GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
02/14/13 04:13 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Sweet! Yeah having aftermarket cams won't cause more noise, probably just dry and needs oil to get up in the head and lifters. I hope everything goes well with the upcoming test drive, I bet your stoked!

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
02/16/13 04:43 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Moar woes, so I'll start with the good news. Got the OEM oil cooler installed from my donor car. It actually went pretty smooth and turned out great. No leaks, and mounted up like factory.




Now, on to the ass pain this car continues to be. The fuel pump was doing some weird things. I've since converted to an in-tank Walbro 255, from the external 255 setup I was originally using, and both pumps exhibited the exact same issue. I would start the car and the fuel pump would run as it should. After driving or even idling for a while, the pump would start to get really loud, and my fuel pressure would drop off slightly. If you shut the car off and killed the pump for even a split second, and restarted the car (and pump) it would be normal again. It would be fine again at first, and then repeat the same symptoms all over again after running for a few more minutes. I'll skip all the crap I suspected and cut to what the actual issue was. The fuel tank is still dirty inside. Not really dirty, but there is this magical brown poop that seems to reappear now matter how good I clean the tank. This sediment is moving around during driving and such, and clogging the little fuel pump pickup sock. I removed the sock and replaced it with a small screen, and my problem totally went away.

So here's the pump after I first removed it when I suspected this pickup sock was the problem. The brown sock below the pump has under 300 miles on it. I installed a new sock and dropped the pump back in.


After dropping the pump back in, I ran the car for 10 min and the same problem came back. I did everything I could think of, and couldn't resolve the issue. I finally said screw it, and pulled the pump again just for shits and gigs, and sure enough the brand new sock was clogged again.



The car is currently running with a screen on the pump inlet until I can come up with a a better solution. What really sucks is the options I have to fix this:
1. Buy a new used fuel tank that doesn't have the same problem. Impossible.
2. Pay $400 the get my current tank hot tanked, blasted, stripped and sealed inside. I was quoted that price locally from a reputable shop who specializes in such things.
3. Buy a fuel cell for what to costs to get my tank cleaned. I don't want a cell in my trunk, and really don't want an aftermarket fuel cell period.
4. Sell this POS car and let someone else worry about it.

After that ordeal, I did some boost leak tests. It would sure be great if something on this car wasn't totally fu*ked. I had a few leaks to say the least.



So I fixed all this crap and ran the car for a while to check for any leaks. No leaks. So, I drove it around town for a while, and still no leaks. So the wife and I drive to her parent's house about 15 miles away, and the car runs great all the way there. I'm ecstatic, because this is the first time in 3 months that I feel confident about the car. I pull away from a stop light about 3 blocks from our destination and mash the gas. The car pulls great all the way to redline through gears 1-3 at about 15 PSI. I start slowing down and come to a stop. The car is running like I unplugged an injector. I pop the hood when we get to our destination and screw with it a little, and say to hell with it guessing I blew a sparkplug out (I'm using an older set). The car sits for about 5 hours and we go out to leave. I start it up and it runs the same for about 5 min, and then seems to fix itself. I get about half way home and my check engine light comes on. my link V3 coolant temp alarm is activating the light, and my temps climb to about 260. I stop a few times to let it cool down and eventually limp it home. It ran fine the whole time, and seemed to be ok when I parked it. Looks like my lower radiator hose started leaking at the radiator somehow, and pissed out most of the coolant.

Like I said, woes. I'm getting really really tired of issues with this car. Honestly, it seems like there isn't one thing I haven't had to fix, replace or recondition on this car. Engine, suspension, electrical, fuel...I've done it all. I've had my fair share of DSM and car problems in general, but damn, this project is starting to kill me. I feel like I should have started with a better specimen. Couple that with the fact that I spend almost all my time working on it, and I have a wife who is about to divorce me over this JSBallin junker. I have always heard things get worse before they get better, but when the hell is the latter going to happen


G
(JDM Unit)
02/16/13 11:20 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

You can't just run a screen on the fuel pump. All the corrosion that is smaller than the screen will contaminate your fuel lines and clog your injectors. Causing the symptoms you described exactly. One injector intermittently working. Your going to have to hot tank or pickle the tank and then have it tinned. Search for companies in your area that do hot tinning.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
02/16/13 02:54 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Quoting G:

You can't just run a screen on the fuel pump. All the corrosion that is smaller than the screen will contaminate your fuel lines and clog your injectors. Causing the symptoms you described exactly. One injector intermittently working. Your going to have to hot tank or pickle the tank and then have it tinned. Search for companies in your area that do hot tinning.




