spoulson
(0 people like this)
03/15/03 08:34 PM
Running wires for stereo install

I'm getting ready to do a stereo install on my GVR4 and I'm running some of the wiring before the equipment comes in. I want to see what you all had to say about my situation. I tried searching but nothing came up.

First, I am running a single 8ga power wire from the battery to the trunk. I located the grommet for the wiring harness on the firewall but it's too tight to slip the wire through. I even tried some silicone lubricant. I cannot see the grommet from the inside because of the AC/vent parts are in the way, so I couldn't poke it through from there. So what's a decent way to get this wire through?

Second, I want to run 10ga speaker wire into the doors so I can run decent power without risking loss of SQ or, worse, overheated wires. I would rather not drill anything. So, what's a good way to run these wires in there?


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
03/15/03 08:41 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

Pull off the passenger front tire and the plastic inner fender lining that goes up over the tire. Behind it on the firewall is a huge plug that you can poke a crapload of wires through. It comes out right behind the glovebox on the inside of the car. In the fenderwell you can ty-wrap the power wire right to the abs sensor wire that goes through there and into the engine bay. It comes out right behind the battery. When its all done this way it looks very clean.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/15/03 09:04 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

I did the same thing turbowop described for my battery relocation, PITA in my situation, If you have the time, It looks very clean, You may find a way to do it quicker than I, I think It had something to do with 2 gauge wire going back through the grommet near the ecu, haha

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/15/03 09:13 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

well first off you are gonna lose sound quality by using 8 gauge power wire. Go at least 4 gauge to eliminate clipping and any overheating of the amp due to lack of current.

i had it easy for my amp install bc my battery is relocated to the trunk. but running my 0 gauge through the car was interesting.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/15/03 09:28 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

quote:
Originally posted by Hibrn8:
well first off you are gonna lose sound quality by using 8 gauge power wire. Go at least 4 gauge to eliminate clipping and any overheating of the amp due to lack of current.

i had it easy for my amp install bc my battery is relocated to the trunk. but running my 0 gauge through the car was interesting.

wow bet it was very interesting. My fuel pump rewire was very easy due to the battery in the trunk.

spoulson
(0 people like this)
03/15/03 09:48 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

Excellent. I'll give the power wire trick a try Sunday.

So does anyone have ideas on the speaker wires to the doors?

Hibrn8:
How can you say 8ga isn't good enough when you don't know what amp I'm running? It's a PPI PC450, a good 5+ years old model, 50Wx4 RMS. I don't recall the numbers but I did the math according to the manual and 8ga is perfect for the amp. It'll be running front/rear speakers only. I do have a second amp that I will be installing at a later date to run a 10" sub, but obviously I'll need 2x 8ga or 4ga to do that.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/15/03 09:55 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

bigger wire = more voltage = more power = better sound . Bigger is always better. From my experience I realized that statement to be true. I used 8g wire for the longest time, then upgraded to 2g and noticed a world of difference, If you're going to do it, do it right or dont do it at all.

The doors, hm, follow your oem wires and see where they go, try and do the same. 10g would be perfect for door speakers, good size for good volts.


spoulson
(0 people like this)
03/15/03 10:08 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

quote:
Originally posted by gvr4in:
bigger wire = more voltage = more power = better sound . Bigger is always better. From my experience I realized that statement to be true. I used 8g wire for the longest time, then upgraded to 2g and noticed a world of difference, If you're going to do it, do it right or dont do it at all.

Ok, now that you got me thinking... I pulled out the PPI manual. Here's the formulas they use:

Total RMS x 2 = Total input wattage (assumes 50% amp efficiency)

Total Input Wattage / Supply Wattage = Current Draw (in Amps)

Since the amp in question is a Powerclass 450, its wattage RMS is 200W.

200W x 2 = 400W total input

400W / 12V = 33.3Amp current draw

Then they list a chart of power wire in gauge versus run length versus current draw.

According to their chart 13-16ft with current draw of 20-35Amp reccommends 6ga. Hmm. Touche.


