Gtpdz
(Member)
06/18/16 11:09 AM
OEM style radiator performance

So... I'm finally trying to address the slightly high water temp, currently the water temp is between 203-215 when just cruising around the block with a 180 thermostat. I looked at the radiator the other day and believe it's a spectra 1" thick Full size radiator. So any one else who runs this radiator and have any thoughts on its performance?

Also looked at Koyo GVR4 style radiator, they seem to have a thicker core and bronze construction, will it be a better choice over the spectra? Thanks.


mitsuturbo
(Banthony )
06/21/16 03:14 PM
Re: OEM style radiator performance

What fan are you running?
I've found that fan selection is far more important than radiator performance. I've run single pass non turbo galant radiators in a pinch. I've run 1/2 size honda civic radiators, and now i'm on an afco. The common denominator for ALL of them to cool properly was the proper fan.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/21/16 03:55 PM
Re: OEM style radiator performance

^ + a million.

Gtpdz
(Member)
06/21/16 08:21 PM
Re: OEM style radiator performance

Quoting mitsuturbo:

What fan are you running?
I've found that fan selection is far more important than radiator performance. I've run single pass non turbo galant radiators in a pinch. I've run 1/2 size honda civic radiators, and now i'm on an afco. The common denominator for ALL of them to cool properly was the proper fan.




Right now running a pull slim fan and factory AC fan. No extra shroud on the slim one.


GSTwithPSI
(A hole)
06/21/16 08:50 PM
Re: OEM style radiator performance

What kind/brand of slim fan. I've found out the hard way not all slim fans are created equal.

Gtpdz
(Member)
06/21/16 09:17 PM
Re: OEM style radiator performance

It looks like a revcor 12 inch puller fan to me, also to clear the GT3076 turbo set up, PO slightly offset the fan so the edge sticks out a bit.







diambo4life
(Member)
06/22/16 07:50 AM
Re: OEM style radiator performance

Quoting mitsuturbo:

What fan are you running?
I've found that fan selection is far more important than radiator performance. I've run single pass non turbo galant radiators in a pinch. I've run 1/2 size honda civic radiators, and now i'm on an afco. The common denominator for ALL of them to cool properly was the proper fan.




100% true. Most slimline fans in my opinion are complete garbage. You need a real high output (read: big motor=not slim) fan or stick with the stock shrouded setup IF you can.


mitsuturbo
(Banthony )
06/22/16 10:19 AM
Re: OEM style radiator performance

Looks like you need a larger fan. I had a 11" maradyne on my afco, and temps were getting a little high.. approaching 220f and sometimes over. I went to a 13" high output maradyne and now even after multiple passes at the track when surface temps were in the 130s, i was only seeing a peak of 206F.

FlyingEagle
(Eager Beaver)
06/22/16 11:21 AM
Re: OEM style radiator performance

On an odd side note, I am experimenting with a slimline inside a factory shroud for my C53A. The shroud is metal like most turbo variant shrouds, versus the black plastic.
I had a spare that was a little rusty to work with. The aftermarket fan fits in directly, with only minor enlargement of the attachment holes in the shroud (x3), and a setup of deflective/aero type foam to seal the two units together so air is pulled in only through the fan assembly. I don't think this is the best option, but I have three slimline fans I posted about earlier that I get to play around with.
My Galant VR4 aluminum aftermarket radiator needs some cross member finagling because the welds for the four tabs, end up pushing the radiator body and subsequently the rad cap, likely right up into my hood.
So, there's a little fitment issue for my platform using the GVR4 50mm core setup from Ebay.
I have to drop my rad mounts and likely clearance my north/south cross member. So, stock type wide Colt rad and fans was my quick go to when I get this thing running again. It used to be a major pain to pull the radiator before, but with persistent work and redesign of my existing piping, I am hoping to speed up that process.
Some good info in this thread here.

IF you have room, consider the high end fans - with real published numbers. I have yet to comment on my thin wired/aftermarket fans, because they haven't so much as been spun up since I received them.

Oh, and I second the motion, that if you can't fit a 2/3 shroud (which is ideal for so many reasons), then get a fan that goes top to bottom, with genuine, high CFM count.