No kidding captain obvious? Did you even read anything I wrote?

Quoting GSTwithPSI:

The car is currently running with a screen on the pump inlet until I can come up with a a better solution.... 2. Pay $400 the get my current tank hot tanked, blasted, stripped and sealed inside. I was quoted that price locally from a reputable shop who specializes in such things.





GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
02/16/13 03:47 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Well atleast it runs. Now you just have to work out all the bugs. I had the same problem last year with the whole it running like that from time to time. It ended up being my injectors. Dont give up yet, you've come a long ways already.

G
(JDM Unit)
02/16/13 09:47 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Well you made it seam like you had no idea why it was running like it had an unplugged injector. Also in the same post were upset at all the problems it's giving you.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
02/21/13 03:45 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

I Dropped the fuel tank today. Here's what the inside looked like:



I'm taking it to a local shop to get it reconditioned. They chemical strip the inside, hot tank it, do some other odds and ends and then seal it. I'm not too familiar with the process, but for $400 bucks I hope it looks like new when I get it back. For $400, I thought briefly of just buying a fuel cell, but decided this would be easier and faster given the time I have to get the car in running condition before I move.


GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
02/21/13 06:06 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Holy crap! I hope mine isn't like that, seeing this makes me wanna drop my tank and take a peek inside. It's a good thing you werent racing the car with it like that, that would be a bad day.

bobdole
(Old member with new to me VR4 and starting over. Respect your elders kids)
02/21/13 07:57 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

wow that is bad. I would recommand you check your's Mike. When I did mine it was very clean inside.

LIV4PSI
(dyslexic 1051 )
02/21/13 08:05 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

I can't believe your tank looks so good on the outside, but so incredibly horrible on the inside.

mcbride89
(Member)
02/21/13 09:16 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

I remember you tellin me about your bad luck when I was complaining about 125 :/ but damn I love your car. I think I might just hold onto my Cyclone

Very tasteful dude


idreamidrive
(Member +)
02/21/13 09:30 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

I know you are leaving San Diego soon, but if you ever want any help with your car I live in UTC.

Fiascoxl
(Member +)
02/21/13 11:21 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Mine looks like that too.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
02/22/13 12:29 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Thanks for the complements guys.


Quoting idreamidrive:

I know you are leaving San Diego soon, but if you ever want any help with your car I live in UTC.



I really appreciate the offer. Where in UTC exactly? I have a bunch parts I'm trying to get rid of before I leave. Do you need anything? PM me if you want.



Quoting LIV4PSI:

I can't believe your tank looks so good on the outside, but so incredibly horrible on the inside.




Well, from everything I can find, the car spent a lot of its life in Colorado. From 1990, to 2002 it was registered in Englewood (1996), Denver (1998) and Littleton (2002). After 2002, the car wasn't registered until I registered it here in California. Also, judging from some of the receipts and paperwork I got with the car, It spent a short time in Utah, then Nevada, and ended up in Northern California where I bought it. The car doesn't have any rust, which I would attribute to where it spent its life. Aside from the coat of spray paint I added, that's probably the reason the outside looks so good.

When I bought the car, it had been sitting outside for what looked like a long period of time. The guy I bought it from thought it had a bad fuel pump (among other things), and the entire pump assembly was removed from the tank. So, the car sat outside in the weather with a uncovered hole in the fuel tank for quite some time. To add to the problem, there was zero fuel in the tank. Water, dirt and whatever else made its way in and just sat there building up over time. I'd guess that's how the inside ended up looking like total crap.

I dropped the tank off at the shop today, and hope to have it back early next week. I'm really hoping for a good turnout. I'm just concerned about them being able to do a good job cleaning and sealing the inside of the tank. The tank has that sump where the pump sits, and divides the tank up pretty well. I'm sure there's a method they have to take care of things like this, but it seems like it would be impossible to get the crap out of all the little cracks and crevices inside. The shop is pretty reputable from the few local guys I've talked to, so I'll keep my fingers crossed.


strokin4dr
(fighting them with a large needle)
02/22/13 05:51 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

The tank in my old galant looked about like that. I bought a restoration kit and cleans and coats the inside for about $75. Took most of a Saturday to do but worked great. I even did the fuel sender too.
Luckily my new vr4's tank was absolutely spotless inside when I took a peek at the pump.