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
03/15/03 10:16 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

quote:
Originally posted by gvr4in:
I did the same thing turbowop described for my battery relocation, PITA in my situation, If you have the time, It looks very clean, You may find a way to do it quicker than I, I think It had something to do with 2 gauge wire going back through the grommet near the ecu, haha

I also ran 2awg wire for my battery relocation. Behind the glove box was a *little* difficult to get at the wire but not too bad. I used a 100amp circuit breaker as a fuse.

BTW, like previously mentioned....with the battery in the trunk wiring the amp and fuel pump is hella easy. And FWIW, I use 4awg for my amp.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/16/03 01:08 AM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

ok since you are runnign th power wire all the way from teh front of the car you have about a 12-15 ft span of wire running through the car. you are only talking about 12-14 volts of generated power bring run through that long wire.

as a matter of fact i run all my amps from Directed Electronics makers of Precision Power(PPI). I know right off the bat you will need 4 ga. to get the true quality out of the amp. Its just how it is, you can have the best equipment but it will not perform the best without the right cable and wiring. Im just trying to help you out so it doesnt end up lower than your expectations. Obviously since you are putting a 4 channel amp in your car it sounds to mean that you want cleaner sq and more volume, so i would jsut do it right the first time and deal with less stress later. from what i know, 4 ga wire is only an extra 1-1.50 a foot over 8 ga. As a matter of fact when i was studying the monster cable product, 4ga. wire actually had 5 times more strands of copper wire than the 8ga = more current flow due to more surface area of wire.

sorry for the long post but it may help you.


number3
(Senior Member)
03/16/03 01:07 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

You should be fine with 8 gauge if you stick to just that amplifier. What is the fuse size ofd the amp and I can let you know for sure.

10 gauge is very heavy speaker wire for a car. 16-14 gauge is plenty.

Harry


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/16/03 02:45 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

quote:
Originally posted by spoulson:
quote:
Originally posted by gvr4in:
bigger wire = more voltage = more power = better sound . Bigger is always better. From my experience I realized that statement to be true. I used 8g wire for the longest time, then upgraded to 2g and noticed a world of difference, If you're going to do it, do it right or dont do it at all.

Ok, now that you got me thinking... I pulled out the PPI manual. Here's the formulas they use:

Total RMS x 2 = Total input wattage (assumes 50% amp efficiency)

Total Input Wattage / Supply Wattage = Current Draw (in Amps)

Since the amp in question is a Powerclass 450, its wattage RMS is 200W.

200W x 2 = 400W total input

400W / 12V = 33.3Amp current draw

Then they list a chart of power wire in gauge versus run length versus current draw.

According to their chart 13-16ft with current draw of 20-35Amp reccommends 6ga. Hmm. Touche.

Lol. I wasn't tryin to start a war or anything but ok. This is what you first said:

Hibrn8:
How can you say 8ga isn't good enough when you don't know what amp I'm running? It's a PPI PC450, a good 5+ years old model, 50Wx4 RMS. I don't recall the numbers but I did the math according to the manual and 8ga is perfect for the amp. It'll be running front/rear speakers only. I do have a second amp that I will be installing at a later date to run a 10" sub, but obviously I'll need 2x 8ga or 4ga to do that.

Now you say they recommend 6ga. wire, Like hibrn8 and I have been saying, just do it right, go 4ga. and you'll be loving the benefits later. Even if 6ga. is 'recommended', going a bigger wire( 4,2 ga. ) Can't hurt anything, It'll just give you a better voltage flow rate because of the SA of the wire. The more current the flow of your battery voltage, the more constant power your amp is getting. If you're going to be running a single or dual subs later down the line, you'll def. want bigger than 6ga. wire, so why not do it now for an extra say $10? Im not tryin to bash or anything, We're all just tryin to help, and most everyone who is posting in this thread has experience with running bigger ga. wire through their cars and has loved the benefits.