Gtpdz
(Member)
06/22/16 01:47 PM
Re: OEM style radiator performance

Right on... so today the koyo radiator shows up, and it's exact 1/4 thicker than the aluminium straight core... so I remounted the old fan on and took it out for a spin, 81F out side today and water temp stays pretty much the same as before. 203-206 during cruise and gets up to 213-215 during hard acceleration, which was pretty much the same with the old one.

So the question is, does fan set up affects water temp while the car is moving as well? Consider there should be air flow when it's in motion... I do have a bumper opening size FMIC up front though, so it should take into account of impeding air flow right?

One thing about the water temp reading though, I do notice that as soon as the engine is switched off the water temp goes to 195, shouldn't it falls off gradually? I wonder how's anyone else's water temp reading behaves when engine is shut off?


MellowVR4
(5" too short)
06/22/16 02:08 PM
Re: OEM style radiator performance

Yes a good fan is needed to make those temps go down, I have two fans on mine and one doesn't work too well but my temps still stay at 200 or less with the 180 stat. Sometimes it doesn't even go past 195

thomcasey
(I ain't no puny human)
06/22/16 02:53 PM
Re: OEM style radiator performance

Once you are moving, steadily over 30 MPH, the fan is actually not helping. It is designed to work at low speeds, below 30mph, unless you have an airflow restriction to the radiator. My galant, with an O'Reilly's Single core stock radiator with a factory fan, Temps @ 90, coolant temps stay @ 195 in Link, 180 or less coming out of the radiator. There is no AC condenser in front of the radiator, no AC fan. I do have a small FMIC installed low in the bumper but airflow through the grill is unimpeded.

diambo4life
(Member)
07/02/16 11:47 AM
Re: OEM style radiator performance

95 degree day; Make a 40psi+ pull in 3rd and tempts don't go over 206degF. Very happy.

Gtpdz
(Member)
07/02/16 05:04 PM
Re: OEM style radiator performance

An update on this... so I got the Koyo brass radiator (this thing is heavy compare to the aluminum one)in with the slim fan from the last radiator. The fan is around 13 inch actually so I guess theres no way I can fit a even larger one in. Also changed the coolant mix to 30/70. Now cruising temp stays around 199-203 and WOT temp stays around 210... so I take that as progress hahaha.

Next time would be looking at the water pump then, as that's one thing I never took apart since I got the car.

Block was tested and no sign of exhaust leak into the coolant.


gvr4ever
(Forever Member)
07/02/16 05:42 PM
Re: OEM style radiator performance

I didn't think coolant should be mixed over 65% for extreme cold. At some point, it actually stops working correctly. For summer temps, 50/50 should work.

FlyingEagle
(Eager Beaver)
07/03/16 11:19 AM
Re: OEM style radiator performance

You would be overheating if the water pump was missing fingers or worn out in some fashion; ie leaks. WP replacement also equals timing belt job.

No need to overmix the coolant as the poster above me, was saying.


jrtech
(Junior Member)
07/03/16 04:53 PM
Re: OEM style radiator performance

Quoting Gtpdz:

An update on this... so I got the Koyo brass radiator ...





Please tell me where you purchased the Koyo brass?


Gtpdz
(Member)
07/03/16 05:43 PM
Re: OEM style radiator performance

That was from Amazon, sold by Koyo. Shipped to my door in 2 days. And it's a direct factory replacement.

jrtech
(Junior Member)
07/03/16 06:12 PM
Re: OEM style radiator performance

Thanks!

DSSA
(Old-Head)
07/22/16 07:46 PM
Re: OEM style radiator performance

As someone noted earlier--a fan doesn't do jack if you're moving down the road above 10-15 mph. At that point, the only thing that they can do is block airflow, and if you could have them suddenly disappear, you'd have more cooling than with them being there.

I've ran a single, basic slimline fan on a cheap Jeg's Scirocco, single-pass radiator behind an old APEXi Skyline II core in 95 degree heat sitting in Philly traffic with no cooling issues (no A/C in the car is important to note in this situation--I roasted, but the car was fine).

It's one of those things that you have to play around with as no one solution is going to fix everyone's over-heating issue.

I've seen issues caused by cheap, cast-impeller water pumps not flowing enough, I've seen obvious issues like flow to the radiator diminished by a intercooler that didn't like to allow much air through the core, I've seen thermostats fail...the list goes on.