Mike, you don't have to drop the tank to check it's condition. Just pull the access panel in the truck and remove the sender.


GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
02/22/13 08:29 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

oh your right, i remember being able to peak inside there when i changed out my fuel sending unit in california, i'll take a look in there again one of these days.

G
(JDM Unit)
02/22/13 02:15 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

You have to have it pickled. Takes about a week of being submerged in a huge vat. While it's submerged they move it around in different positions so the chemicals can get in where the air pockets are and remove the rust. If you don't do it this way, hot tanking instead, all the corrosion may not be removed from all the crevices.

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
02/22/13 02:24 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

^^^Funny you say that. The guy called me this morning and said they would need the tank for a week. He basically said the same thing, just didn't call it pickling. He also said it was only going to cost around $275 instead of the $400 he originally quoted me . He said since the tank was in such good shape outside, it was going to be a lot less labor. They also recondition the outside of the tank as well, which is a plus.

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
02/22/13 02:43 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Score

strokin4dr
(fighting them with a large needle)
02/22/13 03:17 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Nice!
Post some good pics when you get it back.


ade
(Carbon Fiber Phallus Group Buy Member)
02/24/13 10:42 AM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Quoting GSTwithPSI:

^^^Funny you say that. The guy called me this morning and said they would need the tank for a week. He basically said the same thing, just didn't call it pickling. He also said it was only going to cost around $275 instead of the $400 he originally quoted me . He said since the tank was in such good shape outside, it was going to be a lot less labor. They also recondition the outside of the tank as well, which is a plus.




white vinegar @ $1.50 a gallon from a supermarket will strip all that crap off. fill up to the brim and change every other day for a week
use baking soda to balance the acidity and water to clean it out after dumping the vinegar, this will be messy if you didn't change the vin every other day btw.
por15 and a few other companies make tank liners which you have to apply right after, or the tank will flash rust. most i've seen for these are $70.

i have done this with nothing but success many a times, it costs less and yields the same results as any other treatment out there.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
02/28/13 11:23 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

I picked up my fuel tank from the shop today. It turned out great. The inside is squeaky clean, and free of all rust and debris. The shop sealed the tank using a product called Red-Kote. Overall, I'm very happy with the turnout.

Before:


After:



I re-installed the tank today, but decided to let it sit another 24 hours before I dump fuel into it, just to be safe. The guy at the shop said it only takes 24 hours to fully cure (which had already passed when I picked it up), but I was reading online that sometimes, the thicker coated areas need a little more time to dry.

I removed the fuel rail, injectors and fuel filter to inspect and make sure none of the parts were contaminated or clogged with debris. I also blew out all the fuel lines with compressed air. Hopefully now, the fuel system is all good, and I shouldn't have to deal with any fueling issues in the near future.


GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
03/01/13 01:57 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Very clean, you should be all set now man, is the car already in Florida or are you still in San Diego?

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
07/22/13 07:54 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Well, looks like the end of the road for 1813 and I. A local buyer came and bought the car today. I felt bittersweet as I watched the new owner drive it away. It's hard to let go of something you have put so much time and effort into. Hopefully the new owner picks up where I left off, and continues to improve the car where I failed to.

Even though 1813 is long gone, I'm far from being done with the Galant VR4 platform. 1813 was rough from the get-go, and proved to be a challenging car to build because of it. This time around, I have a better canvas to start with...


Steve885
(Member)
07/22/13 09:34 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Pics of the new one?..

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
10/20/13 03:24 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Here's the new one.






And a little before and after to finish up my chapter with 1813/2000.

Before:

After:



Before:

After:



Before:

After:




Good luck to rebelboost, the new owner of 1813/2000!


jogalant
(jobidet)
10/20/13 07:56 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

Sweet lookin' car man! Where'd you find it?

GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
04/03/15 10:05 PM
Re: GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813

I still talk to the new owner of 1813 every now and then. He doesn't post much about the car. He's done a bunch of stuff to it though...Built motor, FP red, injectors, etc.

Anyways...








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