spoulson
(0 people like this)
03/16/03 05:58 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

quote:
Originally posted by gvr4in:
Now you say they recommend 6ga. wire, Like hibrn8 and I have been saying, just do it right, go 4ga. and you'll be loving the benefits later. Even if 6ga. is 'recommended', going a bigger wire( 4,2 ga. ) Can't hurt anything, It'll just give you a better voltage flow rate because of the SA of the wire. The more current the flow of your battery voltage, the more constant power your amp is getting. If you're going to be running a single or dual subs later down the line, you'll def. want bigger than 6ga. wire, so why not do it now for an extra say $10? Im not tryin to bash or anything, We're all just tryin to help, and most everyone who is posting in this thread has experience with running bigger ga. wire through their cars and has loved the benefits.

Sorry if I wasn't clear, but I discovered my mistake in the calculations as I typed them. But um, I guess touche was the wrong word to use, as I was being sarcastic.

I stopped at Tweeter today for a 4ga wiring kit.


Scott Y
(mighty skunk hunter)
03/16/03 08:19 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

For the door wires, I used a coat hanger and ran the wires through the stock rubber conduit between the frame and the door. It took me a long time, but I was patient and I was able to get the wires through. I guided the wire from the door into the car, as there was more room to wiggle the wire around to make it bend through the rubber. There's probably something better to use than a wire coat hanger, something a little more flexible. I had to be very careful not to poke a hole in the rubber. Patience is the key.
I kept all of the stock wiring in place, so I just ziptied the new wire to the original wire, so I can go back to stock if need be.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/16/03 08:51 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

quote:
Sorry if I wasn't clear, but I discovered my mistake in the calculations as I typed them. But um, I guess touche was the wrong word to use, as I was being sarcastic.

I stopped at Tweeter today for a 4ga wiring kit.

hehe touche. Tweeter's a good store, good choice on the kit

number3
(Senior Member)
03/16/03 09:49 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

quote:
Originally posted by gvr4in:
quote:

I stopped at Tweeter today for a 4ga wiring kit.

Tweeter's a good store, good choice on the kit
I wouldn't go that far... [Wink]

number3
(Senior Member)
03/16/03 10:05 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

Jsut to drive the point home bigger doesn't always mean better. Most car amplifiers have regulated power supplies. Some do not.

BTW I sell boatloads (pun intended) of upgrade wire.

Harry


spoulson
(0 people like this)
03/16/03 10:42 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

quote:
Originally posted by number3:
Jsut to drive the point home bigger doesn't always mean better. Most car amplifiers have regulated power supplies. Some do not.

What's the difference?

quote:
BTW I sell boatloads (pun intended) of upgrade wire.
By all means, plug your service! [Smile] What exactly are you in the business of?

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/16/03 11:57 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

yeah i have spools of this shit just chillin will be avail. soon to anyone via the website in my signature below.

good move spoulson!

as far as getting a coat hanger through the ruber grommets for the speaker wire, all i can say is DAMN! I commend you on your patience for that. i probably would have kicked the door off the car in frustration.


Gabor
(Decal Specialist!)
03/17/03 10:17 AM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

I use DIY cat5 in my home setup. I just wish there was enough room to run that to my door speakers in the car.
No flames please but yes, good wires make a huge different in sound quality. Even in the car.


Gabor
692/1000


JonGalant VR4.org Administrator
(Administrator)
03/17/03 12:02 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

quote:
Originally posted by spoulson:
quote:
Originally posted by number3:
Jsut to drive the point home bigger doesn't always mean better. Most car amplifiers have regulated power supplies. Some do not.

What's the difference?

An unregulated power supply will fluctuate power (wattage) with the voltage input. Typically, these are in your higher end amplifiers. For instance, an amp will be rated at 50 watts a channel at 12 volts. At 14 volts, it could be more like 60 watts.