The one thing I wanted to point out is that a lot of people think that adding a higher percentage of anti-freeze/coolant, or simply dumping something like Water Wetter, etc., will help--when it actually will promote cooling issues. Water is your best coolant. The anti-freeze/coolant is there to provide what first name implies (freezing resistance), lubricity, and an anti-corrosion package. It doesn't cool the car better.

Water Wetter, and other additives---same thing. The improvement isn't from the additive itself, but comes into play when you're able to have 90% water, and the additive provides enough lubricity and anti-corrosion properties at that ratio.


FlyingEagle
(Eager Beaver)
07/25/16 12:18 PM
Re: OEM style radiator performance

Have an update to the GVR4 aftermarket aluminum radiator offered on Ebay, with a 50+mm core. The mounting pins sit in a slightly taller position because of the fact that the welds create a height change where the brackets would other sit down flush. The weld material made the rad sit higher and the bracket now sits double that dimension in a semi compressed position. Also, in my C53A chassis, it hits the rad support if using the factory brackets with no modification. The pin location front to back on the core, is a major part of this phenomenon, not just the extra girth of the core/depth change.
The lower coolant switch fitting is an M14/1x25 which is not the size to fit the factory coolant temp switch, that should be M16x1.5 - I was able to file down the threads, then re-tap with a proper tap. There is no imperial drill bit on most hardware chain store shelves (Lowes/Home Depot/Canadian Tire) that won't leave you a hole too big or out of the range of most 3/8" drills can take (smaller diameter shank). I vacuumed out the fitting and then turned the vacuum into a blower and set it into the top rad fitting to get any extra particles out. I suspect nothing went very far anyways and the rad is brand new, so nothing to stick to. I did use tap/cutting fluid and took my time with small turns and reversals in proper succession. Worked a charm, especially after I put a little chamfer at the top of the threaded hole for the O-ring to sit into properly. I didn't want to see that get cut, as part of a design flaw to my newly tapped hole.
The top and bottom tabs that would hold factory type fans, are or do stick out further, so a factory shroud from my C53a (which turned out not to fit due to clearance) sat further out from the core when it was otherwise nearly flush on a proper C53A core rad. Nearly every dimension changed as a result of being a Chinese copy. I emailed the ebay seller and the confirmed the fitting size and said if I had anymore questions, that I should contact them. I went to work on the rad mods....

All of the extra height pushed the rad cap upwards The cap which is the deeper style of the two Japanese styles available - be warned your factory DSM/Galant/CSM rad cap will not work (0.9bar) due to the depth of the fitting, but they supply you with a 1.1 bar cap that does work. Time will tell how well the cap works!
I had to use a second hood and remove a chunk of webbing to clear the top neck and rad cap as a result. This may have no bearing on a rad put into a Galant, but it the whole radiator sits higher and the cap sits higher, you have been forwarned that lower mounts and or top mounts may need fiddling ... bolt on ... sort of.


KiNgMaRtY
(Member +++)
07/27/16 10:48 AM
Re: OEM style radiator performance

Not all fans are created equal and the fan may be your problem. It looks like we have a similar turbo setup as you do, I have an FP DSM76 and it fit perfectly fine with the Koyo Evo 3 Aluminum Radiator. (For fitment purposes) I have the newer HH series that replaced the old R series that were much thicker but is suppose to be just as efficient. I am using a Shrouded 12" Mishimoto Raceline Fan that flows 1850 CFM. I have the fan controlled by ECMlink to turn on earlier than from the factory switch. I am using an OEM 180 thermostat and a mix of 70% water / 30% Coolant with a 1.3 radiator cap. I need to get a blanket for my FP manifold still but on my last canyon run the car maintained 180-195 temps.
I have had the basic Mishimoto Slim fans in the past and they are crap. The regular Flex-A-Lite (FAL) fans are definately a step up. Right before this fan I had the F-A-L Shrouded Fan and it flowed 1250 CFM. web page It is an awesome fan and I still have it sitting in my garage. I had no issues with it and it almost appears that it was underrated. It flows so much air. I went with the M Raceline because I wanted to try the newer bigger fan when they came out.



Contact Us | Privacy statement GalantVR-4.org

Generated in 0.004 seconds in which 0.002 seconds were spent on a total of 4 queries. Turbo powered.


Hertz's Galant VR-4 Page