With a regulated power supply, the power is regulated to be 50 watts regardless of the voltage input. These are in your cheaper amps or even in the the cheaper line of amps. Kenwood and Sony both use regulated power supplies. God I'm rusty but I think I remember that if the voltage drops (like 11 volts instead of 14), then the amperage the amplifier draws increases thus increasing the work the amplier does and the increase likelyhood that you'll blow a fuse.


number3
(Senior Member)
03/17/03 12:35 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

quote:
BTW I sell boatloads (pun intended) of upgrade wire.
I work for Hifi House in Broomall, PA. Tweeter would like to think we are a competitor. I was hinting on their silly ad compaign "Boatload of know how".

spoulson
(0 people like this)
03/17/03 12:53 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

quote:
Originally posted by number3:
I work for Hifi House in Broomall, PA. Tweeter would like to think we are a competitor. I was hinting on their silly ad compaign "Boatload of know how".

So that's where you work. My gf works across the street at Brother's Electric. I'll have to stop in one day to say hi.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/17/03 11:39 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

Tweeters company doesnt even phase the one im at, their prices get stomped on.

spoulson
(0 people like this)
03/18/03 12:35 AM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

Ok, I got all the necessary pre-outs, 4ga power, and ground connections all ready in the trunk.

I was test fitting my two amps and they seem to be able to fit on the back of the rear seat. But that panel seems pretty flimsy as it is just some kind of cardboard and behind it is padding from the rear seat.

How has anyone else mounted the amps? I have a sheet of 1/2" MDF here but I don't really want to use it unless I have to because it's damn heavy. I'd prefer not to mount it on the trunk floor because I'd still like to have storage. I also hate drilling so I'd like to use factory holes if possible. Any ideas?


number3
(Senior Member)
03/18/03 08:47 AM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

quote:
Originally posted by spoulson:
quote:
Originally posted by number3:
I work for Hifi House in Broomall, PA. Tweeter would like to think we are a competitor. I was hinting on their silly ad compaign "Boatload of know how".

So that's where you work. My gf works across the street at Brother's Electric. I'll have to stop in one day to say hi.
Do you still want me to ship the SSSS to you then? You could always pick it up... [Smile]

number3
(Senior Member)
03/18/03 08:50 AM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

quote:
Originally posted by spoulson:
Ok, I got all the necessary pre-outs, 4ga power, and ground connections all ready in the trunk.

I was test fitting my two amps and they seem to be able to fit on the back of the rear seat. But that panel seems pretty flimsy as it is just some kind of cardboard and behind it is padding from the rear seat.

How has anyone else mounted the amps? I have a sheet of 1/2" MDF here but I don't really want to use it unless I have to because it's damn heavy. I'd prefer not to mount it on the trunk floor because I'd still like to have storage. I also hate drilling so I'd like to use factory holes if possible. Any ideas?

Mount them to the board. It does two things. The first and most important is that it help isolate them from the chassis ground (screws through the amplifiers metal mounting points to the metal body of the car can cause ground loops) second it is much neater and more secure.

Harry


spoulson
(0 people like this)
03/26/03 08:23 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

Ok, so I've made some progress since the last post of this thread, but I'm not done yet.

I ended up buying a 4x2 of 1/4" hardboard, cutting it to size of the back-of-rear-seat cardboard, then securing it with 1/4" bolts through the snap holes. Voila, secure fit for both amps, no drilling. I'm happy.

So now onto the front stuff. I have two main questions:

1) How the hell can anyone fish a wire thru the door boot? I can't get at it on either end. I can't even see the wires coming through on the inboard end.

2) My front speakers are components. I decided to mount the woofer in the door and the tweeter in the dash speaker location. I cut hardboard adapter plates for both and they fit. So now I need to find a place for the passive crossover. It's not too big, maybe 4"x2"x1" at most. There doesn't seem to be a plainly obvious place to put it so I'd like to know where others have put theirs. Again, no drilling is a plus. [Smile]


Scott Y
(mighty skunk hunter)
03/26/03 09:05 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

I mounted my tweeters in the dash using plexiglass, and I cut the door mounts to fit 6.5" drivers. I ran the wires through the door harness, and it was no fun at all. I used a wire coat hanger, and I poked through from the door into the car. It took a loooooooong time and I had to have some beers and a ton of patience, but I was able to run the wires through. On the drivers' side I mounted the crossover on the bottom of the plastic vent tube (you'll know which one I'm talking about), and on the passenger side I used velcro with super-sticky tape and stuck it on the inside of the dash, beside the glovebox.
It took a long time to install the speakers, but I wanted it to look completely stock, and I'm pleased with the results.


Scott Y
(mighty skunk hunter)
03/27/03 07:57 AM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

Sorrry, I didn't mean to double-post in this thread - suffering work induced brain fade.

spoulson
(0 people like this)
04/01/03 09:05 AM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

Well it looks like I'm about done with the install. The system is running and sounds great. I will just have to tweak the gain/crossover settings over time, but it's pretty good now.

Incase you haven't seen, I have a picture of the amp rack here. I probably should've taken pictures of the adapter plates I fabricated for _every_ speaker. They're not beautiful, but they all fit well.

I did not run speaker wire into the door. I felt that was too much work and I'm anxious to get the car back on the road. Instead, I used the factory speaker wire starting at the stereo harness. It was a compomise. The factory wire looks about 18ga, but it looks like each speaker only gets about 4' of this, and the rest is 16ga wire that I ran. This also gave me some room to put the crossovers. I zip-tied all the wires into groups and then put the crossover boxes in the very front of the console, just right of the accelerator pedal.

For a day I thought I somehow toasted the head unit, but it was really a dead battery. For some reason Alpine CDA-7995 head units emit lots of interference to the subwoofer when it's running at a low voltage (9V), perhaps too low for the processor to fully process the audio. Then it promptly turns off. A new battery put it back in action.


HertzGalant VR4.org Administrator
(OneTitle to rule them all.)
04/01/03 02:24 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

You blocked your rear seat pass through -- where are you going to put your skis?

spoulson
(0 people like this)
04/01/03 02:57 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

Sorry, I left out a small detail. I have a condition of patella subluxation in my left knee. I couldn't ski even if I wanted to for fear of tearing more tissue in my joint. [Frown] A sled will fit just fine in the trunk. [Big Grin]

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
08/07/03 05:28 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

Sorry to resurrect this post; I found it while searching for details on running battery cables to the trunk. I'm running 0 gauge, and a few posters on this thread are as well, but didn't really say how you got this huge mofo through the firewall. I had a 10 gauge wire for the fuel pump going through the ECU's wiring harness grommeted hole, but that is WAY too tight for 0 gauge. I found a plug down by where the charcoal canister is, and tried shoving it through, but it stopped and I couldn't find the end of it, plus I didn't see any other holes up under the glovebox.

I'm sure the solution is there, but after a few days in the garage on only a few hours sleep it all starts to look the same. [Wink]


number3
(Senior Member)
08/07/03 06:04 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

Mine runs under the car but mine is not a daily driver anymore.

Harry


HertzGalant VR4.org Administrator
(OneTitle to rule them all.)
08/07/03 07:48 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

Hmm.. trying to remember... YMMV

Dig around on the passenger side foot well, right at the door frame, under carpet area... there's a covered hole (fairly decent size) that passes through the frame, momentarily in the spot where all the tree debris gathers -- from there you can pass through to underneath the wheelwell (remove the plastic lining to see) and then there is another access panel that takes you to approximately the stock fuse box (under).


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
08/08/03 12:13 AM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

Take off the inner fender lining on the front passenger wheelwell and you will find a rather large plug in the firewall. Go thru there. You will come out right behind the glovebox. There is a more detailed explanation somewhere in the mess of threads on this site.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
08/08/03 09:05 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

Cool. Yea, I'd seen that thread about the fenderwell, but didn't like the idea of the wire going "outside" the car. I did end up using that hole in the fenderwell; just drilled a hole in the middle of the plug to pass the wire through. I didn't want it go all the way across the fenderwell though, so I had it come up & out the unused 4th hole in the strut tower. Much easier and simpler IMHO. Thanks for all your help guys!

HertzGalant VR4.org Administrator
(OneTitle to rule them all.)
08/09/03 12:47 AM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

Jon, that almost sounds worse -- think it would be prone to a lot of vibration there, good chance of grounding out!

Be very careful passing wire through anything metal -- got to have grommets or some type of protection there. I'm sure we can dig up some Galant-on-fire photos from the archives if you're interested... [Wink]


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
08/09/03 02:09 AM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

I know, don't think that hasn't occurred to me. I did enlarge the hole with the dremel, and used that foam rubber stuff that covers the stock vacuum lines for insulation. I may go back in there and do something else, I dunno, enlarge the hole some more to put a real grommet in there.

Why would the vibration be worse there? It's only like 14 inches from the other hole where other people routed theirs, and it's the same piece of metal.


number3
(Senior Member)
08/09/03 06:00 AM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

Use a rubber/plastic grommet that fits in the hole your cut to protect the wire. A fuse no farther than 18" from the battery is a MUST!

Harry


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
08/10/03 06:50 AM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

Thanks Harry. Yes, I need a fuse ASAP... when fumbling w/the ground wire, I accidently brushed the hot wire... holy crap. Sooo, what strength fuse would you recommmend? What about a circuit breaker instead? And why the 18" from the battery?

number3
(Senior Member)
08/10/03 07:27 AM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

The current draw of your system will determine the fuse size. If you are powering a single amplifier a 30 amp fuse or break should be plenty. Look at the fuse on the power supply (of the amp) and just make sure is is at least that big.

18" or closer to the battery is a car audio standard. The closer the better.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
08/10/03 07:59 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

Thanks, but I'm not running an amp. Not really into car audio. I thought you were referring to a fuse somewhere between the battery (trunk) and the positive connections in the engine bay. What sort of fuse would one use in that scenario? Maybe 95-100 amp, that area, as our cars have 90 amp alternators?

HertzGalant VR4.org Administrator
(OneTitle to rule them all.)
08/11/03 08:28 AM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

For the battery relocation, you really should find a circuit breaker, mount it less than 18" from the battery. You really don't want a short/fire anywhere outside of your engine bay.

steveGalant VR4.org Administrator
(Assmilk Pearl)
11/18/03 12:30 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

quote:
Originally posted by turbowop:
Pull off the passenger front tire and the plastic inner fender lining that goes up over the tire. Behind it on the firewall is a huge plug that you can poke a crapload of wires through. It comes out right behind the glovebox on the inside of the car. In the fenderwell you can ty-wrap the power wire right to the abs sensor wire that goes through there and into the engine bay. It comes out right behind the battery. When its all done this way it looks very clean.

THANK YOU search feature, and turbowop... I'm reviving this thread to say I can also vouch for this method, I just spent my lunch hour pulling the wheel off and splashguard off, and running my 4gauge from the battery to the trunk.  -

iceman69510
(Turn Right Racing)
11/18/03 03:42 PM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

Followed that exact same advice when I did my cable and it worked excellent. That was the easiest part of running the cable. The seat mount bracket was much harder to negotiate around.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
11/19/03 01:42 AM
Re: Running wires for stereo install

I just mounted an electronic boost gauge, and went thru the DRIVERS fenderwell with the grommet for the hood latch cable. I just drilled a hole right next to it with the old dewalt, snapped a grommet in, and viola, right next to the fuse box. I was fishing around on the passenger side, and was trying to get a fish tape thru the plugged hole in the frame rail that's right under the CAS (but on the body, you guys know where I am talking about) I'm trying to run 2/0 welders cable back to the trunk. Saw the grommet with all the engine wires, but honestly that's a pretty damned big wire bundle. I was trying to find a way to run from the inner frame rail thru the body to the rocker panel, then fishing the wire down the rocker panel on the pass side, coming back up into the interior right were the pass rear dogleg molding is, and from there into the trunk. However, I can't get the fishtape thru from the engine compartment all the way under the frame rail to hop across to the rocker panel. Any ideas?


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